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SKETCH 

OF THE 

PRESENT STATE OF THE ISLAND 

OF 

SARDINIA. 

BY 

V 

Captain WILLIAM HENRY SMYTH, r.n., k.s.f. 

F.R.S., F.S. A., 
AND MEMBER OF THE ASTRONOMICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON. 




LONDON: 

JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE-STREET. 

MDCCCXXVIII. 

5 



LONDON: 
Printed by William Clowes, 
Stamford-street. 



TO 

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE 

ROBERT SAUNDERS DUNDAS, 

VISCOUNT MELVILLE, BARON DUNIRA, K.T., 
$0. %c. $c. 



My Lord, 

The kind condescension with which your 
Lordship was pleased to approve of my endeavour to 
describe the classical Island of Sicily, encourages me to 
solicit the additional honour of submitting the accom- 
panying sketch of a widely different, though adjacent 
country, to the same obliging notice, — as a feeble tribute 
of gratitude and respect, for the continued patronage 
with which I have been favoured by your Lordship. 

The nature of the public duties with which I was 
charged, afforded me more than usual means of making 
myself acquainted with the various topics which I have 
undertaken to describe : and repeated visits, having worn 
off the enthusiasm of novelty, enable me to lay before 
your Lordship, a faithful statement of a people hitherto 



iv 



DEDICATION. 



but little understood, though ranking amongst the earliest 
of the European Family. Elegance of style, of which 
the subject is worthy, might have given embellishment 
to the page; but your Lordship, I am sensible, will 
estimate industry in observation, and fidelity in descrip- 
tion, as of much higher value, and will prefer an honest 
attempt to be useful, to any series of polished periods. 

I have the honour to subscribe myself, 
My Lord, 
Your Lordship's much obliged, 

and very humble servant, 

WILLIAM HENRY SMYTH. 



18. James-street, Buckingham- gate ; 
Mag 2lst, 1827. 



CONTENTS. 



Page 

Chapter I. Political History of Sardinia 1 

II. Produce and Resources of Sardinia ... 65 

III. Of the Inhabitants of Sardinia . . . . 129 

IV. Of the Coasts of Sardinia 205 

Appendix I. Statistical Table of Sardinia ..... 329 

II. Ichthyological List 338 

III. The Market Prices 342 

IV. Money, Weights, and Measures .... 344 



INGRAVIN 



Map of Sardinia Frontispiece. 

Plan and elevation of a Nuraggi facing page 6 

Facade of the Jesuits' Convent 211 V" 

Roman Bridge at Porto Torres 285 i 

View of Sassari Cathedral 268 v 

The Belfry of Oristano 295 

WOOD-CUTS. 

The Island Arms on Title page. 

View of a Nuraggi page 4 

Section of a Nuraggi 5 

Coin of Atius Balbus 15 

A Sardinian Cart 94 

A Cottage Mill 101 

A Mufflon 121 

Sardinian Sawyers 157 

Sardinian Costume 204 



INTRODUCTION. 



At a time when our libraries abound with such 
a number of Voyages, Travels, and Geographical 
works, it would seem reasonable that I should offer 
some explanation for adding a volume, upon the 
the subject of Sardinia. 

Classical scholars will readily call to their re- 
collection the notices of this Island, which have 
descended to us from the Ancients ; but as these 
are very brief, and only of a general nature, there 
appeared to be an urgent call for increasing this 
particular stock of knowledge, — and more espe- 
cially as there existed no tolerable description of 
this neglected region. 

In two visits which I made to Sardinia in the 
late war, I was convinced that few places, by resist- 
ing the assimilating polish of civilization, had 
retained such a large portion of primitive character. 

b2 



viii 



INTRODUCTION. 



And, having had the honour of being employed by 
the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty, in the 
years 1823 and 1824, on a maritime survey of its 
coasts, I determined to add to my former notes, by 
making myself as well acquainted with its general 
condition and resources, as time, and my profes- 
sional duties would allow, — in order to supply, in 
some measure, that deficiency which to me was so 
apparent. 

On searching into the annals of Sardinia, I did 
not observe a single treatise, in the English lan- 
guage, that dwelt exclusively on its story; and, 
what is very remarkable, even the laborious 
authors of the Universal History have omitted it. 
Influenced by these circumstances, I drew up a 
compendium of the principal events which have 
biassed its political destinies, as a necessary pre- 
lude : and my intention being rather to connect a 
series of scattered facts, than to aim at the style or 
importance of regular history, I have not thought 
it necessary to cite my authorities, — but I have 
mostly adhered to those writers who, from inferen- 
tial testimony, appeared to merit the fairest con- 
fidence. 



INTRODUCTION. 



ix 



I had proceeded thus far in my undertaking, 
when I made the desirable acquaintance of the 
Chevalier la Marmora, who for several years had 
been actively occupied on a similar object with 
myself. In the most liberal manner he submitted 
his papers to my inspection ; and I was soon satis- 
fied that, had my inquiries been directed merely to 
the natural history of the island, there would 
have been no occasion for me to continue them. 
This gentleman's first volume was published at 
Paris, in the spring of 1826 ; and by its clearness 
and erudition, offers a gratifying proof of the in- 
formation which we may expect in his future 
labours. 

By a singular coincidence, two other works on 
this hitherto neglected subject made their appear- 
ance nearly at the same time with La Marmora's. 
One of them, by M. Mannu, is, I am told, a detailed 
history of the island ; but not having been able, 
as yet, to procure a copy, I cannot speak as to 
its value. The second account is by a Monsieur 
Mimaut, who resided at Cagliari, for a few months, 
in the capacity of consul for France ; and, as I 
am credibly informed, confined his insular travels 



X 



INTRODUCTION. 



to a visit to Quartu, a distance of only four miles 
from the capital. On examining his two heavy 
tomes, I found them to consist of compilations from 
preceding authors, interpolated with errors of the 
grossest absurdity ; and were not " odi omnes in 
scribendo acerbitates" a maxim which is always 
deserving of the attention of authors, when speak- 
ing of each other, I would enter more fully into 
their demerits. Most of Mimaut's views of Sar- 
dinian affairs are drawn, it would seem, from 
Azuni, a lawyer now resident at Cagliari, and who 
has published several very fallacious works . Padre 
G. Napoli, in his " Note illustrate," diffusely con- 
futes this writer, and not only accuses him of 
having " published more falsehoods and exagger- 
ations than lines," but also, though a native of 
Sardinia by birth, of 66 having written without the 
least research, and without ever having seen any- 
thing of the kingdom, except the short space of 
nine miles, between Sassari and Porto Torres." 

Such being the imperfect state of our informa- 
tion on Sardinia, I trust it will be found that I have 
not obtruded myself unnecessarily on the Public. 
If the country had been previously described with 



INTRODUCTION. 



xi 



fidelity and comprehension, my remarks would 
have occupied a smaller compass; but as this 
island must be considered to be very little known, 
I have run the hazard of being thought diffusive, 
rather than too concise in my narrative. To those 
who are curious in looking into old customs and 
superstitions, it will be apparent how numerous 
those are still in Sardinia, which once prevailed 
similarly in England, — and indeed must prevail in 
all countries where the Roman Catholic religion is 
predominant. I have endeavoured to expose all 
the infamy of that horrible state of society, which 
considers assassination allowable : nor am I with- 
out hope, that when the sentiments of foreigners 
are truly known, the Sards may be induced to 
abandon such barbarous ferocity for more social 
principles. 

For whatever I have stated, I have had the 
authority either of living witnesses in whose inte- 
grity I could confide, or the advantage of my own 
personal observation ; and as I have been thus 
scrupulously rigid in the search -of truth, I may 
with propriety, though with all due humility, now 
entreat the reliance and candour of my reader. 



Xll 



INTRODUCTION. 



In conclusion, it may not be unnecessary to state 
that my Nautical Survey of Sardinia has just been 
published, on four sheets, at the Hydrographical 
office of the Admiralty. As no pains have been 
spared in the construction, it is hoped that these 
charts will be found equal to every purpose of Na- 
vigation : they are arranged as follows : — 

1. A general chart of the Island. 

2. The South coast of Sardinia. 

3. The Intermediate islands. 

4. The gulf of Asinara. 



PRESENT STATE 

OF 

SARDINIA. 



Chapter I. 

POLITICAL HISTORY OF SARDINIA. 

Sardinia is, in importance, the next island in the Medi- 
terranean to Sicily; but, although they have been coupled 
together as granaries of ancient Rome, the brilliant aera 
of the latter forms a remarkable contrast to the obscurity 
in which the history of the former is involved. Whilst 
the one boasts a series of bright annals, in which the 
utmost exertions of human intellect are emblazoned, the 
other exhibits only scanty notices of names, facts, and 
dates, broken by many a melancholy blank : the one, in 
its superb relics of antiquity, its temples, sculptures, and 
medals, still claims universal admiration ; while the other 
scarcely retains a vestige, architectural, numismatic, or 
historic, to attest either opulence or power. But, although 
decidedly inferior to her proud sister, Sardinia is not 
destitute of numerous and various objects of attraction, 
and her records bear decided testimony to that love of 
freedom which has always animated her natives. It is, 
therefore, difficult to assign a reason why an European 

B 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



island so admirably situated, possessing a fine climate 
and great fertility, should have remained through all 
ages so little known. 

The early accounts, which are rather of a relative than 
a positive nature, make Phorcus, a supposed descendant 
of Noah, with a party of Etruscans, the earliest set- 
tlers, about 1700 years B.C. But most authors agree 
in ascribing the first colonization to the Lybians under 
Sardis, son of the Theban Hercules, who, about the 
year 1200 B.C. was recognised as king, and gave his 
name to the island, which, from its fancied resemblance 
to the human foot, had been theretofore called Sandaliotis, 
and Ichnusa. Mention is subsequently made of Aristseus, 
father of the unlucky Actseon, and a sort of itinerant be- 
nefactor of nations, who civilized the natives, and taught 
them planting, tillage, the rearing of bees, and the art 
of making cheese. He is named as the founder of 
Caralis ; and having left two sons in this island, Carmus 
and Calaecarpus, passed over into Sicily, where he 
became adored as the tutelary deity of olive-grounds. 
About the same period, Norax, the grandson of Geryon, 
arrived with an Iberian force, and built Nora. These 
settlers were followed by lolaus, the nephew of Her- 
cules, who, at the express command of an oracle, esta- 
blished a colony in Sardinia with the Thespiadas and 
other Greeks. This chief is supposed to have founded 
Olbia, and to have erected various gymnasia and temples. 
From him also the people through many ages were 
called Iolaeians, it having been predicted, that, if they 



OF SARDINIA. 



3 



retained his name, they would secure their freedom for 
ever. Their terming the best grounds Iolseian fields, 
may be ascribed to this cause, as also the alteration of 
the name of Caralis, which appears from the celebrated 
inscription found at Stampace : 

DIVO HERCVLI POZT CATEGLISMY 
REST AV R A T O R I CONSERVATORI 
REPARATORI C1VITAS IOL/C 
D. D. D. 

During the reign of Iolaus, a party of Trojan fugi- 
tives were driven on the eastern coast of the island by a 
storm, and being well received by the Hellenic colonists, 
settled themselves along the shores of the Campidano, 
where they became one people with these countrymen of 
their late implacable enemies, and in the culture of a 
fertile soil were recompensed for the loss of Ilium and 
the fields of the Troas. From this period history makes 
little mention of Sardinia for several centuries, except 
stating that the Heraclidae remained in command until 
the arrival of the Carthaginians; and that parties of Phoe- 
nicians, Lydians, Thracians, Rhodians, Cypriots, and 
various other people settled here ; some for commercial ob- 
jects, and others to seek refuge from the civil wars which 
desolated their own shores. The fact of so many Greeks 
resorting thither, proves the island to have been well 
known to them, and certainly takes off the improbability 
that has been alleged to the relation of Herodotus con- 
cerning the engagements entered into between Darius, 
the son of Hystaspes, and Histaeus of Miletus, wherein 

B 2 



4 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



the latter exclaimed, " I swear by the deities of Heaven, 
that I will not change the garb in which I shall set foot 
in Ionia, without rendering the great island of Sardinia 
tributary to your power !" 

It is to these obscure ages that I am inclined to refer 
the very singular remains strewed over Sardinia, to the 
amount of several hundred, and called Nuraggis, a name 
probably derived from Norax, the Iberian, or from 
veogoi%is, a new rock. They are strong buildings, in 
the form of a truncated cone, composed of masses of 
stone, from two to five or six feet square, arranged in 
layers, without cement, but not so skilfully built as the 
Cyclopean structures which I have observed in Greece. 
The materials are lava, freestone, porphyry, or such other 
substances as the respective sites afford ; and they ge- 
nerally crown the summits of hills commanding plains, 
where they are seen in every state, some nearly com- 
plete, others a mere heap of rubbish. This sketch shews 
the most usual appearance of them. 



OF SARDINIA. 



5 



The entrance is generally very low, and though mostly 
on the eastern side, no regard seems to have been paid to 
the compass. On entering, the structure is found to ex- 
tend below the surface of the surrounding earth ; the in- 
terior space is almost invariably divided into two floors, 
each consisting of a vaulted room, to which access is 
gained from a ramp between two concentric walls, and 
leading nearly to the summit, where a flight of steps com- 
pletes the ascent: — 




thus essentially differing from a curious monument of a 
like character which I examined near Allaior in Minorca, 
where the ramp is exterior. They are unlike the Pictish 
towers of Scotland also, though the outward appearances 
are somewhat similar, for in these the concentric walls 
have a considerable interval at the base, but unite at the 
top, and the whole interior space is open to the sky. 
The Nuraggis are of two distinct kinds ; those which are 
the most common have no marks of the chisel, and are 



6 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



constructed of massive blocks, with irregular faces, and 
smaller stones in the interstices: the materials of the 
others exhibit exteriors formed by tools, though the 
stones are not exactly square ; but they are placed with 
stricter regard to keeping the layers horizontal, and gra- 
dually diminish in size towards the summit. Fine spe- 
cimens of this early architecture are to be seen at Isili, 
Gennori, Campo d'Ozieri, Baulada, and in many other 
places ; but one possessing the most imposing appearance 
stands between Samugheu and Fordongianus, in the 
district of Busachi, which, from being nearly sixty feet 
high, is called " Su Nuraggi longu." I examined a very 
remarkable one on the plain of Giavesu, near Bonorva, 
in company with Captain Catella of the Piedmontese 
Engineers, who caused a plan and section to be made of it, 
which I have here given as being more explanatory than 
the mere view I took of it myself. The edifice consists 
principally of a large nuraggi on a solid substructure, 
below which is a smaller one at each angle, connected 
with the first by a covered gallery ; the whole constructed 
of very durable lava. There have been various conjec- 
tures respecting the probable object of these buildings; — 
the darkness of their interior, and the fragments of 
terracotta found in them, would indicate their having 
been monuments for the dead — a belief so general in the 
Sulcis, that they are there called " Domu de Orcu," or 
house of death : yet the pottery being evidently Roman, 
and in some instances accompanied by coins of the Lower 
Empire, indicates only that such was the use made of 



Elevation. 




PLAN OF A NUEAGGI LN" THE CAMPO GlAVE SU . 




Section through the line ^d.£ . 

? £2 2£ J° 

Scale of English Yards 



J.& C.WcdJeer Sculp* 

' Published bu J.Muii-cai.Aliefncu-lc STZorulon^ipMj.827. 



OF SARDINIA. 



1 



them at a late period. From their laborious construction, 
their number, and their general situation on " curcu- 
reddus," or eminences more or less distant from each 
other, I cannot but suppose they were designed to answer 
the double purpose of mausoleasa for the eminent dead, 
and asyla for the living, especially as many of them are 
flanked by smaller nuraggis, having a subterranean com- 
munication. But the mystery in which they are involved 
will probably remain impenetrable, since none of them 
exhibit the least trace of either literal or symbolical cha- 
racters. 

Notwithstanding the paucity of historic details, it may 
be concluded that so commercial a neighbour as Car- 
thage had long been in communication with this island, 
and that the Lybian invasion, which drove the Trojans 
up to the mountains, was one of the early exploits of that 
enterprising state. We then learn with more certainty 
that about 530 years B.C. the Punic forces under Ma- 
chseus, after a victorious campaign in Sicily, attempted 
the conquest of Sardinia. The Sards, united with a 
band of Corsicans, totally defeated them, and forced them 
to reimbark with confusion and loss ; for which, on their 
return home, they were disgraced and banished by their 
countrymen. This ungrateful act so enraged Machaeus, 
whose warlike career had only received this single check, 
that, finding remonstrance vain, he set the authorities at 
defiance, invested the city, finally took it, and insisting 
on the death of ten of the senators, who were the authors 
of the late odious decrees, replaced the republic on its 



8 POLITICAL HISTORY 

former footing. This appears to have restrained the ar- 
dour of the Punic leaders, for Sardinia was left in repose 
during the able administration of Mago ; though his two 
sons, Asdrubal and Hamilcar, were despatched thither 
with an expedition, of the success of which we are unac- 
quainted, except that after several engagements Asdrubal 
was mortally wounded. The Sards exulted as much on 
this occasion as if an army had been destroyed, while the 
Carthaginian lamentations abundantly proved the great- 
ness of their loss. 

The dates and circumstances of the successive Punic 
attempts to subjugate Sardinia are alike obscure : it is 
certain, however, that every horror of sword and fire 
were inflicted in order to reduce it ; that several unsub- 
dued tribes leaving the plains, sought refuge in the fast- 
nesses of the mountains, and that the entire conquest of 
the island, though disputed for upwards of two centuries 
and a half, was never achieved. Between the 97th and 
100th Olympiad, a severe plague, of which a principal fea- 
ture was furious madness, desolated Carthage, and sorely 
enfeebled the republic. Of this calamity the Sards of 
the Sulcis and other Punic provinces took advantage, 
by attempting to shake off their galling yoke ; — but the 
effort proved ineffectual, for, after some effusion of blood, 
they were again reduced to obedience, and remained in 
tranquil subjection until agitated by the grand contests 
between the rival states of Rome and Carthage. 

In the year 259 B.C., Cornelius Scipio returning from 
the siege of Alleria in Corsica, attacked and defeated the 



OF SARDINIA, 



9 



Carthaginian fleet at Olbia, where he honoured his fallen 
enemy, Hanno, with a magnificent funeral. In the 
following year another naval victory was gained over 
Hannibal the elder, at Calaris ; the destruction of ships 
and men on this occasion, together with the loss of 
several towns, so enraged the Africans, that they seized 
the hapless admiral and crucified him. The Roman 
writers assert, that the whole island was now overrun 
by their victorious legions, but do not account for its 
reverting again to its former masters. 

Scarcely was the first Punic war concluded, when the 
Romans, having gained Sicily, resolved to obtain Sardinia 
also ; and a pretext was shortly found : for about the 
year 238 B.C. the numerous mercenaries that garrisoned 
the island, taking part in the revolt of Spendius at 
Carthage, killed Bostar, their general, and most of his 
adherents. Hanno was thereupon sent to bring them to 
obedience ; but his troops joining the rebels, he became 
a prisoner, and was immediately nailed to a cross. They 
afterwards slew all the Carthaginians, with the same 
revolting barbarity which their fellow-mercenaries were 
practising in Africa; and having seized the principal 
holds, forcibly possessed themselves of the island. The 
Sards, however, unable to brook their tyranny, flew to 
arms, and defeating the unprincipled crew, expelled them 
to Italy ; where, notwithstanding the professions of friend- 
ship which the Romans had lately given to the Carthagi- 
nians, the fugitives were countenanced and protected, 
and their prayers for assistance granted, under the fri- 



10 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



volous excuse that there was no Punic force on the island 
at the time. The Carthaginians meanwhile, anxious to 
regain Sardinia, made the necessary preparations, on 
which the Romans pretended to be under apprehensions 
that the object was to subvert their republic ; and well- 
knowing the extenuated condition of their rivals, who 
were but just released from the dreadful mercenary war, 
seized this occasion to take up arms against them. Unable 
to contend, the senate of Carthage yielded to the necessity 
of the times, and not only gave up Sardinia, but also 
consented to pay twelve hundred talents, the estimated 
expense of the armament of Sempronius, rather than 
be involved in a conflict which they were too weak to 
maintain. This iniquitous perfidy, however, increasing 
the implacable aversion which the magnanimous Hamilcar 
already entertained towards the Romans, tended to give 
rise to the second Punic war. 

The islanders having experienced the advantages of 
freedom, struggled for some time against T. M. Tor- 
quatus and M. P. Matho, but were at length subdued, 
and incorporated with Corsica into a Roman province, 
governed by a prsetor. In the third year of the second 
Punic war, the unconscionable exactions of their new 
masters, both in money and corn, induced the Sards to 
apply to the Carthaginians for relief, representing at the 
same time the weakness of the Roman forces, and that 
Q. M. Scaevola, the new praetor, who had but just 
superseded A. C. Mamula, would be exposed to every 
disadvantage from his local inexperience. Mamula 



OF SARDINIA. 



1] 



having, in the meanwhile, gone to Rome, laid before 
the senate the true state of the island, and the inefficiency 
of the garrisons. Scsevola, he also said, had fallen 
dangerously ill, from the heaviness of the water and the 
badness of the air, and even if he recovered would be 
some time before he could resume the command of an 
active army. On this representation, Q. M. Flaccus was 
despatched to Sardinia, with a reinforcement of 5000 
infantry and 400 cavalry, together with T, M. Tor- 
quatus, (who had been honoured with a triumph for his 
late services in the island,) to act for Scsevola during 
his indisposition. 

Torquatus continued the precautionary measures 
already adopted, and armed all the vessels in the port 
of Caralis. He then proceeded with an army of 2,200 
foot and 1,200 horse towards Cornus, near the present 
St. Lussurgiu, where the insurgents, headed by Arsicorus, 
a rich and powerful nobleman, were awaiting the arrival 
of promised succour from Carthage*. This chief having 
gone into the district of the Pellidi Sardi, to inflame the 
revolt and raise supplies, had left his son Hiostus in 
command ; and the youth, ambitious of defeating the 
enemy before the arrival of the allies, rashly risked a 
battle, in which he was overthrown with a heavy loss of 
men. This affair would have proved decisive, but for 

* From the ruins of Cyclopian wall, and other vestiges that 
exist at and near Padria, some antiquaries are inclined to place 
Cornus in the Planargia, but the historic details are too vague 
for any thing beyond conjecture. 



12 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



the timely arrival of the Punic forces under Asdrubal 
the Bald, which uniting with those of Arsicorus, after 
several skirmishes, scoured the country, and at length 
approached Calaris. Here Torquatus determined to 
bring the affair to an issue: a general action ensued, 
in which, after a severe contest, the allies were totally 
defeated, with a loss of 1200 killed and 3700 taken 
prisoners; Asdrubal, Hanno, and Mago were amongst 
the captives, and the trophies were decorated with 
twenty-seven standards. Hiostus was killed at the 
head of his men, which, with the loss of army and 
friends, so affected the unhappy father, that he destroyed 
himself the same evening. The shattered remains of 
the confederates fled to Cornus, but upon the first sum- 
mons from the conqueror, surrendered at discretion. 
The fall of this important fortress compelled the other 
insurgents to implore for terms, which Torquatus 
granted, on their giving hostages for their future fidelity, 
and paying a heavy imposition of money and provisions, 
proportioned to the enmity that had been manifested, 
and also to the funds of the conquered. This done, 
the conqueror re-embarked for Rome, where he related 
his successes to the senate, and gave the money he had 
levied to the quaestors, the provisions to the aediles, and 
the prisoners to his colleague. 

Sardinia adhered to the Roman interests during the 
continuance of the Punic struggles ; and after the fall 
of Carthage, thought no more of independence, the 
adage " post Carthaginem vinci neminem puduit" suf- 



OF SARDINIA. 



13 



ficiently defending her honour. A harassing internal 
warfare, however, arose between the people of the plains 
and those of the mountains ; for, in the district called 
Barbargia, there lived the Iliensi, the fierce, untractable 
descendants of the Trojans, and the Balari, the relics of 
an Iberian race, who, despising the arts of peace, and 
secure in their inaccessible retreats, were wont to ravage 
the adjacent provinces with impunity. Succeeding in 
engaging other tribes to join their party, and many more 
being driven to their standard by the exactions of the 
praetors, a very extensive revolt broke out. After 
repeated ineffectual attempts to reduce the disaffected, 
it was at length determined, about the year 178 B.C., 
to make Sardinia a consular province, and to increase 
the Roman force by two legions, besides a body of 
12,000 " Sociorum Latini nominis, , ' or confederated 
militia. With these powerful means, T. S. Gracchus 
soon subjugated the rebels, including the Iliensi, and 
took such a multitude of prisoners, that, after his public 
triumph at Rome, the number of slaves in the market 
was so great as to give rise to the proverb, 46 Sardi 
venales," from the sale of them appearing to be endless ; 
at least such is the explanation given by native writers to 
that ambiguous phrase*. To commemorate the complete 

* Many of the imputations cast on Sardinia may have been in- 
tended for Sardis, the capital of Lydia, or for Sardica in Illyria ; 
but Cicero, in speaking of Phameas and Tigellius, expressly 
quotes " Habes Sardos venales, alium alio nequiorem," as an old 
proverb applicable to their country. 



14 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



success of this expedition, the conqueror suspended a 
votive tablet in the temple of Matuta, on which was 
delineated a plan of the island, marking the site of each 
of his victories, and recording that " Under the command 
and auspices of T. Sempronius Gracchus, an army of 
the Roman people subdued Sardinia, in which province 
80,000 enemies were either killed or taken prisoners. 
The consul, after this success, and freeing the allies 
from being tributary to the enemy, brought back his 
army safe and entire, and enriched with booty. A 
second time he entered Rome in triumph ; as a memorial 
of which, he caused this inscription to be hung up in 
honour of Jupiter." 

Shortly after this severe punishment, predatory bands 
of Barbaricini, or mountaineers of the part still called 
Barbargia, harassed the agricultural people of the plains; 
and becoming more audacious from success, occasioned 
another expedition, which was remarkable, from the em- 
ployment of blood-hounds. About this time the gallant 
Caius Gracchus, son of the conqueror of the Iliensi, was 
accused by his enemies of courting an undue popularity 
with the Sards in his capacity of quaestor. Repairing 
forthwith to Rome, he defended the rectitude of his 
conduct in the most manly way ; observing, 66 that he 
had neither levied gifts, nor torn women from their 
husbands ; and that, instead of bringing away vases full 
of money after drinking the wine, as many other Romans 
had done, he went to Sardinia with a full purse, and 
returned with an empty one." This harangue so com- 



OF SARDINIA. 



15 



pletely vindicated his integrity, that the people imme- 
diately elected him their tribune ; and so vast a con- 
course attended from every part of the country to vote 
on the occasion, that Rome could not contain them. 

The island now underwent the usual fate of Roman 
provinces ; and sharing in the calamities attendant on 
the discords of Marius and Sylla, followed alternately 
the fortunes of Pompey, Gato, and Caesar. Sextus 
wresting it from Octavius, the want of its corn was so 
severely felt at Rome during a famine, as to occasion 
the famous peace concluded at Misenum, by which 
Sextus retained Achaia, Sicily, and Sardinia. Mena- 
dorus, his freedman, was left praetor of the latter ; but 
being summoned by his master to answer an accusation, 
he murdered the deputies, and treacherously restored the 
island to Octavius. Atius Balbus, the maternal grand - 
father of Augustus, was praetor of Sardinia about 60 
years B.C., and caused this middle brass medal to be 
struck — 




which is the only numismatic specimen proper to the 
island; for the half horse assigned to Calaris, by the wil- 
fully erring Goltzius, is a coin of Cuma, one of the iEolic 
colonies of Asia Minor. A few Carthaginian and Ro- 



16 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



man medals are occasionally found, but nothing national 
or colonial— a striking and peculiar deficiency in Sar- 
dinian archseologia. 

From the fall of Sextus to the Vandalic invasion, there 
is little interesting matter recorded, the island being 
viewed by the Romans as a mere granary, and as a place 
of banishment for their criminals. Amongst other exiles, 
4000 military Jews were sent thither by Tiberius, " to 
make war," says Tacitus, " upon the freebooters who 
plundered the inhabitants and ravaged the country. If 
the whole number died in that unwholesome climate, the 
loss, it was said, would be of no kind of moment." 

During this time the laws appear to have been admi- 
nistered with justice, the cities of Calaris and Turris were 
admitted to the rights of Roman citizenship, and the 
whole population became tranquillized. Agriculture had 
been depressed by the Carthaginians, but prospered so 
much under their successors, that Rome was abundantly 
supplied from Sardinia. It is therefore to this sera we 
must assign the adoption of the Roman language and 
manners, which have been continued in many parts to 
the present hour. 

Though unacquainted with circumstantial details, we 
know that the Vandals invaded Sardinia, and that the 
fierce Genseric was in possession of it after the death of 
Valentinian, whence it has been concluded, that its or- 
thodox prelates shared in the horrors of the Arian perse- 
cution. Disgusted with the oppressions and piracies of 
the Vandals, and resolved to chastise the insolence of 



OF SARDINIA. 



their chief, the emperor Leo made vast preparations for 
carrying the war into Africa, and at an expense of 
134,000 pounds weight of gold, fitted out an expedition 
of 1113 ships, and 100,000 men. In the year A.D. 468, 
this fleet, under the command of Basiliscus, sailed for 
Sicily, the place appointed as a general rendezvous, whence 
Marcellinus was detached to Sardinia, and Heraclius to 
Libya; while the commander in chief, with the main body, 
was to sail for Carthage. Pursuant to this plan, Marcelli- 
nus made himself master of Sardinia, and Heraclius of Tri- 
polis, and then both of them hastened to head-quarters. 

Disheartened by such sudden losses, and the appear- 
ance of so formidable an armament, Genseric looked 
upon his kingdom as irretrievably lost, and is said to 
have contemplated the evacuation of Africa. Indeed, 
had Basiliscus been possessed of ability, he would have 
advanced, and crushed his enemy at a single blow ; but 
instead of this, he consented to a fatal truce, at a moment 
when he should have foreseen the advantage which pro- 
crastination would afford to the crafty Vandal, GenseriCj 
watching the first fair wind that blew towards the enemy's 
fleet, despatched his best vessels with a number of fire- 
ships, which, under cover of the night, were towed 
amongst the ships of the unsuspecting Romans. In the 
confusion thereby occasioned, the Vandals, falling on the 
crews, overwhelmed them with showers of darts and 
other missiles ; and most of those who escaped from the 
immediate horrors of the night, were afterwards destroyed 
by the victorious cruisers. 

C 



18 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



Aware of the dismay which would be created by the 
destruction of this ill-fated armada, Genseric put to sea, 
and not only recovered possession of Sardinia, but also 
reduced all the islands between Africa and Italy. Having 
thus extended his conquests, and made the Romans 
shudder at his very name, he died, full of years and 
glory, and was succeeded, in 477 A. D., by his son Hun- 
neric. This prince not only enforced his father's Arian 
principles, but greatly exceeded him in his hatred of the 
orthodox establishment ; and during a reign of only eight 
years, exercised greater cruelties than his father had done 
in his long one of sixty. His death, occasioned by a 
singular and horrible disease, suspended for a few years 
the distresses of the sufferers, for Gutamund, the third 
Vandal ruler, recalled the surviving bishops to their 
flocks, and to the full and free exercise of their tenets. 
The sudden death of this monarch, however, was ruinous 
to the revivescent church, as Thrasamund immediately 
renewed the persecution, and, amongst other arbitrary 
acts, exiled Fulgentius and a hundred and twenty bishops 
to Sardinia. The mild Hilderic, who ascended the 
throne in 523, as fifth king of the Vandals, published a 
manifesto against the edicts of his predecessor, and 
restored the banished prelates to their functions. But 
this act, being in contempt of an oath that had been 
extorted from him, excited the indignation of the Arians, 
of which Gelimer, an ambitious prince of the blood, took 
advantage, and procured the deposition of his sovereign, 
in the seventh year of his reign. Eager to assist the 



OF SARDINIA. 19 

cause of religion and royalty against this usurpation, the 
Emperor of the East resolved to attempt the recovery of 
Africa, and, equipping a formidable army, bestowed the 
command of it on the famed Belisarius, a man as remark- 
able for ability and courage in great enterprises, as for 
resignation in misfortune. 

The rebellion of Pudentius, abetted by Justinian, had 
already wrested Tripolis from Gelimer, when Goda, the 
governor of Sardinia, depending on similar assistance, 
declared himself king of the island, and a tributary vassal 
of the empire. This afforded Belisarius a certain source 
of supplies, besides convenient ports to retire to in case of 
need, during the invasion*of Carthage. But, in the mean 
time, Gelimer had despatched his brother, Zazon, with 
some of his choicest troops, to quell the insurgents ; and 
that leader, having surprised Calaris, and put the usurper 
to death, was in a fair way of reducing the whole island, 
when he was hastily recalled to arrest the victorious pro- 
gress of Belisarius. 

The meeting of the brothers and their soldiers in Africa 
was affectingly mournful, particularly for the Sardinian 
division, all of whose inquiries after relations and friends 
were answered with the sad tidings of their being either 
killed or taken prisoners. A decisive battle was soon 
after fought, in which Zazon was slain ; and, in conse- 
quence of it, the pusillanimous Gelimer, after being 
nearly starved on a mountain, was led captive, meanly 
weeping and wailing, to Constantinople. This defeat 
entirely extinguishing the Vandalic monarchy, Cyrillus 

C 2 



%Q POLITICAL HISTORY 

was despatched to occupy Sardinia; where, to quiet the 
apprehensions of the natives lest the Vandals should once 
more return, he exposed the head of the brave though 
unfortunate Zazon, and was thereupon received with 
acclamation. 

Sardinia was now annexed to the praetorian prefecture 
of Africa, and continued under the Greek emperors until 
the beginning of the eighth century, a period of about 
170 years. It was, indeed, reduced for a time by Totila; 
but the entire discomfiture of the Goths by Narses, re- 
stored it again to the Eastern empire. The historic 
notices about this time are extremely slight, and the 
matter of most interest, was merely the reduction of the 
predatory hordes of Barbargia. These mountaineers 
were wont to make ruinous incursions into the adjacent 
plains, where, per syncopen, from " barbari vicini," they 
acquired the name of " Barbaricim." About the year 
594, Zabardus, duke of the island, by repeated attacks 
reduced them to implore peace, which was at length 
granted, on condition that Hospitus, their chief, and his 
followers, should abandon idolatry for the predominant 
truths of Christianity. This conversion appears to have 
been reluctant, for we find that the aruspices long main- 
tained their influence, and that Januarius the archbishop 
went to Rome to complain that, by giving a fee to the 
military officers, the natives were allowed to sacrifice to 
their heathen deities. The pastors themselves, however, 
in the epistles of Gregory the Great, are accused of no- 
torious lubricity and peculation, of removing landmarks, 



OF SARDINIA. 



21 



allowing nuns to go about begging, perverting hospital 
revenues, and fulminating anathemas from interested 
motives. 

In the year 720, the Saracens ravaged Cagliari and its 
vicinity with merciless ferocity; and as Constantinople 
was no longer able to defend her distant provinces against 
such enterprising foes, the Sards solicited aid from the 
king of the Lombards, with whose assistance the Mussul- 
mans were driven out of the island in 739. But deter- 
mined to regain so rich a possession, they continued the 
most strenuous exertions, with various success, for up- 
wards of seventy years; when the dispirited islanders 
tendered their allegiance to Louis le Debonnaire, and 
thereby became attached to the Western empire. This 
annexation, however, did not afford them much protec- 
tion, for the piractical incursions of the infidels were 
both frequent and cruel, so that many thousands of the 
islanders fled, to the scarcely less persecuted shores of 
Italy. 

About the year 1000, Musat, an enterprising Moorish 
adventurer, prepared a very formidable armament, and 
sailed direct for Cagliari, flattering himself that, the 
capital being once taken, every other place in the island 
would open its gates to him; nor was he mistaken, 
though the acquisition cost him several thousand men. 
He assumed the title of King of Sardinia, and taking 
advantage of its central situation, molested all the neigh- 
bouring shores with fury and rapacity. Alarmed at 
these successes, Pope John XVIII. published a bull, 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



exhorting the Christian potentates to arm against the 
infidels, and proffering the island as a reward to the 
conqueror. The Pisans, eager to avenge an insult 
which they had received from the Moors, were the first 
to attack them, and were not long before they gained 
possession of Cagliari. Musat, besieging it again in 
1015 with another fleet, reduced them to agree that, if 
not relieved in eight days, they would evacuate; in 
return for which, they were to remain unmolested, and 
be allowed to take away whatever property they could 
carry upon their backs. No reinforcements making their 
appearance, the unsuspecting garrison marched out at 
the time appointed, but were treacherously murdered ! 

Elated by this success, Musat embarked for Italy, and 
shortly after attacked and carried the town of Luni, 
where he committed enormous excesses. Benedict VIII., 
grieved at these tidings, promptly despatched a force by 
sea and land, to cut off the retreat of the Moors, which 
was so intrepidly and effectually done, that after a dread- 
ful carnage Luni was retaken, and Musat alone escaped 
in a small boat then lying on the beach. His wife, being 
captured, was condemned to death, which so enraged 
him that, on his return to Sardinia, besides crucifying 
many Italians, he sent the Pope a sack of chestnuts, as 
an indication of the number of people he would employ 
in wreaking his revenge : his Holiness outdid the threat 
by returning the bag filled with millet seed. 

The bishop of Ostia had been sent as legate, to excite 
the flourishing state of Pisa to another crusade, for the 



OF SARDINIA. 



23 



liberation of Sardinia, in which he persuaded Genoa also 
to join. These allies, having totally defeated the Saracen 
fleet in 1022, drove Musat from the island, and though 
their persevering enemy had nearly regained it in 1050, 
they kept possession of the prize. Several important 
posts in the Capo di Sopra, between Alghero and the 
Gallura, were assigned to the Genoese by Gualdacio, the 
Pisan chief, who claimed the rest of the island for his 
countrymen, as a matter of right. The kingdom was 
then divided into the four j udicatures of Cagliari, Arbo- 
rea, Torres, and Gallura, each governed by a prince 
independent of the others, but feudatory to Pisa. This 
form of administration, so admirably adapted to balance 
the interests of a recently subjected people, is said by 
many, to be typified in the four heads still borne as the 
arms of Sardinia, though others, with much more reason, 
think they are intended to commemorate the defeats of 
the Saracens. 

On what terms the Genoese were induced to join in 
this enterprise of liberating Sardinia, is a strongly con- 
tested point : some writers affirm they were to have all 
the booty, leaving the sovereignty to the Pisans, but the 
Genoese assert that their countrymen never consented to 
such disadvantageous terms. The Pisans alleged the 
investiture of the island, as received from the Pope, which 
the Genoese make no mention of, but boast of the defeat 
of Musat as being entirely owing to them, and assert 
that a partition of the island with their allies was mutually 
agreed upon. The flame of discord, from whatever cause, 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



when once raised, is not easily extinguished; and the 
mutual aggressions on the territory of each other, which 
continued during two centuries, proved the jealous ani- 
mosity of the rival republics, and ended only with the 
ruin of Pisa. In 1164, Barisona, judge of Arborea, 
instigated by the Genoese, offered Frederic Barbarossa 
the sum of four thousand marks of silver, and an annual 
tribute, for the royalty of Sardinia. The avaricious em- 
peror greedily accepted the proposal, and notwithstanding 
the opposition of the Pisan consuls, Barisona was solemnly 
crowned by the bishop of Liege, in the church of St. Syrio, 
in Pavia. After the ceremony, the Genoese, who had 
guaranteed the terms, were obliged to ratify them, to 
avoid the mortification of seeing their new king marched 
a prisoner into Germany with the crown upon his head, 
as was threatened, if the money was not immediately 
paid. Irritated by this taunt, and finding him unable to 
discharge his debts, or even to prevail on his subjects to 
acknowledge his title, the Genoese imprisoned this weak 
emblem of sovereignty, and laid claim to his dominions.* 
The Pisans, leagued with the three other judges of the 
island, wreaked their vengeance on Barisona by ravaging 
the province of Arborea ; an insult which the Genoese 

* The title of Judge, peculiar to these princes, has led several 
writers into error; thus Voltaire, in his Annates de V Empire, 
speaking of this transaction, says, " un des quatre baillis de la 
Sardaigne, qui s'etait enrichi, vint demander a Frederic le titre 
de roi." Andrews, in his Chronological History of Great Britain, 
vol. i., p. 167, says, "Barisona, a Sardinian lawyer, purchases 
of Frederic, the German emperor, the royalty Of Sardinia:' 



OF SARDINIA. 



25 



retaliated by sacking and burning the city of Torres. 
In 1165, the Pisans, in their turn, under favour of a 
golden bribe, entreated and obtained a grant of the sove- 
reignty of Sardinia, from the crafty emperor, as a fief of 
the empire; whilst he, being indifferent who governed, 
provided it bore the imperial gonfalon, had also recently 
invested his uncle Guelph with the same dignity. This 
act again inflamed the Genoese against their rivals; but 
after a ten years'* contest, both parties, being weary of the 
war, submitted their grievances to the arbitration of the 
emperor, who, in contempt of his former investitures, 
decided that, as in jointly expelling the Saracens, the 
two republics had been at equal risk and equal expense, 
the island should be equally divided between them. 
Barisona, who had been liberated from his prison, after 
a very trifling struggle, made his submission to the 
authorities of Pisa, and remained in insignificant obscu- 
rity. 

The rivals continuing to dispute, Frederic II. took 
advantage thereof, by negotiating a marriage for his na- 
tural son Enzio with Adelasia, widow of Ubaldus, king of 
Gallura and Torres : but she, wishing first to be recon- 
ciled to Pope Gregory IX. who had excommunicated her 
late husband for invading Cagliari, was persuaded, by the 
intriguing legate Alexander, to make a donation of her 
territories to the Holy See. The investiture, however, 
was returned to her and her descendants, on condition of 
an annual payment of four pounds weight of silver, into 
the papal treasury, and that the provinces should devolve, 



26 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



ipso facto, to the Apostolic chamber, on her dying with- 
out issue. Enzio is said to have proved a tyrannical 
husband, confining Adelasia in the castle of Goceano, 
and depriving her of her riches and judicature. He suc- 
ceeded also in acquiring the judicature of Arborea, whose 
judge, Pietro di Capraja, had followed the common ex- 
ample of throwing off the allegiance to Pisa, and swear- 
ing fealty to his holiness. The Pope, enraged at finding 
he had thundered excommunications against both father 
and son in vain, convened a general council to dethrone 
the Emperor, who, defying his threats, detained all the 
prelates that were proceeding to Rome by land. Mean- 
while, Enzio with twenty-seven gallies, assisted by forty- 
seven chosen Pisan vessels, on the 3rd of May, 1247, 
intercepted the Genoese fleet of sixty-eight sail, which 
was conveying another host of prelates to the council. 
He took twenty-two galleys, sunk three, and sent the 
prisoners, amounting to 4000, to Pisa, honouring the two 
cardinals with silver chains. After giving numerous 
proofs of courage and talents, in various parts of Italy, 
this prince was himself taken prisoner by the Bolognese, 
on the 26th of May, 1249, and remained in confinement 
during the rest of his life, a period of twenty -two years. 

The mutual jealousy of Genoa and Pisa remained un- 
abated, and was manifested in frequent hostilities, of 
which the most remarkable incidents were, the reinstating 
of Sinoncello, judge of Cinarca in Corsica, by the Pisans; 
and the execution of Chiano, the reigning judge of 
Cagliari, in 1256, for having leagued with the Genoese. 



OF SARDINIA. 



27 



Reciprocal insults increasing, vigorous preparations were 
made on both sides; and, in 1283, a fleet of fifty-four 
Pisan galleys was sent under Saracini in quest of the 
enemy, and not finding him, landed some troops in Sar- 
dinia, and retook several places. The following year, 
whilst twenty-four Pisan galleys were convoying two 
large ships full of troops, to subdue the rebellions excited 
by the Genoese in Sardinia, one of the transports, on 
board of which was Boniface Gherardeschi, losing her 
convoy, got into the Genoese fleet of twenty-two galleys, 
bound the same way; but the Pisans soon coming in 
sight, the prize was ransacked and burnt, and then all 
joyfully prepared for battle. The victory was obsti- 
nately disputed, but finally obtained by the Genoese, the 
Pisans losing thirteen galleys, one sunk, and 6000 men 
killed, wounded, and taken prisoners. Thus repeatedly 
worsted, their Podesta Morosini, a Venetian, endeavoured 
to engage Venice in a league, but she persisted in re- 
maining neuter. This loss, however, only excited them 
to greater exertions, and with triumphant acclamations 
they soon beheld no less than seventy-two galleys, besides 
other vessels, leave their shores-, crowded with the flower 
of their nobility, and commanded by the celebrated Count 
Ugolino della Gherardesca. Availing themselves of a 
part of the Genoese fleet being engaged in the attack of 
Sassari, they went and insulted Genoa at her very gates. 
This was not allowed to pass with impunity, for, enraged 
at the affront, the inhabitants rushed on board such of 
their vessels as were in the harbour, hurried out upon 



28 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



the foe, took eight gallies, sunk one, and made the rest 
retreat in confusion. Still more to resent this bravado, 
the Genoese recalled their thirty gallies from Sardinia, 
added fifty-eight to them, and under Hubert Doria, sent 
them in pursuit of the enemy. The hostile fleets met off 
Meloria, on the 6th of August, 3284, and aware that 
the fate of their respective countries depended on the 
event, a hard-fought battle ensued, which terminated in 
the total rout of the Pisans. The admiral escaped with 
three galleys, but twenty-seven were taken, seven sunk, 
and the rest of their shattered forces gladly sought shelter 
in Porto Pisano. Four thousand men were slain, whilst 
Morosini, with a son of Ugolino, and their most skilful 
nobles, were among the prisoners, who, added to those 
which had been taken in the course of the war, amounted 
to 11,000. 

The Genoese returned home in triumph, and from the 
number of their prizes and prisoners arose the Tuscan 
proverb, " those who would see Pisa, must repair to 
Genoa." The conquerors were undecided what to do 
with such a multitude of captives, whose lives were saved 
only with the political view of preventing their wives 
from remarrying, and thereby recruiting the strength of 
the state. A treaty was set on foot for their release, on 
condition that the castle of Cagliari should be ceded to 
Genoa, but they magnanimously protested against it, 
refusing their liberty at such a price. Nor did Ugolino 
urge their freedom, fearing the return of the many poli- 
tical enemies he had among them ; and the consequence 



OF SARDINIA. 



was, that they remained in captivity the whole of the 
fifteen years that the war lasted. 

The Guelphs of the several states of Tuscany, resolving 
to seize this opportunity of re-establishing their faction, 
formed an alliance with the Genoese for thirty years. 
The Pisans, alarmed at this federal compact, conferred 
the dignity of podesta and captain of the people, in 1285, 
upon Ugolino, and thereby dissolved the league ; for he, 
being one of the heads of the Guelphs, possessed great 
influence amongst the confederates. His grandson, Nino 
Visconti, judge of Gallura, came over to Pisa, became 
his rival in power, and succeeded in compelling him, for 
a time, to share the government with him, but soon found 
it prudent to return to Sardinia. Thither he was followed 
by his uncle, whom Ugolino, fearing Nino's ulterior in- 
trigues, sent, not only to occupy the family fiefs, but the 
whole province of Cagliari. Both Ugolino and his grand- 
son, however, having tasted the sweets of command, and 
feeling the mutual injury of divided interests, subse- 
quently became apparent friends in order to regain it; 
till the Count, thinking a favourable opportunity had 
arrived of getting rid of Visconti, left him, as he hoped, 
to the fury of the populace ; but he, perceiving his com- 
plicated danger, also quitted Pisa. The archbishop 
Ubaldus, though head of the Ghibellines, and irritated at 
Ugolino's having murdered a nephew with his own hand, 
nevertheless consented to be proposed as his colleague in 
the government; but the Count haughtily rejected him, 
and the two parties flew to arms. The Ghibellines 



30 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



proving victorious, Ugolino with two of his sons, and 
two of his grandsons, loaded with chains, were immured 
in a tower, and miserably starved to death! 

The struggles of the rival republics were as useless to 
the victors as ruinous to the vanquished; for, about this 
time, Pope Boniface VIII., anxious to confer the island 
of Sicily on Charles of Valois, in the plenitude of his 
power offered J ames of Arragon the investiture of Sar- 
dinia and Corsica as an equivalent. The design of the 
pope was, to give a destructive blow to the power of the 
Ghibellines, by depriving the Pisans of this portion of 
their dominions, and to animate James against his brother 
Frederic, the possessor of Sicily. By this subtle arrange- 
ment, the islands were to be held as fiefs of the see of 
Rome, under an annual tribute of two thousand marks ; 
and for his ready acquiescence in the papal measures, the 
king of Arragon was appointed gonfaloniere of the 
church, and captain-general of her armies by sea and 
land. 

This investiture was confirmed, in 1309, by Clement V., 
but James did not prepare to avail himself of it till 1323, 
when the Pisans, guessing the purport for which the 
Arragonese were fitting out a fleet, made every prepara- 
tion for an approaching conflict; they pardoned all their 
outlaws on condition of their immediately enlisting, and 
reinforced their garrisons in Sardinia. Meanwhile Hugo, 
judge of Arborea, having been heavily taxed and op- 
pressed, declared himself for the new sovereign; and 
hearing of the approach of the republican reinforcements, 



OF SARDINIA. 



31 



determined, in order to be better able to cope with them, 
to massacre all the Pisans in his dominions, before the 
others could arrive. This horrible order being executed 
with such unmerciful cruelty as to include even his own 
servants, he despatched an ambassador to Barcelona to 
urge the immediate departure of the expedition, since he 
had been thus prematurely obliged to declare himself. 
Three transports full of troops were hurried away, 
though the grand armament was detained for several 
weeks. The judge, however, deemed himself sufficiently 
strong to advance as far as Quarto, and from thence to 
blockade Cagliari. On the 13th of June, the Infant Don 
Alphonso arrived on the western coast, and then pro- 
ceeded to Palma, where Hugo, with some of the first 
nobles of the island, repaired to meet him, and tender 
their fealty to his father. 

The rebel, wisely wishing to preserve his own domains 
from the horrors of war, advised the reduction of Iglesias 
as the first operation, and the infant, in accordance with 
this advice, made the necessary arrangements. On the 
6th of J uly, a vigorous assault took place ; yet, owing to 
the spirit of the besieged, and the good state of the 
defences, the besiegers were repulsed with considerable 
loss. On the 26th, the assault being renewed without 
success, Alphonso determined to turn the siege into a 
rigorous blockade ; and, to increase the difficulties of the 
garrison, sought out the channels by which the town was 
supplied with water, and broke them up. But as the 
autumn advanced, the deadly air of the surrounding 



32 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



country became very destructive to the assailants, and 
reduced their army to less than half its original numbers. 
Notwithstanding this affliction, and the intelligence of a 
Pisan fleet being destined for the island, the Infant (who, 
as well as his wife, had nearly fallen victims to the pesti- 
lence) bravely persisted in his measures, until the famished 
garrison, not being allowed to send out their aged and 
their children, intimated a wish, in January 1324, to sur- 
render, provided no succour arrived before the 13th of 
February. They could not hold out, however, longer 
than the 7th of that month, not having a single day's 
subsistence then left. 

The expected Pisan fleet of fifty- two galleys and other 
vessels, under the command of Manfred, appeared shortly 
after, and finding that Iglesias had fallen, the admiral 
bent his course towards Cagliari, which was blockaded 
both by sea and land. Don Alphonso, who was encamped 
on the hills of Bonaria, manned twenty galleys, embarked 
in the capitana, and advancing towards the foe, passed 
within a couple of bow-shots; yet Manfred declined the 
proffered combat, and the prince had the satisfaction of 
preventing the succours from reaching the city. On the 
next day, the Pisans landed at a place called La Madda- 
lena, where, joined by a body of Sards, they commenced 
their march through Decimu, towards the besieged 
capital ; but were again encountered by Alphonso in an 
open field, called Lucocisterna, and after a well-contested 
conflict, in which the Infant's horse was killed under him, 
Manfred sustained a total defeat. This battle, and an 



\ 



OF SARDINIA. 33 

unsuccessful sortie from Cagliari, led to the surrender of 
Sardinia on the following conditions. 1. That the Pisans 
and their property should be respected. 2. That the 
subjects of the republic should acknowledge the crown of 
Arragon while residing in the island, but not be obliged 
to serve out of it. 3. That the castro of Cagliari, and its 
adjacent suburbs of Stampace and Villanova, with the 
port and the lake, should remain in possession of the 
republic, on payment of an annual tribute, as a deed of 
homage. 

It was not likely that affairs would continue long in 
this posture ; the one party naturally regretting its losses, 
and the other intent upon completing its conquest. 
Hostilities were soon recommenced, the Spaniards com- 
plaining, that the inhabitants of Sassari attempted their 
expulsion; that on the departure of Alphonso, the garri- 
son of Cagliari strengthened their fortifications, with an 
evident view of attacking the camp at Bonaria; and that 
no Spaniard could venture to move about unarmed. 
The Pisans, on the other hand, set forth, that some of the 
Cagliaritani, proceeding to Iglesias to claim their pro- 
perty, were plundered and murdered; that the garrison 
of Bonaria obliged all the farmers of the surrounding 
country to bring their corn and other produce to them ; 
and that no vessel was allowed to go to Cagliari, without 
first anchoring off Bonaria, to the utter destruction of 
the Pisan commerce. These and other recriminations 
brought the parties to open warfare ; and, in 1325, the 
entire defeat of Gaspar Doria, in the bay of Cagliari, 

D 



34 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



by Francis Carroso, the admiral of Arragon, left Sardinia 
wholly to the Spaniards. 

About three years after this event, the tranquillity of 
the island was disturbed by some factious Genoese resi- 
dents, who being in possession of Castel Genovese and 
Castel Doria, two strong fortresses on the northern 
shores, made frequent desultory incursions into the adja- 
cent territories. There, in conjunction with Mariano, the 
ambitious judge of Arborea, they took Terranova, Gal- 
telli, and Alghero; blockaded Sassari; and more than once 
threatened the capital itself. The horrors of intestine 
war continued to desolate Sardinia for many years, and 
reduced the Spaniards to great distress, until Peter the 
Ceremonious determined to undertake in person the sup- 
pression of the disaffected. Arriving at Porto Conti, at 
the head of a well-appointed force, on the 21st of June, 
1354, this spirited and politic prince quickly changed 
the face of affairs, and sealed the fate of the Doria fac- 
tion. The following year, he made his public entry into 
Cagliari ; and, on the 15th of April, with a view of re- 
ducing the influence of the more powerful chiefs, and 
balancing their interests, he convoked a general parlia- 
ment of prelates, peers, and commons, under the name of 
Stamenti. By this measure, he established a representa- 
tive system, which rendered the most essential services to 
the country, and which has been continued ever since, 
though it has not latterly shown any decided check to 
the measures of the crown. 

Neither Mariano nor Doria attended this congress in 



OF SARDINIA. 



35 



person, and the arrogance of the former on the occasion, 
brought upon him a further chastisement. The return 
of Peter to Spain, in 1366, was the signal for this subtle 
enemy to intrigue with Urban V. for the royal investiture 
of the island, building his hope on the Pope's indigna- 
tion at a recent seizure of the revenues of ecclesiastical 
non-residents, by the Arragonese. The measures of the 
judge were active, enterprising, and successful, and he 
would probably have accomplished all his objects, had 
not his tyranny alienated the affections of his country- 
men: his death, therefore, by the desolating plague of 
1376, was regarded as a deliverance, both by the Sards 
and the Spaniards. Hugo, with his father's crown, in- 
herited also his policy and his ambition, and was deter- 
mined to establish his sway over the island. The duke 
of Anjou had sent two embassies to this comparatively 
obscure chief, to induce him to carry on the war with 
the Arragonese for their mutual advantage ; but the blunt 
Sard, irritated by the neglect of some points of the first 
treaty, renounced his friendship, and even refused a 
proffered alliance for his only daughter with the son of 
Charles. Such noble, though uncourtly honesty, was 
worthy of success, and his talents were in a fair way of 
gaining it ; when his subjects, disgusted with his rigour 
and cruelty, murdered him and his daughter, in an in- 
surrection at Oristano, in March, 1383. 

After this melancholy sacrifice, all seemed to promise 
peace. Brancaleone Doria himself, who had married 
Eleanor, the daughter of Mariano, offered his services to 

D 2 



i 



36 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



the king of Arragon to bring the rest of the Sards under 
subjection, and a large army was destined for the pur- 
pose. Two new obstacles, however, arose; the first was, 
that the Sards, wishing to become a republic, had pro- 
claimed liberty and equality, and destroyed all the royal 
insignia of the judges; the second, that Eleanor, full as 
ambitious to reign as either her father or brother, and 
much more sagacious, headed a strong party, who warmly 
espoused her cause, and named her son Frederic judge 
of Arborea. Brancaleone being in Spain, was seized as a 
hostage, and sent to Cagliari to treat with his wife, but 
the king's death in 1387 suspended the business. More 
to acquire the character of being just, than from any in- 
clination to an adjustment, Eleanor consented to renew 
the negotiation for peace in 1388, and agreed that the 
claim to Arborea should be referred to the Pope. But as 
this reference could not be made, for two years, owing to 
a schism in the church, and her husband had been in 
the mean time taken under the protection of Genoa, she 
easily found a pretext to recommence hostilities; the more 
so from its being suspected that a large armament, fitting 
out in Catalonia, nominally for Sicily, was intended for 
Sardinia. J oined by all the inhabitants of Gallura, and 
other districts, she possessed herself of the greater part of 
the Spanish fortresses in the Capo di Logudoro. The 
king hastened to send reinforcements to such places as 
he still retained, and finally determined to repair thither 
himself, with a large expedition, but delayed his depar- 
ture, till he was surprised by death, in 1394. 



OF SARDINIA. 



37 



John was succeeded by his brother Martin, king of 
Sicily, who stopped in Sardinia on his way to Spain, 
reinforced Cagliari and Alghero, but endeavoured in vain 
to treat with Eleanor. A new source of affliction now 
desolated the island, from the introduction of the plague, 
which reappeared in 1403, more fatal than ever ; yet the 
Arboreans did not desist from their purpose, even after 
the death of the " Giudicessa" herself, who fell a sacrifice 
to it on the 14th of February ; and her son Mariano, 
for whom all this warfare had been kept up, died also in 
1407, without issue. This remarkable female conse- 
crated her leisure to the happiness of her subjects ; for, 
notwithstanding she made the executive government cen- 
tre entirely in herself, she found time to compile an 
admirable code of laws in the Sard language, called " Sa 
Carta de Logu." It was first promulgated in 1395, and, 
though tinctured with the barbarity of the times, was 
found so replete with equity and discretion, and so ad- 
mirably adapted to the habits and opinions of the Sards, 
as to be adopted all over the island ; and to remain, with 
a few mitigations, in full force to the present day, the 
grand charter of the land*. 

Doria not only took possession of the judicature of 
Arborea, but, with the assistance of Genoa, extended his 
views of dominion to the whole island. The Sards, how- 
ever, disliking him, invited over the Viscount of Nar- 
bonne, husband of Eleanor's sister, Beatrice. In the 



* See extracts from this Code in chap, iii. 



38 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



autumn of 1408, the infant, Don Martin ruler of Sicily, 
indignant at the desperate state of Sardinia, panted to sig- 
nalize himself, and finding the rebels divided under Doria 
and the Viscount, thought it an opportunity of defeating 
them in detail, not to be neglected. The fond father, 
fearing the climate as much as the enemy, sought to dis- 
suade his youthful son from so hazardous an enterprise ; 
but the magnanimous prince being firm in his purpose, 
a summons was given to the nobility of Catalonia, Arra- 
gon, and Valentia, to join the expedition ; and thus a 
powerful army sailed from Barcelona, among whom were 
1100 noble lancers. Meantime Martin ceased not to 
harass Brancaleone and the Viscount, who had united 
against him ; and scarcely had he allowed the reinforce- 
ment a few days of repose after the voyage, when issuing 
from Cagliari, on the 26th of June, 1409, at the head of 
8000 infantry and 3000 cavalry, he went to encamp near 
St. Luri, opposite to the enemy, who were redoubtable 
both from their numbers and experience. A general 
action ensued on the following day, which ended in the 
entire discomfiture of the rebels, 5000 of them remaining 
dead on the field, besides many made prisoners, among 
whom was Doria himself, and the Viscount saved himself 
only by a precipitate flight. But the victorious career 
of the heroic infant was arrested by the " intemperie," 
or marsh fever, which carried him off in four days. On 
this the Viscount took the field again, and though re- 
peatedly worsted, reduced the Spanish government, from 
its paucity of means, to sell the judicature of Oristano 



OF SARDINIA. 



39 



and county of Goceano 3 and to pawn the city of Barce- 
lona and county of Ampurias, to raise money for carrying 
on the war. The dissensions were continued with great 
acrimony till the arrival of the good Alphonso V., who 
obtained the formal cession of the province of Arborea, 
in 1428, on payment of 100,000 florins of gold to the 
young Tiniers, heir of Narbonne, on whom the right of 
succession had devolved. 

The whole island now became incorporated with Arra- 
gon, and, excepting the rebellion and destruction of Ca- 
beddu, Marquis of Oristano, in 1478, it enjoyed profound 
peace and a just administration. In 1492, Ferdinand 
the Catholic established the Inquisition, ordered the ex- 
pulsion of all those Jews who refused to be baptized, 
and their synagogues to be purified and converted into 
churches, under the invocation of La Santa Croce. 
About this time, the Moors making a sudden descent, 
and pillaging the town of Cabras, the Sards applied for 
relief, and several vessels were sent to their assistance ; 
owing, however, to the inefficiency of the Spanish officers, 
the expedition terminated with the loss of three of their 
finest galleys. 

In 1527, the combined fleet of the Holy League, led 
by the renowned Andrea Doria, approached the northern 
shores of the island, and disembarked 4000 troops for the 
attack of Castel Arragonese ; but having landed on the 
east bank of the Coguinas, the progress of thu troops 
was impeded by the difficulty of fording the river. This 
opportunity of strengthening the defences was not lost 



40 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



by the active governor of Logudoro, who had already 
despatched two of his best officers, Jacob and Angelo 
Manca, with artillery and ammunition to reinforce the 
castle. The invaders, finding the place better prepared 
for a siege than they expected, endeavoured to tamper 
with the garrison, asserting that, by surrendering, they 
would but make a just restitution of the Doria property, 
and threatened the utmost rigour in case of being obliged 
to make an assault. These menaces producing no other 
effect than a spirited answer, the operations proceeded 
with vigour. The Mancas, observing the enemy to be 
negligent of the outposts, made a very successful sortie, 
which greatly chagrined Doria, and aware that the fall 
of this fortress would accelerate that of Sassari, he deter- 
mined to exert his utmost efforts for its reduction. But 
his fleet was soon after dispersed by a violent storm, and 
his colleague, dreading another sortie, retreated to the 
town of Sorzo, which, being open and defenceless, had 
been abandoned on the enemy's first approach. Orsini 
now induced Desena, the governor, to quit Sassari, by 
spreading a report that he was going to attack Alghero, 
whereas, having received reinforcements from Doria, he 
rapidly fell upon the former city, and abandoned it to 
unrestrained pillage. Desena and the Sassarese whom he 
had taken with him, enraged at being thus deceived, has- 
tened back to their post, and shutting up every avenue 
to the town by which provisions could be received, re- 
pulsed their several sorties, and reduced them to such 
distress, as to implore a capitulation. To this Desena 



OF SARDINIA. 



41 



would not accede but at the intercession of Doria, when 
the half-starved troops were allowed to march out, and 
regain their ships at Porto Torres. The allied forces 
being thus completely foiled, was an event so grateful to 
Charles V. that on his arrival in the island, at the head 
of his armada for the invasion of Tunis, he rewarded the 
citizens of Sassari with honours and privileges, and the 
Sards remained amongst the most attached of his sub- 
jects. 

The effects of this expedition, however, were not at an 
end, for a severe plague, which was brought by the troops 
from Naples, raged in the Gallura and other parts during 
the whole of the year 1528 ; the city of Sassari alone, 
lost 16,000 of its inhabitants. In 1540, when scarcely 
recovered from this affliction, the harvest failing, occa- 
sioned so dreadful a famine, that throughout Sardinia, 
numbers of people perished from hunger; all the inha- 
bitants being reduced to subsist upon roots, dogs, mice, 
or whatever disgusting food they could procure; and, 
horrid to relate, one woman ate even her own child ! 

During the reigns of Philip II. and III. and through- 
out the subsequent long rule of the Spaniards, few events 
of a public nature occurred in the island: for, rescued 
from being any longer the theatre of war, it sunk into 
languor, only struggling occasionally against the cupidity 
of its triennial Viceroys. The feudal system conferred 
so many privileges on the nobles, that every man of pro- 
perty was anxious to procure a patent of nobility. This 
numerous class, as well as the ecclesiastics, the viceregal 



42 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



court, the members of the Inquisition, and a host of civil 
and military officers, being all exempt from contributing 
to the revenue, the whole burthen fell upon the labouring 
poor. The expense of collection was great, and every 
placeman was so inadequately paid, as to open the road 
to all kinds of abuse; it is not surprising then, that Spain 
found Sardinia an unproductive possession. 

In 1568, an incident occurred in the Low Countries, 
strongly descriptive of the unruly disposition of these 
islanders. Amongst the troops that fought under the 
banners of Count d'Aremberg in Friesland, were some 
Spanish and Sardinian regiments, headed by Gonsalvo 
Brancamonte, These men censured d'Aremberg's cau- 
tious manoeuvres with regard to the Count of Nassau so 
severely, that he determined, against his better judgment, 
to try the issue of a battle. He led his army out, fought 
nobly, and fell with the bravest of his soldiers; while the 
rest, paying for their temerity, were totally defeated, 
and half of them overwhelmed in the marshes, across 
which they had to retreat. The Duke d'Alva, mortified 
at this first check to his arms, marched in person to 
avenge it, and as Nassau's army was in want of supplies, 
easily defeated it, whilst, with his accustomed cruelty, he 
put to the sword all who fell into his hands. The Sards, 
triumphantly passing over the former field of battle, were 
stung with the recollection of their loss, and, to wreak 
their vengeance on the peasants, who they suspected had 
betrayed them, set fire to their village. The houses 
being chiefly of wood, burnt with awful rapidity, and 



OF SARDINIA. 43 

the thirst for revenge increasing with the sight of the 
flames, the adjacent towns were fired also, and an im- 
mense district was desolated, extending from the gulf of 
Dollert to the borders of East Friesland. The Duke 
d'Alva, incensed at so insubordinate an outrage, instantly 
condemned the ringleaders to death, deprived their chief 
and all his officers of their military rank, and condemned 
them and their men to be indiscriminately drafted into 
other regiments. Brancamonte was shortly afterwards 
restored to favour, but the rest of the Sards held a coun- 
cil, and to avoid the impending disgrace, dispersed, and 
individually sought their way home. 

Nothing remarkable appears in the annals until a 
French fleet, commanded by Count Harcourt, entered 
the bay of Oristano, on the 21st of February, 1637, and 
effected a landing about three miles from the town, in 
spite of a tower which continued very troublesome during 
the day. He entered the town, and finding that it had 
been abandoned by its inhabitants, withdrew his troops 
to prevent pillage, leaving only a sufficient guard at the 
gates, to keep the cavalry in check which were hovering 
around. The next day, a body of about a thousand 
horsemen appeared, whom the French engaged and de- 
feated, pursuing them till the following morning, when 
they came up with the main body of the Sards, consist- 
ing of about 3000 cavalry and 1500 infantry. Being in 
a strange country, Harcourt deemed it imprudent to 
attack them, but made an orderly retreat; and, reimbark- 
ing, carried off a large quantity of warlike stores and 



44 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



provisions, which he found at Oristano, then the principal 
naval depot of the Spaniards. 

In 1651, Sardinia was visited by a swarm of locusts, 
that apparently came from Africa, and in such numbers 
as to obscure the light of the sun. These marauders 
totally destroyed all vegetation, even eating the buds of 
the trees, and, in their progress, the rivers became fetid 
with the heaps of dead. In vain it was hoped that either 
the heat of summer, or the rains of autumn, or the cold 
of winter, would put a period to their devastation, for, in 
the following spring, the teeming eggs produced a still 
greater swarm, which again devoured the rising crops. 
At length, towards the end of J une, the despairing far- 
mers were suddenly relieved by the locusts moving in 
immense bodies to the sea-coasts, where they perished. 
A dreadful plague had broken out at Alghero, in May, 
and quickly spread to Sassari, Tempio, and many other 
towns and villages, which it nearly depopulated, continu- 
ing with slight intermissions for four years. In the last 
it desolated Cagliari, and the dead bodies became so nu- 
merous that the " Beccamorti v could not bury them fast 
enough, though they had only to throw them into wells 
and cisterns assigned for the purpose. In the melancholy 
confusion, several instances occurred of people being 
hurled in before life was extinct, one of whom, a mason, 
shrieked dreadfully, but in vain, while tumbling into one 
of these horrible receptacles. At length, say the archives, 
through the intercession of St. Effisius and the Madonna 
of Bonaria, the plague was arrested, and totally ceasing 



OF SARDINIA. 



'45 



in October, 1656, Te Deum was unanimously and joy- 
fully celebrated. 

The tranquillity of the island was disturbed in the 
reign of Charles II. by an atrocious occurrence, which, 
though rather of an individual than a national nature, 
acquired considerable political importance in its conse- 
quences. It appears that Francesca, Marchioness of 
Laconi, having an illicit commerce with Don S. Ayme- 
rich, induced him to assassinate her husband, and then 
propagated a report of the Marquis of Camarassa having 
committed the deed, which, as the deceased had recently 
been deputed to Madrid by the Stamen ti, to complain of 
the Viceroy's exactions, easily obtained belief. The 
guilty paramours succeeded in deluding, amongst others, 
the Marquis of Zea and the Knights Cao, Portoghese, 
and Grisona, relations of the Marquis of Laconi, and 
hired some " sicari," or murderers, to waylay and shoot 
the- Viceroy. Accordingly, they all met at one of their 
dwellings, and as he was returning from his devotions in 
the evening of the 21st of July, 1668, these wretches ex- 
ecuted the treacherous commission through the windows, 
with such unerring diligence, that he fell under no less 
than nineteen wounds. From the suddenness of the 
attack, the guards thought only of closing the castle 
gates; but the assassins rushing forth, soon put them to 
flight, and while some remained for a time to defend the 
guilty Francesca, others barricadoed themselves in a con- 
vent outside the town, till finding all endeavours to excite 
a popular commotion were vain, they mostly retired to the 



46 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



northern parts of the island. On the arrival of the new 
viceroy, the Duke of S. Giovanni, the transaction was 
investigated by the supreme court, and a decree promul- 
gated declaring all the fugitives guilty of high treason, 
offering large rewards for their apprehension, dead or 
alive, and ordering the confiscation of their property. 
By the terms of their outlawry, it was prohibited to afford 
them fire or water, and their houses were to be rased, 
especially the one from which the fatal shots proceeded, 
the site of which was to be ploughed, strewed with salt, 
and an inscription of infamy erected upon it. These 
vigorous measures frightening all the accomplices, they 
combated every difficulty in order to quit Sardinia, and 
at length met at Nice. Here their atrocious lives were 
passed in misery and odium , until a French fleet arrived, 
on which they claimed the protection of his Most Christian 
Majesty, who was then at war with Spain. The admiral 
undertook to intercede for them, provided they would 
exert their interest in gaining the island for his master, 
to which they readily assented, and wrote to their friends 
announcing their immediate return, and desiring them to 
collect partisans. But it happened that Don Giacomo 
Olivesi, a commissary of the viceroy, being at Naples, 
accidentally heard that Cao was then at Rome, disguised 
as a monk, on his way to Cagliari to prepare the faction. 
Olivesi found him out, and so completely ingratiated 
himself with the unsuspecting knight as to be invited to 
accompany him to the appointed rendezvous. Accord- 
ingly they all met at Vignola, a port of the Gallura, in 



OF SARDINIA. 47 

May, 1671 5 and thence proceeded all together to Rossa, a 
rocky islet, near Castel Arragonese, where having supped 
in the greatest harmony and good faith, they retired to 
rest. No sooner, however, had the criminals fallen asleep, 
than Olivesi and his myrmidons set upon them, secured 
the marquis, and butchered the three knights. With 
the heads of the slain carried on a trident, and followed 
by Zea and his servant in bonds, the commissary passed 
triumphantly through Sassari, Alghero, and Oristano, to 
Cagliari, where, on the 15th of June, the marquis was 
brought to the scaffold and beheaded, while his servant 
was made to undergo a more cruel and ignominious death. 
Francesca, the guilty cause of this tragedy, who had 
remained at Nice with her infant son, now repenting of 
her crimes, retired into a convent, and devoted the rest 
of her life to such earnest penance and devotion, as to 
acquire general commiseration. 

Sardinia continued subject to the crown of Spain till 
the Succession War, when the greater part of the natives 
of the Gallura declared themselves for Charles III., and 
lighted the flames of a civil war. An English fleet of 
forty sail, under Sir John Leake, soon appeared off Ter- 
ranova, and having landed some Austrian troops to co- 
operate with their partisans, proceeded to Cagliari, and 
anchored before it on the 12th of August, 1708. The 
Marquis of Jamaica, the viceroy, thinking it would be 
temerity to hold out with his deficient means against 
such an armament, is said to have determined to surren- 
der after a few shells had been thrown pro forma. 



48 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



Obtaining, therefore, very favourable conditions, he eva- 
cuated the castle, and such was his confidence in the 
known honour of an Englishman, that he actually em- 
barked on board the admiral's ship before the treaty was 
signed. This event is somewhat differently described in 
the official letter from Sir John Norris, the second in 
command, to the Earl of Manchester; it is inserted in 
Cole's Memoirs of Affairs of State, p. 547, and the 
following is an extract : — 

" We anchored before the town on the 3d instant, in 
the afternoon, and sent a summons to the vice-king, to 
render the town and kingdom of Sardinia to the obe- 
dience of King Charles, with a letter to the burghers to 
assure them of their effects and ancient privileges, in case 
they made their said obedience. The officer sent had 
leave to wait four hours for an answer, if required; at 
which time, being night, he returned, with answer from 
the vice-king, that it was so late that he could not that 
night get all the government together, but would do it 
in the morning, and send their answers. We judged it 
best to keep on the fright and cause no delay, and 
that instant began bombarding, and hove that night 
120 shells into the town, and landed our men at the 
point of day ; and as soon as it was daylight the vice-king 
sent off a flag of truce, to desire to capitulate; after 
which the mob took possession of the gates, and delivered 
them up to us. Thus we have got a city much stronger 
than Barcelona, and that has 87 brass cannon mounted, 
and the whole island, without the loss of a man. In our 



OF SARDINIA. 



49 



capitulation we obliged them to furnish Catalonia imme- 
diately with 1400 tons of corn, and to-morrow it will sail 
for Catalonia, it being embarked in our transports." 

The Marquis d'Alconzel, better known by his former 
title of Count Cifuentes, who was constituted Viceroy and 
Captain-general, had no sooner become possessed of Ca- 
gliari by virtue of the capitulation, than he took measures 
for the reduction of the rest of the island, in which he was 
zealously supported by his brother, the Count of Monte 
Santo, and Don Francesco Pes, of Tempio *". Bacallar 
earnestly endeavoured to support the interests of Philip, 
in the mountains of the Gallura, but after a check from 
Pes was obliged to fly, and Charles III. was everywhere 
acknowledged. An attempt of the Duke of Tursis, in 
1710, to retake Sardinia, was defeated by Admiral Norris, 
and it was, at length, allotted to the emperor by the 
treaty of Utrecht. 

After the fall of Barcelona, and the cruel sacrifice of 
the Catalan cause, (an event of eternal dishonour to the 
English cabinet,) Philip, urged by the crafty Alberoni, 
established a powerful marine, under pretence of suc- 
couring the Venetians against Sultan Achmet. The 
Turks, at this moment, having overrun the Morea, 
threatened Venice, and advanced into Germany. The 
Pope was so alarmed at their progress, that when he 
granted the " indulto," or brief, to the king of Spain, 

* A relation of Don Gavino Pes, whose addresses to Time, and 
to himself in old age, with other poems, are greatly admired in 
the Gallura. 

E 



50 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



to exact a tenth of the ecclesiastical revenues, he extorted 
an express promise, that nothing hostile should be at- 
tempted against the emperor during the war with the 
infidels." Regardless, however, of his plighted word, 
Philip was resolved to make an attack on Sardinia ; and 
a well-appointed squadron of men of war, with a large 
land force, under the Marquis de Lede, arrived at Ca- 
gliari on the 22d of August, 1717. Upwards of 8000 
men were immediately disembarked in the bay of Quartu, 
while the ships, proceeding nearer to the town, landed the 
artillery and ammunition necessary for the siege. The 
Marquis de Rubi, who had distinguished himself with 
the unhappy Catalans, though surprised by the unex- 
pected and unprincipled invasion, was determined to 
make an obstinate resistance. The garrison of Cagliari 
being weak, he sought other means of annoying the 
enemy ; and with this view issued an edict prohibiting the 
furnishing of any sustenance to the invaders under pain 
of death, and ordering every head of a family to be in 
readiness to poison his water cistern. The Marquis de 
Lede, in his turn, circulated an address to the inhabit- 
ants, more efficacious than the viceroy's, inasmuch as it 
proffered rewards instead of threatening punishment, by 
stating that the Sards were to be restored to their ancient 
privileges; that a general amnesty would be granted; and 
that all supplies should be punctually paid for. De 
Rubi held out in the suburbs till they were no longer 
tenable, and then retired into the castle ; but observing 
a convoy laden with provisions and stores join the enemy, 



OF SARDINIA. 



51 



he gave up the hope of successful resistance : yet, to 
deprive his antagonist of the satisfaction of taking him, 
he secretly quitted CagliarL In consequence of these 
reinforcements, the besiegers pushed their operations with 
such increased vigour, that on the last day of September 
the garrison begged to capitulate. Meantime, on dis- 
covering the escape of the viceroy, the Count of Pezuela 
had been despatched in pursuit with a strong detachment 
of dragoons, and overtaking him and his small party of 
cavalry at Siamanna, an obstinate battle ensued, when De 
R-ubi, being severely wounded, and seeing half his men 
killed, fled into the wilds of a forest. Hoping to arrive 
at Alghero in time to provide for its defence, he took the 
most unfrequented paths in the disguise of a peasant, 
and gained the fortress. But understanding that, since 
the fall of Cagliari, Sassari and most of the other towns 
in the kingdom had opened their gates to the invaders^ 
the viceroy again sought his personal safety, and toge- 
ther with some noblemen who had compromised them- 
selves in favour of Austria, retired to Genoa. The con- 
sequence, of course, was the surrender of Alghero, and 
thus, to the astonishment of all Europe, the Marquis de 
Lede regained the whole of Sardinia in less than two 
months. 

Inflated with this success, and pretending to fear that 
Victor Amadeus was leaguing with the Emperor against 
Spain, Alberoni fitted out another powerful fleet, and 
ordered the Marquis de Lede to recruit his troops with 
Sards, and endeavour to recover Sicily also. The attempt 

E 2 



52 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



to accomplish this, drew down on the expedition the 
signal chastisement which it received in August, 1718, 
from Sir George Byng; a blow which nearly ruined the 
Spanish navy. These infractions of the treaty of Utrecht 
aroused general indignation; and, assailed by the qua- 
druple alliance, Philip was soon glad to come to terms, 
after many mortifications, and immense charges, by re- 
nouncing his conquests, and delivering the proud cardinal 
into the hands of the French. On the 8th of August, 
1720, by the treaty of London, Sardinia again became 
the property of Charles, and was ceded by him the same 
day to Victor Amadeus in exchange for Sicily. After 
this event, notwithstanding the wars that agitated the 
rest of Europe, the island experienced a peaceable aera of 
seventy years, during which the members of the house 
of Savoy, but especially Charles Emmanuel, made the 
utmost exertions to increase the resources, and ameliorate 
the condition of the people. The national and local laws 
were confirmed, the abuses of .the civil administration 
were diminished, and the police was rendered so efficient, 
that many of the gangs of banditti were destroyed. 
Public education was favoured by the revival of the uni- 
versities of Cagliari and Sassari, and by the institution 
of seminaries and colleges in various towns. For the 
encouragement of agriculture the Monti Nummarii* and 
Monti Frumentarii # were founded ; and the commercial 
interests were placed on a firmer foundation, by the ap- 



* For an explanation of these terms, see Chap. II. 



OF SARDINIA. 



53 



pointment of tribunals in Cagliari and Sassari, under the 
name of Magistrate del Consolato. During this period 
also, the Post-office and Board of Health were esta- 
blished, as well as several hospitals and other charities. 

The death of Charles Emmanuel, and consequent re- 
tirement of his enlightened minister, Count Bogino, sus- 
pending the rapid march of improvement, led to the 
employment of Piedmontese in most of the lucrative 
offices, and to other abuses. Instead of the sagacity 
and talent recently shown at Turin, an inconsistent and 
often imbecile conduct was substituted, and the prudent 
economy of the late king was succeeded by so lavish an 
expenditure, that finding the sums raised by the sale of 
the J esuits' property, the creation of a paper medium, 
and various other resources, insufficient to prevent the 
increase of debt, Victor Amadeus actually opened a treaty 
with the Empress of Russia, for the sale of Sardinia. 
But in all her schemes of establishments in the Mediter- 
ranean, the crafty Catherine was vigilantly counteracted 
by the courts of Versailles and Madrid. 

Affairs were in this state when the anarchy of the 
French revolution broke out, and, in the rage of ag- 
gression, the conquest of Sardinia was represented to 
the National Convention as a very easy enterprise. 
Without any declaration of war, a fleet was ordered 
for the purpose, but a delay of four months in its 
equipment gave the Sards time to prepare for its re- 
ception. The Stamenti were called, and immediately 
voted 4000 volunteer infantry and 6000 cavalry, at their 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



own expense; whilst prayers and processions were cele- 
brated throughout the island, to excite the public mind 
against the sacrilegious invaders. The forts, however, 
were deficient in guns; there were only three battalions 
of regular troops, and one company of artillery, distri* 
buted among the various fortified places ; and the govern- 
ment, fearing to attract the thunder-cloud, by any ma- 
nifestation of expecting it, was very tardy in its military 
preparations. 

On the 21st of December, 1792, the French fleet, 
amounting to thirty-six sail, reached the bay of Cagliari; 
but, say the Sards, " this was precisely the day of St. 
Thomas the Apostle, the especial protector of our coasts 
and towers, and the miracle he worked was so evident, 
that the very Protestants in the garrison, for example, 
Colonel Schmidt and Captain Leopaker, could not but ac- 
knowledge it P Before the ships could anchor, there arose 
so furious a hurricane, that the whole fleet was dispersed, 
and many" of the transports foundered. Truguet, the 
admiral, found shelter in the gulf of Palmas with eleven 
sail of men of war, and remained there nearly a month, 
during which time he took the islands of St. Antioco and 
St. Pietro. But all his marauding attempts on the main- 
land were repulsed ; for the Sards, from behind the sand- 
hills, invariably brought down a man at every shot, and 
escaped themselves almost without loss. 

With the return of fine weather, the fleet re-assembled, 
and entered the bay of Cagliari on the 22d of January, 
1793 ; but this again being a grand day of the festival 



OF SARDINIA. 



55 



of St. Effisius, the patron of the city, created a great 
enthusiasm amongst the inhabitants, and the procession 
was attended by more people than] ever was known be- 
fore ; private feuds were forgotten in the common danger, 
pardon was sent to the outlaws, and all classes flocked to 
the churches to receive the sacrament. The French, 
having taken up a station to the westward, out of gun- 
shot of the town and forts, sent a detachment of twenty 
men and an officer, with the National flag, to demand 
the surrender of the place"; but they were fired at by the 
volunteers on the mole, and the drummer and sixteen 
men were killed, before the boat could gain shelter behind 
a Swedish vessel, lying at anchor. Truguet, finding his 
attempts at negotiation vain, after three days' unaccount- 
able inactivity, commenced a heavy fire on the town from 
the line-of-battle ships and bomb -vessels, but with very 
little effect. Yet the red-hot shot from the batteries 
set one of his two-deckers on fire, and greatly damaged 
the fleet, which now amounted to fourteen sail of the line, 
twenty-three frigates and brigs, forty-one transports, and 
five gunboats. 

On the 11th of February, a squadron of men of war 
and transports removed to the bay of Quartu, and on the 
following day, 1200 men were landed with the intention 
of occupying the heights to the eastward of Cagliari, 
but being encountered by a detachment of cavalry, they 
retreated under the protection of their ships. And a des- 
perate attempt on the tower of Cala-mosche and the little 
fort that commands the Lazzaretto, proved equally in- 



m 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



effectual. A general attack was ordered on the 15th * 
and* at six o 1 clock in the morning, five sail of the line 
and a frigate opened a tremendous cannonade on the 
town, and continued it throughout the day; while the 
squadron at Cala-mosche renewed its attack, and the ad- 
miral, under sail, alternately joining the one and the other 
division, sent his shot wherever he thought they would 
be most destructive. At the same time, nearly 5000 
troops, who were landed near the mouth of the river of 
Quartu, having thrown up intrenchments by four p. m. 
marched in two divisions, one to take possession of 
Quartu, the other to the rear of the Lazzaretto, The 
column intended for the first service advanced with drums 
beating and colours flying, expecting to be received with 
open arms, as manifestos of liberty and fraternity in the 
Sard language, had been previously sent to the Vicar 
for distribution. But just as they reached the outskirts 
of the village, a brisk discharge of grape-shot (from a 
battery hastily formed by throwing an intrenchment 
around a threshing-floor) undeceiving them, they made 
a precipitate and disgraceful retreat to their lines. The 
other column, by the evening, had nearly reached the 
plain of Gluik, where the Sards were posted with about 
500 infantry and 200 cavalry ; and giving them the con- 
tents of their guns, rushed upon them with such spirit, 
that numbers of the enemy, struck by a panic, threw 
away their arms and fled, while many, in the darkness 
and confusion, fired upon each other. The result of the 
affair was upwards of 300 Frenchmen killed and 100 



OF SARDINIA. 



57 



taken prisoners; a rich booty in muskets, accoutrements, 
and camp implements remained for the peasants, who 
behaved, however, with barbarous ferocity, and in their 
indignation at the unprovoked invasion, severed the limbs 
of the slain, and bore them about in triumph. Truguet 
furiously bombarded the town on that day and the next, 
but still the fire was warmly and effectually returned 
from the forts. 

On the 17th of the same month, another gale of wind 
sprung up, accompanied with vivid lightning and torrents 
of rain, which occasioned the loss of the Leopard, an 
eighty-gun ship, with several smaller vessels, and greatly 
damaged the whole fleet ; in consequence of which, when 
the tempest abated, the army was reimbarked, and this 
luckless and expensive enterprise abandoned. On quit- 
ting Cagliari, the fleet again entered the gulf of Palmas, 
to confirm the conquest of St. Pietro and St. Antioco, 
and then sailed for Toulon, assigning the pressure of 
affairs in France as an excuse for so disgraceful a retreat. 
The two islets remained in the possession of the enemy 
till the 25th of May, when a Spanish fleet of twenty-three 
sail of the line arrived there, on which, the garrison, con- 
sisting of 800 men, surrendered ; and of the two frigates 
left for their protection, one was taken whilst endeavour- 
ing to make her escape, and the other was set on fire by 
her crew. 

The French attempted a diversion on the northern 
coast, by sending a division from Corsica, which anchored 
at Le Tigge, off Maddalena, on the 22d of February, 



58 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



1793, for the purpose of taking possession of the Inter- 
mediate islands ; but though it obtained some partial suc- 
cess, the spirited resistance of the natives soon drove the 
enemy off, with the loss of 200 men, their artillery, and 
stores. The incident, though trifling in itself, is remark- 
able from this having been the scene of the first actual 
service of Napoleon Buonaparte, whose actions constitute 
such a prominent feature in the history of the present 
age. Crafty and vigilant, enterprising and inflexible, he 
was eminently qualified for a career of military adven- 
ture : but, though gifted with extraordinary talents, it 
should be remembered that he owed more to the already 
established current of opinion, than to his own genius ; 
for the grand contest between the government and the 
people of France was decided ; whilst the soldiers whom 
he commanded, long accounted the best in Europe, had 
been infinitely improved by a revolutionary enthusiasm 
which he had not excited, and a system of tactics which 
he had not introduced. Unlike Caesar, who created the 
divisions on which he founded his empire, Napoleon ob- 
tained power in a country torn by faction, and sighing 
for repose; while those whom he was to supplant, unlike 
such able antagonists as Pompey, Cato, and Cicero, were 
rulers degraded by the grossest corruption at home, and 
the most disgraceful mismanagement abroad. It was 
under such fostering circumstances, and with these fa- 
vourable elements, that he conceived most magnificent 
projects, yet often very impolitic, from his confounding 
real and tangible interests with the visionary speculations 



OF SARDINIA. 



59 



of optimists. Steadily pursuing his ends, without ever 
hesitating as to means, and being unshackled by moral 
or religious scruples, Ms conceptions were rapidly exe- 
cuted. A series of splendid victories, with an artful 
management of circumstances, elevated him to a throne, 
more despotic than the one from which the French nation 
had by such terrific sacrifices been liberated ; and the 
exaltation was consecrated by the pontiff of the triple 
crown, and honoured by a union with a daughter of the 
Caesars. Yet after so singular a march of successful 
ambition, his tyranny, selfishness, and insatiable vanity 
dashed the sceptre from his hand; and with his downfal, 
the scenes of guilt, and blood., and rapine, which had 
desolated Europe for a quarter of a century, passed away 
like a frightful dream ! 

The king of Sardinia, delighted with his insular sub- 
jects for having bravely repelled the French invasion, in- 
vited them to ask for whatever could forward their real 
welfare. The Sards were so moderate as to h'mit them- 
selves to the five following requests : 1. The convocation 
of the Stain enti : 2. The confirmation of their laws, cus- 
toms, and privileges : 3. The exclusive right of holding 
the national offices : 4. The establishment of a council, 
instead of a secretary of state, to advise the viceroy : 5. 
Permission to send a minister to reside at the court of 
Turin. These were presented to his majesty by six de- 
puties from the Stamenti, who were at first favourably 
received, but, after several evasive answers from the mi- 
nister, had the mortification to find, that a flat refusal 



60 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



to their demands was sent by the common post to the 
island, there to be promulgated by the viceroy. 

Irritated by this contemptuous treatment, and still 
more so by that of the Piedmontese placemen, and an ill 
timed threat to disarm them, the Sards became manifestly 
inclined to rebel. On the 28th of April, 1794, two citi- 
zens being arrested as fomenters of an insurrection, the 
public displeasure rose so high, that the viceroy closed 
the city gates, doubled the guards, and pointed the guns 
of the castle on the suburbs. But the enraged populace, 
far from being daunted by these measures, resorted to 
arms, forced the gates, released the two citizens, and be- 
sieged the viceroy in his palace. Their object, however, 
being partly gained, the Marquis of Laconi and Colonel 
Schmidt succeeded in persuading them to return to their 
allegiance, stipulating that the viceroy and all the Pied- 
montese should immediately return to the continent, and 
the reins of government be confided, in the interim, to the 
native members of the Royal Audience, and the Stamenti, 
according to the old constitution of the island. The 
king, who was not in a condition to cope with discontented 
subjects, confirmed the new form of government, until the 
appointment of another viceroy, though he reserved his 
final decision till the account of the late events, by the 
Stamenti, could be verified. 

Tranquillity appeared to be gradually returning, when 
an alarm was spread, that the king had filled up four of 
the principal appointments in the island, which was a 
dereliction of the rights of the Stamenti, though these 



OF SARDINIA. 



6i 



officers happened to be Sards. The court firmly sus- 
tained its nomination ; but, as it recognised the national 
privilege of proposing the candidates for a number of 
other situations, the people were satisfied, and received 
Vivalda, the viceroy, and the newly-appointed persons, 
with acclamation. The conduct of these officers, how- 
ever, was not calculated to allay the popular ferment ; 
and the king again haughtily usurping the disputed 
nominations, it could no longer be repressed. The 
people being aware that the Marquis Planargia, the 
military commander-in-chief, and Cavalier Pitzolu, the 
intendant-general, had advised these measures, rose on 
the 6th of July, 1795, and suddenly fell, first on the 
marquis, who allowed himself to be seized without making 
any resistance; and then on Pitzolu, who had armed his 
servants, and attempting to defend himself, was killed. 
The general, however, did not long survive him ; for, 
after a close confinement in the Elephant's tower, he 
was dragged forth on the 22nd, and in spite of the vice- 
roy's intercession, shot in the castle square. These pro- 
ceedings were more sanguinary than was desired by the 
principal patriots. A humble remonstrance was, there- 
fore, sent to Turin, endeavouring at the same time to 
exculpate in some measure the violence of the people ; 
and aware of the difficulty of obtaining pardon, the 
Archbishop of Cagliari was despatched to Rome, where 
he gained the powerful intercession of his holiness. His 
majesty was induced thereupon to investigate the matter 
thoroughly ; and persuaded that the Sards had suffered 



62 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



great oppression, he granted by a diploma, dated the 
8th of June, 1796, a general, act of oblivion on the late 
events, the ratification of their laws, customs, and pri- 
vileges, and the exclusion of foreigners from all public 
situations, except that of viceroy. 

In 1798, Charles Emmanuel IV., bullied by the French 
authorities, insulted by the Genoese, and braved by his 
own rebellious subjects, was obliged to comply with the 
requisition of the Directory, and admit his rapacious 
enemies into the strongest fortresses of his kingdom. 
Further demands finally extorted an abdication of his 
continental dominions; and hurrying to Leghorn, he 
gladly received the deputies from the Stamenti of Sar- 
dinia, assuring him of the entire devotion of the Sards. 
Convoyed by an English frigate, the royal family, with 
their suite, arrived at Cagliari the 3rd of March, 1799, 
and were welcomed with enthusiastic affection. The 
successes of Suwarrow, however, induced his majesty to 
return to the continent ; but hearing, on his arrival in 
Tuscany, of the battle of Marengo, the unfortunate 
prince remained in the south of Italy. His queen, Clo- 
tilda, sister of Louis XVI., (who had been his only com- 
fort during the persecutions and insults he had received,) 
dying in March, 1802, he was inconsolable at her loss, and 
abdicated what he truly called his " crown of thorns," in 
favour of his brother, the Duke of Aosta. He continued 
to reside in great privacy at Rome, where he died in 
1819, after having been afflicted with total blindness 
during the latter years of his unhappy life. 



OF SARDINIA. 



63 



Victor Emmanuel remained in Italy, in the hope of 
regaining his continental dominions through the British 
cabinet; but the peace of Amiens being broken, (and 
therefore aptly compared to a rainbow between two 
squalls,) the French advanced to Naples, which obliged 
him to embark for Sardinia, where he arrived on the 17th 
of February, 1806. Secured from sudden attacks by 
his alliance with England, the king devoted his time to 
organizing the forces of the island, improving the admi- 
nistration, and encouraging agriculture. An attempt 
was also made to correct the principal vice of the island, 
by disarming the natives, and other salutary measures ; 
but the means at the king's disposal were necessarily 
limited, and the taxes or donations raised for carrying so 
many objects into execution, were severely felt by a 
people under feudal tenure. The page of history shows 
the absolute necessity of approaching great questions 
with prudence, and that gradual reforms are more likely 
to prove beneficial and lasting than sudden changes; it is, 
therefore, rather a matter of regret than surprise, that 
some of the monarch's best intentions met with a strong 
counteraction. On the memorable fall of Napoleon, Vic- 
tor Emmanuel departed for Piedmont, where, in 1821, 
chagrined at the insurrection of the Constitutionalists, 
he also abdicated the throne in favour of his brother, 
Charles Felix, the present reigning sovereign. This mild 
prince, having been a long [time viceroy of the island, 
established the Agrarian Society, and the Museum of 
Antiquities and Natural History at Cagliari. He also 



64 



POLITICAL HISTORY 



planned the great central road through the island, and is 
deservedly popular with his insular subjects. 

It is well known that the monarchs of Sardinia bear 
close affinity with our own ; and as the protecting shield 
of Great Britain has already been stated to have been 
displayed in defence of their throne, it may not be im- 
proper to show in what manner the two royal families 
are allied : — 

Charles the First, King of = Mary, daughter of Henry- 



Great Britain, France, 
and Ireland. 



the Fourth, King of 
France. 



Henrietta-Maria, of Great Britain, the — Philip, Duke of 
fourth and youngest daughter of King | Orleans. 
Charles the First. 



T 



Philip-Charles, Maria-Aloisia, Anna-Maria, 

Duke of Valois. Queen of Spain. Duchess of Savoy. 



OF SARDINIA. 



65 



Chapter II. 
PRODUCE AND RESOURCES OF SARDINIA. 

Sardinia, geographically considered, is singularly fa- 
voured by its climate and position ; and its resources in 
agriculture, mines, and fisheries, are sufficiently abundant 
to have elevated it to the greatest prosperity and opu- 
lence. Why its present state does not correspond with 
these advantages must be attributed, it may fairly be pre- 
sumed, to misgovernment, and its usual consequences, im- 
perfect cultivation, and a deficient population. The prin- 
cipal and, indeed, the only reason hitherto adduced for 
this degradation has been, the insalubrity of the air : — 
this, however, although operating in many districts, is 
partly the result of neglect, and appears insufficient 
for such an effect. I should, therefore, consider the 
question to rest rather on moral than on physical agency , 
and am persuaded that investigations of the local peculia- 
rities should be accompanied by an examination of the 
history and habits of the natives. 

This island is in the form of a parallelogram, and is 
upwards of 140 nautical miles in length from north to 
south, or rather from Longo-Sardo to Cape Spartivento, 
with an average breadth of 60, Until I had myself 

F 



66 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



established this admeasurement, I considered Sicily, from 
a very prevailing error, as the largest of the Mediterra- 
nean islands ; and, though the difference is trifling, I now 
subscribe to the assertion of that very early hydrographer 
Scylax, who is somewhat technically called, by my vener- 
able friend Major Rennell, 64 the Pilot and who, accord- 
ing to Cluverius, says, c< Maxima est Sardinia, secunda 
Sicilia, tertia Creta, quarta Cyprus, quinta Eubcea, sexta 
Corsica, septima Lesbus." 

It is divided into two provinces^ the Capo di Sopra, 
and the Capo di Sotto, by an irregular line commencing at 
the tower of Orfanopuddu on the west coast, and carried 
by Bonarcado and Ollolai, over the Corno di Bue to the 
east coast. The former is the most hilly, the latter consi- 
derably the largest ; but both of them contain mountains, 
lakes, rivers, cascades, and other beautiful features of 
landscape, in all the variety of picturesque composition. 
These divisions are also denominated Capo di Sassari 
and Capo di Cagliari, and each consists of two of the 
ancient judicatures : the first, those of Torres and Gal- 
ium; the second, those of Arborea and Cagliari. They 
were formerly divided into fifteen prefectures, which, in 
1821, were condensed into ten, viz. Cagliari, Busachi, 
Iglesias, Isili, Lanusei, Nuoro, Sassari, Alghero, Cu- 
glieri, and Ozieri ; and these are subdivided into thirty- 
two districts. 

The highest mountains in the northern division are 
those of Limbarra, Aggius, Nurra, Sassu, Cuglieri, and 
St. Lussurgiu ; and those of Barbargia, Aritzu, Sarrabus, 



OF SARDINIA. 



67 



Budui, and Sulcis in the southern. The range extending 
from Cape Marargiu, near Bosa, by the Goceano to the 
eastward, were anciently called the u Menomeni" from 
the supposition that their height and continuity obstructed 
the northerly winds, or " secche" and thereby caused 
the u Intemperie," whence they still retain the name of 
" Insani" though the attribute is confessedly undeserved. 
The general elevation of these mountains is from one to 
three thousand feet ; but the peak of Limbarra is 3686 
feet, and that of Genargentu 5276, an altitude which 
enables the people of Aritzu to trade in snow, for the 
consumption of the capital. 

The most extensive plains are those of Ozieri, Mela, 
St. Lazzaro, Ottana, Giavesu, Padrogianu, Liscia, An- 
glona, Sassari, Coguinas, Siliqua, Orosei, and Cagliari. 
These fruitful tracts, of which the larger are termed 
66 Campidani? and the secondary " Campi*" are watered 
by numerous small streams, the principal of which are 
the Tirsi, the Coguinas, the Flumendosa, the Temus, 
and the Mannu. Besides the space occupied by lakes, 
marshes, and torrents, there are large sandy or stony dis- 
tricts, called " Macchie" which amount, in the aggre- 
gate, to more than a third of the island : a similar extent 
may be assigned to forests and pastures ; and the remain- 
der (estimated at five millions and a half of starelli of 
land) is laid out in corn-fields, vineyards, olive-grounds, 
orchards, and gardens, for the subsistence of its popula- 

* The large plain between Cagliari and Oristano is usually 
known and spoken of as " the Campidano" without further spe- 
cification. 

F 2 



68 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



tion of 480,000 souls. About one million of these sta- 
relli, or 800,000 acres, are allotted for the growth of corn, 
which, under the present system of agriculture, produces 
a return of only seven or eight for one, although in some 
favoured districts, as Traxentu and Nora, the average is 
from fifteen to twenty, which must be looked on, how- 
ever, rather as exceptions than customary products. As 
a starello of wheat yields about eighty Sardinian pounds 
of bread, it seems that if this portion was diligently cul- 
tivated, it would fully support three times the present 
number of inhabitants, besides affording a considerable 
export. This would realize the 4C Sardinia, insula mag- 
nitudine et multitudine hominum, et omnium fructuum 
genere prsestans," of Polybius, and enrich both the go- 
vernment and the people. But, for many ages, the island 
has had a positive check to her population in the civil 
wars, and a preventive one in the lingering feudal habits ; 
and although mere numbers do not indicate the power of 
a country, unless there be a proportionate measure of 
active industry, it must be admitted that here, the popu- 
lation is below the means requisite for agriculture, manu- 
factures, or commerce. 

An examination of the cliffs of Longo Sardo, and of 
Bonifacio on the opposite coast, satisfactorily proves that 
the two islands were formerly united, and that the inter- 
vening strait has been formed by a subsidence of the 
strata. Sardinia, however, though apparently a conti- 
nuation of Corsica, is essentially different, both in aspect 
and produce, being much lower, more diversified, more 



OF SARDINIA. 



69 



fertile, and of greater mineralogical variety. The prin- 
cipal chain of primitive mountains trends from north to 
south, extending through the districts of Gallura, Ogli- 
astra, Barbargia, and Budui, along the whole eastern side 
of the island, and constituting its chief mineralogical and 
geological character : this range consists of granite, with 
ramifications of schistus, and large masses of quartz, of 
mica, and of felspar. To the S.W. are the mountains 
of Sulcis, consisting of granite and primitive limestone ; 
while to the N.W. is the Nurra range, composed of gra- 
nite, schistus, and limestone. A vast tertiary plain 
extends between Cagliari and Oristano, and most of the 
remaining space between the elevations just mentioned, 
is occupied by a line of extinct volcanoes ; with their lavas, 
called 66 giarre^ by the natives, often reposing on large 
tracts of recent formation, as at Sardara, Padria, Ploaghe, 
and other places. The volcanic district commences in the 
vicinity of Monastir, runs between Nurri and Sardara, 
embraces Ales, Milis, and St. Lussurgiu, where the phlae- 
grean evidences are particularly abundant; thence extends 
from the centre of the island to the seashore on the west ; 
and stretching through Macomer, Bonorva, and Codron- 
gianus to Castel Sardo, forms precipices on the northern 
seashore. The effects of volcanic action are visible, also, 
at St. Antioco, St. Pietro, Castel Massargiu, and Siliqua, 
showing that Sardinia has been widely ravaged by inter- 
nal fires, though too remotely to conjecture at what 
period. Fields, as they may be termed, of trap and 
fragments of pitchstone, are frequently met with, many 



70 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



reposing on limestone strata ; others, tending fast to de- 
composition, are incorporated with an earth formed of 
comminuted lava ; but no pumices have, I believe, been 
yet found. Vestiges of the craters from whence the de- 
vastating streams were ejected, are numerous, though 
generally ill defined. The most decided one which I 
met with, is a little to the southward of Queremula, near 
the plain of Giavesu. This, from its unbroken conical 
shape and fine red ashes, bears a very recent aspect of 
explosion, especially as the whole country around consists 
of slaggy lava, rugged scorias, obsidian, and indurated 
pozzolana, with large hills of porphyritic tufa towards 
Bonorva, lying over calcareous rocks, indented by innu- 
merable little caverns. Other remains of craters are met 
with at Osilo, Florinas, Bonarcado, and on the Trebina 
hills ; whilst St. Lussurgiu may be literally said to be 
built in one : the natives, however, enjoy a pure air, and 
its women are esteemed the handsomest in Sardinia. At 
Nurri are two hills, called "pizz'e oghe&dvC and "pizz'e 
ogu mannu" or peaks of the little and great eye, which 
were certainly ignivomous mouths, and the peasants be- 
lieve that they still have a subterraneous communication. 
A volcanic stream has run from them over a calcareous 
tract, forming an elevated plain, nearly 1600 feet above 
the level of the sea, called " sa giara e Serri ;" it over- 
looks Gergei, and is covered with oaks, ilex, and cork- 
trees, while the north side of its declivity affords rich 
pasture. N.W. from this plain is the " giara di Gestori," 
of similar formation, proceeding from a crater at Ales, 



OF SARDINIA. 



71 



but strewed with numerous square masses of stone, (prin- 
cipally fragments of obsidian, and trachytic and cellular 
lava,) so as to resemble a city in ruins. At Monastir, 
there is a distinct double crater now well wooded ; and a 
new bridge has just been constructed there of fine red 
trap, which, with the bold outline of the neighbourhood, 
render the entrance to the village by the new road sin- 
gularly picturesque. 

The tertiary formation lies on the west side of the prin- 
cipal inorganic chain, and besides forming the Campidano 
and bases on which the volcanic substances rest, consti- 
tutes the hills of Cagliari, Sassari, and Sorso. In the 
Campidano, towards Villa- Cidro, an alluvial silt, or 
sludge, runs deep, and beyond it are shingly patches, in- 
terspersed with boulder stones. Imbedded in the calca- 
reous masses that bound these plains, are found asterise, 
echinites, pholadites, and a great variety of other organic 
remains. 

The mineral riches of Sardinia were well known to the 
ancients ; and vast excavations, with the remains of nine 
founderies still to be traced, afford ample testimony of the 
extent of their operations. Tradition asserts that gold was 
formerly extracted, and the name of the district of Luogo 
d'Oro is adduced in proof ; but as none of that precious 
metal is positively known to have been found there, this 
appellation may have arisen from the fertility of the soil; 
or, according to others, from a corruption of Luogo 
Doria, as the greater part of that district belonged to the 
Doria family. There is no doubt that silver was found 



72 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



in considerable quantities, as it is even now procured in 
assaying the lead ; and near Talana, in the department of 
Ogliastra, Pisano, a priest, and several families, became 
secretly enriched by the discovery of a vein of ore near 
the surface, yielding, it is said, full fifty or sixty per cent, 
of pure silver. M. Belli, who was charged by the go- 
vernment With a mineralogical mission, endeavoured in 
vain to discover the spot, it being even yet kept a secret : 
he struck, however, on a vein of lead in the neighbourhood, 
at a place called Rio de Cani, which yielded six ounces 
of pure silver in a quintal of ore. Silver is known also 
to exist at the Argentaro of Nurra, near port St. Nicola, 
at Arbus, Iglesias, and Sarrabus. Copper is found at 
Corruxerbu near Sinnai, at Su arcu de Siedu, near Teu- 
lada, at Arzana, at Sa tanca granni de su Baroni, at Es- 
piritu Santu, in the territory of Flumini-major, at Argo- 
solo, and at Sa Tela, near Guspini, where beautiful 
specimens of malachite occur. Iron is very plentifully 
distributed, but is found principally at Monte Santo of 
Teulada, at Monte Ferru, in the district of Seneghe, at 
Acqua Rossa, in the territory of Villa Puzzu, at Monte 
Rubbiu near Talana, and at Piscinas Anguiddas: the 
richest mine is in the Ogliastra, where the intemperie, 
however, is so malignant as to preclude the formation of 
an establishment. Lead is the most abundant of Sardi- 
nian ores, and its mines are profusely scattered over the 
districts of Iglesias, Sarrabus, Villagrande, Arbus, Flu- 
mini-major, Nurra, Muravera, and various other parts 
of the island. Bismuth, antimony, and the loadstone, 



OF SARDINIA. 



73 



were also boasted of, but I was unable to ascertain with 
precision the places where they occur. Some quicksilver 
was found at Oristano, about sixty years ago, which M. 
Belli considered as part of a hidden deposit. But the 
Marquis of Arcais, digging afterwards near the same spot, 
to lay the foundation of the Carmelite convent, found a 
vein of brilliant globules of pure mercury, in a stratum 
of argil, of which about fifty or sixty pounds were col- 
lected, when the Fiscal magistrate seized the ground, on 
account of the damage the walls and cisterns would be 
liable to, by following the vein in the midst of the town. 

As there is abundance of wood in the immediate vici- 
nity of the mines, and of water, also, during the winter 
season, they ought, if properly worked, to be more pro- 
ductive than they have hitherto proved in modern times. 
Of those I visited, the only one worked at present was 
that called Dominico Rosa, in Monte Poni, at about half 
an hour's walk to the west of Iglesias. The entrance is 
half-way up the hill, and from it an horizontal gallery 
runs 250 yards in a direct line from east to west, about 
seven feet high, by five feet wide in the smallest parts. 
This is crossed diagonally by ten other galleries, extend- 
ing an hundred yards on either side, each recommended 
to the peculiar protection of a favourite saint whose name 
it bears, as is usual with their ships, boats, bridges, &c, 
a bigoted practice which often leads to spiritual dis- 
respect. The richest vein is that of St. Antioco, and 
then follow those of San Giuseppe, St. Effisius, and 
Sta. Barbara. But notwithstanding the richness of the 



74 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



ore, there were only eight or ten men employed when I 
visited the mine; and on hearing the noise which we 
made on entering the main gallery, they rose from their 
several burrows with lights in their hands, giving a very 
theatrical effect to the scene. About midway between 
Villa Cidro and Vih" Ermosa, on the south side of a hill 
of moderate height, are four outlets of an ancient lead 
and silver mine, which has long been neglected and 
allowed to fill up with water, from a dread, handed down 
by tradition, of the Solifuga, a small venomous spider, 
so named from its avoiding the sun and haunting the 
darkest recesses, and whose bite was considered to be 
mortal. But, I should rather suppose this mine was 
abandoned on account of the base of the ore beinsr an 
obdurate quartz, and therefore difficult and expensive to 
work ; more especially as the solifuga, according to the 
result of all my inquiries, is not known to exist in the 
present day. The only noxious spider which I could hear 
of, is the common tarantula, an insect much dreaded by 
the peasants, but not peculiar to dark places. To the 
S.W. of Iglesias is Monte d'Oru, which appears to have 
been thus named from the abundance of mineral wealth 
that was anciently extracted from its mines, for it is re- 
duced by excavation to a mere shell. The entrance is 
about a third part up the mountain, and is formed of 
hewn stone, whence a rugged, descending passage leads 
to a labyrinth of galleries and shafts, running off in every 
direction; in some places forming immense caverns, con- 
nected by passages so low, as to be traversed with diffi- 



OF SARDINIA. 



75 



culty. On the sides of these, were apertures leading to 
numerous apartments with vaulted roofs, where there are 
evidences of the labourers having resided. From the 
roof and floor of the main galleries are adits to various 
shafts, which cannot be examined without the assistance 
of ropes and other apparatus ; and, indeed, the width 
and depth of the yawning chasms are such, as to render 
the exploring the lower excavations too hazardous an 
attempt. Mr. Craig, of Maddalena island, penetrated a 
considerable distance into this mountain, and informed 
me, that, on throwing a stone into one of these pits, it 
was heard "bounding from side to side, till at last the 
sound seemed lost in the distance ; yet this might be a 
deception occasioned by echo. 

Among the mineral products may also be mentioned, 
the porphyry of Limbarra ; the basalt of Nurri, Gestori, 
and Serri ; the alabaster of Sarcidanu, Tonara, and Bo- 
naria ; and the marbles of the Goceano and Monte Raso. 
Masses of quartz, with rock crystals, as pure as the 
" acentetum" of the ancients, occur in the territory of 
Sulcis, where are likewise found the cornelian, sardonyx, 
and turquoise. At Pittinurri and Samugheu are very 
fine amethysts and schorls, and the chalcedonies, jaspers, 
irridescent quartz, and agates of Bosa, Alghero, and 
Isili are exceedingly beautiful. At Alghero there is a 
curious dendritic yellow mica, and a green quartz, called 
Algheronite ; but no lapis lazuli, as I had been informed, 
nor, indeed, has it yet been found in the island. The 
volcanic enamels, pearly obsidian, pitchstone porphyry, 



76 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



and red, yellow, and brown jaspers of the little island of 
St, Pietro, are particularly abundant. A few garnets 
were shown to me, as coming from Capo Terra, but I 
was unable to hear of any on the spot. At Tempio, 
crystallized felspar occurs, and the pyrites of St. Lus- 
surgiu are well defined. Small crystals of tourmaline 
are found closely aggregated in a vein of felspar that 
traverses a bed of granite, in the vicinity of Samugheu. 
Every variety of fossil wood is found at Ploaghe, Ozieri, 
and other places ; and I procured a remarkably curious 
siliceous specimen, found on opening the new road to- 
wards Bonorva, which has attracted the attention of Mr. 
Brown, of the Linnaean Society, and Dr. Martius, of 
Bavaria. It is a portion of the stem of a monocotyle- 
done, sixteen inches in length, five in diameter at the 
base, and decreasing to two and a half at the apex ; with 
several longitudinal fissures penetrating one or two hues 
from the surface, whilst the transverse section displays 
an irregular multiplicity of microscopic pores, in groups 
of from three to five. 

Friable, earthy, and fibrous lignites occur at Villa- 
Puzzu, Tonara, and the neighbourhood of Sassari, 
which with the imperfect Bovey coal found at Villa- 
Cidro, Martis, Mandas, Chiaramonte, and several other 
places, are almost the only bituminous substances. But 
although there have been so many volcanoes, and sele- 
nite, gypsum, lime, and aluminous schistus are very fre- 
quent, yet neither sulphur nor rock-salt have been dis- 
covered, and, except in the grottoes of Serrenti, very 



OF SARDINIA. 



77 



little alum. Nitre is procured at Isili and Samugheu, 
whence it is carried to Cagliari, to be used in the manu- 
facture of gunpowder. Some natural caverns in the 
mountains, which serve as retreats for the sheep that feed 
in the vicinity, are prepared with a stratum of light 
earth, about a foot thick, which, when well impregnated, 
is mixed with ashes, and put into casks for the process of 
lixiviation. Amianthus, of a harsh fibre, is plentiful at 
Ploaghe, and a fine asbestus is obtained at Isili. On the 
Espalmador of St. Pietro, there is a grey mixture of car- 
bonate of lime and alumine, resembling fuller'' s-earth, 
which is used by the natives in washing, under the name 
of terra saponaria. 

Mineral springs are numerous, but mostly neglected : 
the principal are those of Sardara, Villa-Cidro, and For- 
dongianus, in the Capo di Sotto ; and those at the foot of 
Castel Doria, at Dorgali, at Codrongianus, and the 
Benetutti springs of the Goceano mountains in the Ca- 
po di Sopra, In a secondary rank, may be mentioned 
the thermal waters of Marrubiu, Iglesias, and St. An- 
tonio. These have been but cursorily examined, and 
of those which I visited, I could only note the locality 
and temperature ; but as, even from the little use hitherto 
made of them, benefit has arisen, there is every reason to 
suppose that still more satisfactory results would be 
obtained by attending to them. Amongst the most use- 
ful may be mentioned the Acqua Cotta, at the eastern 
base of an insulated hillock, near Villa-Cidro. It is a 
small but constant limpid spring, of about 105° of 



78 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



Fahrenheit, running close by a streamlet of potable water, 
having a temperature of 60°, whilst that of the atmos- 
phere was 64°. Here most of the cloth of the Campi- 
dano is fulled : the peasants belonging to the Marquis of 
Villa-Sor alone are allowed the free use of the waters — all 
others are obliged to pay. Close to it are trifling ves- 
tiges of an ancient bath, and a rivulet runs from it, the 
sides of which are banked up by the circular black 
porous stones of the fullers. I was surprised at seeing 
no edifice here ; and as the adjacent district is waste, I 
had some trouble to find the spring, not having met with a 
human being in the neighbourhood whom I could ask to 
direct me. The waters of Sardara are in a valley, imme- 
diately under the castellated hill of Monreale, and close 
to the little church of Sta. Maria de Acquas. The baths 
are partly hewn out of the solid rock, with an arched roof, 
perforated for the admission of light ; and though the out- 
side has a dilapidated appearance, the interior is so per- 
fect, that little trouble would be requisite to render them 
available to invalids. There are four rooms, the largest 
of which is divided by a wall into two tanks, the one con- 
taining water to the depth of only eighteen inches, the 
other fifteen, supplied by three conduits in the south-east 
end of the building ; but this depth could easily be in- 
creased, by regulating the outlet in the circular wall at 
the west end. The temperature of the water on entering 
was 139° of Fahrenheit, in the baths 136°, the atmosphere 
of the chambers 78°, and in the shade, on the outside of 
the building, 61°. The recipients being utterly neglected, 



OF SARDINIA. 



79 



a quantity of mud is deposited, which, with the water, is 
carried to Cagliari for patients, instead of their repairing 
to the spot. The natives of Villa- Sor, Samassi, and 
Seddori, absurdly believe in a communication between 
these waters and the Acqua Cotta, although they are 
thirteen miles apart, with an extensive salt lake between 
them. Vestiges of Forum Trajani and its sulphureous 
baths exist at Fordongianus, near the left bank of the 
Tirsi ; but the springs, which are limpid and tasteless, of 
154° of Fahrenheit, have been entirely disregarded. The 
" bagni," as they are called, of Coguinas, are mere holes 
on the side of the river under Castel Doria, made by 
raking out as much sand as convenient. On the 23d of 
May, 1824, the heat in the river, four feet from the lower 
baths, was 714°, and in the excavation 114°, while the 
atmosphere was 57°. At the rocky bend, a little higher 
up, the river was 110°, and the spring 159°. A party 
was on the spot for the purpose of using the waters, who 
had rode thither from Castel Sardo, a distance of about 
ten miles, and had to return the same evening, which 
exercise would no doubt assist the efficacy of the springs. 

Sardinia lies between the 39th and 41st degrees of 
north latitude, and though the thermometer ranges from 
34° to 90°, I found its mean temperature, by a register 
of Six's thermometer, 61°. 7 ; but this being the average 
only in my cabin in the various ports and bays, I tried 
that of a very deep and limpid spring near Porto Conte, 
in a cavern, 120 feet below the surface of the earth, and 
found it to be 60j°. The medium height of the baro- 



80 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



meter appears to be about 29*69, the highest point I have 
known it being 30*40, and the lowest 29*20. The 
weather is proverbially variable as to heat and cold, but 
hail and thunder-storms rarely occur. The country is 
often greatly distressed for rain, though the dews fall so 
heavy as, in some measure, to compensate for the want. 
Snow is very common in the higher grounds in winter, 
but seldom remains in other parts more than a few hours. 
Earthquakes are very rare, and so feeble in their effects 
as to occasion but little alarm. The vapours that rise 
in summer from the lakes, marshes, and stagnant waters, 
though soon rarefied, are very blighting to the corn. 
The deceitful phenomenon so well known in Barbary by 
the name of 44 sarab" is very frequent in the lower 
grounds of Sardinia; and while at Villa- Cidro, I one 
morning saw the whole Campidano appearing like a vast 
lake, with the hills of Cagliari in the distance resembling 
islands. The most prevalent winds are the north-west 
and the east, the first of which is the healthiest. The 
sea-breezes, or 44 imbattu," which usually blow in towards 
noon, are exceedingly refreshing during the heat of the 
day; they fall calm as the sun goes down, and are suc- 
ceeded in the evening by the 44 rampinu," or land-wind. 
The north-east winds bring heavy rains, and the east 
wind, or 44 bentu de soli," (the coming of which is indicated 
by parasitic clouds on the summits of the mountains,) is 
usually accompanied by very vivid lightning, and, from 
its being loaded with vapours, becomes extremely dis- 
agreeable after a long continuance. The 44 maledetto 



OF SARDINIA. 



81 



levante," so complained of by the natives for its debili- 
tating effect, is a south-east wind ; the scirocco of Sicily 
and Italy, and the " Plumbeus auster" of Horace; 
whereas the north wind, from its opposite quality, is 
called the " secche," or dry. 

That certain local causes have through all ages tainted 
the atmosphere of Sardinia, may be gathered from the 
remarks and sarcasms of a host of early authors. Mar- 
tial, in mentioning the hour of death, celebrates salu- 
brious Tibur, at the expense of this pestilent isle : 

Nullo fata loco possis excludere, cum mors 
Venerit, in medio Tibure Sardinia est. 

Cicero, who hated Tigellius, the flattering musical buf- 
foon, so well described by Horace, thus lashes his coun- 
try, in a letter to Fabius Gallus : — " Id ego in lucris 
pono non ferre hominem pestilentiorem patria sua." 
Again, in writing to his brother, " Remember," says he, 
" though in perfect health, you are in Sardinia." Pom- 
ponius Mela affirms that, " soli quam cceli melioris;" 
while Pausanias, Cornelius Nepos, Strabo, Tacitus, Silius 
Italicus, and Claudian, severally bear testimony to the 
current opinion. In later times, the terse Dante sings: 

Qual dolor fora, se degli spedali 
Di Valdichiana tra '1 luglio e '1 settembre, 
E di maremma, e di Sardinia i mali 

Fossero in una fossa tutti insembre ; 
Tal era quivi : e tal puzzo n' asciva, 
Qual suol venir dalle marcite membre. 

The chief agent of this insalubrity must be sought for 
in the feculent miasma of marshes, beds of rivers and 

G 



82 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



torrents, stagnant pools, and putrescent vegetation, in 
the vicinity of which it is always found deleteriously 
active, and which are well known to be quite adequate to 
the generation of malignant fevers. Porcacchi, in his 
" Isole piu famose," erroneously asserts, that from four 
to five thousand mufflons (the Ovis ammon of Linnaeus) 
are sometimes taken at once, and their carcases being left 
to putrefy on the ground, taint the air; whereas this 
animal is not at all abundant, from its swiftness and shy 
habits is extremely difficult to approach, and frequents 
only the mountainous, and therefore healthy regions. 

The Intemperie appears to be somewhat different from 
the malaria of Italy and Sicily : for, though equally or 
even more acrimonious in effect, it does not always pro- 
duce the swelled bodies and sallow skins which are the 
pathognomonic symptoms of the latter. Both diseases 
usually commence when the summer heat, assisted by 
light showers, disengages the impure gases from the low 
grounds ; and continue until the latter end of November, 
when heavy rains have precipitated the miasma, and 
purified the air. But they differ, inasmuch as malaria 
is generally supposed to be weak in its effects, unless 
imbibed during sleep ; whereas intemperie, though worst 
at night, is pernicious at all times. Instances have been 
related to me, of strangers landing for a few hours onJy, 
from Italian coasters, who were almost immediately car- 
ried off by its virulence ; indeed the very breathing of 
the air by a foreigner at night, or in the cool of the 
evening, is considered as certain a death in some parts, 



OF SARDINIA. 



83 



as if he had swallowed some poisonous drug. Whilst 
the atmosphere is in this state, the natives never move 
abroad until an hour after sunrise, and they hasten 
home before sunset, carefully closing every door and 
window, or, if obliged to be out, hold a handkerchief 
before their mouth. The extreme heat of the day is also 
carefully avoided, for they are very apprehensive of the 
" colpo di sole," or stroke of the sun, attributing its fre- 
quency and fatal effects to the malignity of the intem- 
perie. There exists, besides, a fear of the " colpo d 1 aria,'" 
from the change of temperature occasioned by the sky 
becoming suddenly overcast, or by abruptly moving out 
of the sunshine into the shade. Exposure to the evening 
dew is said to bring on a severe headache, called micra- 
nia, much dreaded as a forerunner of intemperie. 

It is agreed on all sides that fire is an excellent anti- 
dote to this evil ; and it is recorded that the Lords of 
Oristano were wont, during the unhealthy season, to 
burn large fires around the town every night, to rarify 
the mephitic exhalations. Most of the people remove 
from the plains to the higher grounds, on St. John's day 
in June, when the air begins to be unsafe, though it does 
not become very dangerous until August. Those who, 
from their circumstances, are obliged to remain, keep 
themselves well clad in thick woollens, to avert the ardent 
rays of the sun. Exertion, exposure to summer showers, 
and fatigue of every kind are studiously avoided, and a 
spare but good diet adopted, with cool, acidulated drinks. 
In spite of such precautions, its effects are very frequently 

G 2 



84 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



felt, and in such cases, the patient is first attacked by a 
headache and painful tension of the epigastric region, 
with alternate sensations of heat and chilliness; a fever 
ensues, the exacerbations of which are extremely severe, 
and are followed by a mournful debility, more or less 
injurious, even to those accustomed to it, but usually 
fatal to strangers. 

Exhalations, it appears, are the principal cause of in- 
temperie, and it is evident they might be decreased by 
cultivating the macchie, draining the marshes, and con- 
fining the rivers to their beds, thus converting many a 
dreary waste into smiling cornfields and vineyards ; bear- 
ing in mind, however, that grounds being merely cleared 
and not planted, so far from correcting the evil, are 
thereby deprived of the natural absorption of a portion 
of their miasmata. Many Sards entertain a notion, that 
the green figs of infected districts imbibe and evolve the 
deleterious principle of intemperie ; it is, therefore, cus- 
tomary in the markets to express the place of their 
growth on the baskets. The viceroy himself advised me 
to be particularly careful in prohibiting my seamen from 
eating the fruit of the delicious vale of Pula ; nor, when 
the known quality of the fig-tree for intenerating meat is 
considered, does it seem a question unworthy of investi- 
gation. Corn grown on such grounds, on the contrary, far 
from participating in the injurious qualities of the air, is 
esteemed the finest, the land being most fertile in shel- 
tered, low, and damp valleys. Hedges of the Ficu Mo- 
riscu (Cactus opuntia) are supposed to increase the 



OF SARDINIA. 



85 



intemperie, by obstructing the evaporation from the earth, 
without absorbing moisture like other trees. Wherever 
the oleander flourishes, intemperie of an inveterate type 
may be expected. 

The migrations consequent on this distressing visita- 
tion, the want of cottages, pastures, and enclosures, and 
the many extensive macchie and commons, give the plains 
of Sardinia a depopulated aspect ; and may be adduced, 
amongst other causes, as a reason for the comparative low 
consideration in which this once most fertile of the Tyr- 
rhenian islands has been holden. The contempt in which 
the inhabitants of the plains are viewed by those of the 
mountains, and the large proportion of fiefs intrusted to 
indolent " podatarii," by non-resident Spanish nobles, (as 
the Marquis de Quirra, the Marquis de Villa-Sor, Count 
Montalvo, the Duke of Mandas, the Duchess of Gandia, 
and others,) are also serious obstacles to improvement. 

The lands are divided into feudal, and not feudal. 
The former comprise those belonging to the respective 
nobles, and those sold to individuals, but still recognizing 
the feudal lord. Those not feudal belong to commu- 
nities or to individuals, for landed property can be let or 
sold, or given away at the will of the owners, unless they 
are females, when the consent of the tribunals, and that 
of the husband (if married) must be obtained for every 
contract. The first in consideration, though by far the 
least in extent, are the enclosed lands called " Tanche," 
which are generally well cultivated. The larger portion 
of the land consists of u Yidazzone," i. e. belonging to 



% 



86 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



communities ; it is chiefly divided into three parts, each 
of which is cultivated in its turn, and while under culture, 
is enclosed with a line of hurdles, called Aidazzone ; but 
the rest being fallow, lies open to the ravages of wander- 
ing flocks, and the blasts of every wind. Both this, and 
all other land not actually under cultivation, being 
deemed common, and exposed as % paribihy"' or pastures, 
has effectually prevented their being planted, although 
there was no prohibition against trees or hedges on 
arable tracts. The government, however, having lately 
issued decrees in favour of enclosures, these valuable 
ornaments to the face of a country may shortly become 
more general. The custom of short and uncertain leases, 
of which the rents are usually paid in kind, constitutes 
another great defect, as the lands are sure to be ex- 
hausted by growing corn, without any regard to the 
future; and levelling, composts, or repairs are never 
thought of. Those tenements holden in " Bedestu," 
or for two years, are mostly paid for 66 de mezza portata,' 1 
with half the corn which they produce, and are gene- 
rally cultivated in such an improper manner, that the 
second harvest scarcely repays the little labour that is 
bestowed upon it ; besides which, they then lie fallow 
for two years. Even those who hold estates, by paying 
a mere trifle to the original feudal lord, cannot form 
vineyards or plant trees without his consent and parti- 
cipation, though all the risk and expense fall upon the 
projector. In some parts, the proprietor and the culti- 
vator share the produce; — the landlord furnishing the 



OF SARDINIA. 



87 



ground, the seed, and shelter; and the cultivator, the 
labour, the cattle, and the implements of husbandry; 
something after the manner of the " metayers" of France. 
It has been suggested lately to the Viceroy, that farming 
on a large scale would probably tend to the prosperity of 
the island ; but this might reduce the small farmers to 
the condition of labourers. 

The extensive macchie reflect discredit both on the 
manorial rights and the parochial direction. Yet the 
laws and regulations in favour of agriculture are many ; 
and in 1804, a highly respectable establishment was 
formed, for the express purpose of encouraging the 
national industry, under the name of the Agrarian and 
Economical Society of Cagliari. Besides the well-known 
Monti di Pieta, or charitable bank for the loan of money 
on articles pawned, without interest, for a period not ex- 
ceeding a year, Charles Emmanuel III. founded the 
Monti Granatici or Jrumentarj, which had been proposed 
as far back as 1631, though the contagions and other 
misfortunes that ensued, occasioned their procrastination 
till 1767. In these establishments peasants are annually 
furnished with seed corn, in proportion to their lands, 
and in ten years the capital amounted to 230,000 starelli, 
the seed being repaid after harvest, with the addition of 
an imbuto for every starello. The surplus is applied to 
the further augmentation of the institution, and the ex- 
penses are paid by a trifling tax, called the Centennie, 
which is farmed out, and therefore rigorously exacted. 
These two establishments are united under the name of 



88 PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 

Monti di Soccorso, the whole being regulated by a 
Censor-general at Cagliari, and vice-censors at Alles, 
Oristano, Bosa, Nuoro, Ozieri, Alghero, Sassari, and 
Tempio, by whom the adjacent towns are controlled. 
The carriage and sowing of the grain is done by a volun- 
tary act of all the villagers, a species of common labour 
termed 66 roadia." To prevent lands being neglected, 
all suits, in which farmers are concerned, have the pre- 
cedence in pleading and judgment. The utensils and 
implements essential to husbandry are held sacred for 
the maintenance of the family, and cannot be sequestered, 
or included in any execution for debt. A shepherd who 
has suffered sudden losses, can obtain immediate relief by 
the 66 paradura," or custom of each herdsman, (not only 
of his own district, but whenever he chooses to apply,) 
giving at least one young animal to replenish his stock, 
without contracting any obligation. The labour of indi- 
viduals and that of their oxen and horses is so far free, 
from the beginning of June to the end of September, 
that it can be claimed only for the royal service, or for 
the gathering and carriage of salt. In addition to this, 
it must be remembered, that the price of labour and of 
most articles, both actual and relative, is high : a proof 
that the quantity of capital compared with the labour 
employed is large, for wages would otherwise be low, as 
they always depend on the respective proportion between 
the rural population and the capital of a country. The 
fertility of the land, however, has never been properly ex- 
cited ; and I conceive it would be an easy matter to increase 



OF SARDINIA. 



89 



both the inhabitants and the capital, without apprehend- 
ing either that demoralization or poverty, attendant on a 
superabundant increase of labourers, in countries where 
there is not a sufficient demand for them ; for in this 
island there can be no danger, even if the population 
were tripled, of its pressing upon subsistence. 

The farmers of the plains rely much on the diligence 
of along-established corps called " Barancelli," in defend- 
ing them from the depredations of their highland neigh- 
bours. This is an armed assurance association for pro- 
tecting grounds against robbers and stray cattle, resem- 
bling the former watch companies of the Scottish moun- 
taineers. Every village has its party, under a Captain 
annually selected from amongst the most respectable 
of its inhabitants, and he chooses his barancelli; the 
Captain commands the several " Capi" or heads of the 
village districts, and of all those barancelli who guard 
the minor divisions. They maintain a strict watch 
during the night, from a certain hour of the evening, 
which varies according to the seasons, but which is made 
known to the inhabitants by a particular bell called <e su 
toccu e is barancellus," after which none are allowed to 
be out of their houses until " su toccu e su mengianu," 
or the morning bell, which announces the permission to 
proceed to their daily duties. The barancelli are under 
obligation to make restitution for all thefts, provided they 
receive immediate intimation of the robbery ; and to en- 
sure them full charge, a proprietor cannot send to his 
own grounds for fruit or vegetables, during the hours of 



90 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



their duty. To become a barancello, a man must have 
property to a certain amount, and must be well known 
for his integrity. These conditions, however, not having 
been always adhered to, robberies have occurred with 
the connivance of the barancelli themselves, and from 
various delays and pretexts, the damage has not been 
always rectified; but blemishes are attendant on every 
human institution, and it must be allowed, that, on the 
whole, it is a salutary establishment for Sardinia. During 
the year that a barancello serves he is well paid, is 
exempt from royal or baronial service, and has the 
u porta d' armi," or right of carrying arms. Their re- 
muneration arises from every landholder paying an an- 
nual sum, proportioned to his estate, towards a fund for 
repaying the losses that may occur, to which the baran- 
celli are obliged to add whatever may be deficient, but 
they share amongst them the superfluity which generally 
remains at the end of the year. The government having 
lately appropriated to itself the half of this fund, the baran- 
celli made it a pretext to pay no damages ; reparation was 
therefore reduced to one-fifth. The pay and privileges 
of a barancello are continued for a year after his service 
has expired, to give time for settling accounts. In the 
year 1819, Count Revel, the viceroy, disliking so many 
armed people about the country, wished to abolish this 
yeomanry, and assigned the duty to the cavalry lately in- 
troduced into Sardinia, called Royal Carabineers ; but the 
implacable hatred of the peasants to them, and their in- 
capacity for the charge, obliged the King to restore the 



OF SARDINIA. 



91 



former, under the appellation of " Cacciatore Pro- 
vincial! or Provincial Light Infantry. The barancelli, 
conceiving it their duty to apprehend thieves only, will 
not arrest banditti, or people flying from justice; I have 
seen them accordingly on terms of intimacy with noto- 
rious outlaws. 

The want of roads has hitherto been an insurmountable 
obstacle to personal security, and to agricultural wealth, 
from the difficulty and expense of transit ; and all the 
interior traffic is therefore carried on by <£ viandanti, , ' > or 
hawkers on horseback. The Romans made a road of 
about twenty-four feet wide, through the island, of which 
a considerable portion remains, extending from Fordon- 
gianus to Terralba; a little to the S.W. of Sardara is 
another piece, and a third a little to the N.E. of Mo- 
nastir, at which last place, the es columna migliari," now 
in the museum of Cagliari, was found in 1823. An 
attempt was made to profit by these remains, but it was 
found, that though the Romans paid sufficient attention 
to solidity, they never studied the level, whence many 
parts were impracticable for carriages ; and the masses of 
u opus incertum," though more durable, were not so 
commodious for the feet of either men or animals, as the 
modern roads. In examining and levelling some of the 
ground for a cross-road from Sassari to Terranova, a long 
tract of Roman causeway was found, consisting merely 
of a stratum of boulder stones placed on the ground with- 
out any cement. I noticed a large portion of similar 
construction between Bonorva and Macomer, which for 



92 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



these reasons has not been made use of, although the 
new road runs parallel and close to it. In 1822, a wide 
highway of 125 miles in length from Cagliari to Sassari, 
and thence to Porto Torres, was ordered to be cut, as 
the principal road in the island, under the direction of 
able officers; and it is expected that eight secondary 
roads leading to the most important towns in the island 
will follow. The operations proceeded with such spirit, 
that in 1824 I went in a coach with Signor Arri, the 
Ci Impressario," or contractor for the undertaking, and 
Captain Catella, the Engineer, from Sassari as far as 
Monte Santo in the Meilogu, to the utter astonishment 
of the natives, as it was the first carriage that had ever 
passed into the interior of Sardinia. The mode of travel- 
ling for persons of all ranks and both sexes, is either on 
horseback, or on oxen, with the baggage in a large 
wallet called " bertula," for not even the lettiga of Sicily 
is known here. When the new highways are completed, 
still the want of cross and by-roads will be seriously 
felt, from the continued difficulty the farmers will find in 
sending their produce to market. A tax has always 
been levied for roads and bridges, though neither could 
properly be said to exist. 

A very beneficial result of opening the roads has been 
a " Pregone," or vice-regal decree, dated April the 14th, 
1822, prohibiting the use of the royal highways to the 
rude (though classical) carts of the peasants, and ordering 
one for general adoption, with wheels of a certain make 
and dimension, moveable on a fixed axle, and hooped 



OF SARDINIA. 



93 



with smooth iron. The rustic vehicles, are recognised by 
Judge Mameli of Cagliari, as the k^o^ns of the Greeks, 
and " Plaustrum" of the Romans, grounding his argu- 
ment on a passage of Julius Pollux in chapter xiv. 
of the first book of Onomastics, and another in Scheffer 
" De re vehiculari;' 1 they are, however, with slight varia- 
tions, common to all Celtic people. The construction is 
extremely simple, being a sort of ladder, wide at the 
hinder part, but contracting to an acute point in the 
fore-part, so as to form a pole for the oxen to draw by, 
and fitted with pegs, about midway, to rest on the axle. 
The wheels are extremely heavy from being solid, and 
stuck round the edge with projecting triangular headed 
nails, instead of a smooth hoop, and this is the only iron 
used in the whole cumbersome machine. The axletree 
is fixed into the wheels, and being thus turned round 
with them, has to act against the increased resistance of 
the load. An inspection of the whole of its parts con- 
vinces me that it is more simple, and therefore perhaps 
more ancient, than those I have seen of a similar kind in 
Spain, Greece, and Calabria. Another peculiarity is, 
resting the yoke on the forehead of the oxen, and binding 
it round the base of the horns, as in the annexed sketch, 
(p. 94) ; and it may excite a smile when I observe, that 
while I had the model constructed, from which it is drawn, 
one of the canons of the cathedral remarked, that u the 
English were a wise people, always travelling to seek 
improvements and carry them home !" Those oxen that 
are likely to gore people are marked on the horns, as with 
the " foenum habet in cornu," of Horace, to denote their 



94 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



being mischievous, or " bois chi sunt de mala fama," 
which exonerates the owner from fine, if accidents occur. 
The driver guides by a rein from the yoke of each ox, 
passed round the inner ear, which torment, added to that 
of the ligatures on the horns, renders the sight of them 
with their bended necks, slowly dragging the creaking 
car, a melancholy object; and they are not only whipped, 
but goaded along, as with the ancients. Notwithstanding 
the barbarous construction of these carts, the farmers 
murmur at being obliged to alter them, complaining that, 
besides the unnecessary expense, the fixed axletree occa- 
sions heavier working on the wheels, and more shaking 
to the cart than the moveable one ; nor can they conceive 
that wheels with spokes are capable of bearing as much 
weight as those that are solid. In some of the old roads, 
the ruts are worn, by the heads of the nails, nearly as 
deep as the semi-diameter of the wheels, which, however, 
is thought no inconvenience, and I was told that the new 
road would be imperfect until it was thus worn into a 
similar shape. 



OF SARDINIA. 



95 



The Sardinian plough also claims the merit of anti- 
quity, being the simple 44 aratrum" of the Romans, and 
is so light an instrument, that, penetrating to the depth 
of only two or three inches, it rather scratches the ground 
than produces a furrow . It is not only unprovided with 
a coulter, but is very frequently devoid of any iron appen- 
dage. When a piece of ground is marked out for tillage, 
the proprietors cast lots for the different portions. The 
underwood on the respective allotments is then cut down, 
and when withered and dried is burnt on the spot. In 
the process of ploughing, the instrument is not directed 
in a straight line, but made to wind round the different 
roots, stones, trees, and other impediments. If a peasant, 
who cannot afford to use oxen, clears a piece of land by 
the 44 marrone," a kind of hoe, he is exempt from rent 
and taxes the first year. Most of the garden-grounds 
are worked with the hoe, the spade and mattock being 
unknown, except to the Piedmontese labourers on the 
new roads. 

All the corn is left in the fields until it is threshed, an 
operation expensively effected by the tread of mares and 
colts, on an area, called 44 argiolo," previously prepared by 
paring off the sward, and beating the soil with a mallet 
to the required hardness. The animals are formed into 
two chains, of twenty or more in each, by tying their 
necks loosely together, with one which is well broken in, 
at each end. The two sets work alternately, running 
round a strong pole, over the wheatsheaves, under the 
care of a skilful driver, called 44 su bazoni," who, with 



96 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



the proprietor of the animals, is usually paid in kind. 
Some of the very inferior farmers use oxen with large 
stones tied to them. These modes of threshing are de- 
fended by the Sards, under the pretext that the straw 
is, by that process, rendered sufficiently small for oxen 
to eat, as they have no idea of cutting it; but to a 
foreigner the straw seems bruised and spoiled, whilst the 
corn for making bread, not only requires to be well 
washed, but occasions the women a great loss of time in 
picking it clean. Winnowing is managed by merely 
throwing the corn up from the argiolo into the air, for 
the wind to disperse the chaff. 

The farmers are ignorant of the advantage of laying 
down grasses, when land is exhausted ; nor is there any 
regular system of manuring ; but when that measure is 
urgently required, it is recurred to in October, which 
is thence called " mes e ladaminis," from " ladamini," 
manure. Paring and burning is the grand restorative ; 
and to prevent accidents from the rapidity with which 
flame spreads over tracts parched by the summer heats, 
the burning of stubble is prohibited by the Carta de 
Logu, till the festival of the Virgin, on the 8th of Sep- 
tember ; and those who wish to fire their grounds are 
obliged by the same code, so early as St. Peter's day, 
the 29th of June, to form a paillamento, or cleared space, 
around them, to prevent injury to their neighbours. 
Few of the grounds are irrigated by artificial means, 
except the Tanche, where the water is generally drawn 
up by the Persian wheel, in which useful machine I 



OF SARDINIA. 



97 



observed an additional staff inserted into the main cylin- 
der, which, leading to the head of the horse, guides him 
steadily round. 

Cattle, sheep, goats, and swine are divided into two 
classes; the " manso," being those which work, or yield 
milk, wool, &c, are therefore carefully tended, and ad- 
mitted to the best pastures ; and the " rude," or those 
which are intended for slaughter, or to be kept for breed- 
ing, and are allowed to ramble over hills and wastes till 
they become almost wild ; but, with the exception of swine, 
they cannot be said to improve much. All " bestiame 
rude," except horses, must bear a mark on the ear, or 
they are liable to seizure. The amount of property, 
whether of shepherds or other individuals, is calculated 
by " segni," that is, each flock or herd has a particular 
mark, cross, or cipher. Thus five or six hundred sheep 
bear one mark, and are called " un segno," but of larger 
animals, one or two hundred at most form a sign. The 
young animals are not included in the enumeration, be- 
cause they are often sold, whereas the sign is kept up to 
one number, and two or more petty proprietors often 
unite in forming one " segno." All the work of the 
fields is done by oxen, and in many points of husbandry 
they are superior to horses. 

The only artificial fodder is the " mischiale," or bar- 
ley, lucerne, basil, and vetches, mixed in the manner 
which is mentioned by Pliny. The " triticum repens," 
or couch-grass, such a decided evidence of bad cultiva- 
tion, grows very generally, and is eaten by the cattle. 

H 



98 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



But as all verdure is burnt up by the sun in summer, 
and no precautions are taken for housing the animals, or 
providing dry forage, the stock are much exposed to 
hunger, and great numbers annually fall victims to 
famine ; their condition, indeed, may be said to ebb and 
flow with the seasons. I attempted to reason with a pro- 
prietor on the policy of making hay, and recommended 
the Maltese custom of fattening bullocks with cotton- 
seed; u Oh," said he, " our meat is fat enough for us, 
and those who like it more so, can pour oil over it."" 

There are two kinds of horses in Sardinia; those 
reared in the Tanche, called 66 cavalli di razza," and the 
common, denominated " mansi," or " rudi," according 
as they are more or less kept in stables. The very small 
horse, called " acchetta,'' was anciently in high esteem 
with the Roman matrons, and is certainly an easy-paced, 
lively little animal. Sardinian horses are in general free 
from vice, patient of fatigue, and thrive on moderate 
food ; and the Sards, like the Arabs, acquire a perfect 
management of them, without making it a study. Infi- 
nite pains are taken with the " cavalli di razza," and 
their breed is carefully attended to^ as it is customary to 
have horse-races in every village in the island, once a-year 
at least, and on every festival in the larger towns. That 
attention has been paid to their improvement for at least 
four centuries, appears from the Carta de Logu, wherein 
is specified the value of the horse required for an armed 
man to present himself upon ; and Eleanor, moreover, 
prohibited her subjects from selling saddle-horses to 



OF SARDINIA. 



99 



strangers. Though travelling in Sardinia is not yet 
facilitated by good roads, the agreeable amble of their 
horses greatly promotes equestrian exercise. It is called 
the " passo portante,'" and differs so much from the na- 
tural amble, that some horses, from its difficulty, never 
attain the correct step, but fall into a shuffling trot. 
The breaking in is harshly managed by means of rope 
trammels, and requires three weeks or a month ; but 
when the " portante" is once gained, it is never after- 
wards lost. In moving along, the horses successively 
raise the fore and hind foot of the same side, and then 
those of the other, so that, at the same instant, they 
stand either on two right or two left legs. They keep up 
this pace for several hours, and though not graceful, I 
have found it a great comfort while travelling in that 
country. This acquirement is an object of importance 
with the country gentlemen ; and when I was once riding 
with Signor Mameli, in the Campidano, we were met by 
an acquaintance of his, whose first inquiries, as usual on 
such meetings, were after the welfare of the cattle, and 
amongst other questions, he asked, <e Have you still got 
your large red horse?"" " Yes." " Has he taken the 
portante yet?" " No." " Why then do you keep such 
a dolt?" 

For the improvement of the breed of horses, and of 
stock in general, there is an establishment in the plain of 
Ghilarza, named the u Regia Tanca,'"' where Arabian and 
Spanish stallions are kept at the expense of government, 
as also Swiss bulls, and rams of various countries, the 

H 2 



100 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



use of which is permitted gratis, to all proprietors who 
bring females of a required race and standard. But 
horses are generally worked too soon here, which pre- 
vents their attaining either size, or strength of muscle. 
It is very singular, that in an island where all the interior 
traffic depends on land-carriage, so serviceable an animal 
as the mule should be unknown ; yet this strange fact 
appears to be rather a matter of taste, than the effect of 
any ordinance. The use of oxen is, however, fully 
appreciated, not only for drawing carts, and for peasants 
to ride upon, but, near the towns of the Campidano, 
where there are a few miles of smooth road, it is not un- 
unusual to see coaches drawn by them. The ass of Sar- 
dinia is scarcely used in the transit of goods, and it is 
reckoned disgraceful to ride upon one. It is eminently 
useful, however, in carrying water and grinding corn, 
for this animal is not much larger than a Newfoundland 
dog, so that, with the mill and all its apparatus, it occu- 
pies only a corner of a room. Thus every house in the 
Campidano, as well as in many other districts, has its 
little mill, the " mola asinaria" of the ancients, and its 
ass to turn it, thence called " su molenti," patiently toil- 
ing the whole day, except when wanted to carry water. 
It may be added that windmills are unknown, and that 
water-mills are almost confined to a few places in the 
Capo di Sopra. But the domestic practice, though 
humble, is the most general; a representation of the 
apparatus may therefore prove interesting, as it is doubt- 
lessly possessed of classical antiquity. 



OF SARDINIA. 



101 




There are fine forests on the mountainous parts of 
Sardinia, which are called " littu," but, when growing on 
the sides and bottoms of dells, are named " pudentis." 
The best timber is in the Goceano, the Marghine, Pla- 
nargia, Gallura, and Barbargia. On the side of the 
mountains of Genargentu there is an extensive elevated 
flat, called " su Sarcidanu," (probably from Arcipiano, 
or mountain plain,) clothed with fine oak, beech, chest- 
nut, and cork-trees, where the natives of Aritzu, Gadoni, 
Laconi, Nurallau, and Isili have the privilege of feeding 
swine. On the Menomeni range, between St. Lussurgiu 
and Macomer, is " su littu de St. Antoni," another elevated 
plain, about nine miles in width and eleven or twelve in 



A 



102 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



length, also covered with a rich forest. The Giarre de 
Serri has been already mentioned, and the hills of Tre- 
bina and Arcuosu have fine woods, plentifully stocked 
with wild hogs and game. Pine-trees I observed only 
near Terranova, and not many even there. The cork-tree 
is the finest I have met with, and though profusely scat- 
tered over the Capo di Sopra, very little of its bark is 
exported. No manna is gathered, though it is not un- 
common to meet the " fraxinus ornus," from which it is 
so plentifully extracted in Sicily. Many laws have been 
promulgated for the care and preservation of the woods, 
yet every abuse prevails, and the shepherds continually 
damage large tracts, not only by the injurious browsing 
of their flocks and herds, but also by fire and wanton 
destruction. Timber is extremely scarce in the cultivated 
districts, and particularly in the Campidano, while, for 
want of roads and means of conveyance, that of the 
forests is almost useless. In vain have the district magis- 
trates been enjoined, under heavy penalties, to plant trees, 
at the expense of the respective towns, and to form public 
walks, for, except at Sassari, the edict has been utterly 
disregarded ; the Sards, perhaps, thinking with Dr. John- 
son, that " there is a frightful interval between the seed 
and the timber P 1 

A similar neglect has, attended the injunction to plant 
mulberry-trees in all the Tanche, to facilitate the intro- 
duction of the silkworm, for which the climate appears 
well calculated. A dwarf mulberry-tree, called " mura 
e orru," grows in abundance all over Sardinia, and the 



OF SARDINIA. 103 

ogliastra, or wild olive, is found on all the higher grounds. 
Wild pears and cherries, as well as the " crabioni," a 
small fig, are seen every where, but especially in the 
Sulcis. The " lambriscu," or wild grape, grows pro- 
fusely, is widely dispersed, and a tolerable light wine is 
made from it. 

Amongst the orchard fruit are, figs, grapes, me- 
lons, apples, apricots, peaches, almonds, and the " ficu 
moriscu," or prickly-pear. These are universally met 
with, but walnuts and chestnuts are almost confined to 
Aritzu, Tonara, and St. Lussurgiu. Oranges, lemons, 
and citrons are most attended to at Iglesias, Domus- 
novas, Villa-Cidro, Milis, and Sassari, but are not held 
in great esteem; and whether they were considered as 
of too little value, or if to encourage the propagation, is 
uncertain, but they are not yet included in the decimu, 
or tithe. The Sards are ignorant of the method of in- 
fusing the flowers, and have not yet exported either the 
juice or rinds of the " argrumi," (or oranges and lemons 
of all kinds,) though, having more than they consume, 
much is wasted ; and it is customary to see fruit on the 
trees throughout the year. From this indifference, the 
amount of the annual export of fruit is little more than a 
thousand pounds sterling. Date-trees grow on the Cam- 
pidano, and some of the produce is gathered and sold, 
but is not of a good quality, the tree being cultivated prin- 
cipally for its fine etiolated branches, so useful and orna- 
mental in their processions, and other church ceremonies. 

Both the cultivated and uncultivated vegetables are 



104 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



particularly fine and abundant. The celery and tomatas 
are the largest and best flavoured I have met with ; and 
the " torzi," a kind of turnip-cabbage, are gigantic when 
compared with those of Italy, Sicily, or Greece, weighing, 
without the leaves, eight or ten English pounds each. 
Pease and cabbages grow wild in the greatest luxuriance, 
and the asparagus of the hedges is sold in profusion in the 
market, in the months of March and April. Throughout 
the spring, the plains are covered with a mixture of weeds 
and wild flowers of peculiar beauty, and amongst the 
most flourishing plants may be observed the myrtle, 
juniper, arbutus, woodbine, jasmine, acanthus, borage, 
madder, basil, and senape. This floral variety is the 
source of a plentiful supply of excellent honey and wax ; 
but that portion of the former, however, which is taken 
from the hives in autumn, retains the bitterness thus stig- 
matized by Horace : 

Ut gratas inter mensas symphonia discors 

Et crassum unguentum, et Sardo cum melle papaver 

Offendunt. 

Various reasons have been assigned for the cause of this 
quality, some imputing it to the flowers of the arbutus, 
others to yew, laurel, and rue ; but many more to the 
paradoxical " erba sardoa,"" a plant said to produce fatal 
convulsions, that agitate and distort the mouth of the 
patient, so as to make him appear to smile though in 
agonizing pain. From this arose the proverb, Safiwvios 
ys'Xws-, or Sardonic laugh, to express the affected merri- 
ment that conceals severe uneasiness, or the assumed 



OF SARDINIA. 



105 



smile of bad and malicious men. It was said to be ad- 
ministered, by the Carthaginians, to the human victims 
destined to be sacrificed to Saturn, that the horrid 
tragedy might assume an appearance of festivity. Vir- 
gil's Bucolic of Corydon and Thyrsis, has been quoted 
in proof of the malignant effects of the erba sardoa : 

Immo ego Sardois videar tibi amarior herbis, 
Horridior rusco, prqjeta vilior alga : 

thus freely translated by Dryden : 

May I become as abject in thy sight 
As sea-weed on the shore, and black as night; 
Rough as a bur, deformed like him who chaws 
Sardinian herbage to contract his jaws. 

This herb, so singular and pernicious, is mentioned by 
Pausanias, Isidorus, Pliny, Suidas, and a host of other 
ancient writers. Homer applies it to the expression of 
countenance assumed by Ulysses on having the shin-bone 
of an ox thrown at liim ; and Dioscorides gives a detailed 
description of it under the term /3aT§a%jov. In my fre- 
quent inquiries on the subject, I found the belief of its 
existence very general, and the " risus Sardonicus" a 
familiar term. It was described by some as a parasitic 
weed, growing on the banks of rivulets amongst aquatic 
plants, being called " djurra" at Terranova, and " lohone" 
at Tempio. A farmer at Alghero told me it was very 
dangerous to eat water-cresses, as the fatal parasite ad- 
hered closely to the leaves, and begged me therefore 
to order my boat's crew to throw away some very fine 
ones, which they had just gathered. Still, as I could 



106 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



not procure a specimen at either of those places, or get 
any authentic relation of accident therefrom, I must 
either conclude the herb not to have been hitherto re- 
cognised by the moderns ; or that the whole story is en- 
titled to no more credence than that of the wonderful 
fountains of Sardinia, which destroyed the sight of rob- 
bers and perjurers, but improved the eyes of the virtuous; 
— or the account of the damsels, in Solinus, having two 
pupils to each eye. The acrid pungency of the ranun- 
culus sceleratus, which is found in great luxuriance, 
might indeed, if applied inside the mouth, give some 
colour to the tradition. The apium, or parsley with a 
finely-divided leaf, so early noticed by the ancients, grows 
wild in such plenty, that Linnaeus thought Sardinia its 
native country. Many of the natives suppose this to 
have been the erba sardoa, and that it has now lost its 
poisonous quality; but according to Dr. Woodville, 
although parsley is commonly used in our cooking, it 
occasions epilepsy in some constitutions, or at least aggra- 
vates the epileptic fits of those who are subject to this 
disease. 

The central position of Sardinia, between Spain, 
France, Italy, and Africa, would allure a more enter- 
prising people to commerce and maritime adventure ; the 
beautiful harbours of St. Pietro, Porto Conte, Madda- 
lena, and Terranova, with the spacious bays of Cagliari, 
Palmas, Oristano, Alghero, Porto Torres, Vignola, and 
Tortoli, being admirable stations, from whence the va- 
rious produce of the different parts of the island might 



OF SARDINIA. 



107 



easily be embarked. Yet, although the Sards possess 
these facilities, and most of the elements of foreign and 
domestic trade, they are nevertheless insensible to these 
important advantages. Pastoral habits have induced in- 
dolence, whilst petty warfare has blinded them to national 
improvement, and with an apathy truly unaccountable in 
islanders, they have an utter aversion to the sea ; a voyage 
to terra firms, as they call a visit to Genoa, being their 
ne plus ultra. Not only all the trade, therefore, is carried 
on by strangers, but even the fish on their coasts, and in 
their harbours, is caught by Sicilians, Neapolitans, Tus- 
cans, and Genoese. Soap, stationery, drugs, spices, glass, 
pottery, furniture, and almost every article of dress, 
whether for the gentry or the peasantry, even to the 
" barettas," or cloth caps worn by the lower classes, and 
comforts of every kind, are imported. Though possess- 
ing so much rich ore, iron and steel bars are also sup- 
plied from abroad ; — nay more, the Sicilians even per- 
suaded them to procure the salt for curing their tunnies 
from Sicily, pretending it was better adapted for the pur- 
pose than that of Cagliari or Oristano. And pozzolana 
was procured for the foundations of their bridges, and 
other uses, at a vast expense, from Naples, until Cavalier 
La Marmora showed them the abundance they have in 
their own volcanic districts. This general neglect of 
trade cannot be wholly imputed to vexatious laws or 
arbitrary restrictions, but, as Hume has said, 66 Commerce 
" is apt to decay in absolute governments, not because it 
<c is there less secure, but because it is less honourable." 



108 PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 

In England, although failures and distress often visit 
individuals from inordinate enterprise, yet the country in 
the mean time prospers ; but in Sardinia, both languish 
from undertaking nothing. This inaction naturally pre- 
venting the acquisition of much disposable wealth, pro- 
jects for manufactures, or growing sugar, and schemes 
for mines, potteries, and tanneries, have always failed for 
want of capital. Yet it cannot be doubted, that the 
general state of Sardinia has been materially improved 
under the house of Savoy, and its improvement is still 
advancing, in spite of the habitual idleness, contempt of 
innovation, and carelessness for the future, which are in- 
separable from a true Sard. 

Corn is the principal article of export, but the quan- 
tity falls far short of that vaunted by ancient authors, 
and which drew forth the u Siciliam et Sardinian! benig- 
nissimas urbis Romanae nutrices" of Valerius Maximus. 
Its export is not allowed, unless the quantity is consider- 
able ; and a heavy duty is injudiciously imposed, as a sub- 
stitute for a general land-tax. Unless the average price 
of wheat, in the principal markets, is above ten reals the 
starello, its importation is prohibited, as is its exportation 
if more than thirty. The average price is established, 
and made public every three months, or oftener if any 
great variation, or other peculiar circumstances occur, by 
a proclamation of the Intendant-general. The largest 
portion of wheat is of a very superior, though soft kind, 
called " trigu," but it will keep good only aboift eighteen 
or twenty months ; it is usually sowed in November and 



OF SARDINIA. 



109 



December, and reaped in June. The peasants, in some 
of the villages, sow the grain from a bag round the neck, 
the se trimaria" of the Romans. Of the different kinds 
of corn that are cultivated, the 66 listra niedda" ranks as 
the best, though the " cicireddu nieddu" is nearly as 
good; the i( coa de azzargiu," or heart of steel, has a 
hard, semi-transparent grain; — the " semini-biancu" pro- 
duces excellent straw, and the " seme rosso" is the most 
common. The amount of the annual crops decide the 
extent of the commercial operations for the year ; abund- 
ant harvests allow of nearly 400,000 starelli being ex- 
ported, each starello equal to about a bushel and a 
quarter Winchester measure, though a difference of 
twelve per cent, is made in measuring " raso," even with 
the edge of the measure, or " colmo," heaped up. The 
barley is inferior in quality as compared with the wheat ; 
its cultivation allows of about 200,000 starelli being ex- 
ported. Maize, or Indian corn, the " granu Turco"of the 
Sards, is not generally grown, though it succeeds well in 
Campo Lazzaro, Padria, Meilogu, and the Sulcis, and 
the cultivation of it is extending in other parts of the 
island. This useful grain is used principally in the 
dishes called u Minestra,' 1 and " Polenta," but bread is 
not yet made of it, except at Flumini major ; the greater 
part is therefore exported, and amounts to about 5 or 
6000 starelli. The quantity of flour, biscuit, and mac- 
caroni, which is shipped off, is also proportionate to the 
harvest, and state of the markets. Of pulse, there 
are usually 100,000 starelli of beans, 200,000 of pease, 
and 1000 of lentils, exported annually. 



110 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



The culture of vines is becoming every year of in- 
creasing importance to Sardinia, both the climate and 
soil being adapted to render them productive. The 
wines are named after the grapes from which they are 
expressed. Of the sweet wines, which are generally 
white, the most esteemed are the moscatu, the giro, and 
the cananau of the Campidano ; the muscatu of Alghero ; 
and the malvagia of Sorso. The strongest wines are the 
malvagia of Cagliari, Bosa, Quartu, and Alghero ; the 
nascu and guarnaccia of Oristano and Cagliari, and the 
red wines of Alghero and Ogliastra. The more common 
white wines are those of Terralba, Sassari, and Tiesi ; 
with the ginias, nieddu, and serrabusu of the Campidano. 
About 2000 Catalan pipes, each containing a hundred 
quartieri of eight pints, are annually embarked at Al- 
ghero, 1700 at Ogliastra, and 5 or 600 at Cagliari. 
This is a profitable branch of commerce, which might be 
largely increased both in quality and quantity, though the 
latter is too frequently forced at the expense of the former. 
It is made during the months of September and October, 
in cool cellars furnished with large vats, open at the top, 
which are filled with grapes, black, white, and red, ripe 
and unripe, sound and decayed, in a promiscuous heap ; 
a mixture that cannot fail to be injurious to the produce. 
The fruit is thus left four or five days to effervesce, the 
proper period depending on the state of the weather, but 
easily distinguished by tasting the expressed juice; the 
upper grapes then being removed, (as only fit for making 
vinegar,) a man gets in bare legged, and tramples down 



OF SARDINIA. 



Ill 



the remainder with his feet. As the process advances, 
the treader occasionally takes out the must with a bucket, 
and pours it through a strainer into the next vat, whence 
it is again drawn off through a sieve into regular butts, 
which are left without bungs until the following spring, 
when it is finally barrelled for consumption. Wine of a 
second quality is made by putting the lees under a screw- 
press; and a third sort, the " vinetto" or " piricciolu," 
is yielded by adding water, and again pressing the lees ; 
thus making the " lora' of Pliny. Lastly, the " vi- 
naccie , ' ) or dregs, after being well soaked in water, are 
put under a heavy weight to prevent fermentation, and 
are kept as winter food for the oxen. 

There are several beautiful and extensive olive grounds 
in various parts of the island, but oil has been neither 
so abundant, nor so profitable an export as it might be. 
Yet the Stamenti, early in the seventeenth century, en- 
joined every householder annually to engraft ten wild 
olive trees, and every possessor of five hundred trees, to 
establish an oil mill. The house of Savoy have offered 
every encouragement for the propagation of this branch 
of commerce, and it is consequently rapidly increasing. 
The olive groves of Bosa, Sorso, Sennori, Iglesias, Cu- 
glieri, and Oristano, are reckoned very good, but the best 
are those of Sassari, where they begin to express the oil 
in December, and finish in February, producing about 
5000 barrels. A small quantity of inferior oil is also 
produced from the Ogliastra, or wild olive, which, with 
that made from the Lentiscus, serves the peasants for 
burning. 



112 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



Cheese is one of the most considerable objects of rural 
economy, particularly in the Sulcis ; though only a small 
portion of butter is made, and the greater part even of 
that is boiled down to ensure its keeping, in which state 
it is called " manteca." From inattention to the treat- 
ment of their cows, very little milk is obtained from them; 
the cheese is, therefore, mostly made from sheep and 
goat's milk, and from being steeped in brine, is offensive 
to an English palate. Of the fine dry cheese of Iglesias 
and Sinnai about 3000 cantars are annually made, and 
of the common and coarse, 12,000. The months for 
making it are May, June, and September; and a great 
quantity is immediately shipped off for Naples and Malta, 
at the first of which places it is in high demand. The 
inferiority of these primary articles of consumption, and 
the neglected state of the macchie and paribili, strongly 
illustrate the indignant exclamation of Arthur Young. 
" Good Heaven V? says he, on being disappointed of milk, 
66 what an idea northern people have (like myself, before 
I knew better) of a fine sun, and a delicious climate, as it 
is called, that gives myrtles, oranges, lemons, pomegra- 
nates, jasmines, and aloes, in the hedges ; yet are such 
countries, if irrigation be wanted, the veriest deserts in 
the world ! On the most miserable tracts of our heaths 
and moors, you will find butter, milk, and cream ; give 
me that which will feed a cow, and let oranges remain in 
Provence." 

Salt is an important article of export, and is one of 
the most profitable branches of the royal revenue; for, 



OF SARDINIA. 



113 



besides the Piedmontese states, Sweden was till lately 
entirely supplied from Sardinia. The salterns are worked 
by galley-slaves, but the excavation of the mounds, and 
the carriage of the salt is a labour forced on the adjacent 
villagers, for which they receive a small compensation. 
Some idea may be formed of the gain accruing to the 
royal purse, when it is stated, that his majesty's expenses 
are not more than nine reals, or four fifths of a dollar per 
salm, and his continental subjects are obliged to take 
many thousand salms, at fifty dollars each. The Sards, 
in general, pay but five dollars the salm, and in the capital 
it is furnished gratis, in consequence of the salterns ceded 
by the city to the king. Around Cagliari there are 
three natural salterns, Molentargius, Spiaggia di Mezzo, 
and Rollone ; there is also an artificial one at the Lazza- 
retto, and another near St. Peter's church, all of which 
belong to government, and if well regulated, would an- 
nually produce ninety thousand salms. Besides these, 
there are four other artificial salterns in the gulf of Cag- 
liari, respectively called La Vittoria, Media-plaja, Corte- 
longa, and La Maddalena, in favourable seasons yielding 
together about 12,000 salms. These the king has let 
out to individuals, at the rate of twenty-five scudis for 
every productive " casella," or square compartment. 
The salterns of Teulada have been abandoned for some 
years, but, if attended to, would probably yield upwards 
of 6000 salms ; and those of Oristano, which produce 
only 4000, might be increased to 20,000. The salterns 
of Terranova, though languishing under every kind of 

I 



114 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



neglect, yield at least 1000 salms. There are various 
other salt-lakes besides these, but the produce is pur- 
posely broken up, mixed with sand and stones, and then 
thrown off the banks, by order of government, to prevent 
any one from benefiting thereby, to the injury of the 
royal revenue. It is usually sold by the salm, which 
consists of fourteen cantars of coarse salt, or twelve of 
the finer sort. 

Tobacco is also a royal monopoly : its culture and pre- 
paration were introduced by the Austrians in 1714, and 
have been attended with the greatest success; for the 
plant, instead of exhausting the ground, is found to im- 
prove it. Around Sassari, Alghero, and the adjacent 
villages, tobacco is grown by individuals, who must each 
be furnished with an express license, and are obliged to 
sell the produce to government. The snuff is made at 
the royal works at Sassari ; a mill has lately been esta- 
blished at Porta Gesu, at Cagliari, where segars and 
smoking tobacco, also, are prepared. The snuffs are 
called the Zenziglio, Scaglia-bianca, and the Manocco, 
of which the first, made from the points of the leaves 
only, is the most esteemed; it is a light yellow, and 
resembles that of Valencia. 

Linseed is produced in the greatest abundance in the 
neighbourhood of Oristano, where it is gathered in June 
and J uly , and embarked in September, to the amount of 
nearly 2000 starelli per annum. About 1000 cantars 
only of flax are exported ; the rest is used in the linen 
manufactures of the country, of which the best are made 



OF SARDINIA. 



115 



at Busachi, and called " Canuisa," or shirt-linen, from 
the purpose for which it is intended ; whilst the inferior 
sorts are denominated " tela grussa." For a similar rea- 
son, not more than 3000 cantars of indifferent wool are 
exported, the rest being chiefly made into 66 furesi," or 
coarse cloths by the villagers: yet the climate would 
admit of wool as fine as the Spanish, and sheepwalks of 
large extent could easily be established. The best qua- 
lity of cloth is the " orbacci e panneddus," made of lambs' 
wool ; the second sort includes the coarse black, yellow, 
and red woollens, called tc sajale;" and the third is a com- 
mon sort of blanket, the " burras" of the huts and vil- 
lages. The linens, carpets, and " frassudas," or bed- 
covers, of Fonni, though coarse, are used every where, 
and yield a good profit to the manufacturers. A supe- 
rior light flannel, ** pannizzu," is made in the province 
of Sulcis, for swathing infants, and for shawls. 

Silk is as yet produced only for amusement, except at 
Dorgali, where a coarse kind is wove for sale. The 
towns of Galtelli, Sassari, Cuglieri, and Nuoro, have 
yielded a few pounds of inferior silk ; but the process 
throughout is ill understood, and a proprietor at Alghero 
is actually obliged to send his cocoons to Cagliari to be 
reeled off. Yet they are proud of their manufactures, 
though they perceive all the fine cloths come from 
abroad ; nor was much surprise manifested by a circle of 
villagers, to whom, in noticing the perfection attained in 
England, I instanced the celebrated experiment of shear- 
ing a sheep in the morning, causing its wool to pass 

I 2 



i 



116 PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 

through all the processes necessary to form cloth, and 
making that cloth into a coat, which was worn the same 
day at dinner: they only remarked, that the " gente 
manim" was in too great a hurry ! 

The cultivation of cotton is found so successful, that 
although not yet sufficient to form an article of export or 
manufacture, except being spun and knit into stockings, 
it would probably soon grow into importance, were not 
the gigantic efforts of Mahommed Ali, the viceroy of 
Egypt, likely to supply the markets of all Europe. 
This, however, was a consequence I so little anticipated 
when in Egypt two years before, that although his high- 
ness told me his expectations, and I was aware he pos- 
sessed both a mind to conceive, and ability to execute the 
greatest projects, I was pleased with the idea of further- 
ing so excellent a branch of cottage industry in Sardinia. 
I therefore took with me and distributed among the cul- 
tivators, from the viceroy downwards, a considerable 
quantity of the white and yellow cotton-seed of Malta, 
usually termed the Gallipoli and the Nankin, the staple 
of which combines both length and silkiness in an eminent 
degree ; whilst the pods yield more than a third of their 
weight in clean cotton. The soil and climate of the 
Campidano is evidently genial to its growth, and the cul- 
tivation, if properly increased, would afford employment 
to hundreds in ploughing, transplanting, clearing, and 
plucking; while the less active and the young may be 
busied in picking the web from the seed, and twisting 
yarn. As a specimen of political economy in a person 



OF SARDINIA, 



117 



high in office, I may relate that I was advised to be less 
liberal in my gifts, " Because," said my friend, " the 
more the culture is extended, the more the material will 
fall in value !" 

Madder grows wild in many parts of the island, yet 
both this and the little that is cultivated, are only used 
by the peasants for dyeing their coarse cloth, though it 
might be made a profitable branch of industry. The 
Lichens roccella, parellus, postulatus, tartareus, and co- 
rallinus, with other rock mosses for dyeing, common 
throughout the island, under the name of erba muscia, 
(the corcar of Scotland,) are annually collected to the 
amount of three or four thousand pounds value. But 
the beautiful tincture called, by Aristophanes and others, 
fid^x 2a§^ivt«Kov, is no longer known, though it was so 
greatly admired for its delicate vermillion hue, that 
" tinctura Sardiniaca" became a proverb to express the 
mantling blush of modest innocence. Perhaps the use of 
herbs, instead of testaceous animals, might have caused 
its neglect, for even in Pliny's time, we find the Gauls 
had " invented means to counterfeit the purple of Tyre, 
and scarlet, and violet, with all other devisable colours, 
with the juice only of certain herbs.'" (i The men," he 
continues, cc believe me, are wiser than their neighbours 
of other nations before them ; they hazard not themselves 
to sound and search into the bottom of the deep sea for 
burrets, porpurae, and such shell fishes. These adven- 
ture not their lives in strange coasts and blind bays, 
where never ship hath rid at anchor, offering their bodies 



118 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



as a prey to the monsters of the sea, while they seek to 
deprive them of their food, to provide that whereby un- 
chaste dames might bedeck themselves to allure and con- 
tent adulterous ruffians, as also those gallants again, who 
strutting thus in their gay colours, might court fair 
ladies and wedded wives.'" 

Amongst other exports may be enumerated the saffron 
of Sardara and San Luri; and the indifferent brandy 
made at Villa-Cidro, Gavoi, and S. Lussurgiu. Barilla 
is permitted to be cultivated only in the environs of Oris- 
tano, Cagliari, Quartu, and a few other places, as it is 
thought to impoverish the land, and render it unfit for 
corn for several years after. Nor is it allowed to be 
burnt near the capital, except during winds that render 
those grounds the leeward side of the city. Nearly nine 
thousand cantars are annually collected, exclusive of the 
" burdina," or produce of the wild plant, that flourishes 
in the arid land near the salterns. Galena, or native 
sulphuret of lead, for the use of potteries, is exported, 
and a very trifling quantity of metal. Stag-horns and 
bones are sent to Marseilles, to the amount of a hundred 
cantars per annum. About eighty cantars of sweet 
almonds, and sixty of bitter are exported, the produce of 
various tanche. Linen rags are shipped to the yearly 
amount of five thousand cantars ; they form a disgusting, 
though profitable cargo, and that art is much to be 
admired, which converts so unseemly an article into one 
so useful and beautiful as paper. 

The bullocks of Sardinia are of a small size, with very 



OF SARDINIA. 119 

long horns, but the beef is excellent in quality; the 
sheep are very tolerable, and may be had on reasonable 
terms; and the swine, especially in winter, are the best 
in Europe. Fine lard, hams, supressada and bacon, are 
exported to the amount of six or seven hundred cantars 
of each. It is, however, a singular trait of Sardinian 
character, that farmers dislike to sell their live-stock to 
any extent ; and though this disinclination is now wearing 
off, when the Russian fleet victualled at Cagliari, as late 
as 1770, it was with considerable difficulty the Viceroy 
could induce the people to part with their animals, as 
they complained that 66 the Muscovites were taking the 
meat out of their mouths P This peculiarity on the one 
hand, and the impolicy of heavy export duties on the 
other, disables the local trade from supplying its own 
transit, or returning a sufficient profit to the growers. 
It is discreditable that the peltry of their stock should be 
largely exported, for leather being so generally worn, 
could certainly be advantageously dressed in the island. 
Yet, except a little used by the lower classes from the 
indifferent tanneries at Sassari, Bosa, and Cagliari, the 
whole consumption consists of skins tanned at Marseilles, 
or other foreign places; as if the natives were uncon- 
scious of the commercial wealth, accruing from the appli- 
cation of labour and skill to raw materials. Of the hides 
of oxen I was unable to procure an exact return ; but of 
sheep-skins there are upwards of 25,000, and of goat- 
skins 20,000, embarked in September. Of kid or lamb- 
skins, about 60,000 are collected in January and Fe- 



120 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



bruary, and shipped in March and April. Among the 
yearly exports are also 4 or 5000 fox- skins, 2000 martin, 
and 60,000 rabbit and hare-skins, with about 5000 can- 
tars of cornucci, or dried skins, for making glue. 

The woods and forests abound with stags, mufflons, 
wild-boars, and all the variety of game. The stags are 
not large, and are chiefly found in the Nurra, Sulcis, 
Barbargia, and Gallura. The daino, or deer, a beautiful 
little animal, and one of the principal objects of chase, 
is very generally found in companies of twenty or thirty, 
and is less difficult to kill than the stag. The mufflon is a 
ruminating animal, frequenting only the highest and most 
secluded woods, where from its timidity and fleetness, it 
is with difficulty shot. The male is named " murvoni," 
and the female " murva," but it is not unusual to hear 
the peasants indiscriminately denominate them " mufion;" 
this is a palpable corruption of the Greek ophion, an 
animal quoted by Pliny as less than a stag, but like it in 
hair, though he erroneously supposed the race to be 
utterly extinct. The form of the ears, head, legs, and 
hoof, identify the mufflon with the sheep, although in size 
it is rather larger, and is moreover clothed with hair 
instead of wool. The horns are neither full nor decidu- 
ous, but hollow, and precisely similar to those of the 
ram, while the bleat is the same ; it propagates also very 
readily with sheep, the mixed produce being the "umbro." 
Though it is so shy in its wild state, the mufflon soon 
accommodates itself to domestic habits ; and I saw one 
belonging to the archbishop Navoni, the hospitable pri- 



OF SARDINIA. 



121 



mate of the island, singularly tame and playful, of which 
this is a sketch. 




The fisheries of Sardinia have been extremely produc- 
tive, but are almost entirely managed by strangers. 
There are tonnare, or establishments for taking the 
tunny-fish, at the Saline, on the north coast, and at Flu- 
mentargiu, Porto-Paglia, Porto- Scus, Piana islet, Cala- 
Vinagra, and Cala-Sapone, on the west coast. The shoal 
annually enters the Mediterranean early in the spring, 
skirts along the shores of Spain and France, then de- 
scending by Corsica, some escape through the straits of 
Bonifacio, while the rest pursue their course towards the 
Black Sea, round the south end of Sardinia, but tarry 
there from April to July. From these circumstances 
the northernmost tonnare are called Windw ard, and the 
southerly Leeward ; hearty, therefore, are the prayers at 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



S. Pietro and Porto-Scus, that damage may befal the 
windward nets. The devotion heretofore paid to Nep- 
tune, invoked under the name of Alexicacus, to preserve 
the tunny-nets from the sword of the Xiphias, is now 
transferred to a Catholic saint, selected by lot. That the 
tunny is bred in muddy water seems notorious from the 
various names, Palamide, Limosa, and Limaria. It is 
said to be much harassed on these shores by the Assilo, a 
winged insect, resembling a scorpion, four lines long and 
one broad, having a small compressed head, body cylin- 
drical below, and broad wings of a dark yellow ; found in 
damp places, and on the sea shore. It stings the tunny 
where the skin is thinnest, near the first dorsal fin, which 
almost drives it mad, occasioning the fish to throw itself 
about in such an extraordinary manner, as to fall panting 
on the sands. This fact was known to the ancients, and 
is well described in the second book of the Halieutics of 
Oppian. Both the sword-fish and anchovy are now 
become scarce here, and the same may be said even of 
the sardines, though it is inferred they must have been 
extremely abundant when they acquired this name. The 
natives with more religious submission than philosophic 
judgment, ascribe this failure to the will and pleasure of 
the Almighty, whereas the natural cause is probably some 
accidental obstructions to the lodging of their spawn, 
which is thereby deprived of the protection indispensable 
to the existence of the egg. In 1824, the fishing of an- 
chovies, which was wont to commence in May and con- 
tinue to August, was prohibited by government till the 



OF SARDINIA. 



123 



1st of July, in order that the tonnare might meet no 
interruption. The visits of migratory fish, however, are 
generally capricious, and even the tunny has also for some 
years been gradually failing, so that the produce of many 
of the tonnare, during the last two or three seasons, has 
scarcely repaid the expenses of the establishments. Those 
tunnies which do not weigh a hundred pounds, are called 
" scampirri, 11 all under three hundred " mezzi tonni," 
and all above that weight, " tonni." All the several 
parts of the fish are turned to account, and most of them 
salted separately; but the 66 sorra," or belly pieces, and 
the " netta," or shoulder pieces, are scalded and packed 
in oil, as the most delicate portions. The vivacity and 
bustle on the coast is renewed at every 64 mattanza," or 
drawing of the nets, and the first tunny of each is sent 
to the viceroy. To afford an idea of the proportion 
of profit, however, in one of the most favoured spots, 
although in the present fallen state of the fishery, I sub- 
join the following details of the 3680 tunnies, caught at 
the Saline in 1823, with the prices in new lire of Sar- 
dinia, which at the average rate of exchange for that 
year, might be estimated at about 9d. sterling. 

EXPENSES. 

Sardinian Lire. Pounds sterling. 

Hire of the Tonnara 30,000 or 1125 

Wear and tear of the nets . . . 30,000 ,, 1125 

Oil to preserve part 24,000 „ 900 

Cost of barrels 17,000 „ 637 

Food of the men 15,000 ,, 562 

Salaries to ditto 10,000 „ 375 

Vessels and boats 12,000 450 

5174 



124 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



RECEIPTS. 

Sardinian Lire. Pound* sterling. 



Preserved in oil, 1740 kegs . . 


1 C A AAA 

150,000 


,, 5625 


Salted .... 


. 4000 ditto . . 


200,000 


„ 7500 


Mosciami . . 


. 150 cantars . 


15,000 


„ 562 


Tunny oil . . 


. 125 ditto . 


10,750 


„ 403 


Botarghe . . . 


. 100 ditto 1 


16,000 


„ 600 


Interior parts . 


. 250 ditto j ' 








14,690 




Expenses . 




5174 








. £9516 



Besides the coast fisheries, the lakes at Oristano, 
Cagliari, and Porto Pino, abound with extremely fine 
mullet, bream, eels, and other fish; which being carefully 
fattened, renders them a staple article of consumption 
and commerce, of considerable profit to the proprietors. 
But notwithstanding this supply, and the variety and 
abundance of the finny tribe on the coasts, the tables of 
the middle and lower classes of Sardinia are scantily fur- 
nished with fish, an anomaly arising from the taxes, and 
the want of native fishermen. The markets, therefore, 
of the largest cities offer, during Lent, a strange scene of 
eagerness and confusion ; and even at Cagliari, I have 
seen the guards obliged to charge on the assembled crowd, 
to prevent the destruction of the railing that defended 
the fishermen's property. 

The coral fisheries have been long known, as the 
ancients sought the article to ornament their shields and 
helmets. The best are on the west and south coasts, 
where two or three hundred boats arrive annually, from 
Naples and Genoa, for the express purpose of fishing for 



OF SARDINIA. 



125 



it; paying only a small duty for anchorage, and an im- 
post of about five per cent, on the produce of their 
labours. The fishery off Alghero is in great esteem ; it 
commences in March and ends in October, each felucca 
generally collecting coral to the value of about 1500 
dollars, at the rate of 6|<i. per English pound weight. 
The outfit of the boats is not at all expensive, as the 
coral nets are little better than swabs, which being 
dragged along the bottom, get entangled with the branches 
and break them off. Small pieces of the acorus, or blue 
coral, have been found, but not of so clear a tint as that 
of the Indian seas. A very curious specimen was fished 
up in the straits of Bonifacio in 1823; it was a human 
skull, with coral branches spreading out from each of the 
eyes and other apertures. 

A quantity of pearls, though of a very indifferent qua- 
lity, is obtained from the pinna nobilis^ which abounds in 
the smooth water of shallow bays, as at Porto Conte and 
Liscia. This shell is of extraordinary size, measuring 
from fifteen to twenty-seven inches in length, and is 
sought for on account of the tuft of silky hair, the byssus 
of Aristotle, which is attached to it. These filaments 
are of a glossy brown colour, and being about eight 
inches in length are easily spun into gloves, stockings, or 
other articles of dress. The pinna adheres with the 
small end to the ground, and when the bottom is sandy 
is readily drawn out; but on clay or rock the byssus 
cleaves so strongly, that the shell is often broken in the 
attempt to disengage it. We got upwards of a hundred 



126 PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 

of them at a fishing, during calm weather, by merely 
dropping a rope over them made into a noose, by what 
seamen call a running bowline knot. Each shell con- 
tained one or more of the little Cancer pinnophylax, a 
crab which appears to be a voluntary inhabitant of this 
bivalve, and gives countenance to the popular idea of its 
being placed there by nature to assist its host, by its 
sagacity in catching food and avoiding danger; an opi- 
nion which prevails as much at present as in the days of 
Oppian and Pliny, the latter of whom says, in some seas 
it was substituted by a shrimp. The pinna usually lies 
wide open to attract food, when the crab sallies out; but 
on perceiving an enemy, particularly if one of the poly- 
pus race, instantly regains his testaceous alcove, and 
communicating the alarm, his protector wards off the ap- 
proaching peril by firmly closing the shell. 

Such are the agricultural and commercial resources of 
one of the finest islands in the Mediterranean, and which 
from being more than usually favoured by nature, ought 
to render a more important return than the following 
extracts display ; although I by no means wish to imply, 
that either happiness or greatness spring from that 
" Sabbathless" pursuit of wealth, which distinguishes some 
other countries. The public revenues are direct, and in- 
direct : in the first are included the donations, or taxes 
voted with the consent of the Stamenti, and the contri- 
butions for the royal expenses, which are thus stated for 
the year 1824, in francs. 



OF SARDINIA. 



127 



Ordinary donative 262,800 

Extraordinary donative 271,340 

Donation to the Queen 120,000 

For the posts, roads, and bridges . 89,260 

The interior administration . . . . 102,430 

The ecclesiastical subsidy .... 17,100 

Forage and royal patrimony . . . 143,320 

Total . . . 1006,250 



The indirect revenue is derived from a more fluctu- 
ating source, as follows : 

The customs ....... 879,000 

Salt-works . . . ....... 237,440 

Tobacco 404,200 

Gunpowder ....... 37,790 

Mines 22,340 

Fisheries 107,590 

Registers, fines, and casuals . . 53,870 



Total ... 1,742,230 



A more extended commerce would place the last of 
these statements on a widely different footing; but where 
native industry is wanting, compulsory measures are of 
little avail, — or, at most, reluctantly obeyed. The im- 
politic restriction which is placed on the exportation of 
live-stock from the capital, occasions such an irregularity 
in the supply, that English ships seldom repair thither 
for that object. It would be unjust, however, to pass, 
without notice, the zeal of the British Consul-General, 
George Bomester, Esq., in all matters relating to the 
rights and privileges of the flag of his country. 

In conclusion, it may be illustrative of what has now 
been advanced, to show the average of the population, 



128 



PRODUCE AND RESOURCES 



agriculture, and quantity of live stock, given in a de- 
tailed statistical report to Government of the ten years 
between 1815 and 1825. 



POPULATION. 

Adults 316,929 

Children 83,678 

Absent 1,138 

PRODUCE. 

Starelli sowed. Starelli reaped. 

Wheat 269,383 . . . 1,254,982 

Barley ..... 97,718 . . . 358,000 

Legumes ........ 67,845 . . . 221,580 

LIVE STOCK. 

Mansi. Rudi. 

Horses . . . , 28,800 . . 19,900 

Oxen ..... 94,100 . . 148,622 

Cows 12,872 . . 

Calves .... 7,600 . . 

Sheep .... „ . . 802,930 

Goats .... „ . . 245,900 

Kids „ . . 299,481 

Swine .... 23,314 . . 150,140 



OF SARDINIA. 



Chapter III. 
OF THE INHABITANTS OF SARDINIA. 

Sardinia, having had the misfortune always to be a 
dependant state, though not wholly subjected, has usually 
been under the charge of deputed governors, whose tran- 
sient reigns have been too often marked by impolicy and 
rapacity. It is at present ruled by a Viceroy for the house 
of Savoy, who during a term of three years exercises the 
prerogatives of royalty under certain modifications, on a 
salary of 60,000 livres. On receiving his appointment, 
the viceroy is exposed to an embarrassing anomaly; he is 
sworn at Turin to execute all his majesty's private in- 
structions, and on his arrival at Cagliari, he takes a solemn 
oath to preserve inviolate the statutes and privileges of 
the island — though several of these may be quite contrary 
to the line of conduct, which he had bound himself to 
execute a few days before. 

The second person in the state, is the Regent or Great 
Chancellor, who presides over the tribunals for the general 
administration of the kingdom, on a salary of 3000 
scudi. The island is divided into 10 prefectures, 32 
districts, and 360 communes ; the civil affairs of the cities 
are regulated by a bench of magistrates under the "capo 

K 



130 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



giurato," or principal judge; and those of the communes 
by a council of from three to seven members under a 
syndic. These courts are amenable to the audit of the 
intendant-general of finance, an office of great import- 
ance, and usually holden for three years. 

The national concerns are discussed by a"representative 
parliament, called the Stamenti, consisting of the three 
orders of the state : the first, or Stamento ecclesiastico, 
selected from the prelates, speaks through the voice of the 
archbishop of Cagliari ; the second, or military chamber, 
comprehends all those nobles, with or without fiefs, who 
are above twenty years of age, and speaks through the 
most ancient feudal nobleman ; whilst the third, or royal 
chamber, is composed of the towns and communes, under 
the capo giurato of the capital. Each stamento holds its 
sittings apart, the first chamber in the sacristy of the ca- 
thedral, the second in the chapel of the Concezione, and 
the third in the town-hall. After separately discussing 
the matter under debate, they communicate by deputies ; 
but it is not a little remarkable, that the deliberations 
of the ecclesiastical voice, respecting donatives, must be 
submitted to the pope for his approbation, previous to 
passing into a law. The stamenti being convened and 
holden at the king's pleasure, are consequently seldom in 
strong opposition to the regal desires ; yet it is forbidden 
to appear at the sittings in the royal uniform. 

The feudal system is in full activity, though the 
signorial rights vary according to the investiture;" but 
the lord is required in all cases to assist his vassals, and 



OF SARDINIA. 



131 



to support them during imprisonment. Notwithstanding 
their baronial power, peers are, in the eye of the law, 
equally subject with commoners to civil and criminal prose- 
cutions ; with the privilege, however, of delaying their an- 
swer to any questions for twenty- six days. The children 
of noblemen, where there is no " fide commessi," or entail, 
generally share the patrimony equally between them at 
the father's death, except the married daughters, who, 
having received their dowry, can urge no further claim ; 
but where there are fiefs, the right of primogeniture is 
strictly observed. Besides manorial peers, of whom only- 
one, the Lord of Anglona, bears the title of prince, there 
is a very numerous class of inferior nobles and knights, 
who, by virtue of their birth or honours, have the privi- 
lege of carrying arms, and are exempt from the vexatious 
decisions of petty judges, and the drudgery of personal 
signorial attendance. These, in common with the priests, 
pay nothing to the feudal lord, but only to the king, the 
clergy, and the prefecture. In levying taxes, or dona- 
tives, (as they are styled by government,) the head of each 
family is summoned to payment by the comptroller of 
the respective villages, according to an attested list, and 
pays in proportion to his estimated means. 

Although vassals in Sardinia are born free, and can 
change their lord and residence at will, the degrading 
services and tenures of feudalism are still in vigour, in 
most parts of the island. The dependance of a peasant 
on his baron commences when he is deemed capable of 
earning his bread, and an annual tribute, either in money 

K 2 



132 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



or kind, is exacted on all abate the age of eighteen ; be- 
sides the usual imposts on the lands and stock; the 
contributions demanded for prisons, robberies, arson, 
and exemption from the " roadia, 1 ' or one day's per- 
sonal labour, as well as from other dominical services. 
These taxes are levied in addition to the church tithes, 
the royal imposts, alms (as they are termed) to mendi- 
cant coenobites, and other grinding extortions, which 3 in 
some parts of the Marmilla, amount, in the aggregate, to 
nearly seventy per cent, on the earnings of the vassal ! 
Yet the advocates of this baneful system assert, that the 
petty farmers are not rendered poor by the weight of the 
exactions, but feel them merely because they are poor. 
Most of the laws in force are comprehended in the Carta 
de Logu, already mentioned in the first Chapter, amended 
by the successive acts of the Stamenti, the Pragmatic 
edicts of Philip IV. and the various Pregoni, or de- 
crees of the viceroys ; forming, on the whole, a curious 
mixture of ancient and modern legislature. A few ex- 
tracts from so unique a Code may be amusing, as exhi- 
biting a specimen of the language of Arborea, and the 
social compact of the ancient state of the island. 

CAP. XXXII. 



Volemus ed ordinamus, chi, si alcuna 
persona furavit lavori, messadu, over sen- 
za messari, ed esserit dessu Renmi, pa- 
ghit pro s'unu deghi; e si esserit de Ec- 
clesia, over de altera persona, paghit pro 
s'unu chimbi, s'ind' est binchida, e pro 
machicia paghit liras bindighe ; e si non 
pagat issa, over atter' homini pro see, 
seghitsilla tin' origla. 



We will and order, that if any person 
steals corn, reaped or not reaped, belong- 
ing to the Kingdom, he shall pay ten for 
one ; and if belonging to the Church, or 
any other person, he shall pay five for 
one, if he is convicted of it, and as a fine 
he shall pay fifteen livres ; and if he does 
not pay, or some one else for him, one of 
his ears shall be cut off. 



OF SARDINIA. 



133 



CAP. 

Item ordiuamus, chi nexuna femina, 
chi sia Fante di lettu angiena, e chi nun 
siat mugeri legittima usit, nen deppiat 
levari dae sa domu dess' habitacioni, chi 
fagherint impari cun s'Amighu, cos' alcu- 
na dess' homini suo contra sa voluntadi 
de cussu, sutta pena d'esser cundannada, 
e punida pro fura, secundu ch'in su Capi- 
dulu dessas fnras si contenit, e siat tenu- 
da de restituiri sas cosas furadas, e leva- 
das : e simili pena s'intendat ass' Amighu, 
chi levarit contra sa voluntadi dess' Ami- 
ga cosas proprias. 



"We order also, that no woman who is 
any man's bedfellow, or who is not his 
legitimate wife, shall dare take away from 
their mutual place of dwelling of herself 
and her friend, any thing belonging to the 
man against his will, under pain of being 
condemned and punished for theft, accord- 
ing to what is contained in the chapter on 
thefts, and shall be held to restore the 
articles stolen and taken away: and a 
similar punishment is intended against 
the friend, who shall take any thing away 
against his friend's will belonging to her. 



CAP. LXII. 



Item ordinamus, chi ass' homini, chi hat 
a dimandari chertadori, non siat tenuda 
sa Corona de ind' illi dari, salvu si s' ho- 
mini volerit esser chertadori a voluntadi, 
e plagheri suo : e nientidiminus volemus, 
chi si deppeat dari chertadori a Eccle- 
sias, e a logos religiosus, chi non hant a 
haviri armentargios issoru ; e simili a 
viduas, a orfanus, e a poveras istrangeris, 
e mercantis, ch' indi dimandarint, e non 
havirint armentargios issoru. 



We order also, that to the man who 
asks for a pleader, the Corona * shall not 
be held to give one, though the man may 
be his own pleader if he chooses: and 
nevertheless we will, that a pleader shall 
be given to Churches, and religious places 
that have no pleader or defender of their 
own : the same to widows and orphans, 
and poor strangers, and merchants, who 
should ask for them, not having defenders 
of their own. 



Of the ordinances which were found too severe, and 
have since been modified by the Pragmatic and Stamenti 
decrees, the following are amongst the most remarkable : — 



CAP. XXVI. 



Volemus ed ordinamus, chi si alcuna 
persona furarit alcuna cosa sagrada, dae 
alcuna Ecclesia o de domu de Ecclesia, 
cio est paramentos, libros, e calighis, o 
attera cosa sagrada, ed est indi binchida 
per testimongias, over ch' illu confessarit, 
paghit pro sa fura primargia assa Eccle- 
sia pro uno chimbi, ed assu Rennu pro sa 
machicia liras chimbanta ; e si non pagat 



We will and order, that if any person 
steals any thing from a church, or from 
a house belonging to a church, that is, 
dresses, books, or chalices, or any other 
sacred thing, and is convicted of the same 
by witnesses, or by his own confession, he 
shall pay to the church for his first theft 
five for one, and to the state a fine of fifty 
livres ; and if he does not pay five for one, 



* Corone are sittings of magistrates, said to be thus termed from their sitting in 
a circle. 



134 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



sas liras chimbanta, e pro s'unu chimbi, 
secundu clii est naradu de supra, boghit- 
silli un oghiu ; e dae sa fura primargia 
innantis siat impicadu, ch' indi morgiat, 
e non campit pro denari. 

CAP. 

Item ordinamus, chi alcun homini, chi 
hat a jurari pro testimongiu falsu, s' indi 
est binchidu, paghit liras chimbanta infra 
diesbindighi, da chi hat a esser giuygadu ; 
e si non pagat, siat illi missidu nn amu in 
sa limba, e giugatsi affrastandu per tota 
sa Terra infini assu muntonargiu, ed innie 
s' illi tagit sa limba, e lassint illu andari, 
e plus nolli siat dada fidi pro testimongiu. 



and the fine of fifty livres, one of his eyes 
shall be plucked out ; and after the first 
theft, he shall be hung till he dies, and 
shall not live for money. 

LXXVI. 

We also order, that if any man swears 
as a false witness, if he is convicted of it, 
he shall pay fifty livres within fifteen days 
of the time he is condemned; and if he 
does not pay, a hook shall be put into his 
tongue, and he shall be flogged through- 
out the town unto the dunghill, where his 
tongue shall be cut out, and he shall be 
let go, and faith no more given him as a 
witness. 



CAP. CXXVIII. 



Pro chi Deus Omnipotenti si debit supra 
totas cosas onorari, tenniri, e guardari, 
ed obediri, ed appressu sa gloriosa Vir- 
gini Madonna Santa Maria, ed issos Apos- 
tolos, e Santos, e Santas de Deus, consti- 
tuimus ed ordinamus, chi qualunca per- 
sona, de qualunca condicioni siat, chi hat 
a blastimari a Deus, over a Santa Maria, 
ed illi hat a esser provadu, siat conden- 
nada in liras chimbanta, sas qualis dep- 
piat pagari infra dies bindighi, posca chi 
hat a esser condennada; e si non pagat 
infra su dittu tempus, mittat silli un amu 
in sa limba, e siatsilli tagiada, pro modo 
ch' illu perdat: e si blastimerit alcunu 
santu, o santa, siat condennada in liras 
ventichimbi, sas qualis deppiat pagari 
infra dies bindighi, posca chi hat a esser 
condennada ; e si non pagat infra su dittu 
tempus, mittatsilli un amu in sa limba, 
e cun issu siat frustada per tota sa terra, 
hui hat a averi delinquidu, o fattu su de- 
littu, e non happat attera pena. 



Since above all things the Omnipotent 
God ought to be honoured, held, regarded, 
and obeyed, and next to him the glorious 
Virgin St. Mary, and the Apostles, and 
the male and female Saints of God, we 
constitute and ordain, that whatever per- 
son, of whatever condition he may be, 
who shall curse God or St. Mary, and it 
shall be proved against him, shall be con- 
demned to pay fifty livres within fifteen 
days after condemnation ; and if he does 
not pay within the said time, a hook shall 
be put into his tongue, and it shall be cut 
so that he lose it; and if he swears 
against any male or female Saint, he 
shall be condemned to pay twenty-five 
livres within fifteen days after condemna- 
tion ; and if he does not pay it within the 
said time, a hook shall be put into his 
tongue, and with it he shall be flogged all 
round the town, where he committed the 
crime, and not to have any further pu- 
nishment. 



The numerous forms, which are grafted upon these 
laws, have considerably embarrassed the progress of 
justice, and created so great a confusion, as to make a 



OF SARDINIA. 



135 



swarm of advocates become a necessary evil, and the 
means of legal redress both expensive and tedious. The 
ordinances of the viceroys, if enacted in council, become 
permanent ; but those emanating from himself alone, are 
in force during his viceregency only. They are proclaimed 
through the towns and villages by a crier called Ci su Pre- 
goneri," who beats a drum at the corner of each street, 
and when the inhabitants come to their doors, recites 
his orders. When he has finished this (( ghettai sa grida," 
the auditors, if content with the tenor of the decree, shout 
applause, but if otherwise, they retire in silence. In 
the Barbargia, Ollolai, and other mountainous parts, it is 
difficult to procure respect to an unpopular pregone; and 
so little are most of those peasants acquainted with po- 
litics, that on the promulgation of the late decrees against 
bearing arms, considerable anger was excited, and some 
of the elders threatened to complain of the encroachment 
to the Court of Madrid ! The country judges are ex- 
tremely poor ; and venality is so common, that sentences 
are just and equitable, only when the government takes a 
criminal matter in hand. This is one of the leading causes 
of the assassinations, which have so stigmatized the island. 
It is an acknowledged difficult task to work a reform in 
detail: for if a magistrate proves himself more than 
usually active in his office, he is sure to rouse the venge- 
ance of adverse partisans ; and the effect of the whole sys- 
tem and practice is a melancholy want of security, both 
of persons and property. Thus at Bortigiadas, a village 
beautifully situated on the side of a mountain in Galium, 



136 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



the inhabitants, having taken an aversion to the bishop, 
killed two rectors who were successively appointed there 
by that prelate. The present incumbent is wisely re- 
siding at Tempio, leaving his flock to a capuchin, whom 
they permit to remain as their ghostly adviser. 

In tribunal examinations, the arguments of the advocates 
are valued according to their rhetorical excellence, and 
are therefore more subtle than solid, endeavouring to blind 
justice by exciting the passions. Nor do the judges re- 
cognize the golden rule, which protects the accused from 
criminating himself by replying to interrogatories, de- 
signedly meant to browbeat and entrap him. To the 
honour of humanity, the savage custom of torture has 
lately been abolished, and the horrid tree for mangling 
and dislocating limbs, which stood on the bastion of Sta. 
Croce in Cagliari, was pulled down amidst the plaudits 
and execrations of the people in 1821 ; but culprits are 
still, in various cases, flogged through the streets upon 
an ass, previous to execution, especially when the militia 
or other soldiers have been wounded in apprehending 
them. When a criminal is hanged for aggravated mur- 
der, the body is condemned to be also burnt, after being 
hacked in the arms and thighs with a large knife by the 
assistant executioners ; the corpse is then extended upon 
a pile of wood, when the belly is ripped open, and the 
head cut off and nailed upon the top of the gallows. 
Besides this, a fine is levied for costs, and for indemnifica- 
tion of the injury done, to the heirs of the murdered per- 
son, exclusive of another fine of two hundred scudi for 



OF SARDINIA. 



137 



the abuse of the gun, if the victim was shot. Women 
condemned to death are executed in male attire. When 
a felon is sentenced to the galleys, he is paraded through 
the streets heavily ironed, and with his head shaved and 
uncovered, between four armed men, and a trumpeter 
marching before them. Nobles are tried by a jury of 
seven peers, but, unless for high-treason, are never hanged, 
a kind of guillotine being used to decollate them ; and it 
must be mentioned to their honour, that only three have 
been executed during the last fifty years. Knights and 
lawyers are also entitled to this privilege, and to have 
their sentence executed by the <c mannaju," or head- 
executioner, who is esteemed more expert than his 
assistant. 

The law is one of the very few professions for youths 
of respectable connexions in Sardinia, which confers any 
considerable distinction. The highest rank amongst the 
lawyers is that of belonging to the " Supremo Real Con- 
siglio," a court composed of seven members, residing at 
Turin. The second rank is that of being a member of 
the " Real Udienza," consisting of two tribunals, a civil 
and a criminal one; the former having eight members 
and a president, and the latter five; the president's salary 
is 1000 scudi, and that of each of the others 500, exclu- 
sive of fees : from these courts there is no appeal, though 
supplication to royal prerogative may be made. At Ca- 
gliari there is a commercial institution, called the " Con- 
solato as also the " tribunal of contentions," a special 
court for questions between the ecclesiastical and secular 



9 



138 OF THE INHABITANTS 

powers, from whence there is no appeal. The judge of 
this bench must be a priest, and is generally of a noble 
family. He is styled the Apostolic Royal Chancellor, and 
has the deliberate advice of any " giudice togato" whom 
he may choose to call in to his assistance. The chancel- 
lor's decision must be preceded by the opinion of an 
arbitrator for each of the contending parties ; for if they 
agree within five days, the affair terminates ; but if not, 
the chancellor has thirty days allowed him to consider 
the case, and five in order to decide it, beyond which 
time the result must be in favour of the ecclesiastics. 
At Sassari there is the " Real Governazione," formed by 
four advocates and a regent ; a tribunal of commerce, 
and some secondary courts. To each of the departments 
there is a prefect, a subprefect, and a secretary, the two 
former of whom are lawyers, on salaries of 550 scudi 
each, and the latter has 350. In 1824, the pleaders in 
Cagliari amounted to 104, and at Sassari to 55, besides a 
multitude of notaries. The inferior tribunals are of two 
sorts — »" Vicariati," consisting of a vicar, an assessor, and 
a secretary; and " Curie Pedane," or village courts, 
composed of a delegate and two scribes, whose province 
is to decide in all petty cases ; whence, however, there is 
appeal to the prefectures, and from thence again to the 
superior courts. 

The established religion is the Roman Catholic ; which, 
by the vivific and vivacious doctrine of immutable infalli- 
bility, assuming exclusive salvation, its disciples are bound 
by their hopes and their fears to accredit all its tenets, 



OF SARDINIA. 



139 



without the exercise of individual judgment; and the 
forms of worship are consequently every where the same. 
Indeed, from this cause and the want of intellectual cul- 
tivation, heresy is unknown in Sardinia, so that the 
Inquisitors have had but little employment. This is a 
fact much vaunted by the priests, though with as little 
reason as Algiers can boast of unity of political opinion, 
where death would be sure to follow free discussion. 
There are three archbishoprics and eight bishoprics in 
the island : the former consisting of Cagliari, Sassari, and 
Oristano; and the latter of Iglesias, Ales, Bosa, Alghero, 
Ozieri, Ogliastra, Galtelli e Nuoro, and Ampurias e 
Civita. The archbishop of Cagliari is styled primate of 
Sardinia and Corsica, a title also assumed by the arch- 
bishop of Sassari, but the latter is not recognised as such 
at the court of Rome. The bishops, though recommended 
through the king for confirmation, are selected from a 
list of candidates presented by the Royal Audience of 
Sardinia. On the death, however, of a bishop, as the 
government receives the revenue of the see during the 
interval, the vacancy is seldom supplied under three or 
four years. The canons and beneficed clergy amount to 
nearly four hundred, who principally reside in the larger 
cities; the spiritual duties of the towns and villages 
being performed by priests under the name of rectors or 
vicars, the last of whom receive only a quarter of the 
income of the benefice. The whole of this body is called 
the secular clergy, and many of its members are remark- 
able for the attention with which they inspect their flocks, 



140 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



and bestow their instruction and admonition. Yet the 
moral turpitude of a great portion of the islanders proves, 
that numbers of their pastors are infinitely more zealous 
in enforcing the ordinances of the church, respecting 
masses, indulgences, and tithes, than in inculcating those 
of God, on the sins of robbery, arson, murder, and false 
testimony. 

The regular clergy consist of the re-established Jesuits, 
of the brothers of the Scuole Pie, who are occupied in 
the education of youth, and of the several mendicant 
orders, whose various establishments amount to ninety 
convents for men, and fourteen for women ; not, how- 
ever, to be considered as in a flourishing state, since the 
individuals belonging to them do not quite amount to 
1500. Of all the Benedictine, Cistercensian, and Cal- 
maldolean monks, who under the judges enjoyed large 
possessions, none remain ; from one cause or other they 
abandoned all their abbeys and priories, some of which 
were afterwards occupied by minor brethren : but most 
of them fell to ruin, in which state there are several that 
fully attest the wealth and taste of their founders, and 
even four of these dilapidated edifices confer each a vote in 
the Stamen ti of the kingdom. The ecclesiastical revenues 
are about a million of francs, derived from the " decmm," 
or tithe on cattle and agricultural produce, and the fees 
of the " stola," on matrimony, baptism, and burial; ex- 
clusive of a trifle raised by the sale of indulgences, by 
which people may commit the otherwise mortal sin of 
eating eggs, butter, and flesh during Lent. Youths 



OF SARDINIA. 



141 



intended for holy orders have easy access to the means of 
receiving a good and suitable education at the Tridentine 
seminaries, which are attached to every cathedral ; and the 
superior classes are, therefore, usually fully capable of 
executing the duties of their several charges. But their 
erudition is more scholastic and casuistical, than general 
or classical ; for too many of their best years are wasted 
in studying the superstitious dogmata, and unmeaning 
abstractions of the Fathers. The preachers are generally 
loud in their harangues, the voice and action being 
rather indicative of impassioned emotion than pious ex- 
hortation ; the sermons are sometimes in the Sard lan- 
guage, at others in the Italian. 

The Sards are of a middle stature and well shaped, 
with dark eyes and coarse black hair ; except in the 
mountains, where fresh complexions and blue eyes are 
also met with. In the Campidano they are more swarthy 
than in the Capo di Sopra, whilst a large mouth and 
thick lips give them a more Celtic appearance. They 
have strong intellectual faculties, though uncultivated, 
and an enthusiastic attachment to their country : in- 
deed, no where can the love of the " natale solum" 
be stronger, — hence they are not liable to that dispersion 
of families, and consequent relaxation of domestic affec- 
tions, so general, either from choice or necessity, in more 
populous dominions. They are kind and hospitable, 
with a pleasing frankness of address, but, though active 
when excited, are extremely indolent in general. Their 
good qualities are counterbalanced by cunning, dissimula- 



142 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



tion, and an insatiable thirst for revenge, — vices that 
tend to foster implacable animosities in families, and oc- 
casion those numerous murders which disgrace the island. 
Their mode of gratifying vengeance is not by open chal- 
lenge, or what we should deem a manly defiance, but by 
lying in wait, often for entire days, in some secluded 
spot, until the object of their hatred passing by, affords 
them the opportunity of a shot, which is generally fatal. 
As they are accustomed to the gun from a very early age, 
they are capital marksmen, and one of the principal 
amusements of the country is the " tirar alia rnira," or 
firing at a small piece of money called " cagliarese," 
which after some practice they are seldom known to miss. 
This exercise is encouraged and promoted by the elders, 
with the avowed object of qualifying the minds and 
habits of their youth for the vindictive principles with 
which they are afterwards so strongly imbued, that few 
instances have occurred in which a generous sympathy 
has been awakened in favour of a fallen enemy. The 
proneness to revenge, which is thus incited, is the cause of 
the hordes of banditti who infest the mountainous parts 
of the island, and who were until lately so numerous, 
that it was admitted as a matter of course, that there 
must be "malviventi" wherever woods, hills, and grottoes 
prevail. Most of them are men flying from justice in 
consequence of having committed homicide from personal 
quarrels or acrimonious family feuds, in which -whole 
villages sometimes become involved ; and their frequency 
is increased by the ferocious sentiments which the Sards 



OF SARDINIA. 



143 



entertain, of its being more honourable to be shot, than 
to die in a bed. Instances frequently occur wherein the 
offence is so trivial, that it is difficult for the adversaries 
to adduce a reason for the inveterate hatred so mani- 
fested ; thus in 1823 a feud was settled at the fair of 
Luogo Santo, which had continued upwards of thirty 
years, though both parties had entirely forgotten the 
origin of the dispute ! These outlaws are not in the 
habit of molesting strangers, and one of them, on my 
inquiring if I could pass the haunt of his companions in 
safety, assured me of a free passage, as his brethren were 
not robbers, " but only assassins," implying that they had 
murdered honourably for revenge, and not meanly for 
profit. There are numbers, however, who steal cattle and 
sheep, and others who do not disdain to rifle travellers ; the 
most rapacious of whom are on the east coast, about the 
mountains of Dorgali, Galtelli, Posada, and the neigh- 
bourhood of Terranova, where the passes are so difficult 
that troops cannot act against them. I was once met on an 
excursion by four of these people, who, finding I was an 
Englishman, only requested some gunpowder, and, after 
a few general observations, withdrew. I could scarcely 
have imagined them to be outlaws of the savage character 
which they bear, had I not observed, though my guide 
smiled frequently, the effort was evidently Sardonic, and 
accompanied with profuse perspiration ; — the moment he 
found we were actually in safety, he devoutly crossed 
himself, and then gave his tongue unbridled license in 
their abuse. 



144 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Sard honour, like that of chivalry, reconciles an hete- 
rogeneous union of violence and religion, bravery and 
cruelty; and produces an enthusiasm that has often 
checked the unjust lords of the soil in their career of 
avarice, lust, and tyranny. The widow of a murdered 
man carefully preserves her husband's bloody shirt, and 
displays it at stated periods to her children, who are 
bound to revenge their fathers death as soon as they 
become capable. Just before my last visit to Maddalena, 
a little boy was brought thither from the opposite coast 
of Gallura, who had been desperately wounded in an 
attack which proved fatal to his father, two uncles, and a 
brother, and the rival family thought all their enemies 
were destroyed. But a shepherd conveyed the stripling 
safely over in the night; — with the assistance of a sur- 
geon he was speedily recovered, and his mother is now 
rearing him in daily execration of those " that have eaten 
his father.'" At Bonorva, I was shown over the house 
and grounds of Don Prunas Pes, a wealthy man, whose 
riches amounted to one hundred signs of cattle. Yet, un- 
able to brook the prosperity of his neighbours, he took 
opportunities of destroying their produce ; and at length 
proceeded so far as maliciously to kill twelve fine horses 
belonging to Antonio Pio, who being of some consider- 
ation, obliged the offender to seek safety by remaining 
constantly at home, amidst his armed adherents and 
mastiffs. After a time Pes relaxed his precautions and 
went to church, on the festival of St. Peter, in June 
1817; but on his return, although his partisans were 



OF SARDINIA. 



145 



numerous, he was shot dead at noonday, in the high 
street. This was related to me by a connexion of the 
deceased, and in concluding he remarked, with an 
expression of ineffable contempt, that the son of Pes 
was a spiritless, miserable wretch, who Hved in despicable 
safety, " like a pigeon," at Bosa. I endeavoured to con- 
vince him that the practice of duelling, however blamable, 
is more manly and honourable than assassination, but 
was instantly interrupted by an exclamation, " Why 
should you give any advantage to a man who has injured 
you?" 

The gallantry displayed by some of the banditti would 
have graced a better cause, but has had the bad effect of 
giving popularity to some very atrocious villains. Thus 
when I was in the neighbourhood of Laconi, all the 
natives were in admiration of the intrepidity of Francesco 
Boi, an outlaw in possession of the mountain of Stuni, 
who levied supplies of food and ammunition on the adja- 
cent villagers, in the most daring manner. About two 
years before, he had sent a messenger to the Marquis of 
Laconi, whose vassal he was, cautioning him never to 
revisit his estates ; for which audacious threat, and 
other glaring offences, Boi had been condemned to death, 
and was at length apprehended, after having repeatedly 
baffled and defeated the Carabinieri. I happened to 
be at Cagliari, in July, 1824, when he was scourged, 
executed, and burnt, and a very pitiful fellow he looked, 
when dragged in the cart to the riva di St. Agostino. 
The same afternoon I met the good old marquis, who 

L 



146 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



appeared to enjoy his emancipation from so active an 
enemy. A few years ago, the most dangerous pass in 
Sardinia was at Monte Santo, in the Meilogu, a fine 
isolated limestone mass, in the midst of fields of trap 
and lava ; it is clothed on the north east with a thick 
forest, but the trees have been burnt off the western side, 
where the main road passes, on account of the banditti, 
who still frequent its numerous caverns. Here, from the 
difficulty and intricacy of the access to it, a famous band 
of robbers long found a safe retreat, from which they 
pounced upon unarmed travellers, and murdered and 
plundered them; thereby affording themes for many a 
rustic poet of the vicinity. It is now, however, tolerably 
safe, the present outlaws not being of the " malviventi" 
class ; and one of the most pleasing recollections which I 
retain of Sardinia is, that of dining under the aged oaks 
that fringe the rivulet at the base of Monte Santo, in 
company with the Countess Paulina and her daughter, 
whom we accidentally met on the road. The adjacent 
places were all under contribution to these brigands ; and 
on the side of a hill, opposite to the little church of 
Mezzu Mundu, in the Campu Lazzaru, are the ruins of 
Villa-nova, where the whole of the inhabitants were 
murdered by these horrid monsters. 

On my visit to Chiaramonte, and while passing along 
the tabled Monte Sassu, I made inquiries respecting Don 
Pietro, the outlaw described by Padre Napoli, but could 
procure few additional particulars, except the general 
testimony of dread and admiration, in which he had been 



OF SARDINIA. 



147 



holden. He was possessed of a considerable estate, with 
cattle amounting to sixty or seventy signs; but having mur- 
dered a man of Chiaramonte and his child , in revenge for 
an injury, he became an outlaw, and established himself 
with the most active of his vassals on Monte Sassu . Being 
an intelligent, and in some points an honourable man, he 
withheld his people from petty thefts, but became the 
terror of the government party. He was wounded in 
the left arm so as to be able to raise it but little, yet he 
contrived to rest his gun upon it, and was so excellent a 
shot, that he could hit an egg when thrown in the air. 
He received all persons, who from curiosity or business 
wished to see him, with great civility, provided they duly 
advised him, for there were always well armed sentinels 
and savage mastiffs on the alert, to prevent surprise. At 
length treachery effected what his valour and address had 
so long warded off,, and he was butchered, with all his 
adherents, while in a heavy sleep, produced by opium 
infused into their wine. 

Ambrosio of Tempio slew so many men, and held out 
so long against the authorities, that numbers actually 
believed him to be under the peculiar protection of a saint ! 
He has disappeared, however, having probably died in 
some cavern from wounds or accident ; though the peasants 
are persuaded he is yet living. I was inquiring of a 
sportsman the quality of his gun, when he assured me, 
as a climax of perfection, that it was as sure as the 
* c canna" of Ambrosio. Their " cannettas," or guns, are 
very long, with extremely light stocks, similar to those of 

L 2 



148 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Albania, and the bore of the barrel so small, as only to 
take a bullet rather larger than a buck-shot. The late 
revocation of the privilege of sanctuary, however, must 
diminish the number of murders ; and the royal decree 
of 1819, prohibiting the use of fire-arms, may have a 
beneficial effect on the population, if it can be fully en- 
forced. By its tenor, none but " barancelli," or militia- 
men, and people duly authorised by the "porta d'armi," 
or license, can carry a gun, under the penalty of seven 
years' condemnation to the galleys. Yet the moun- 
taineers, and all those having any thing to fear, still 
retain their weapons. The permission to carry arms is 
considered a mark of such respectability by the country 
gentlemen, that they are proud of the incumbrance even 
on a journey ; and on asking an acquaintance to draw his 
charge, I found he had no less than five balls to the load. 
It is an exclusive privilege of nobility to carry pistols in 
the holsters when on horseback. 

The Italian language is spoken in most of the cities, 
and is also that of the public decrees. The native tongue 
is easy, and well adapted for poetry, from the distinctness 
of its diction, and the facility of altering the collocation 
of its words. It differs essentially in the various parts 
of the island, and contains a mixture of Greek and 
Arabic words; but the most marked feature strongly 
proves, that if Latin was not the " sermo vulgaris," or col- 
loquial dialect of the whole people, it must have been very 
extensively spoken, as hundreds of words and many 
phrases remain entire. To prove this consanguinity, 



OF SARDINIA. 



149 



Padre Madao wrote several poems, selecting his words so 
that they can be read with equal facility, either by the 
Latin or Sard scholar ; one of them commences thus : — 

Deus, qui cum potentia incomprehensibili 
Nos creas, et conservas cum amore, 
Nos sustentas cum gratia indefectibili, 
Nos refrenas cum poena, et cum dolore. 
Cum fide nos illustras infallibili, 
Et nos visitas cum dulce terrore, 
Cum gloria prsemias bonos ineffabili, 
Punis malos cum poena interminabili. 

Amongst the vernacular peculiarities, an approach to 
the Corsican dialect is observable in the Gallura, and at 
la Maddalena. A mixed Italian is spoken at Sassari, 
and a corrupt Latin at Anglona, which is probably the 
" lingua rustica" mentioned by General Paoli to Dr. 
Johnson. Alghero boasts its Catalan descent, and Carlo- 
forte its Genoese, but the inhabitants of both are regarded 
by the mountaineers as intrusive foreigners. The na- 
tives of the Barbargia pride themselves on the number 
of Greek words which they retain, and the distinct though 
harsh and guttural tone of their enunciation, which is 
difficult of attainment to the other inhabitants. The 
language is esteemed the purest in the Marghine and 
Goceano ; but most elegantly spoken in the Sulcis, though 
a peculiar double sound of the consonants, struck me as 
an affectation. The words mostly end with the vowels 
a, u, or i, and are rendered plural by adding an s. The 
pronunciation of c, is between that of s and z, instead of 
the ie che" of the Italians ; and the cx resembles the 



150 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Italian ci, or English ch, as in 6i Cocxu," a eoach. The 
letter j, which in Italian is almost silent, forms the giaof 
the Sards, and therefore more resembles our own. In 
the termination of various words ending like " cavallo, 
meschinello, villa, and castello," the 11 is substituted, as in 
Sicilian, by dd, and the o is changed into u, whence the 
foregoing words become cuaddu, meschineddu, bidda, 
and casteddu a slight difference is perceptible, how- 
ever, in the pronunciation, the termination here being 
rather like fci thu," in delivery. From the custom of 
mutually substituting the labial letters, b and v, for each 
other, and the Sards not being remarkably abstemious, 
they merit Joseph Scaliger's well known " Felices populi, 
quibus fobere est vivere" 

The writings of Fara, Bacallar, Madao, Nurra, Gaz- 
zano, Gemelli, Vico, and Cossu, claim attention for dili- 
gence of research, notwithstanding some of them in- 
dulge too discursively in subtle contentions about words, 
and in empty dissertations. The accurate work of Cetti, 
on the zoology of his country, is really praiseworthy in its 
execution, and far outstrips all other native attempts in 
Natural history. The edition of the " Carta de Logu," 
by Judge Mameli, is highly creditable to his talents ; and 
the chorographical notes of Napoli are entitled to praise 
for their observation and veracity ; neither of which qua- 
lities can be ascribed to the writings of his rival, Azuni. 

The Sards are enthusiastic with regard to poetry; and 
extemporaneous bards (whose songs give permanency 
and accuracy to oral tradition) are in great request 



OF SARDINIA. 



151 



among the peasants. But education, notwithstanding the 
privileges extended to the 44 Majoli," or farmer's sons, is 
at a low ebb, — few of the females can either read or 
write, and there is scarcely one work of genius in the lan- 
guage. Although there is a free post, and letters are 
consequently delivered all over the island clear of ex- 
pense, there is very little epistolary correspondence, and 
that little is on business. Amongst their authors there 
is a preponderance of writers of fugitive verse, as hearts, 
darts, flowery vales, vows, bliss, and all the hackneyed 
blandishments of love elegies, are admirably adapted to 
the language, and require but little exertion of the imagi- 
nation. The Latin poems, however, of Carboni and Pin- 
tor, especially the Corals of the former, and the Judgment 
of Paris of the latter, merit distinction, for the labour be- 
stowed upon them ; though they only prove that amusing 
trifles may still be penned in easy metre and elegant lan- 
guage. The tame poem, 6 i I Tonni," of Raimondo 
Valle, is written with a puerile affected vivacity, and 
ought to be termed rather " the Loves of the Tunnies." 
Yet it has many admirers, as has also the attempt to de- 
scribe the rearing of silk-worms in " Su Tesoru de sa 
Sardegna" of Porqueddu ; who amongst the directions 
for girls to keep the eg^s in their bosoms by day, and 
under their pillow by night, remarks : 

Teni de sinu e lettu su caluri 
Virtudi occulta, chi sa eh 1 e dormida, 
Familiedda de bremis in s' orruri 
De su presoni suu, da fait iscida, 



152 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Ed in tempus chi Febu su splendori 
Porta tres bortas, issa had' essi in vida : 
Ram portentu ! fillus in sa mesa 
Has airi senza perdi sa puresa! 

Various objects of local interest are treated in the 
writings and sonnets of Massala, Tola, Pes of Tempio, 
and Cabras: the retreat of the French in 1793, occa- 
sioned several poems, of which the most popular was the 
" Trionfo, 1 ' of Raimondo Congia of Oliena, who con- 
cludes by advising " Franza," 

Cand 1 intendes su nomen de Sardigna 
Trema, respetta, e cede che indigna. 

The general scope of Sardinian talent has too great a 

display of those topics which constitute a student's early 

acquirements, shown in florid ideas on common subjects, 

and a ready substitution of words for thoughts, in all the 

barren abundance of the lower Italian school ; and there 

are few poems attempted, in which the deities of the 

Pantheon are not unmercifully introduced to grace the 

description. Thus Cabeddu of the Scuole Pie, on the 

occasion of the arrival of Lucien Buonaparte in the bay 

of Cagliari, wrote a much-admired allegory, in which 

Victor Emmanuel was typified under the name of Priam, 

and Sardinia under that of Troy; whilst Sinon, Lucien 

Buonaparte, and their respective friends, figured under 

the appellations and attributes of Agamemnon, Ulysses, 

iEneas, Andromache, Cassandra, &c. It commences 

thus : — 

Priamu ! non ti fides de Sinone, 
Non ti lu creas chi bengiat amigu : 



OF SARDINIA. 



153 



Est Gregu ! est traitore ! est inimigu ! 
E benit preparadu a V ingannare ; 
Si tu lassas in teri'a riposare, 
Priamu e Troja est in perdizione. 

The writing of Italian poetry is also a favourite accom- 
plishment, and the Cavaliere Ludovico Bailie (whose 
cabinet of medals does honour to his taste) thus compli- 
mented his sovereign on the recurrence of his birth-day, 
in the year 1824, in a sonnet which was printed and 
handed about at the Viceroy's levee on the occasion : — 

Deposto 1' arco, la faretra, e tolto 
Dagli ocehi il velo, Amore un cuor tenea, 
Su cui con aureo stral note incidea, 
Ed era tutto in suo pensier raecolto. 

E poi che da una parte ebbe gia scolto 
Quel cor, si che piu nulla vi capea, 
Lo rivolse dalT altra, e si dolea 
Ch' angusto ei fosse, e avea da scriver molto. 

Meravigliando a lui m' appresso, e parlo : 
Amor, che fai? ed ei: Qui V opre incise 
Da me il Tirso desia del Sardo Carlo. 

Opre degne di bronzi e marmi, Amore, 
Tu qui scrivi? diss' io : rispose e rise: 
Stolto! no '1 vedi? egli e d' Ichnusa il core. 

The re-establishment of the Jesuits at Sassari in the 
same year, was hailed by Bernardo Torchiani in the fol- 
lowing sonnet: — 

Fra le ombre ancor di etema notte avea 
L' igneo Voltaire fremente penna in mano : 
Pera Y infame Galileo, scrivea, 
E si disperda e dogma, e culto insano : 



154 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Sulle rovine del poter sovrano 
Sorga ragione, e liberta, che bea : 
Ecco 1' ora de' Son : e stesa al piano 
La granatiera di Gesu, la rea. 

Vaneggiava cosi, quando una voce 
Scese al regno di morte sibilando : 
Gloria a'Jigli d" Ignazio: ecco la croce. 

Stempro la penna, e la mordette il tristo, 
Poi tra le iiamme la gitt6 gridando : 
Va', inutil penna, ha vinto Ignazio e Cristo. 

As there is no liberty of the press, and the privilege of 
publishing is referred to the approbation of dictators 
appointed by the government, (whose decisions, however 
arbitrary, are beyond appeal,) inquiry and discussion, 
the only avenues to truth, are entirely suppressed. Few 
books consequently are printed in the island, and foreign 
ones can be imported only at Cagliari and Porto Torres, 
nor even there without the sanction of the regent and 
archbishop previous to their being landed ; for in no other 
country is the " Index Librorum Prohibitorum" in fuller 
exercise. By the precepts of this deadly enemy of litera- 
ture, all scholars are enjoined to abstain from angry 
disputes on religious topics, according to the benignant 
practice of St. Thomas; who, " though obliged to contra- 
dict innumerable theological tracts, yet never reviled 
their authors; but, explaining their obscurities in the 
most favourable way, and ascribing to them the best in- 
tentions, won their love though he overturned their sys- 
tems. 1 ' But mark how the synod of cardinals follows the 
example: — " Let no man," say they, in the same Index, 



OF SARDINIA. 



155 



" on pain of incurring the wrath of the Omnipotent God, 
and the blessed apostles Peter and Paul, infringe on these 
our resolutions. " By this declaration, all apologies ex- 
plaining or confirming the errors of heretics are forbidden ; 
as also their bibles, catechisms, forms of prayer, calen- 
dars, martyrologies, and necrologies ; and the Thesauri 
of Scapula, Hoffman, and the Stephani. The same pro- 
hibition extends to all books affirming the blessed Virgin 
to be born in sin ; those in which the immunity of eccle- 
siastical privilege is impugned ; those holding St. Paul 
equal in honour to St. Peter; and, in short, all heretical 
works on religious topics^ as well as their representations 
of sacred characters, with symbols at all differing from 
those ascribed by the church of Rome, whether in paint- 
ing, sculpture, or otherwise. In particular clauses, the 
works of Luther, Wicliffe, Calvin, Zwingle, Balthasar, 
Pacimontanus, and "such like," are " omnino damnantur."" 
The writings of heretics, not on religion, may be per- 
mitted after due expurgatory examination and approval ; 
but so many are the points of objection, that few popular 
works have escaped being included in the Index. The 
names of Galileo, Newton, Milton, Descartes, Addison, 
Fenelon, Erasmus, Bacon, Locke, Voltaire, Grotius, 
Rousseau, Swift, Vossius, Scaliger, and a multitude of 
others, most fully prove that history, metaphysics, juris- 
prudence, poetry, ethics, and science in general, have 
been alike unsparingly anathematized. 

Of the several learned professions, theology and juris- 
prudence have been studied the most; mathematics, che- 



156 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



mistry and physic have had but a languid existence; 
while anatomy is not only obstructed by the climate, but 
also by the prejudices of the natives, who hold surgical 
operations in detestation and horror. Such was the state 
of medicine before the arrival of the two professors, 
Moris and Pasero, that the principal study was the theory 
of Aristotle, on the four elements. The system of edu- 
cation is laborious both for body and mind, as eight years 
are required in the lower schools to be qualified in rheto- 
ric, and then six more to obtain a degree; but it is 
expected that the recent establishment of Normal schools 
throughout the country, supported by the respective 
communities, will remedy much of the evil. 

The fine arts meet with no encouragement, conse- 
quently there is not a native painter, sculptor, or en- 
graver in the kingdom. Nor is the drama in a much 
better state, for their stage boasts not one Sardinian 
actor, singer, or dancer; in fact, there are only two 
theatres (those of Cagliari and Sassari) in the whole 
island; unless, indeed, a mere barn at Alghero, fitted up 
for occasional scenic representations, be reckoned a third. 
Mountebanks and strollers exhibit in the open air at the 
other towns; but, from the opposition of the country 
rectors, the profits scarcely repay the trouble and expense. 
It is remarkable, that though the revival of plays was 
the offspring of religious ceremonies, and has been of 
beneficial effect on public morals, players have always 
laboured under the displeasure and ban of the catholic 
clergy. 



OF SARDINIA. 



157 



Except in the guns of Tenrpio, very little skill is 
shown by their artisans ; nor do they attempt watches or 
clocks, nor even cutlery, but of the commonest sort. 
The produce of their insignificant potteries is extremely 
coarse, and no inclination for improvement is manifested. 
The paper-mill near Cuglieri failed partly from the in- 
temperie, but more from want of spirit, and the price of 
that useful commodity is consequently high. Civil archi- 
tects have to undergo an examination by a Scolopian 
father professor of arithmetic, an artillery officer, and a 
member of the civic corps, — all strangers to the profession. 
The builders use neither plumb-line, nor foot rule, but 
take small measures with a reed, biting off the super- 
fluous part; and they guess at an approximation with 
regard to larger dimensions, as a method less operose in 
point of labour, and more expeditious in point of time. 
The carpenters and joiners are very indifferent workmen, 
and will seldom hurry themselves ; while the happy ease 
of the sawyers may be observed in the following sketch. 



158 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Boys of the poorer classes, whose parents cannot sup- 
port them in town, for the purpose of being educated, have 
the means afforded them, by a peculiar custom in Sardi- 
nia. Such lads engage themselves in private families as 
a kind of menial, (yet are not at all considered in the light 
of hired servants,) in order to earn their board and lodging, 
and have full time allowed them in the middle of the day, 
to attend the public schools and prosecute their studies. 
Their principal domestic duty is to market for the fa- 
mily, (an office which no female could be prevailed on to 
perform,) to attend their mistresses to mass, and light their 
masters home from the conversazioni. They are called 
Majoli, (probably from the hood of their peasant's cloak 
resembling the " majolu," or conical box, from whence the 
corn dribbles into the donkey-mills;) and being allowed 
to retain their own garb, this term serves to distinguish 
them from the other students. On removing to the 
University, the majolo assumes the dress of a citizen, but 
still resides in private families, as a tutor to the children 
in return for his maintenance, and from this humble 
beginning a successful majolo can attain the highest 
offices in the kingdom. 

The Sard nobility, having but scanty means of en- 
gaging in useful pursuits, are often ignorant and proud, 
and affect to despise domestic economy, even where 
pinching poverty prevails. Being without a navy or 
army, except one Sard regiment, which is usually in 
Piedmont, their calls to glory are very feeble ; com- 
merce they do not understand ; and for study they have 



OF SARDINIA. 



159 



no inclination. Many of them enter into the Militia, 
an irregular force of about 6000 cavalry, and 1200 
infantry, the officers of which are allowed to wear a uni- 
form, but receive no pay. The privates have no dis- 
tinguishing dress or mark, except a cockade worn on 
particular occasions ; they are armed with a long gun, 
a knife, and a cutlass ; and are expected to patrole the 
country, to arrest and conduct malefactors, to repair to 
any invaded point, and to assist the Board of Health in 
times of danger ; for which services they receive similar 
exemptions with the barancelli. The regular force con- 
sists of about 3000 Piedmontese troops, distributed in the 
several towns and garrisons, and they have latterly become 
tolerably popular with the Sards, excepting the cara- 
bineers, whose duty interfering with some of the long 
established prejudices of the villagers, has occasioned 
frequent and bloody contests ; the recent disarming of 
the natives, however, will probably render this corps' 
service annually less desperate. The carabineers, as a 
body, are highly respected, and the officers receive nearly 
treble the pay of those in the line. There are but three 
regularly fortified towns, Cagliari, Alghero, and Castel 
Sardo; for Sassari, Carloforte, Posada, and Iglesias, 
though walled, are not considered places of arms. The 
coasts are defended by a line of stout towers, garrisoned 
by soldiers called <c torrari," and regulated by a trien- 
nial council of three members, one being chosen from 
each stamento ; and they are supported by a tax on the 
exports of cheese, cattle, hides, and wool. Though the 



160 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Marine list is swelled with the names of numerous officers, 
the naval force consists of only a small brig and two 
rowing gun-boats, called corridores, which are all at the 
disposal of the Viceroy. 

The nobles and citizens generally adopt the prevailing 
fashions of Italy in their dress, but the " gente mannu," 
or country gentlemen, as well as the " mussaras," or 
upper class of farmers, and all the peasantry, are particu- 
larly marked in their various habiliments. In the Cam- 
pidano they wear skins, in the Gallura coarse cloth of 
the orbacci, and in the vicinity of Bosa tanned leather, 
reminding one strongly of the argument which was used 
by Cicero to clear his client : "If the splendour of the 
royal purple had been insufficient to tempt him, was it 
likely that the Sard goatskins should have more power ?" 
The " est e peddes," or pelisse of undressed sheep or 
goatskins, the noted " mastruca" of Tully, must be 
nearly as general in the Campidano now, as in the time 
of the Romans : but the practice is not universal of in- 
verting the " pelliccia," or fleece, inside in winter; being 
mostly worn with the wool outside ; if we except some 
white skins, dressed with peculiar care, cut in the form of 
a long jacket, and the seams covered with blue ribbons, 
which are used as a gala dress. The " collettu" is a very 
general article of male attire, reckoned peculiar to Sar- 
dinia : it is made of four skins of tanned leather, in the 
form of a close, sleeveless waistcoat, folding on the breast, 
but reaching nearly to the knees, being double in front, 
single behind, and open at each side. The collettu is 



OF SARDINIA. 



161 



confined round the waist by a leathern belt called cintorza, 
fastened by a metal buckle, and with a long dirk thrust 
through it, serving alike for meals or for murder. Some 
of the collettus are very expensively made of yellow or 
yellowish red leather, imported from France, decorated 
with enormous silver buttons in the Maltese style. The 
butcher that supplied our ship at Cagliari, came to the 
consul's house to exhibit his best attire to us, and might 
be said to be splendidly dressed. He described the skins 
as warm in winter, and repelling the heat in summer, 
besides obviating the inconvenience of feeling the sudden 
changes of the atmosphere. The shirt is fastened at the 
collar by silver buttons, but the neck is otherwise un- 
covered. The " cabbanu," a heavy dark brown Maltese 
cloak, is much worn by the 68 mussaras," as is also the 
" cabbaneddu," or shorter cabbanu, an article much re- 
sembling the pea-jacket of seamen. In Cagliari the 
people use the " berriuola," or cap of scarlet cloth, but 
in most other parts of the island it is black, and the cap 
or net for the hair, known to the ancients, is still general 
in the Capo di Sotta, under the name of " toccaus." In 
summer the peasants wear a flat-crowned hat with a very 
broad brim ; and in the Campidanu it is usual with them 
to carry a long staff, or " hasta pura," though some sub- 
stitute it by a long lance with an iron head, called 
" beruda," an evident corruption of verutum, — both of 
which impart a classical air. In the Sulcis, black is the 
favourite colour of the men's garments, even to the choice 
of their goatskin jackets. Those of the Gallura and 

M 



162 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Barbargia permit their hair to hang down loose over their 
shoulders, which, with their bushy beards, gives them a 
very ferocious aspect. A kind of black kilt, u rhagas, ' 
over *' mutande," or loose linen drawers, with ''carzas,'' 
cloth leggings, completes the dress of the men. The 
homespun serge, of which these articles are invariably 
made, is called " foresi," and may be the lineal descendant 
of the "vestis forensis" of the Romans. 

The females following the example of the men, those 
of the highest rank usually adopt the Italian fashions, 
whilst those of the country adhere to the costume of 
their respective conditions, distinctly designated as fol- 
lows: — 

The Dama — or lady of the first rank; 
Signora — lady of the second rank ; 
Nostrada — wife of a lawyer or physician; 
Contadina principale — wife of a farmer; 
Arteggiana — wife of a tradesman ; 
Contadina rustica — wife of a peasant. 

In towns, the Genoese white veil forms part of the 
costume of most women, as only those of the upper 
order wear bonnets. On births, marriages, and religious 
festivals, the female peasantry appear in " gran tenuta," 
with gay coloured clothes, decorated with all their 
trinkets, and affording, when collected in numbers, a very 
picturesque spectacle. The 44 fardetta," or petticoat, is 
mostly of scarlet or yellow kerseymere, made very full, 
with small plaits to confine it, and ornamented round the 
edge with a broad border of ribbon, of a different colour. 
The shift is buttoned at the neck, just below the 



OF SARDINIA. 163 

" lassu," a bulse of pearls round the throat ; over a low 
corset, a rich brocade or embroidered jacket is worn, 
with large silver buttons on the loose cuffs. Below the 
corset hangs the " deventale," a finely tamboured apron, 
made narrow at the top and spreading below, fastened so 
loosely round the waist as to show a couple of inches of 
petticoat in front above it. The waist is tightly enve- 
loped with three or four folds of a fine linen girdle, 
called the " scinta," which is the most objectionable part 
of the dress, as it disfigures the form, and gives to every 
female the appearance of being pregnant. Corals, rings, 
rosaries, and crosses are worn in profusion ; and an orna- 
mental silver chain, called <c cadenazzu," with a little 
casket appended to it, containing a relic or amulet, is 
very general. The dress is completed by a fine linen 
covering for the head, tied loosely under the chin, so as 
not to hide either the 66 lassu" or the ear-rings. Although 
there is much similarity in the female attire in general, 
many departments, and even some villages, have their 
distinguishing peculiarity. In Orosei, the women wear 
a highly ornamented busk called ' c correttu, v> projecting 
from between the breasts, not unlike the prow of a gal- 
ley ; and they moreover have the oriental custom of 
covering their mouths. At Ploaghe the head is covered 
with a yellow cloth having a deep red border, such as I 
have seen in Calabria; and in the villages extending 
thence to the S.W. of Sassari, the gala costume is very 
rich. At Aritzu the female garments are simple; a 
robe folds closely round the body, covering the head, 

M 2 



164 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



shoulders, and loins, and is fastened by a single skewer. 
In the northern departments the women wear their 
sleeves cleft, in the Greek mode, and a coarse white net 
envelopes their hair, not unlike that in use with the men. 
The females of the Sulcis have a Moorish appearance, 
from the Orbacci shawl worn over their heads, which, 
with their scarlet stockings, marks them at festas ; and 
it is singular that the natives of this district are termed 
Maureddus. 

The towns and villages are mostly large and well situ- 
ated, but with unpaved, narrow streets, mean houses, and 
a general want of convenience. Immense dunghills, 
the collection of ages, disfigure the principal entrances ; 
thus obtruding a disgusting object on the sight, which 
would be so advantageous to the grounds if properly 
applied*. The villages of the Galium are constructed 
of granite blocks, and those of the greater part of the 
Capo di Sopra of freestone ; but most of the country- 
houses of the Capo di Sotto are built with sun-dried 
bricks, made of mud and straw, forming the <c domus 
terranea" of antiquity. In the towns, some very to- 
lerable mansions are met with, though they are ill fitted, 
and their atria are as dirty in general, as were those of 
the ancients in the days of Juvenal. The number of 
beds indicates the importance of the owner, in whose 
particular room will be strewed saddles, bridles, arms, 

* That this practice is of some standing, see the penalty quoted 
from the Carta de Logu, page 134. 



OF SARDINIA. 



165 



nails, and cordage, in promiscuous confusion ; with hams 
and dried sausages hanging up, and cabinets probably 
filled with walnuts, cheese, pastry and dried fruit. The 
dwellings of the peasants are usually of only one story 
in height, without windows ; and where the larger ones 
have those apertures, they are not glazed. A whole 
family frequently dwells in a single room, in which kids, 
chickens, and dogs, seek indiscriminate accommodation 
with the naked children, whilst an ass is constantly at his 
rotatory occupation round a mill in the corner. In the 
centre of the room there is a square hole in the clay floor, 
in which is the fire, but no outlet for the smoke, except 
accidental holes in the roof or the door. Amongst other 
articles of furniture in these humble domiciles, is a large 
bed for the elders, the sick, or the stranger ; for hospi- 
tality being reciprocal, travellers rarely use the inns. 
The younger members of the family, not being permitted 
the use of such a luxury till the eve of marriage, sleep, 
as did the ancient Celts, around the fire-place on mats, 
and frequently, in summer, in the open air. A few very 
small low chairs, with equally as low a table, constitute 
their usual moveables; and their wails are decorated with 
mere stripes of the coloured paper that rooms are hung 
with in England, but which being here mounted on rol- 
lers like maps, form a more conspicuous ornament. 

The " protomedicato" of Cagliari consists of the " pro- 
tomedico" and two assistants, with an adjunct student. 
Their duty is to attend to all the sanitary regulations of 
the island, — to examine physicians, surgeons, and mid- 



166 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



wives, — to inspect all drugs and medicines imported, — 
and to deduct from extortionate apothecaries' bills. In 
almost every town there is an hospital proportioned to its 
size, which receives the sick, the mad, and the foundlings, 
supported by bequests and contributions ; and regulated, 
as well as served, by the Buonfratelli of the order of St. 
Giovanni di Dio. " Bivi de miegu e mori miserabile," 
or, 6 Who lives by the doctor dies miserably j"* is a common 
Sardinian proverb, and the objection of the natives to 
medicine has greatly retarded the progress of the thera- 
peutic art. Notwithstanding their hatred to practitioners, 
venesection is so favourite a practice, that in the Mar- 
ghine and Logudoro most of the adults are bled before 
sunset, on the feast of St. John the Baptist. In summer 
and autumn, the sudden changes of temperature induce 
inflammatory affections of the lungs and stomach ; typhus 
fevers are then both common and dangerous, and, as well 
as the effects of the sun, have too frequently been im- 
puted to intemperie. Consumptions and apoplexy are 
not unfrequent ; and scrofula and cutaneous complaints 
are very prevalent, owing to the habit of huddling to- 
gether, and the want of cleanliness in their wearing 
apparel, nothing being attended to but the outer gar- 
ments, — though, on the whole, the diseases are rather of 
an acute than a chronic type. However much the Sards 
dislike to " fee the doctor for his nauseous draught," 
they are much addicted to quackery, and place implicit 
faith in their emollients, electuaries, topical applications, 
and charms. Flax and wild asparagus are their specifics 



OF SARDINIA. 



167 



in cases of gravel, and the inspissated juice of aloes against 
worms and low spirits. The " pallentes grana cumini," 
instead of being used, or rather abused, as in the days of 
Persius and Pliny, in procuring palidness, (as if the 
effect of severe study,) is found to be an excellent 
aperient, and a simple remedy for indigestion. Wild rue 
is esteemed a good catholicon for cholic ; spikenard is 
used for asthma; juniper is taken internally to promote 
perspiration ; and the flowers of the wild pomegranate to 
stop the spitting of blood. The mallow, which would 
otherwise vegetate in useless luxuriance, is a general sta- 
ple of their pharmacy ; and the contents of a wild-boar's 
bladder mixed with oil, is, like the balsam of Fierabras, 
a sovereign remedy for cuts, bruises, and all other hurts 
and injuries. 

In the country, the 66 Medico" has to perform all the 
various branches of the healing art. On my arrival at 
Iglesias, I found that an impostor had just visited the 
place, in the character of a first-rate dentist. He was a 
native of France, and boasted of three orders of knight- 
hood, one of which, they assured me, was the " giarre- 
tiera" of England ; and the only circumstance that made 
the sapient citizens suspicious, was the improbability of 
any man professing exclusively for the teeth. An old 
Dominican monk, anxious to regain a distinct articula- 
tion, was well satisfied with having reduced the wonder- 
working mountebank's charge from twenty dollars to five, 
for placing a substitute for four absent front teeth. 
The substitution, however, though properly curved on 



168 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



the outer part, was in one piece, and formed a chord 
across the inside, so that the poor man's imprisoned 
tongue could not perform its office, notwithstanding the 
most persevering, though ludicrous, attempts. At length, 
the whole apparatus tumbling out of his mouth, with 
several similar failures, obliged the knight " of many 
orders" to decamp. 

It is surprising that with such inconvenient residences, 
and uncleanly habits, the natives should remain so gene- 
rally healthy as they do, in all those parts not subject to 
intemperie. Neither longevity nor large families are so 
common as in England, yet there are numerous instances 
of both ; though I believe the boon proffered by the law, 
that grants an annuity of fifty scudi, and remission of 
taxes to the father of twelve living children, has seldom 
been claimed. In 1824, a man died at Maddalena at the 
age of 106 years, leaving a widow, aged 83; and there 
were then living at Cagliari, Giuseppe Napoli, author of 
the " Note Illustrate," upwards of eighty years old ; 
and at Quartu, the grandmother of Signor Mameli, in her 
ninety-third year, who had recently cut six new teeth. 

Throughout the island the cittadini hold the con- 
tadini in utter contempt, a feeling as warmly returned by 
the rustics; and the Calaritani and Sassarese bear so 
cordial a hatred towards each other, that as " furbo" as 
a Sassarese, is a frequent expression in the metropolis. 
Kissing, on meeting, is an indispensable custom amongst 
men of all ranks, first by saluting each cheek and then 
mouth to mouth : this ceremony, which is transmitted 



OF SARDINIA, 



169 



from the ancients, did not escape the lash of Martial. 
In conversation they are vociferous, and very varied in 
the intonation of the voice, but seldom or never give a 
direct answer to an abrupt question. The dirty custom 
of free expectoration is universal ; the women laugh 
heartily at indelicate allusions, and moreover freely call 
every thing by its proper name, with a palpable con- 
tempt of circumlocution and disguise. Amongst the 
peasants, women are mere servants, and have to devote 
themselves to the manufacture of " orbacci" and linen, the 
rearing of children and poultry, the making of bread, 
and the carrying of water ; in which last employment, a 
spectator, however shocked at the drudgery, cannot but 
admire the dexterity and grace with which they support 
and carry the vessels on their heads, — moving with a 
firm step, though, on most other occasions, their walk 
is an awkward waddle. 

It is owing, perhaps, to a trait of orientalism derived 
from their former Moorish masters, or a still more 
ancient practice, that the female part of a family seldom 
appear, except at galas, and never sit at meals with 
visiters; a peculiarity I have noticed even where the 
hostess has saluted me on my arrival with a shake of 
the hand, saying in the kindest tone, " The stranger is 
welcome. 1 ' This would imply a very imperfect stage of 
civilization, being precisely the custom of Turks, Moors, 
Arabs, South Sea islanders, and all the most untutored 
people ; yet a nation is not necessarily barbarous because 
women are partially proscribed from society. In ancient 



170 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



Greece, the boasted seat of polity, and art, and science, 
females enjoyed no enviable condition, excluded, as they 
ungenerously were, from social intercourse, and con- 
demned to the most servile occupations. That this state 
of degradation, though inflicted by an illustrious people, 
is no palliation of the injustice, is sufficiently evident: for 
it must be at once conceded that nothing tends to bru- 
talize a man so much as an undue contempt for women : 
on female virtue the true happiness of a family depends, 
and from this source must much of the national character 
originate. With these sentiments, I trust I shall be 
deemed impartial when I add, that this temporary seclu- 
sion, as practised in Sardinia, does not appear to be fol- 
lowed by any evil effect on the domestic harmony, for 
the moral duties of the wife seem to be cheerfully and 
punctually attended to. The extreme jealousy of the 
Sards, and their summary mode of avenging injured 
feelings, has been very efficient in guarding the country 
against the introduction of the disgraceful " Cavaliere 
Servente," and the train of moral evils consequent on 
their infamy. But it is not to this passion alone that 
the seclusion of females is to be ascribed, for many dis- 
claim suspicion altogether. A Mussara, with whom I 
was conversing on the subject, expatiated largely on the 
folly of attempting to take care of a woman that was in- 
clined to evil ways, and concluded by telling me with some 
warmth, that he was so satisfied of his wife's chastity, 
" he would trust her even amongst capuchins !" 

The Sards are greatly attached to the pleasures of the 



OF SARDINIA. 



171 



table, regaling very freely, though rarely to excess. 
They drink wines of various qualities, cordials, and sher- 
bet ; but malt liquor is scarcely known out of Cagliari — 
insomuch that, about a dozen years ago, the commander 
of an English brig, near Alghero, was in danger of being 
arrested, in consequence of the sudden illness of some of 
his guests, who had drank too much ale ; and was only 
saved from this vexation, by a medical man declaring 
there was nothing poisonous in the fluid, for on examina- 
tion he found it to be merely a mixture of gall and 
water ! Entertainments in the country, on joyous occa- 
sions, are given with a profuse hospitality, and afford a 
practical illustration of the banquets of olden times. 
Amongst others, the village of Mandas is noted for its 
superior bread, and extravagant feasting on every avail- 
able occasion : an acquaintance of mine was present at 
a continued carousal of eight days, given about twenty 
years since, by Signior Giuseppe Cozzu, to fifty guests 
with their servants, on the beatification of Margaret of 
Savoy. Good living is not to be understood from this 
as peculiar to the country, for the city tables also are so 
plentifully and elegantly spread to the stranger, as to 
have drawn forth warm encomiums from my worthy 
friend Sir William Curtis, the present senior alderman 
of the city of London; although from his arriving in 
Lent, the entertainments consisted almost exclusively of 
fish, but dressed with all the ingenuity of culinary art. 

In their food, the gentry of Sardinia have the same 
habits and dishes as those of Italy, and also frequently 



172 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



act upon the homely proverb that <c fingers were made 
before knives and forks." The kitchen is the usual place 
for meals, where the ceremony of taking off the hat or 
cap, on sitting down, is dispensed with. The Campi- 
danesi of every rank eat bread, rather heavy, but of un- 
rivalled whiteness ; and it is said that the threat of re- 
ducing them to the brown loaf, is little less dreaded 
than that of sending them to the galleys ! Fine wheaten 
bread is, however, also used in most other parts, that of 
a coarse or common sort being known only amongst the 
shepherds of the Gallura, and the mountaineers of Ogli- 
astra; the last of whom frequently use a substitute made 
of acorns, which in years of scarcity they have occasion- 
ally mixed with a peculiar kind of earth. The dirty 
custom of raising dough, by placing it in the yet 
warm bed, in which some of the family have been sleep- 
ing, is very general in the villages of the Meliogu, and 
other districts. A larger proportion of flesh is eaten than 
amongst their Sicilian neighbours, and unlike them, the 
Sards are more partial to roasted meats, than to boiled or 
stewed. Earthenware not being common, the ordinary 
substitute is an oblong wooden dish, called " talleri," 
having a small well at the corner to contain salt, and a 
protuberance near the handle, on which to chop and di- 
vide the bones. The favourite meats are beef, mutton, 
kid, pork, and game ; poultry is not in very general use, 
and domestic ducks and geese are very scarce. During 
two months, beginning at Easter, every one eats mutton, 
and the best morsels are by some ironically termed 



OF SARDINIA. 



173 



" bocconi di prete," or tit-bits for priests. In cutting 
their meat, the peasants have an awkward and disgusting 
mode of holding it between their teeth, and directing the 
knife from the mouth to divide it — a peculiarity mentioned 
to me by Captain Parry as existing with the Esquimaux ; 
and which was also observed amongst the natives of the 
S.W. part of New Holland, by my friend Captain P.P. 
King. 

The forests supply the tables with deer, mufflons, wild 
hogs, hares, partridges, and wild fowl, of which the three 
first are termed " Caccia grossa." There are no phea- 
sants; but from January to the end of Carnival, besides 
ducks, quails, snipes, woodcocks, and becca-fichi, the 
markets are supplied with great numbers of thrushes, 
nightingales, blackbirds, and other singing-birds, taken 
by means of nets : finches, wagtails, wrens, and all the 
smaller kinds are also eaten, but no large birds of prey. 
Fish is not so general as it would be, if the islanders 
were more partial to maritime enterprise; yet they like 
it exceedingly, and are as fond of the various dishes 
made from the tunny, as the ancients were. A common 
way of dressing sardines and anchovies, is to throw them 
into boiling oil, which was considered a dish, according to 
Archestratus, " fit for the gods." Great quantities of 
the small white snail, called " giocca," are brought to 
table, boiled with salt, and are esteemed very nutritious 
food ; but the " rana esculenta," or edible frog, though 
so common in Italy, is unknown here. The good pro- 
perties of the " giocca" snail are also known in England ; 



174 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



and William Bray, Esq., late treasurer of the Society of 
Antiquaries, from motives of the purest benevolence, in- 
troduced a quantity into his woods at Shiere, near Guild- 
ford, where they thrive largely, and are much esteemed 
in consumptions. Maccaroni, fidelini, and paste of va- 
rious other forms, as well made as those of Naples, are 
in such request and frequent use, that there are rural 
feasts, called maccaronadas. " Polenta," or porridge, is 
also used, but not so generally as in Sicily ; that made of 
Indian corn is most common in the Sulcis, and at Flu- 
mini-major. Eggs are usually roasted in the embers, 
and milk is heated by hot stones being thrown into it ; a 
Celtic method, requiring little fuel, and which can be 
performed in vessels that would not bear the fire. 

The cottage cookery is very plain ; one of their best 
dishes is the 66 cocco di brocci," a sort of omelet made of 
curds ; though by epicures it is reckoned inferior to the 
4 6 curigionis," a mixture of flour, fresh cheese, and vege- 
tables. The " minestra" is a national dish 3 consisting 
alternately of pulse, fennel, cauliflowers, and other garden 
productions ; besides which, the hills and plains contri- 
bute abundance of wild edible vegetables, especially in 
Lent, when the young of both sexes may be seen along 
the road sides and banks, gathering asparagus, carrots, 
pease, vetches, endive, mustard, and borage; which are 
eaten boiled or roasted, fried or crude, with equal relish. 
The Sards are extremely partial to lettuces, and at Sas- 
sari parties are formed that repair to the gardens, and 
there enjoy them in profusion. The produce of the ex- 



OF SARDINIA. 



175 



cellent grounds of Ozieri is also in high esteem. When 
vegetables are cooked for the tables of the rich, they are 
seasoned with spices, and mixed with olives, raisins, 
cheese, eggs, and other ingredients; reminding one of 
Cicero's description of his indigestion, from having in- 
fringed the frugal regulations of the sumptuary laws: 
" The products of the earth," he says, in a letter to 
Fabius Gallus, " being excepted out of the restrictions 
of that act, our elegant eaters, in order to bring vege- 
tables into fashion, have found out a method of dressing 
them in so high a taste, that nothing can be more palat- 
able."' The large tracts of garden-ground every where 
devoted to the cultivation of artichokes, brought to my 
recollection the sarcasms of Pliny on so unpromising an 
article of food; but I found that the partiality of the 
Sards is such, both for the bud and the " cardi," or 
shoots, either raw, boiled, or in omelets, that there is 
always a sure and profitable sale for them. Besides 
which, they are believed to possess the physical virtues 
heretofore attributed to them by the ancients; and are in 
additional request with some, because when eaten crude, 
they promote a thirst very favourable for relishing wine. 
This quality is ascribed as well to the " margaglia," or 
upper part of the stem of the " palmizzu," (chamaerops 
humilis,) a plant which, though so indignantly railed 
against by Cicero, when forced on the Roman sailors as 
food, is found to be extremely useful in Sardinia: for, ex- 
clusive of its edible nature, its leaves serve to make hats, 
baskets, and rope; and the trunk, when old, becomes 



176 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



excellent fuel. In the vicinity of Alghero the margaglia 
is brought to table raw, and eaten with oil and salt; and 
in times of scarcity is used as a substitute for bread. 
The fruit, a reddish berry, called " giuggiolu," nearly 
the size of a hazel-nut, is also nutritious, and in taste 
resembles dates. The playful little " boccamele," an ani- 
mal in which Cetti recognises the " Ictis" of Aristotle, is 
said to be extremely partial to this fruit when very ripe. 

The Sards are but indifferent pedestrians, evincing a 
great dislike to walking ; the only mode of travelling for 
both sexes is on horseback. The women ride astride, 
and mount and dismount with agility. On some occa- 
sions, the e< tracca," or covered cart, is used, but there are 
very few coaches, and those only in the great towns ; for, 
independent of the want of roads, the country people 
regard them as articles of effeminate luxury, as was the 
case in the feudal ages of Europe. The passo portante 
of their horses, before mentioned, enables them to pro- 
ceed at an average rate of about four miles an hour, on 
good roads, but not more than two and a half on bad or 
indifferent ones. On setting out they invariably cross 
themselves; and it is remarkable that, like the ancient 
Romans, they never mount a horse, but from a step, a 
stone, or a bank ; yet they are expert equestrians, as may 
be seen at their races, and in their venturous chase of 
the " Caccia grossa," or larger game, over rocks and 
precipices that would startle an ordinary rider. Amongst 
others, a very curious race occurs at Cagliari, along the 
steep and rugged street of St. Michael, on the last days 



OF SARDINIA. 



177 



of the carnival. In this singular exploit, three or even 
four equestrian masques ride abreast, so close as to lay 
their arms on each other's shoulders, and setting off at 
full speed often reach the goal without separating, by 
skilfully managing their horses. The pavement was so 
slippery and broken that the viceroy had ordered it to be 
repaired, but the citizens requested it might be left as it 
was, for otherwise no horsemanship would be requisite. 
The prizes awarded at these public races are furnished 
by a portion of the richest inhabitants, who are thereupon 
termed the donors of the fete: they usually consist of 
several yards of fine cloth, stuff, or velvet, of three 
degrees of value, — the first being for the " cavalli di 
punta," — the second for the best of the village horses, 
ridden without saddles by youths with a whip in each 
hand, — and the last prize is for the fleetest of the colts : 
mares are not permitted to run on the " arringu,'" or race 
course. 

Field sports constitute a great portion of the amuse- 
ment of the Sards, and their woods and wastes afford 
them a variety of what they term large and small game. 
In hunting the wild-boar by the " caccia clamorosa," a 
number of men with their guns and dogs sally forth, and 
dashing into the wilds of a forest, the sportsmen station 
themselves at convenient distances from each other. The 
dogs are then sent into the thickets : their loud barking 
is accompanied by the yells of the sportsmen, and un- 
ceasingly continued till a boar is started from his lair, 
when the nearest man fires his gun, usually loaded with 

N 



178 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



two or even three balls. It is very dangerous at this 
moment to quit the assigned station, as the sportsmen, 
from the thickness of the wood, may be unable to see 
each other, and fatal accidents might occur : they are 
therefore careful in ascertaining the respective positions 
previous to sending the dogs in advance. On the first 
alarm, the boars endeavour to escape, yet when wounded 
often turn on the dogs, though very seldom on the 
hunters. This is the most usual mode of attacking them, 
but they are sometimes chased by horsemen with infinite 
address and ability ; and as there are no prohibitory game- 
laws, the only precaution necessary is, that of not enter- 
ing fenced grounds in the pursuit. If a deer or stag is 
killed, the skin is the common property of the whole 
party of huntsmen; if it is a mufflon, or doe, the skin 
belongs exclusively to the person who shot the animal ; 
and if a wild boar is the prize, the direct intestine and 
the bladder are his right, together with any other part 
of the " robba interiore" he chooses. 

In sporting for birds, though the Sards esteem them- 
selves capital shots, they seldom or never attempt to shoot 
flying. Angling is ill understood; for, though there 
are fine trout in the rivers, they prefer entrapping 
them by wicker-work, called " nassargius," similar to the 
weir mentioned by Columella, laid across the stream, with 
a small opening in the centre : or else taking them with 
the hand, by immersing twigs of the euphorbia, — a method 
of poisoning streams severely reprobated in the Carta de 
Logu. The beautiful lark, called Calandroni, is caught 



OF SARDINIA. 



179 



by spreading a net near the stream which it frequents, 
precisely as mentioned by Oppian ; but the taking of the 
" corvus aquaticus," or shagge, as practised amongst the 
Intermediate islands and at St. Pietro, is at once novel 
and ingenious: towards the evening, when these birds 
resort to the rocks, they are cautiously approached and 
sprinkled with water ; when, mistaking this ablution for 
rain, they immediately put their heads under their wings, 
and thereby become so easy a prey, that a boat's crew may 
catch one hundred and fifty of them in a night. The " con- 
truxiu," or vulture, is sought after by the shepherds, for 
the sake of the down ; they throw a dead animal into a 
hole made for the purpose, and when the birds are nearly 
gorged, easily kill them with sticks : it is asserted that by 
roasting a dog on a mountain top, these ravenous creatures 
may be attracted from a distance of fourteen or fifteen 
miles. The island is entirely free from wolves and mor- 
tally venomous reptiles, owing (according to tradition) to 
the intercession of St. Proto, who, on account of his faith, 
was exiled to Asmara. But we learn from ancient 
writers, that this exemption was enjoyed ages before, 
with the single exception of the 66 solifuga," which per- 
haps is nothing more than the common tarantula, rather 
a noxious than a dangerously venomous spider ; and this 
is still frequently met with, as are also snakes, vipers, 
toads, and scorpions. 

Sards of all ranks are earnestly devoted to festivity ; 
their holidays may be divided into two classes, the uni- 
versal, and the local. The universal are those observed 

N 2 



180 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



in common with all who profess the Romish faith, and 
who are bound on those days, under pain of mortal sin, 
to attend mass, and suspend all labour, however neces- 
sary. In these, they do not differ much from the Sici- 
lians and Italians, except that their ceremonies on Good 
Friday excel those of the latter, in the penances and for- 
malities of the processions. On this solemn occasion, a 
variety of religious sonnets, printed in Sard, Italian, or 
Latin, are profusely distributed ; and no bells being 
allowed to be rung, a melancholy noise is made with 
huge wooden rattles, which is termed breaking the bones 
of Judas. In the last week of carnival, the nuns with 
infinite care cut out figures of white paper with seven 
feet, and ornamenting them with coloured fringes, send 
them round to their friends, to be suspended in some 
conspicuous part of the house during Lent; every Sun- 
day one of the feet is torn off, and at the middle of the 
fast the bauble is cut in two. On all occasions of reli- 
gious festivity, the churches are decorated with flags and 
streamers, and the altars with branches and flowers. In 
Sassari, the dances and other amusements of carnival are 
pursued to an extreme ; but their greatest display is at 
Candlemas, when the various guilds march in procession, 
in gala dress, with an appropriate flag at the head of each 
company. The farmers, called " massai," walk last in 
the procession, which is regarded as the post of honour ; 
and it is their duty, on reaching the town-house, to com- 
pliment the municipal officers. The " viandanti," or road 
traders, and the 66 ortolani," or market-gardeners'* follow, 



OF SARDINIA. 



181 



whilst the standard bearers, dressed in a rich Spanish 
costume of the period of Ferdinand and Isabella, with 
magnificent swords and poniards, come next in order. 
Having once carried the flag entitles the individual to 
wear a belt with a silver buckle, and a large broach of 
the same metal to his broad-brimmed hat ; and thence- 
forth he walks after the flag instead of before it. Eight 
highly-decorated columns of wood, used as candlesticks, 
are placed around the bier of the blessed Virgin. 

The local festivals are those celebrated in certain 
towns, parishes, or chapels, in honour of esteemed saints ; 
and as some of them possess a peculiar originality of cha- 
racter, it may be illustrative of the people to describe two 
or three of them. One of the principal takes place at 
Cagliari, on the 1st of May, in honour of St. Effisius, a 
Greek warrior who became a Christian by divine interpo- 
sition, similar in circumstance to that of St. Paul's mira- 
culous conversion, whilst persecuting that sect by order 
of Diocletian. After many ineffectual attempts to destroy 
him by fire, by torture, and other means, he was, at 
length, beheaded at Nora, on the 15th of January, SOS. 
On the morning of the anniversary, Cagliari and its 
suburbs are in a state of restless agitation and gaiety, 
till the procession is formed that is to attend the Saint to 
Pula, whither many believe he would proceed by himself 
if he were not carried. A company of carabineers con- 
stitutes the van, followed by all the drummers that can 
be mustered together ; and after them a multitude of gen- 
tlemen on their best horses, richly caparisoned. Pre- 



182 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



ceded and followed by " pifFani, launeddus," and other 
country music: the gorgeous carriage then slowly ad- 
vances ; it consists principally of fine plate-glass, and con- 
taining the image of the Saint surrounded with lighted 
candles, is drawn by two oxen, of a breed kept sacred 
for this pious purpose. Then comes the most singular 
part of the procession : all the females of Cagliari and 
the adjacent villages, peeresses and peasants, high and 
low, old and young, follow in a promiscuous tide, mixing 
every variety of costume, without order or ceremony ; 
every one being under the same obligatory vow to 
accompany the carriage as far as the ScafFa. This is an 
isthmus between the lake and the bay, supposed by the 
credulous to have been formed by the saint, for the 
accommodation of this ceremony. The procession is 
closed by a long train of militia on horseback variously 
dressed, yet all with the red " beretta," gun, and knife. 
I remarked to an acquaintance, that everybody appeared 
to be much attached to St. Effisius; "Ah!" said he, 
" it is with great reason ; he saved our city from a dread- 
ful plague, — he gave us rain when every other part of 
the island suffered from drought, — and he frustrated the 
designs of the French in 1793." My informant added, 
that the Saint would 66 sleep" that night at Saint Rocco, 
on his way to the place of martyrdom. The service 
celebrated in the little church near Cape Pula is magni- 
ficent ; and, on the fourth day, the procession returns to 
Cagliari, attended as it first set out. The life, acts, and 
death of St. Effisius, " cun sas glorias postumas," have 



OF SARDINIA. 



183 



been described in an " ottava rima" poem in three cantos, 
reprinted in Cagliari in 1787 ; and in its minute descrip- 
tion of the preceding ceremony, I was amused with the 
following passage : 

" Hat de pius, una adjunta invenzione, 

S'affettu cun su Santu a pius mostrare ; 
Et est, d'haver dispostu su timone 

De su cocxu, pro poderlu tirare, 
Sos homines, de santa devotsione 

Trattos ; cale sun gosu populare 
Tota sa plebbe in Londra, a cadu istante 

Con sos Milordos, faghet exultante.'" 

St. Gavino is holden in great veneration in the 
Capo di Sopra, though few particulars of his life and 
martyrdom are known, except that he suffered decapi- 
tation in the reign of Hadrian, in company with the 
Sts. Proto and Januarius, by whom he had been 
converted. Their three bodies were cast into the sea 
from the cliffs of Bulagni; and being subsequently 
found floating, by some pious Christians, and buried 
in a cave, were discovered eight centuries afterwards, 
in consequence of a dream, by Comida, the judge, 
and his sister Catharine. On the annual festival at 
Porto Torres, the inhabitants of all the towns and 
adjacent villages assemble on the spot, bringing with 
them the various articles of good cheer : while 
the men arrange the entertainment, their wives and 
daughters display their e< gran tenuta," and the whole 
plain quickly becomes a most animated scene, the cos- 
tume being as varied as it is singular. Many are the 



184 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



vows of penance that are to be fulfilled on this occasion, 
and the consequent voluntary punishments are self in- 
flicted, in the church of St. Gavino. The nave of this old 
and curious edifice is supported by twenty-eight columns ; 
under the high altar is a cryptic sanctuary, containing 
the martyr's tomb, with a light continually burning on it, 
and having the colossal statues of seventeen Sardinian 
saints, standing in niches around it. The devotees enter 
the church on their knees, in which attitude they shuffle 
along to the high altar, and thence to each of the columns, 
which, as well as the legs of the wooden horse of Saint 
Gavino, are frequently kissed : they then descend to the 
sanctuary, and embrace the feet of all the statues, muttering 
at the same time their palinodia and supplications. The 
men afterwards parade round the church, sustaining a 
self-flagellation, which completes their expiation ; and the 
rest of the night is passed in orgies truly bacchanalian. 
I happened to be lying off the port during one of these 
festivals ; and in the general anxiety to see the ship, the 
church seemed for a time to be almost deserted ; for from 
the earliest dawn till the close of day, there were con- 
stantly twenty or thirty boats, and small craft along-side, 
containing from twenty to fifty persons in each, and 
some crowded with even a greater number, singing, 
screaming, crying, and making every imaginable kind of 
noise. I had witnessed a scene of a similar character at 
Owhyhee, in which I thought the clamorous joy, tumult, 
and novelty, could not be surpassed : but this, though 
in Europe, was not a less singular one; and the " ballo 



OF SARDINIA. 



185 



tondo" was danced for the first time, I suppose, on the 
deck of a British man-of-war. On our landing, an un- 
expected source of diversion presented itself for the hun- 
dreds assembled on the mole : — a poor Irish woman 
with one eye, " but that was a piercer,*" who had married 
a Piedmontese soldier, ran out of the tower, placed her- 
self before us, and dropping low curtsies, welcomed 
6C our honours," at which the Sards sat up loud peals of 
laughter, never having seen a salute of the kind before. 

At Alghero, the anniversary of Bonaventura on the 
14th of July, is a scene of boisterous diversion and devo- 
tion ; in which the violent exercise of yelling, praying, 
singing, and laughing, are calculated to make a spectator 
imagine the anthesteria of the Greeks were revived. On 
the summit of a high hill over Gonnari, is a greatly 
venerated church of the holy virgin ; at whose annual 
fete in September, a fair is holden for several days, and 
is resorted to by people from all parts of the island. At 
Quartu, some oxen are annually selected in May, to 
walk by pairs in procession, their horns being decorated 
with showy ribands, and gay-coloured cloths thrown 
over their backs, reaching nearly to the ground. At 
Stampace, during the feast of St. Antonio, the u sottiglio," 
a species of the cuccagna, or may -pole, is erected, where 
by agility and art, a successful competitor gains a cock, 
or other trifle, as a prize. On the 19th of April, there 
is always a grand Te Deum celebrated at Cagliari, ac- 
companied by a festival, in commemoration of the siege 
being raised in 1793. Near Capu Terra are the springs 



186 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



of Santa Barbara, a Sardinian virgin and martyr, with 
a small chapel, beautifully situated on a hill, command- 
ing an extensive view : here, on the Sunday of Pentecost, 
a holiday is celebrated that draws a large assemblage of 
people together, to enjoy the amusements. At the village 
of Decimu-mannu (which is entered from Siliqua 3 by 
crossing two bridges,) a busy fair of eight days duration 
takes place, in honour of Santa Gregu, at which much 
traffic is carried on, the greater part of the population of 
Cagliari attending, some on foot, some in "tracche," or 
covered carts, and others on horseback ; and permanent 
stalls for shops, the Baleta of the middle ages, are built 
around the little old church where the virgin was tortured 
and buried. St. Antioco, the tutelary patron of the 
Suleis, is said to have been a son of Santa Rosa, born in 
Mauritania, and exiled to Sardinia by Hadrian ; after 
divers ineffectual attempts to destroy him by starvation, 
burning, boiling, and being thrown to wild beasts. His 
relics were discovered in 1615, on the island now bearing 
his name, and conveyed with great solemnity to Iglesias, to 
be deposited in the cathedral, until the island should be 
re-peopled, when they were to be restored. This con- 
dition, however, has never been fulfilled, though on the 
Monday after the second week in Easter, (a more conve- 
nient season than the proper anniversary in November,) 
the head, enclosed in a silver case, is carried there in 
grand procession, on a visit, accompanied by an immense 
concourse of people, from all parts of the country ; and 
the ceremonies, as usual, conclude with horse races and a 



OF SARDINIA, 



187 



fair. The tomb was discovered near the ancient necro- 
polis of the Sulcis, and notice thereof sent to the arch- 
bishop of Cagliari, who, with his canons, repaired thither 
and directed the removal of the precious prize. 

St. Lussorio was a noble warrior of Cagliari, who 
being converted to Christianity, was beheaded, together 
with his young disciples Cisello and Camerino, on the 
25th of August ; on which day various amusements, civil 
and religious, take place on a spot outside of Pauli, 
called Frateria. One of the grandest holidays in Sar- 
dinia is celebrated in honour of the virgin of the martyrs, 
on the 6th of June, by a fair at the village of Fonni in 
the Barbargia Ollolai, the highest inhabited site in the 
island; and is a great mart for linens, rugs, " frassadas," 
or quilts, almonds, walnuts, and chesnuts. St. Priam, 
the " Santu Pilimu" of the Sard s, was one of the four 
proto-martyrs of Sardinia, and suffered under Nero. His 
anniversary is celebrated on the last days of May, with great 
festivity, in a romantic part of the curadoria of Sarrabus, 
where there is a rustic church on a hill, with a few 
houses for holding a cotemporary fair : from the purity 
of the air, and the beauty of the scenery, it is much at- 
tended, though the sudden rising of the river has more 
than once kept the company longer on the spot than 
they desired. It is a good feature of all these fairs, and 
indeed of Sardinia in general, that there are no lotteries, 
or other reprehensible mode of public gambling. 

The periodical festivities of the Gallura are. of a more 
peculiar stamp, combining rusticity and hospitality, with 



188 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



independence and ferocity. The principal of these are 
celebrated at Arsequina and Logu Santu ; and being 
precisely similar in their practices, a description of the 
former will suffice. It occurs on the third Sunday in 
May : we landed on the Saturday, and rode up to the 
chapel of Santa Maria, which, with two other small 
buildings, are on a beautiful hill covered with trees, ex- 
cept in front, where an open spot overlooks a woody 
plain. Crowds of people were congregating from all 
parts ; some were employed in killing and suspending the 
devoted animals to the boughs of the trees, others had 
already proceeded to roasting, and there was scarcely a 
bush that had not a horse tied to it. The feast is regu- 
lated by a company of thirty or forty Capo Pastori, en- 
titled the i( soprastanti" of the ceremonies ; each of whom 
must provide a sheep or goat, twelve pounds of cheese, 
and thirty of bread ; and they must jointly furnish oil, 
candles, fuel, cooking utensils, and four or five hundred 
bottles of wine, on which all comers are gratuitously re- 
galed. In a short time the scene derived great interest 
from the activity and bustle of such a multitude ; and, 
under the canopy of heaven, various parties commenced 
dancing the 66 salto Sardo," the " ballo tondo," and the 
more lively 4 6 pelicordina while, in other parts, poets 
were heard reciting their Amcebaean verses in coarse reci- 
tative. The variety in the dress of the females, and the 
dark caps, jackets, and kilts, over the white drawers and 
neat-laced gaiters of the men, gave a picturesque effect 
to the whole, which was not a little enhanced by the 



OF SARDINIA. 



189 



black busby beards, long straight hair, and hardy fea- 
tures of the " pastori," whose truculent aspect seems to 
authorize the custom in Barbary, of distinguishing Chris- 
tians from Sards. In the evening, a long tract of ground 
was strewed with leaves of the " Scilla maritima" and 
rushes, to the height of five or six inches, as a substitute 
for a table, and down sat the multitude to a repast, 
served by the soprastanti in person. Precedency, how- 
ever, was duly attended to ; for one part of this Celtic 
table was covered with napkins, and furnished with par- 
ticular dishes, while the indigent were placed to more 
common viands at the opposite end. After supper, the 
amusements recommenced, and continued throughout the 
night ; those that were fatigued rested under the trees, 
so that, at day-break, I observed groups of men, women, 
and children lying in every direction — though there was 
no lack of merry people to keep up the dance and the 
song. One poet, in particular, continued till morning was 
far advanced, with a ditty that appeared deeply interest- 
ing to his auditors ; but his voice was harsh and very 
monotonous. The atmosphere was beautifully clear ; and 
the silvery moon, together with the dulcet notes of nume- 
rous nightingales, enhanced the pleasures of the night. 
On the Sunday morning, the chapel bell began to ring, 
when the whole multitude moved to the front of the 
church overlooking the plain, to see the sacred flag of 
Tempio brought in procession. On reaching the foot of 
the hill, this banner, gorgeously decorated, and sur- 
mounted by a silver cross, is planted in an open space, 



190 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



and several horses are then galloped to display their 
speed. After this, the banner is brought up the hill, on 
a fine horse, by one of the members of a family, whose 
privilege it is to carry it, and paraded in the direction of 
the sun, round the church three times ; the people catch- 
ing at it, and kissing it with great devotion, during its 
progress. Prayers, dances, poems, dinner and supper, 
conclude the day ; and on the Monday the whole party 
proceeds a few hundred yards to the 3.W. to the ruinous 
chapel of St. Pietro di Baldolinu, where the ceremonies 
and feasting are repeated. This chapel is the charnel- 
house of the shepherds of the vicinity, whose bodies are 
thrown into a large vault, without lime, forming such a 
revolting and offensively -putrid mass, that the u sopras- 
tanti" have been obliged to erect an altar for the cele- 
bration of prayer, outside of the edifice. Three men had 
been murdered by banditti, and thrown in without any 
ceremony by the shepherds, only a few days before my 
arrival ; for there is no coroner's inquest, to take cogni- 
zance of secret murder here. I was informed that a man, 
" sotto penitenza," occasionally descends this disgusting 
cavern, to clear away the bodies from under the opening, 
precaution being first taken, to lower down and burn 
several torches. The feast of Santa Maria de Arsequina 
has seldom been celebrated without the sacrifice of three 
or four lives : the year preceding my visit two of the 
' ' carabinieri reali" had been killed ; and I was shown a 
young man, who on the same occasion received a ball 
through the breast; but having thus satisfied his foe, 



OF SARDINIA. 



191 



according to the Sard code of honour, and fortunately 
recovering, was, with his wife and a beautiful child, now 
enjoying the gaieties in safety. I could not learn why 
there were no carabineers in attendance on this anniver- 
sary ; but the consequence was a numerous concourse of 
banditti from the circumjacent fastnesses, notwithstanding 
the presence of a great many <c barancelli," who, it is 
known, will not arrest a man that " is only an assassin." 
The arrival of two Englishmen at this festival, was a 
novelty that appeared to give infinite satisfaction, espe- 
cially as Mr. Craig took a Corsican fiddler with him, 
which was the only music, except jews harps, and human 
voices, for hundreds to dance to. Another circumstance 
that excited many remarks, was the extreme gaiety of 
two young priests, whose dancing and singing gave 
great offence to many of the grave elders : indeed, the 
regard of the country people for their religious observ- 
ances is very remarkable; an instance of which I noticed 
at an entertainment, where much anger arose from a 
Piedmontese officer giving the name of " Spirito Santo" 
to a dish of stewed pigeons. 

Dancing constitutes a prominent feature on all public 
festivities, and most villages have their 66 prasciera," or 
area, for the express purpose. The most national is the 
" carola," or " ballo tondo," in which many people join 
hands, and make a monotonous circular movement. In 
the Capo di Sopra it is danced to the voices of several 
men, who stand in the centre, holding each other by the 
shoulders, and singing in a peculiarly powerful and gut- 



192 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



tural tone, called " tripah ;" to attain which accomplish- 
ment, they practise from an early age. In the Capo di 
Sotto, they dance to the music of the 4 4 launedda," a sin- 
gularly ancient instrument in use among the peasants ; it 
consists of three or four reeds of various lengths, con- 
stituting two octaves, a tierce, and a quint, with a small 
mouth-piece at the end of each. Like a Roman tibicen, 
the performer takes these into his mouth, and inflates the 
whole at once, with such an acquired skill, that most of 
them can keep on for a couple of hours without a mo- 
ment's intermission, appearing to breathe and play simul- 
taneously. He, however, who can sound five reeds is 
esteemed the Coryphaeus, and becomes the grand object 
of emulation and envy to the other players ; amongst 
whom he is sometimes distinguished by having a very 
fanciful launedda, made of the leg bones of the flamingo. 
Nothing can exceed the gravity of the dancers on these 
occasions, nor the monotony of the short, mincing steps 
with which they advance and retire, then shuffle on a 
little sideways again, to revert to their former motions. 
Married people unite their palms and entwine the fingers, 
but all others are careful only to join hands, for attempt- 
ing a greater freedom would be resented with bloodshed. 
In this manner the dance commences with a slow step, 
quickens according to the cadence, and continues an hour 
or two ; but no symptom of joy or satisfaction escapes 
any one, particularly the women, who keep their eyes 
cast on the ground nearly the whole time. 

In witnessing these festivals, it is impossible for any 



OF SARDINIA, 



193 



one who has travelled in Greece not to be struck with 
the similarity which, in many points, exists between the 
Sards and the Greeks. Vestiges of many customs may 
have descended from the Hellenic colonies, and from the 
garrisons of the eastern empire. Not only are their 
arms, music, dances, dresses, and manners in close re- 
semblance, but many of their words and superstitions are 
exactly the same ; so that the opportunities 1 have had 
of comparing the two nations, would lead me to infer the 
partial identity of their origin. Old age is most affec- 
tionately respected by both nations ; the ties of blood 
are closely binding ; and there is, moreover, a degree of 
adopted relationship called <c compare," of stronger en- 
gagement than is known under the common acceptation 
of the term in other countries ; and which I found exist- 
ing also in Zante, with the same appellation, and nearly 
to the same effect. 

Weddings occasion great rejoicings, and are more re- 
markable for ceremony than solemnity. When a farmer 
of the Campidano wishes to marry, he presents himself 
in the evening, accompanied by a few confidential friends, 
at the door of the " Stazio," or house where his sweet- 
heart resides. A gentle tap is the signal of their arrival, 
when the father politely demands their business at that 
hour. The usual figurative answer is, that they are in 
search of a lost lamb, " cilchemu una pecora palduta." 
The father replies in the same style, and affecting not to 
be aware of their object, introduces his daughters in 
succession; asking, on the presentation of each, " is this 

O 



194 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



it ?" — taking care that the one, who is the object of the 
lover's search, shall be the last. If the suitor is favourably 
received, the contract is immediately entered into, and 
" segnali," or presents, are reciprocally exchanged. A 
week before the nuptials take place, as all the goods and 
chattels in the house of the young couple must be quite 
new, the removal of the property and provisions to their 
abode forms a procession of considerable interest; the 
friends of both parties attending in their finest attire, ac- 
companied by the best players of the " launedda." The 
marriage is celebrated in the bride's parish, after the 
bans have been published three successive weeks; and 
previous to removing to their new residence, the bride 
and bridegroom partake of refreshments out of the same 
plate, at her father's house. On arriving at their future 
home, which, as in the days of Juvenal, is decorated with 
garlands of flowers, the matrons sprinkle salt and wheat 
over them, and the day concludes with a banquet. In 
the inland and more northern villages the customs differ 
in some respects ; the suitor there repairs to the house of 
his mistress, with three or four intimate friends and re- 
lations, who preserve the ancient name given on such 
occasions almost entire, being called " paralymphos. ,, The 
father gives them instant admittance, and begs them to 
be seated ; a profound silence ensues, until an elder of 
known probity, invited for the purpose, inquires the 
meaning of seeing so many good people at his friend's 
house, which is followed by an explanation on the part 
of the youth. Conditions are then agreed upon, and the 



OF SARDINIA. 



195 



whole is confirmed by the young man taking the hand of 
the fair one, and sealing the contract with an affectionate 
kiss i he then seats himself by her side, and each of his 
friends salutes the bride elect, depositing, at the same 
time, a small piece of money in her bosom. This 
" cujugnu,'" or betrothing, generally takes place in the 
presence of the rector, and another priest, to confer addi- 
tional validity on it ; the engagement, however, is not 
binding in the eye of the law, but can at any time be 
dissolved by mutual consent, or even by the wish of the 
girl alone. The nuptials frequently do not take place 
for three or four years after, when the damsel is often in 
the plight of those ladies who love their lords, which, 
though it does not altogether quadrate with our ideas of 
purity, is not deemed at all immoral by them. 

In the cities many funerals are conducted by frater- 
nities, who are associated for that purpose, and the va- 
rious members attend in their hooded disguise. Persons 
of consequence are generally interred in the churches, at 
night; but the bodies of the poorer classes, unattended by 
relations, are consigned to the 6( puticulae"" of the Campo 
Santo, with as little ceremony as was practised by their 
ancestors. In the interior districts, the funeral rites 
over a man who has been killed by an adversary, are 
both mournful and affecting. The friends of the deceased, 
with a party of women clad in black, and hired to mourn 
like the ancient ? 6 praeficae," go to the house where the 
corpse is laid out. A prelude of shrieking, tearing the 
hair, and rolling on the ground, together with other 

O 2 



196 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



frantic gestures, then commences, which may be compared 
to the " lessus" of old; after which, the valour and 
virtues of the deceased are recounted by one of the women 
in extemporaneous verse, in the manner of the " naenia" 
of ancient Rome, and the coronach of Scotland. As the 
theme advances, hatred of the enemy and vengeance on 
the murderer are urged; every strophe accompanied by 
the " ululates,' 1 or shrill scream of the women, in chorus, 
and the sobs of the friends of the defunct. The period 
of mourning is usually six months ; but the villagers more 
frequently continue it twelve, and the widow of a mur- 
dered man, till she is avenged, or often for life. In the 
Barbargia there was an extraordinary practice of throt- 
tling a dying person in hopeless cases ; this act was per- 
formed by a hired woman called " accabadora," or 
finisher; but the custom was abolished sixty or seventy 
years ago, by Padre Vassello, who visited those districts 
as a missionary. I was assured that, in some parts of 
the same territory, it is not unusual to place a small 
piece of money in the mouth of a corpse. 

The Sards are rather superstitious than bigotted, and 
from their less advanced state of civilization, retain many 
singular usages ; some in common with their neighbours, 
and others peculiar to themselves. And as, by noticing 
and recording popular prejudices, which are identified 
with those of remote regions, the affinity of nations may 
be traced, I shall here insert a few of the most remark- 
able. No where is the very ancient and general habit of 
blessing a person, on sneezing, more strictly observed; nor 



OF SARDINIA. 



197 



the wide-spread terrors of the " pigai ogu" or evil eye, 
more dreaded. Precisely as on the occasion of the kkko 
MaSw of the ancient Greeks, if a child's beauty is praised 
without " God preserve it so' 1 being instantly added, the 
friend nearest must spit in its face ; and an accidental omis- 
sion of the pious ejaculation, more than once procured me 
cold looks. There is generally some finery hung about 
the waist of an infant, to attract the visiter's eye from its 
face; and the purifying saliva of the mother is frequently 
applied in a similar manner to that of the " matertera 11 of 
Persius. In bargaining for a horse, no two men will 
conclude their contract in the animal's presence: — thus, 
also, a peasant at Domus-noas, who had agreed to sell me 
some oranges, led me from tree to tree until something 
else arrested my attention, before he would pluck them. 
They dislike to be asked their age, and will seldom give 
a direct answer to personal questions ; a custom prevail- 
ing also amongst the Moors and Arabs of Barbary. 
The dislike to mention death was also a peculiarity of 
the ancient Romans, and still exists with most Maho- 
metans; — while, with a similar feeling, the prison is 
termed a domicilium, and the condemned felon a patient. 
The heads of criminals are frequently stolen from the 
gallows, for the sake of the iron spikes that transfix them? 
in order to make shoes for their horses, and thereby 
render them swift and sure. The natives of some of 
the villages in the Barbargia, Ogliastra, and Monte 
Acuto, retain the Greek custom of shooting at a fog, or 
impending storm ; and moreover entertain a fearful hor- 



198 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



ror of thunder and lightning, as manifestations of divine 
anger. 

In the Gallura, a piece of bone, a written sentence, an 
invocation to the moon, or any trifling relic, is credu- 
lously worn, to guard against the ambush of enemies, 
and the wiles of the devil. The common dislike to thir- 
teen at table, is of more ancient date than to be accounted 
for, by supposing the thirteenth man to be typical of 
Judas. Placing a loaf with its bottom upwards is an 
insult to the beneficence of the Creator. Letting salt 
fall, denotes evil. Spilling water on a table is unlucky, 
but wine is propitious. Spilling olive oil in a house, 
betokens death. Writing or playing at cards on a white 
cloth is a bad omen; and if three lights are accidentally 
put upon the table, the master of the house will soon 
make his will. A hen crowing like a cock before mid- 
night, indicates loss of property; and the sudden appear- 
ance of ravens forebodes evil. The howling of a dog at 
night, or thejiooting of the owl, called iS barbagiannu," 
augur death ; and the latter are thought fatal to infants, 
by infusing poison through the roof: but the cottage 
that is visited by the little 66 colura niedda," or black 
snake, is esteemed particularly fortunate. No peasant 
will fire at a swallow, a bird sacred to Santa Lucia, the 
protectress of eyes ; from a prejudice that he will ever 
after be incapable of hitting a bird, that his wife will die 
within a year, and other misfortunes occur. The red- 
breast, as in most other countries, is looked upon with 
kindness; in Alghero it is honoured with the name of 



OF SARDINIA. 



199 



the " counsellor/' and in Sassari is called " brother Ga- 
vino," after the favourite and tutelary saint. Firing 
guns and pistols after sunset, is held to scare good fortune 
from the dwelling. If the cross enters a house on a 
Friday, or a funeral procession stops at the door, it por- 
tends that extreme unction will be administered in the 
family, three times during that year. No work is pro- 
jected on a Friday, as a person so doing would never 
enjoy the result ; whilst to tell a Friday's dream, incurs 
both anger and danger. Children who do not cry when 
baptized, will prove unlucky — a prejudice that insures a 
plentiful sprinkling to the little sufferer; and the name 
which is given, is usually that of a favourite saint, in the 
full spirit of the adage, " bonum nomen, bonum omen." 

Conjuration is so firmly believed to be efficacious in 
the discovery of treasures, that two notable instances of 
folly occurred while I was in the island; — one was an 
attempt of two monks to find gold coins at Castel Doria; 
and the other was that of some young priests, repairing 
to the chapel above Alghero, to interrogate the nun who 
is supposed to haunt St. Julian's hill, whence they were 
scared away by the sudden report of a gun. Witchcraft, 
or the " fai mazzinas," is regarded with terror in the 
cottages ; and the late practices of the parish-priest of 
Selargius, in promoting a belief in it, cannot be too 
severely reprehended. Excommunication is seldom ful- 
minated, the principal occasions being, the murder of a 
member of the church, theft of ecclesiastical property, 
and a fraudulent defalcation in tithe matters. Exorcism 



wo 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



is practised by the capuchins, during which ceremony, 
the unhappy patient is covered all over with the most 
miraculous relics that can be procured; and after the 
monk professes to have obtained his prayer, he asks the 
spirit three several times, to give a signal of his having 
left the afflicted man. Many of the patients are proba- 
bly impostors ; but the belief in demoniacal possession is 
very prevalent, and the truth of some extraordinary anec- 
dotes, related to convince me, was strongly vouched for. 
It would be difficult to account for such illusions, did not 
experience teach us how often mental and bodily debility 
give form and fashion to such distressing chimeras. 
Against these and all other evils, amulets are in such 
general use, that even robbers and assassins, however 
deep in crime, besides earnestly praying for divine aid, 
never fail to be provided with one previous to going forth 
on their detestable excursions. Should they fail in their 
object, they consider it as the effect of want of precaution 
or faith in themselves, rather than a deficiency of virtue 
in the charm. I procured one of these, and unrolled it ; 
on the top was a bust of the holy Virgin looking down 
on St. Francis, who is holding out a scroll to a kneeling 
friar, whereon are the 24th, 25th, and 26th verses of the 
sixth chapter of the book of Numbers; beneath these 
was written : — (i Questa santa benedizione diede Iddio a 
Mose, e Gesu Christo al P. S. Francesco, chiunque la 
portera indosso con viva fede, e stata sperimentata contro 
fulmini, fantasmi, malcaduco, dolori di parto, febri, 
morte improvise, pericoli di mare, insidie d' inimici, ed 
altri mali." 



OF SARDINIA, 



201 



These superstitions, though slighted by some, are 
habitual to the greater part of the population ; and, in 
closing this chapter, it may further illustrate the subject, 
to introduce two or three recent examples in proof of its 
not being the uneducated persons only, who are infected 
with them. In 1793, on the French invasion, the statue 
of St. Effisius was carried in procession, and placed on 
the mole to preserve the Darsena ; where, wonderful to 
relate, c£ it was scarcely set down, before a shell fell at 
its feet, and thenceforward all the missiles in that vicinity 
fell harmless. r) On the 30th of January, a mysterious 
little bird settled on the saint, during the enemy's most 
furious cannonade, and there it remained till night : the 
day after, it re-appeared, and animated the garrison to 
their duty, for " they could not be ignorant of the celes- 
tial origin of this messenger . v ' It was moreover ob- 
served, that " the shots which were fired, while the bird 
looked on, were all capital hits. 1 '' 

On the 5th of May, 1801, while the capuchin nuns, at 
Ozieri, were deliberating on the election of a new abbess, 
they suddenly perceived the countenance of Sister Maria 
Rosa Serra illumined by such a heavenly inspiration in 
her eyes, that they involuntarily broke forth in admira- 
tion of her angelic aspect. Whilst influenced by this 
sacred rapture, she addressed the astonished sisterhood 
in a voice superhuman ; and exclaimed, that if after the 
administration of the sacrament on the following Friday, 
they should see one amongst them 44 alia Nazzarena," 
they might feel assured, she was the abbess elect. This 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



prophecy having been communicated to the confessor, 
and to the Pope's delegate, the appointed time was 
anxiously awaited. At length, the sacrament had scarcely 
been received, when Maria Rosa's head began to bleed 
all round, and continued so to do, until her clothes be- 
came saturated, and herself very faint from loss of blood. 
The delegate was now sent for, but he being unable to 
attend immediately, desired through the confessor, that 
her head should be laid bare, and narrowly examined by 
the sisterhood. Agitation and holy terror left very few 
the power of discerning, from whence the warm blood 
flowed, but there seemed to be the wounds of very fine 
thorns. The happy patient revived a little on hearing 
her revered confessor's voice, and, at his instigation, be- 
seeched the Almighty to prove whether this was his 
sacred invitation, by commanding the effusion to cease. 
In a few moments her prayers were granted, to the utter 
astonishment and clear conviction of all around! The 
delegate now arrived, and inquired as critically into the 
circumstance as a judge, who receives no fact without 
clear evidence; he also examined the wounds, which re- 
opened and bled at his touch. He moreover desired the 
nuns to scrutinize her body most strictly ; and, in a few 
minutes, they returned declaring, that they found so deep 
a wound in her side that, on placing the hand near it, 
the very breath from the lungs could be felt. Being thus 
indisputably Convinced of the divine source of the miracle, 
the delegate inquired into the private sentiments of each 
nun, and found them determined to vote for the favourite 



OF SARDINIA. 



203 



of heaven, although he enumerated all her weaknesses 
and deficiencies. This done, the public election took 
place, and the unanimous choice falling on Maria Rosa, 
whose piety and prudence had been remarkable, long 
before this miraculous indication " of God himself in her 
favour," the nomination was confirmed, though her age 
was only thirty-five years, whilst that required by the 
Tridentine council was forty. 

On the anniversary of S. Saturninus, in 1823, a priest 
in the Curadoria of Sarrabus, met a farmer with a 
" marrone" on his shoulder ; and piously cautioning him 
against working on so sacred a festival, received for 
answer, that having sent his servants to mass, he could 
have no intention of committing such a sin himself. But 
no sooner was the Monitor out of sight, than he pro- 
ceeded to his field, and fearlessly began to hoe the 
ground, muttering "What is S. Saturninus to me?" 
Scarcely were these words out of his mouth, when his 
limbs became utterly powerless. In this condition he 
was found on the following morning ; when being truly 
penitent, the priest earnestly implored the clemency of 
the offended saint. The mediation was accepted, and 
the contrite sinner repaired to church to return grateful 
thanks for this salutary admonition. 

This subject may be concluded with a fact well 
known in Cagliari : two or three years ago, a noble- 
man of the highest rank in the island, hearing that a 
swarm of locusts were devouring the harvest on his 
estate at Punta Carbonara, sent a priest to excommunicate 



/ 



204 



OF THE INHABITANTS 



them; and he was actually made to believe that, in con- 
sequence of the anathema, they precipitated themselves 
into the sea, and were drowned ! Well might poor 
Burton exclaim — 64 a lamentable thing it is to consider 
how many myriades of men this idolatrie and superstition 
(for that comprehends all) hath infatuated in all ages, 
besotted by the blind zeale, which is religion's ape, 
religion's bastard, religion's shadow, false glasse." 



OF SARDINIA. 



205 



Chapter IV. 
OF THE COASTS OF SARDINIA. 

Cagliari is one of the most ancient cities of Sardinia; 
and though several of its claims to precedence are dis- 
puted by Sassari, it is now fully established as the seat 
of government, and recognized as the metropolis of the 
island. The site was probably selected by the early 
Greeks, on account of the natural facilities which it 
afforded, of forming an acropolis and a cothon ; two 
objects of the first consideration with Hellenic founders. 
Though vestiges of the ancient city may be traced be- 
yond Stampace, it appears in the middle ages to have 
consisted merely of what is now called the " casteddu," 
or castle ; a triangular space which occupies the summit 
of a hill about 400 feet above the beach, walled round, 
and having a citadel on the northern side. To this were 
successively added the Marina, a portion extending down 
the west face of the hill, from the castle to the sea ; 
and the suburbs of Stampace and Villanova, which, 
although on the outside of the fortifications, enjoy all 
the rights and privileges of the city. These four towns 
constitute the modern Cagliarj, and are situated at the 
N.E. shore of a spacious bay, where shipping of every 
kind ride so securely, as to offer great inducement for 



206 



OF THE COASTS 



extended commerce. Besides the mole of the Pratique 
office, — opposite to the Marina gate, there is a very com- 
modious Darsena, or pier harbour, at the south angle of 
the town-wall ; capable of containing fourteen or sixteen 
vessels of a tolerable size, besides small craft. My ob- 
servations for ascertaining the geographical position of 
Cagliari, and regulating the rate of the chronometers, 
were made at the mole-head battery of this harbour, 
which, according to the results obtained, is in 39° 12' 13" 
latitude north, and 9° 06' 44" longitude east of Green- 
wich. 

The gulf of Cagliari extends from Pula on the west, 
to cape Carbonara on the east side, a distance of twenty- 
four miles across, and about twelve in depth, with good 
anchorage all over it, after getting into soundings. Ships 
usually lie about a mile S.W. by S. from the mole, in 
six or eight fathoms water, on an excellent bottom of 
mud. The land winds are the most frequent and 
violent, especially those from N. and N.W., which predo- 
minate nearly two-thirds of the year. When the gulls 
fly confusedly about the bay, it is thought to predict an 
approaching gale ; but no apprehension need be enter- 
tained, as it never blows home from seaward. 

Provisions of all kinds are to be obtained at reasonable 
prices, but water is so scarce as to be sold at the doors of 
the houses. The castle is partly supplied from wells of 
extraordinary depth, by the constant labour of a number 
of men and horses ; and partly from cisterns. It has 
often been proposed to restore the fine ancient aqueduct, 



OF SARDINIA. 



207 



of which some extensive remains exist near the Roman 
bridge at Siliqua ; but the government is startled at the 
probable expense ; though the money annually paid for 
the supplying the barracks, prisons, and tobacco manu- 
factory, would render it a desirable measure. I suggested 
to Captain Musso, an intelligent engineer officer, the 
practicability of conveying water from the springs of 
Domus-noas, (which are of sufficient elevation for the 
purpose,) by means of iron pipes, as a method both easy 
and cheap. A good tank was constructed in the Darsena 
for the royal shipping, in 1823, but strangers must either 
go, or send, to Pula for water ; the flat-bottomed boats 
of the bay, however, make expeditious passages to and 
from that place, and may be hired on reasonable terms. 

Spreading over an eminence that commands the whole 
bay, Cagliari has an imposing effect from the sea; though, 
on landing, the steep narrow streets, paved with small 
pointed stones, the nauseous effluvia of a sink at each 
door, and the custom of every window being furnished 
with clothes-lines reaching to the opposite houses, destroy 
much of the illusion. Yet, there are some excellent 
public buildings, about thirty churches, and many very 
spacious houses; with a population of nearly 26,000 
people. In the castle are the vice-regal palace, the 
cathedral, the university, and the public seminaries. 
There are also a strong citadel, and the stout square 
towers of the Elephant, the Lion, and the Eagle, (three 
good specimens of Pisan art,) under the special protec- 
tion of St. Pancras; two of which command superb 



208 



OF THE COASTS 



views. At the principal gate there is a small image of 
St. Antonio ." di fuoco," where a person who has been 
robbed, bestows a trifling value of oil, for the lamp that 
is constantly burning before the image, to propitiate the 
recovery of his effects. All the nobles, court adherents, 
and persons of distinction, dwell in the castle; a residence 
on the Marina being thought fit only for merchants, and 
it would therefore be seldom visited, except for the parties 
which are given by the foreign consuls, who, from early 
custom, generally reside there. The " conversazioni" 
are conducted as in other parts of the south of Europe, 
and are consequently as devoid of interest, or intellectual 
improvement ; for the routine of topics in fashionable 
discourse, is as limited and mechanical, as the set of 
tunes on the barrel of a hand-organ. 

From being the metropolis, and from the portion of 
commerce which it enjoys, Cagliari has a busy appear- 
ance on the whole, except at noon, when the shops are shut 
up, and the streets deserted until after three o'clock ; the 
intervening time being spent in dining and indulging in 
the siesta. Here, as in Italy, coffee-houses and apothe- 
caries shops are places of general and idle resort ; where 
the various news of the day is discussed, and all the 
weighty affairs of the city are commented upon. The 
theatre is badly supported, the stage being occupied by 
an indifferent itinerant company, who repeat the same 
opera " usque ad nauseam,'" to very scanty audiences. 
The mention of this establishment, reminds me of an 
unsightly pauper that attends occasionally about the door 



OF SARDINIA. 



209 



of the e£ Caffe del Teatro," and whose deformity almost 
deprives him of the power of locomotion : yet this appa- 
rently miserable object is blessed with the most cheerful 
disposition ; and desirous of seeing the world, has begged 
his way over several parts of Europe. He even went to 
Paris to gratify his inordinate curiosity with a sight of 
Napoleon, and actually received alms both from him and 
from the empress ; but on his return to Sardinia, he was 
plundered of all his gains by a Spanish privateer. He 
has not yet visited England, which is considered by most 
foreigners as the " Ultima Thule and such are the in- 
correct notions of many persons respecting our happy 
island, that it is sometimes a question whether 66 Londra 
is in Inghilterra, or Inghilterra in Londra." 

The cathedral was built by the Pisans, with part of 
the remains of the basilica of Constantine, on a chapel of 
St. Cecilia. The facade is covered with marble slabs, 
and bears a bas-relief over the principal portal, of the 
tutelary protectress, seated at her organ. This expen- 
sive front was paid for by a duty on the wine consumed 
in the city, which exaction has been continued ever 
since. The interior is divided into three naves, leading 
to a fine presbytery, ascended by four ranges of steps, 
with handsome balustrades, and further decorated by 
mmense silver candlesticks; while the front of the high 
altar forms one large bas-relief, of the same precious 
metal. In the chapel on the left, is a handsome mauso- 
leum to the memory of the enterprizing youth Martin, 
King of Sicily, who fell a victim to 66 intemperie r ' within 

P 



210 



OF THE COASTS 



a month after his signal victory at St. Luri. The 
sacristy possesses little of moment, except some Flemish 
paintings representing various events of our Saviour's 
life, and a fine picture by an Italian artist, of Chrisfs 
agony after the scourging. The pride of the cathedral, 
and indeed of Sardinia, is the cryptic sanctuary, wherein 
are the remains of two hundred Sardinian martyrs, re- 
covered by excavation, in the vicinity of the church of 
St. Saturninus, by the primate d'Esquivel, in 1621. The 
descent to it is by a very handsome flight of marble 
steps, at the foot of which the viceroys who die in office, 
and the archbishops, are interred. A large, airy, and 
well-lighted aisle is then entered, having two lateral 
chambers ; the whole of which, together with the embossed 
roof, pilasters, and other architectural ornaments, are 
hewn out of the solid rock. The sides are elaborately 
adorned with various marbles, and divided into small 
compartments, in each of which are contained the relics 
of a martyr, whose name is inscribed in front. The in- 
defatigable Muratori has thrown a doubt on the authen- 
ticity of these remains, thinking that the B.M., by which 
they were recognised, might with equal reason be ren- 
dered Bona? Memoriae, as Beatus Martyr. At this, 
Padre Napoli, in his " Note illustrate e diffuse," is very 
indignant, saying that the B.M. was accompanied by 
palms, blood, and implements of torture; and he de- 
mands, with pious triumph, whether the learned critic 
had reflected on the fact, " that during the solemn trans- 
lation of the bones, all the church bells rang of them- 



OF SARDINIA. 



selves, (suonarano da per se tutte le campane delle chiese,) 
and that moreover, many miraculous cures simultaneously 
occurred !" 

The church and convent of St. Michael is an exten- 
sive establishment belonging to the Jesuits, who, pre- 
vious to their expulsion, possessed large estates ; and not 
only had colleges in Cagliari, Sassari, Alghero, Iglesias, 
Nurri, and Oliena, but the rector of Santa Croce was 
perpetual lord of the village of Musei, (or Jesum re- 
versed,) and exercised baronial jurisdiction over it. The 
order being restored, five Jesuits returned to Cagliari, 
and two to Sassari, in 1823, who are, for the present, 
maintained by the King. The noviciate of the building 
has been used, since the expulsion, as a place of medi- 
tative retirement for the 44 esercitanti," or people sub- 
mitting themselves 10 prayer and penance for eight days 
previous to marriage, before or after a difficult journey, 
on recovering from sickness, and other material incidents 
of human life. This propitiation is also recommended 
to country rectors, previous to their entering upon their 
official charge. But though the apartments and corridors 
were therefore kept in good repair, the plundered books 
were never restored, nor any addition made by those 
who acted the " locum tenens" for so many years ; — - 
indeed, the spacious library room remains so melancholy 
an emblem of neglect, that we might think with Wilis- 
tlecraft, 

There was not, from the prior to the cook, 
A single soul that car'd about a book. 

P 2 



212 



OF THE COASTS 



The church, though small, is entered by a spacious por- 
tico, and is rich in marble ; the twisted columns of the 
several chapels are particularly fine. The high altar is 
expensively decorated, and separated from the main 
body of the church by an alabaster balustrade, opposite 
to which, on each side of the entrance, is the statue of an 
angel holding a vase of holy water. In the anti-sacristy 
is a painting in great esteem with the clergy, — our Saviour, 
supported by the four evangelists, standing on a fountain, 
from which seven streams, typical of the catholic sacra- 
ments, run into a vineyard tended by Jesuits. In one 
group are the principal martyrs of their order, bearing 
the implements with which they were severally tortured ; 
in another part are their missionaries, and in a third 
their general labourers; the last, though armed with 
heavy hammers, and acting on the oifensive, seem to be 
much annoyed by several rapacious heresiarchs, who 
with wolves bodies and human faces, labelled Luther, 
Calvin, Bucerus, &c. are seen stealing the grapes from 
the vines. The sacristy is a neat apartment paved with 
various coloured marbles, possessing an elaborately deco- 
rated ceiling, and furnished with curious inlaid presses 
for the church plate, and sacerdotal garments. Opposite 
to the door, a recess, rich with architectural ornaments, 
contains the virgin of the Conception, standing on a 
silver crescent, with a fine countenance, expressive of 
humility and devotional rapture ; and around the room 
are a series of pictures, in very magnificent frames, cor- 
responding with each other. At my last visit, I found 



OF SARDINIA. 



213 



the Jesuits had taken full possession, and that Padre 
Pizzi, the principal, had hired a sign-painter to deface 
these works of art, by covering Adam and Eve with 
huge goat-skin garments, and all the female breasts with 
heavy daubs of white paint to represent linen ; while not 
only the infant innocents were carefully robed, but all 
statues of little angels in the church were mutilated, so 
as not to offend the eye of chastity ! 

Bear with him, Brutus, 'tis his fashion. 

Several other churches, as San Giuseppe, Sant' Anna, 
&c, are also worthy of observation ; but from the pro- 
fusion of bad frescoes, and the curtain before the high 
altar, many have a theatrical appearance, especially those 
of St. Sepulchre, St. Elalio, and St. Rosario : nor is the 
illusion at all weakened on witnessing some of the cere- 
monies, and hearing the lively music by which they are 
accompanied, to which the well-known lines of Pope 
may faithfully be applied : — 

And now the chapel's silver bell you hear, 
That summons you to all the pride of prayer ; 
Light quirks of music, broken and uneven, 
Make the soul dance upon a jig to heaven. 

Amongst the ecclesiastical admiranda of Cagliari, the 
oratory, built by St. Augustine, during his short visit 
to Sardinia, must not be overlooked, as it is said, that 
one of the beams intended for the roof proving too short, 
after it had been dragged up with infinite labour, the 
saint by the mere application of his arms pulled it out to 



214 



OF THE COASTS 



the required length. In 1656, the viceroy announced 
his intention of razing this edifice, as interfering with the 
defences ; but the night before the intended sacrilege, his 
own palace caught fire, and was totally destroyed, " by 
the judgment of God!" The affrighted viceroy, urged 
by a clamorous populace, made the 6( amende honorable 1 ' 
to the elders of a church so protected by heaven, and 
left it untouched. 

Without going into a detail of all the public buildings 
of Cagliari, it may be mentioned that the college of the 
Scuole Pie consists of forty brethren, who instruct three 
or four hundred boys in grammar, morals, and rhetoric. 
At the University there are three professors of rhetoric, 
four of morals, five of physic, two of surgery, four of 
philosophy, and one of eloquence. In the " Seminario'" 
there are generally [seventy-two scholars; and in the 
66 Collegio de' Nobili" there are forty-two nobles, exclu- 
sive of the sons of commoners, who are occasionally ad- 
mitted. The " Conservatorio dell' Orfanelle" was founded 
by Vasallo, a J esuit : it is situated in the castle, nearly 
opposite to the Elephant's tower, and supports thirty 
girls, who are usually of respectable families. They 
wear a musk-coloured dress, with a black silk hood and 
white apron. The property consists of houses, legacies, 
and gifts ; and when a will or codicil is registered, the 
notary is obliged, on pain of a fine of ten scudes, to ask 
the testator whether he intends bequeathing anything to 
this institution. The only public hospital, besides the 
well-conducted one belonging to the military branch, is 



OF SARDINIA. 



215 



the small establishment of Sant' Antonio, possessing 
about forty beds for both sexes, and regulated by the 
monks of St. John of God. The galley-slaves are well 
looked after in the several prisons of St. Pancras, the 
citadel, and the Darsena : they amount to about five 
hundred, and are employed daily on government labour, 
except on Sundays and festivals. 

The University boasts a museum, which was established 
by the reigning king, during his residence at Cagliari : 
it is already enriched with a very creditable collection of 
various branches of the natural history of the country ; 
with some valuable specimens of the weapons, armour, 
glass and figuline vases, and other objects of antiquity, 
discovered in various parts of the island. These are the 
more estimable because the architectural relics have suf- 
fered greatly, both from violence and time, and there 
are but few in the vicinity of the capital. The funereal 
temple of Fatilia Pomptilla is amongst the most inter- 
esting sepulchres around Aventrace, the site of Iolae. It 
consists of an artificial grotto, surmounted by a pedi- 
ment, the tympanum of which is ornamented with two 
snakes, and was formerly supported by four columns. 
The whole is cut in the solid rock, and the inside is 
nearly covered with inscriptions, indicating the husband's 
regret on his irreparable loss : along the entablature the 
following line appears in uncial characters : 

OEOOS MEMORIAE FAT I L I A E LF POMPTILIA E BENEOICTAE. M. S. P. 

Between this tomb and the city walls, are the remains 



216 



OF THE COASTS 



of a spacious amphitheatre, also excavated in the rock, 
and, as usual with such structures, commanding a fine 
and extensive view. There is little left but the stone seats, 
and part of the corridors ; nor am I aware of any sculp- 
ture having been found there, except the statues of two 
Roman senators, now over the upper gate of the citadel, 

And here the buzz of eager nations ran, 
In murmur'd pity, or loud-roar' d applause, 

And man was slaughter' d by his fellow man. 
And wherefore slaughter' d ? wherefore, but because 

Such were the bloody Circus' genial laws 
And the imperial pleasure. 

From such gloomy contemplation, it is pleasing to ' 
observe the humane influence of Christianity, by con- 
trasting the detestable taste, in ancient days, for gladia- 
torial spectacles, with the burst of indignation that was 
lately excited in England by the lion-fight at Warwick ; 
and to know, that even animals claim infinitely more 
compassion in our days, than human beings did in those 
of Imperial Rome. 

On the north side of the amphitheatre, is a Capuchin 
convent of fifty brethren, and a noviciate ; with an excel- 
lent dispensary for the distribution of medicines to the 
poor. It has a botanical garden, where, amongst other 
novelties, the intelligent old friar in charge, was making 
various attempts to bring the pine-apple to perfection, 
but hitherto without success. The spring of 1824 was 
unfavourable to several of his projects; and he com- 
plained that most of his best plants were " bruciate dal 
freddo." I left with him a quantity of seeds, brought 



OF SARDINIA. 



217 



from other countries, and recommended him to pay 
attention to the Japan medlar, which I endeavoured to 
get naturalized by carrying both seeds and plants from 
Malta; it being a valuable evergreen, of easy growth, 
and pleasing to the eye ; and the fruit not only nutri- 
tious, but making an excellent preserve. 

In one of the gardens belonging to this convent, there 
is an extensive excavation in the sandstone rock, into 
which many of the Cagliarese retired during the French 
bombardment ; near it is a Roman well, 154 feet deep, 
and containing the best water of the vicinity. Protection 
was also afforded, on the same occasion, in another 
cavern near the city walls, called the grotto of S. 
Andrea, with a small garden before it, resembling one 
of those in the Latomia? of Syracuse. Here the citizens 
resort in the summer to enjoy a comparatively cool 
atmosphere; and to amuse themselves at " boccie," a 
game played with four large wooden balls, and a small 
one as a mark to throw at, on flat walks levelled for the 
purpose. There are tables also, where peasants and 
soldiers divert themselves with cards, and in smoking, 
drinking, and singing ; affording from the extent of 
the cave, and the variety of costume, a lively picture of 
the retreat of banditti. In it is a spacious tank of pure 
water, which, from having received some peculiar bene- 
dictions, is highly esteemed ; whilst a temporary tavern 
adjacent to it, supplies the visiters with rosoglio, wine, 
and t: robba dolce," or coarse confectionary. 

The country on the outside of Villanova is an arid 



218 



OF THE COASTS 



plain, with straggling hedges of prickly pear bushes, 
and planted with a considerable number of date-trees. 
Here stands the large church of St. Lucifer, a much- 
esteemed patron of Cagliari, who died about the year 
371, after having, during a long life, greatly distin- 
guished himself in the Arian controversies. A little 
beyond this church, lies the range of the Bonaria hills, 
the cliffs of which present a formidable front against the 
weak side of the city. They consist of sandstone, ala- 
baster, and a very curious osseous breccia, something 
like that found at Gibraltar, the bones being small, and 
resembling those of the rat called " ghirro.'" This is 
the more singular, because the adjacent hills of Cagliari 
and St. Elias, though of similar height and form, consist 
of secondary limestone, with shells and calcareous crys- 
tals imbedded. This place received its name from the 
purity of the air ; and in 1320 the Spaniards commenced 
building a town upon it ; but, as they soon after ob- 
tained possession of Cagliari, the project was abandoned. 

The convent of Bonaria belongs to the order of 
Mercy, a fraternity instituted for the redemption of 
Christian slaves in Barbary ; and boasting of at least 
500 martyrs on its analogium. There are at present 
but thirty-four brethren ; and their means of subsistence 
are reduced almost to the produce of the adjacent 
grounds, and the alabaster quarries. They claim pre- 
cedence of the Jesuits, and show with exultation a large 
picture of their brother, Perez de Valentia, bestowing 
instruction on four young followers of Loyola. But 



OF SARDINIA. 



219 



the chief pride of the convent is its miraculous " sirau- 
lacro," the Virgin of Bonaria, whose efficacious solici- 
tude for sailors is acknowledged by hundreds of votive 
pictures, small pieces of cable, and models of vessels. 
It appears that in 1370, the sailors of a ship throwing 
the cargo overboard, in a storm, found themselves in- 
comprehensibly impelled to follow a chest that floated 
before them, till it grounded on the point below the 
convent. The efforts of an assembled multitude to move 
it were unavailing ; but to the appalling astonishment of 
all, two of the monks brought it on dry land with the 
utmost ease, and carrying it into their church, found it 
to contain a colossal figure of the blessed Mary with her 
infant. A discussion now arose as to which part of the 
church she should be established in, the principal altar 
being already occupied by the virgin u del miracolo," 
and it was at length determined, she should occupy a 
lateral chapel. This arrangement was made in the even- 
ing ; and the following morning, to the extreme surprise 
of the credulous crowd, the virgins had exchanged 
places, — the one from the mysterious chest being in the 
post of honour. To ascertain whether this substitution 
proceeded from divine authority, they were replaced as 
before, and a numerous congregation sat up to watch ; 
but again the idols became imperceptibly interchanged ; 
whereupon, to put the miracle beyond dispute, they were 
once more situated as at first, high mass celebrated, and 
a still greater number of people watched the event ; 
when, for the third time, the stranger compelled 



220 



OF THE COASTS 



the elder virgin to retire. Since the last victory, she 
has continued in an expensive shrine over the high 
altar : it is lighted by five silver lamps, and is profusely 
decorated with gold and silver chains, lace, coral and 
pearl necklaces, lockets, watches, and other " donaria." 
The altar has a massy front of embossed silver, that was 
removed at my request, to show the treasure it en- 
shrined — the identical old chest in which the Madonna 
drifted ashore : small chips of this are eagerly purchased 
by persons undertaking a voyage, as infallible preserva- 
tives against shipwreck. Near the great altar, in dimi- 
nished splendour, stands the defeated virgin " del mira- 
colo." She is thus named from the circumstance of a 
soldier who, having vainly implored her assistance while 
gambling, repaired to the church in a furious rage, and 
thrust his dagger into her throat. An awful roll of 
thunder now struck the disappointed wretch with horror, 
and at the instant a stream of blood gushed from the 
wound, which so paralyzed him, that he was unable to 
move, until people coming in, and seeing what had 
occurred, loaded him with chains. The marks of the 
wound, with indelible bloody stains on the neck, were 
shown me by the monks ! This virgin is supposed to 
have imparted to the cemetery of Bonaria, the power of 
preserving corses, and many of the bodies are exhibited 
in proof of the peculiar sanctity of the ground ; whereas 
it is the mere absorption of moisture by the carbonate 
of lime and the argil, that retards and interrupts the 
putrefactive process. 



OF SARDINIA. 



221 



Cagliari is backed by a large plain, called the Campi- 
dano, extending to the mountains of Budui on the east, 
to the plain of Sulcis on the west, and to Oristano on the 
north. This district consists principally of alluvial de- 
posits and tertiary formations ; it is partly cultivated ; 
but from want of inclosures, and the prevalence of in- 
temperie, more than a third part of it lies waste. It is 
studded, notwithstanding, with some of the most opulent 
villages in the island, several of which are named, after 
the ancient practice, by the quarters of an hour they are 
distant from the capital, as Quartu, Sestu, and Decimu. 
Amongst the principal features of the immediate, neigh- 
bourhood of the metropolis, are its lakes : the largest is 
at the head of the bay, from which it is separated by a 
narrow causeway of sand, called the ScafFa, through 
which there are seven channels of communication, crossed 
by as many bridges. It is six or seven miles long, by 
three or four broad; is navigated by flat -bottomed boats ; 
and affords a rich fishery of eels, mullets, and other 
fishes, rented for 800 scudes per annum, besides resigning 
a fourth of the produce to the king. This lake is also 
the resort of immense flocks of aquatic birds, especially 
ducks and coots, which are taken in hundreds, by means 
of heaps of alga called " lettus," and nets. The beau- 
tiful phcenicopteros ruber, or flamingo, the 66 mangone" 
of the Sards, is a frequenter of these waters, from Sep- 
tember to March ; as is also (but more rarely) the vo- 
racious pelicanus onocratalus ; and both probably come 
from the lakes of Bizerta and Tunis, where I have ob- 



OF THE COASTS 



served them in innumerable flocks. The river of Boa- 
arena, which enters at the north end of the lake, is formed 
by the junction of the Mannu (flowing from the foun- 
tains of the Fig, in the Sarcidanu,) with the Calarita 
(descending from the hills of Gerrei,) and the Sixerris, 
which comes from the mountains north of Domus-noas, 
and abounds in fine trout. In the lake, and near the 
Scaffa, is the flat islet of St. Simon, on which is an ora- 
tory, and a mansion belonging to the Marquis of Laconi, 
surrounded with vineyards and cultivated grounds, 
much infested with rabbits. At the annual festival of 
St. Simon and St. Jude, in October, that place assumes 
a lively aspect from the crowds which resort thither. 
The neighbourhood of this lake, together with those of 
Molentraxu and Marestainu, towards Quartu, would 
indicate a more pestiferous atmosphere than is known to 
exist at Cagliari, and accounts for the erroneous supposi- 
tion of Pausanias, that the air was rendered turbid and 
unhealthy by the crystallization of salt. Besides the fish 
and salt obtained from them, barilla flourishes in their 
vicinity; whilst amongst the spontaneous plants is the 
cynomorium coccineum, apparently the same as that so 
prized at Gozo, under the name of fungus Melitensis, 
and equally as bitter and styptic. 

Quitting the capital to pass to the eastward, the tra- 
veller arrives at the Lazzaretto, a respectable establish- 
ment, with a good mole for landing at, but with very 
shallow water off it : it is situated under Cape St. Elias, 
a rocky point, with white cliffs, about two hundred and 



OF SARDINIA. 



223 



fifty feet in height, that divides the bays of Cagliari and 
Quartu. On the west point of this cape, is a high build- 
ing within a battery, originally intended for a lighthouse, 
but used only as a signal tower, and known by the name 
of Torre di Cala-Mosca, from the little cove below. A 
stout redoubt with square bastions, on the summit of the 
hill, commands this cape, and the valley between it and 
Bonaria. To the west of the lighthouse, is a round 
rugged rock, about ten or twelve feet above the level of 
the sea, called Pietra Laida, around which there is good 
fishing with lines, wherefore the space between it and the 
beach of Perdusencini, under the cape, is often crowded 
with boats. The spring of St. Elias, called " su Puetu," 
is esteemed peculiarly light and aperient. 

The bay of Quartu is backed to the north and east by 
a fine sandy beach, with round towers of defence, at cer- 
tain distances from each other ; but the space between 
the sea and the villages consists almost entirely of lakes 
and salterns. Quartu is a large village, of upwards of 
5000 inhabitants, and has many respectable houses, 
though they are only constructed of sun-dried bricks. 
The atrium and walls of the churchyard are strangely 
decorated with sculls and thigh-bones — a revolting cus- 
tom, that prevails in many of the towns of Sardinia, with 
a seeming disrespect for the relics of the dead. 

The bay of Quartu is terminated on the east by the 
Torre de Foxi, near which a rivulet disembogues, that, 
rising in the heights of Sinia, irrigates a fertile valley, 
which produces some of the finest fruits of the island, 



OF THE COASTS 



especially figs and apresorgia grapes. Thence, towards 
Cape Carbonaro, the land trends by the base of the 
mountains of Budui, and is studded with towers on all 
the commanding points : in the bay, near that of St. 
Andrea, the Flumini falls into the sea, after watering 
some fine vineyards and orchards in its course from the 
hills of the Parte 011a, a corruption of the ancient Iola. 
The tower of St. Andrea is so called from a rural chapel 
of that Saint near it, whose statue some French soldiers 
of the expedition in 1793, foolishly and shamefully abused, 
and thereby greatly increased the animosity of the Sar- 
dinian peasants towards them. This part of the coast is 
without any nautical danger as far as Point Boi, a mo- 
derately high, bluff point; a little to the S. E. of which 
lie the three low rocks called Piscatelli. 

The tower of Carbonaro stands on a steep pinnacle, 
commanding the bays of Grugno and Campolungo ; the 
latter of which is considerably strengthened by a small 
castle called Fortezza Vecchia, irregularly built on a low 
point, inside the rock of St. Stefano, adjacent to which a 
streamlet flows from the Carbonaro hills into the sea ; 
and a lake divides these heights from those of Mount 
Moro. A quarter of a mile from the Cape lies the 
ancient Ficaria, an oblong isle, about eighty or ninety 
feet above the sea, and now called Cavoli, from the wild 
cabbages which it produces. It is surmounted by a 
ruinous turret bearing two guns, in which a garrison 
of five men is imprisoned for six months, and sometimes 
has not been relieved for upwards of twelve, though there 



OF SARDINIA. 



225 



is no water except that of a bad cistern, and a boat is not 
allowed to be kept. The Turks have more than once 
taken possession of this rock, for the purpose of conceal- 
ing their vessels in its cove, and thence sallying out on 
whatever prey might be passing. 

About five miles and a half to the north-eastward of 
Cavoli, and one and three-quarters from the shore, are 
the isles of Serpentaria, the Belerides Insula of Ptolemy; 
of which the southern, or largest, is probably the ancient 
Collodes. It is a long, flat mass of granite, with steep 
sides, and a tower on its highest part, wherein are 
immured six 66 torrari," under similar privations with 
those of Cavoli. Northward, towards Cape Ferrato, a 
distance of ten miles, lie the sandy beaches of Pira and 
Pirastu, with some little coves under Point Monte Ferru. 
This part of the coast skirts a range of gentle hills, 
between which and the woody ravines of Mount Budui, 
is the large tract of fertile, but neglected land, called 
" Pranu e Camisas," or Plain of the Shirts, for what 
reason no one knows. The soil is sandy, overrun with 
brushwood, and burrowed by rabbits : a small stream 
that runs across it, enters the sea below Port Pirastu. 
It may be observed, that all this coast is of very safe 
approach for ships; and the seven rugged peaks of 
Budui, called the Sette Fratelli, which are nearly 2,300 
feet above the sea, form an excellent mark for strangers. 
Near the summit of this mountain is the hermitage of 
S. Gregorio, inhabited by a reformed outlaw, who, with 
a professional predilection, conjectures that the name of 

Q 



226 



OF THE COASTS 



Sette Fratelli arose from a family of seven robbers, that 
infested these parts c< in tempu anticu." 

Cape Ferrato is a white rugged point, of seventy or 
eighty feet elevation, with a cove on each side, and 
having a guard-house on a remarkably peaked hill, about 
a mile to the westward. The southern cove is the best 
of the two ; but, though dignified with the name of Porto 
Pirastu, is an unsafe place. The coast then continues 
low, with a sandy beach, forming the pleasing valley of 
Xalinas ; and about two miles inland, are situated the 
church and hamlet of S. Priamu; whence a stream of the 
same name, that rises in the hills of Burcei, runs towards 
the sea, and terminates in a lake called Cala Strallus, 
from having a communication with the sea : here quan- 
tities of fine fish are taken, and sent to the market of 
Cagliari. Between the two low rocky points on which 
stand the towers of Xalinas and Corallo, the beautiful, 
and in winter rapid Flumendosa, enters the sea : it is 
the Sceprus of Ptolemy, which, rising in the Corno di 
Bue, flows through the Barbargia Seulo, then between 
the hills of Sarrabus and Parte Olla, and finally winds 
through the fertile grounds of Villa Putzu, S. Vito, and 
Muravera. The space between this river and the Gulf 
of Cagliari is nearly void of houses, and resorted to only 
by itinerant shepherds of nomadic habits, there being 
plenty of excellent pasturage for herds and flocks, and 
the woods abounding with deer and wild hogs. Count 
Roero di Monticelli, the late viceroy, was desirous of 
establishing a village near Carbonaro, and cultivating the 



OF SARDINIA. 



227 



adjacent grounds, but his design is very feebly seconded 
by the peasants. Vessels anchor in the summer season 
off the mouth of the Flumendosa, in a small bight a little 
to the southward of the Torre della Porta, where they 
receive on board oranges, lemons, cheese, pulse, grain, 
and wood, for Cagliari. 

Monte Rosso, with the tower of Arubil on its south- 
east peak, lies near the sea, between Corallo Point and 
Cape S. Lorenzo : to the northward of the last, is a 
beach of firm pebbles, where a rivulet from the hills of 
Perdus de Fogu falls into a lake, close to a rocky hill, 
near the tower of Chirra. Nearly two miles in a S. 20° 
E. direction off this point, which is called Murtas, is a 
cluster of rocks, collectively bearing the name of Chirra 
Islet, three-quarters of a mile in circuit, being elevated 
thirty or forty feet above the surface of the water, and 
bold close to on all sides. They lie in 39° 33' 38" north 
latitude, and 9° 41' 30" east longitude, with a magnetic 
variation of 18° 20' west. Several Sardinian antiquaries 
suppose that the city of Lesa, the Aquae Lesitanae of 
Ptolemy, stood in this vicinity, and that the insalubrious 
air of summer has since depopulated the whole district ; 
but D'Anville thinks that Lesa may be recognised in 
Ales, on the opposite side of the island. Vestiges are 
said to exist, though I was unable to discover any, and 
should think they are only to be seen by him who can 
" bend a keen eye on vacancy." 

Cape Palmeri is high, with a broad cliffy front to sea- 
ward. Between this headland and the rugged one called 

Q 2 



228 



OF THE COASTS 



Sferra Cavallo, (a little north of where the Arizzone per- 
colates through the beach,) stands the stout redoubt of 
St. John of Salara, on a low point, backed by the ex- 
tensive but unwholesome plain of Sarrabus : it has three 
guns mounted, and a garrison of five torrari. In 1812, 
Sebastian Melis defended this tower against a numerous 
Turkish force, who made a vigorous attack by sea and 
land : his garrison consisted of himself, his son, and a 
soldier ; and though the son was killed, and the two sur- 
vivors were severely wounded, he bravely held out till 
the neighbouring peasantry obliged the baffled foe to 
retreat. On a slope at the back of this plain lies the 
village of Tertenia, an unhealthy place of 1150 inhabit- 
ants, and noted for the numerous murders that have 
been committed in it. North of the tower, the rivulet 
of Marcusa waters the southern base of Cuadazzoni, and 
divides the districts of Chirri and Ogliastra. 

Cape Sferra Cavallo is the termination of the pictur- 
esque granite mountain of Cuadazzoni, and the shore, 
for about three miles and a half to the northward, con- 
tinues rocky, with peaked hills, covered with tolerably 
large trees. Rounding the cape to the northward, the 
boat-cove, called Cala Francese is seen, and near it the 
little stream of Pietra Rossa. To this succeeds a beach 
of sand and pebbles, as far as the tower of Bari, and 
thence again to Gemiliano tower, broken only about mid 
distance by a low rocky projection, called point Negra, 
not far from which is the mouth of a rivulet that rises 
near Gairo. The tower of Gemiliano is on a bluff head- 



OF SARDINIA. 



229 



land of nearly 300 feet elevation ; and between it and 
Cape Bellavista, a small bay is formed, called Port 
Sacurro, where small craft lie in northerly winds : and 
here the shallow river of Tortoli disembogues itself, which 
flows from the hills of Arzana, and passes to the south- 
ward of the town from whence it derives its name. 

Capes Bellavista and Monte Santo are the extremes 
of the gulf of Tortoli, where shipping can procure ex- 
cellent water at a lake in the N.W. part, when westerly 
winds are blowing ; but all others cause too much surf. 
Wood, wine, and provisions may be had in abundance ; 
and it is only the badness of the anchorage, that has 
prevented its being a favourite resort in the healthy 
season. In the middle of the bay, and about three- 
quarters of a mile from the beach, are the two high islets 
of Ogliastra, with several rocks around them, nearly on 
a wash; but having nine fathoms water within a cable's 
length. 

Bellavista is of granitic porphyry, and moderately 
elevated, with a watch tower on its summit ; while Monte 
Santo is a rugged promontory upwards of 2400 feet 
high, sloping towards the sea, but yet terminating in 
abrupt cliffs ; amongst which is an extensive cave, fanci- 
fully decorated with enormous milk-white stalactites. The 
whole space intervening between Monte Santo and Cua- 
dazzoni, from the sea-shore to the mountains of Ogliastra, 
is a charming plain, separated from the rest of Sardinia, 
by chains of mountains, forming a most pleasing prospect 
from its extent, and its cultivation ; for notwithstanding 



230 OF THE COASTS 

the insalubrity of the atmosphere, it is studded with 
some of the best villages in the island. Tortoli, (a name 
traditionally asserted to be derived from Portus Ilii, as 
being the place where the Trojans landed,) the " capo- 
luogo," or seat of magistracy, is readily distinguished 
from the others by the cupola of its large cathedral 
church : it contains about 1500 inhabitants, and is the 
residence of a bishop ; the present dignitary is a capuchin 
monk, a fine-looking man, wearing the long beard of his 
order, with his mitre. 

The higher grounds of Ogliastra afford good pasturage 
to numerous flocks and herds ; the forests of oak supply 
acorns for hogs ; while the wild olive, as the name im- 
ports, is spread all over the hills. The produce of the 
plain consists of cheese, wheat, grano Turco or Indian 
corn, tobacco, oranges, citrons, cherries, figs, and ex- 
cellent red wine, which last is made in considerable quan- 
tity, and the demand for it is on the increase. A rivulet 
intersects the beach near the tower of Arabat, forming a 
communication with a large lake, which was, perhaps, the 
Portus Supicius of the tables of Ptolemy, placed to the 
southward of the Sceprus in a Latin edition of 1552, but 
marked to the northward of it, in an Italian one, printed 
at Venice* in 1561 : both these copies are in my possession, 
and give me reason to suppose the interchange of sites 
to be a correction, and not an error. From this lake, 
which is navigable for boats in winter, the neighbouring 
villages of Girasol and Lozzarai procure excellent fish ; 
and the large cockles fattened on its borders are esteemed 



OF SARDINIA. 



231 



the best in the island. Near the tower of Novaresa, 
another stream, called the Trieri, rising in some romantic 
dells in Mount Ursulei, disembogues, and forms a water- 
ing place for shipping. 

Between Monte Santo and Cape Comino, a distance 
of twenty miles, is the bight of Orosei, entirely without 
hidden rocks and shoals ; but from Monte Santo, a dan- 
gerous range of perpendicular cliffs of considerable ele- 
vation, extends about eleven miles, among the crags of 
which are numbers of stunted timber and wild olive trees. 
This iron-bound tract is indented at the base by two 
ravines, forming the coves called Cala Sizini, and Cala 
di Luna, both with pebbly beaches, where boats may lie 
in fine weather, or in heavy westerly gales. They should 
not be resorted to, however, except in cases of need : for 
the natives of Dorgali and Baunei are amongst the most 
ferocious and treacherous people in the island; and a 
boats' crew would be liable to be destroyed, merely by 
their flinging stones from the heights above. My friend 
La Marmora was robbed, and brutally ill-treated, by a 
party of these ruffians; and it was by accidental mercy on 
their part, as rare as unexpected, that he was not mur- 
dered, having had the muzzle of an assassin's gun 
actually thrust into his ear. 

After passing the cliffs of Monte Santo, the shores to 
the N.N.E. became low, sandy, and uncultivated, as far 
as Orosei. This town is situated near the mouth of a 
river, navigable for boats, for about a mile and a quarter 
inland, whence some geographers imagine it to be the 



A 



OF THE COASTS 



Portus Luquidonis of the Itinerary; and that thence 
originates the epithet of Logudoro, now applied to this 
district. The river is the Caedris of Ptolemy, (whence 
some have absurdly derived the name of the island, 
through the intermediate modification of Cedregna,) and 
like most others in Sardinia at present, though some- 
times mentioned as the Cedrino, may be said to have no 
peculiar name, but successively takes that of every town 
it runs near. It rises in the Barbargia, the principal 
springs being in the mountains of Orgosolo, Mamojada, 
and Nuoro, whence it flows through beautiful scenery 
to the sea, forming a lake at its mouth two miles and a 
half long, and nearly one broad, which has often served 
as a barrier against the landing of corsairs. The banks 
of this stream are much frequented by tortoises ; and the 
merope apiaster, or bee-eater, is seen here in fine plumage. 
A branch of the Cedrino flows from a grand rocky 
cavern at Calagoni, between the hills of Dorgali and 
Oliena ; it is an abundant and impetuous stream from 
the very source, on which account the peasants cannot 
be persuaded but that it has a communication with the 
sea, although its waters are perfectly fresh. Orosei is in 
a most lovely situation, surrounded by fertile plains, which 
afford an abundance of cattle, grain, cheese, honey, fruits, 
and the white wine called " guernaccia. 11 Its oranges, 
citrons, melons, figs, and fruits of every description, are 
remarkable for their superior qualities ; but notwith- 
standing such an alluring situation in a second Hespe- 
rides, these smiling fields may be likened to a garden 



OF SARDINIA. 



233 



blooming on a sepulchre ; for they are poisoned with so 
deadly an atmosphere, that it is fatal to a stranger 
during several months of the year, nor do the inhabitants 
of Orosei amount to more than 1500 souls. 

From Punta Nera, the extreme of the Orosei beach, 
the coast trends about N. by E. past the coves of Lipa- 
rota and Cinepra, to the hilly headland of Cape Comino, 
a part readily distinguished from the offing by Monte 
Albo, a tabled eminence about 2317 feet high, a little 
inland of it. This remarkable object is a mass of com- 
pact limestone, with very white cliffs to the N.E., and 
stands isolated in the range of granite mountains, on 
whose base it rests. In the fine plain at its foot, on a 
mound of micaceous schistus, is situated the village of 
Siniscola, possessing a handsome church, and a popu- 
lation of 2400 souls ; thought by some to be the Feronia 
of Ptolemy. A little wine is produced, but none for 
export, though there is abundance of grain, fruit, honey, 
and cheese. The bay of Siniscola is formed by Cape 
Comino and the towered point of Santa Lucia, with a 
streamlet from Mount Albo running into it : as it is en- 
tirely open to the N.E. winds, it is unsafe during gales 
from that quarter; but the numbers of Genoese and 
Neapolitan feluccas that repair thither for freights have 
rendered the town wealthy and thriving, in spite of 
its unhealthiness. The traditions of the country still 
resound the praises of Puliga of Tortoli, who, with only 
ten followers, routed a host of Moors that had landed in 
this bay, and after an incursion into the country, were 
returning with the captives and booty to their gallies. 



234 



OF THE COASTS 



From Cape Comino to the gradually sloping point of 
Coda-Cavallo, the coast trends away to the N.N.W. 
without any peculiarity but the islet of Pedranri, and the 
little port of Sabatino, wherein is a chapel much respected 
by the coasting sailors. The only town between Sinis- 
cola and Terranova is Posada, a heap of granite houses, 
on the summit of a rocky and steep hill, with but 440 
inhabitants, who mostly appear as hard and as gloomy 
as their dwellings. This singularly situated town was 
once the Capoluogo, and is still surrounded by the an- 
tique walls of its former consequence, and has a high 
square tower on a crag above them. A river that rises 
in the mountains of Campo Peddis, flows by the foot of 
the rock ; and a beautiful plain extends thence towards 
Siniscola, which being tolerably cultivated, yields abund- 
ance of grain, grapes, and pulse, and a considerable 
quantity of honey and wax is also collected. From 
Posada to Terranova is a dreary blank, without other 
inhabitants than the shepherds who drive their flocks 
thither, for the scanty pasturage which it affords. 

Between the capes of Coda Cavallo and Figari is the 
gulf of Terranova, about ten miles across, studded with 
the isles of Tavolara, Molara, Tauladetto, and Figarello, 
with various smaller ones ; and possessing, in its several 
fine anchorages, natural facilities for extensive naval and 
commercial operations. Tauladetto, the outer isle, is a 
small conical red rock, quite bare of vegetation, about 
sixty or seventy feet high ; divided from Molara by a 
channel more than two miles wide, and twenty fathoms 



OF SARDINIA. 



235 



in depth, with a small rock nearly mid-channel. Molara, 
by some called Boscuda, is a granite rock covered with 
brushwood, and since the British attack on Algiers, has 
been inhabited by a few Sards : it was the Buccina of 
antiquity, and much prized for the purple dye procured 
from its shell-fish. Between Molara and Cape Ceraso 
are some tolerable anchorages, of which the best is Porto 
San Paolo, a place easily entered by the three several 
channels of Tavolara, Molara, and the main. Care must 
be taken, however, in rounding Cape Ceraso, on account 
of a dangerous shelf of rocks ; for during our survey, a 
brig struck on them with a free wind, and sunk so in- 
stantly, that had not two of our boats been near, and 
afforded the most prompt assistance in rescuing the crew 
and passengers from off the topsail yards, every person 
must have been drowned. 

Tavolara, the ancient Hermsea, the principal of these 
islands, presents at the first glance only a series of inac- 
cessible cliffs. The N.E. point is high and conical, with 
a cove called " Spalmador di fuori, 1 ' just inside of it; in 
this cove two or three vessels may lie in westerly winds, 
in five fathoms mud bottom, and a little water may be 
procured in the sandy isthmus at its head, by digging 
pits. The position of the centre of this beach is 40° 
53' 54" of north latitude, and 9° 43' 36" east longitude. 
The eastern point is singular, from a sharp pinnacle ter- 
minating a serrated ridge, and a large perforation near it, 
called the 6£ manaco," or handle. The S. W. part of this 
islet forms a semicircular bay, called 66 Spalmador di 



OF THE COASTS 



terra," with a sandy beach, where vessels also anchor. 
The whole is a mass of compact limestone, similar to that 
of Monte Albo, and nearly 1500 feet high. It presents 
a rich treat to the botanist in its numberless curious 
plants, amongst which the 64 avena selvatica," or animated 
oat, is alike remarkable for its delicacy and beauty. 
Tavolara, as its catachretical name expresses, is a flat 
tabled mountain, but yet with such broad sweeps and 
shelving precipices as to constitute grand features ; while 
its general effect is heightened by the woody clefts and 
ravines which diversify and adorn it, and afford compa- 
rative security to the wild goats. A lambent flame, 
called by the natives " earbunculo," is occasionally seen 
on the north side of the island, and is said to have been 
known only from the time of St. Pontianus, the high 
pontiff, who died there in exile. It appears to be an 
ignition of hydrogen gas similar to the flame of Yanar, 
so well described by my friend Captain Beaufort, in his 
excellent account of Karamania; a description which 
restored the chimaera of the ancients to the very spot 
they had invariably assigned it. The difference is, that 
the Sardinian is but casual in its appearance, while the 
other seems to have been constant for upwards of twenty 
centuries. 

The harbour of Terranova, the Olbianus portus of 
Ptolemy, is a fine expanse of water, with sufficient depth 
for a powerful navy to ride in perfect security ; but its 
entrance was choked up in the wars between the Pisans 
and Genoese, and though re-opening the channel might 



OF SARDINIA. 



237 



better the condition of all the N.E. portion of Sardinia, 
it has hitherto been neglected. The bar across the en- 
trance runs from the northern shore to a small islet on 
the southern, and is, in every part, impassable for boats, 
wherefore the only channel is between this islet and the 
main. From the sea, Terranova is marked by its solitary 
belfry, has a mean aspect, and the whole country, though 
beautifully diversified with hill and dale, looks dreary 
and deserted. On passing the line of rocks that stretches 
into the middle of the port, like a vast mole, and landing 
on a shallow beach, the disagreeable impression is con- 
firmed by the unpaved streets and lanes teeming with 
filth of every nature ; whilst the low gloomy houses of 
red granite, with their sooty interiors, seem to stamp it 
as the abode of infamy and misery. The best building 
is the church of St. Simplicius, a Pisan edifice outside 
the town, just below which is a constant supply of excel- 
lent water. The inhabitants are rather tall, strong, 
active, and well proportioned; they have, in general, 
long faces, dark heavy eye-brows, and small black eyes. 
They rarely look a person directly in the face, but view 
him askance ; they never fail to shake hands when they 
meet, yet during the ceremony each looks over his left 
shoulder, and they remain with their faces directed to 
opposite parts, during the whole conversation. Nor is 
any town in Europe disgraced by a more bloodthirsty set 
of miscreants ; the life of a fellow-creature is considered 
so trifling an object, that on becoming in any degree 
burthensome, he is dispatched without ceremony or com- 



238 



OF THE COASTS 



nient. As these assertions would bear the appearance of 
invective rather than observation, I will add an anecdote 
or two, of outrages committed by members of the in- 
famous family of Putzu. Pietro, the elder brother, was 
actually holding the situation of British vice-consul when 
I visited Terranova, though, I am happy to add, they 
have since met with at least part of the punishment they 
long deserved. Ten years ago, this knot of murderers 
defied the power of government, but becoming disunited 
among themselves, they lost ground, and are now so 
broken, as to be somewhat more amenable to the laws. 

Captain Pasquale Altieri anchored his vessel, bearing 
the British flag, in the gulf of Terranova, and finding 
that one of his passengers had decamped in the night 
with some valuable goods, waited on Pietro Putzu, the 
British consul, to solicit redress. Putzu begged Altieri 
to give himself no further trouble on the subject, for as 
he was well acquainted with the various roads, he would 
himself go on the pursuit. He accordingly sallied out 
on horseback, accompanied by a huge and fierce mastiff, 
overtook the unfortunate wretch whom he was in quest 
of, and with his dog worried and finally murdered him. 
He then secreted the stolen property, and returned to 
Terranova, pretending his search had been fruitless. 

Leonardo, the brother of the " Consul," having, with- 
out any known provocation, conceived an enmity against 
a man, who was not only his friend, but his " compare" 
also, waylaid him in a by-road, and shot him, as he rode 
past with his wife. The victim fell from his horse, and 



OF SARDINIA. 



239 



the afflicted woman on 'her knees endeavoured to staunch 
the blood ; but the villain rushed on them, and drawing 
forth a long knife, stabbed the dying man in various 
places ; brutally remarking to the woman, that a husband 
was easily replaced. The horrid scene concluded by the 
assassin drawing the knife, yet reeking with the blood of 
his friend, between his lips, previous to returning it into 
the sheath ; he then walked off, leaving the poor widow 
insensible from terror and affliction. This ruffian, after 
having committed numerous other outrages, is now only 
in exile fat Maddalena, within sight of the scenes of his 
guilt. When Mr. Craig questioned him respecting the 
murder of his " compare," he very freely told the whole 
story, and added that he never saw so furious a dying 
man in his life, for he kicked with such violence while 
being stabbed, as to make a large hole in the ground ! 

The occurrence that ended the career of this detestable 
family, exhibited a singular exertion of cunning and 
ferocity. Andrea Scaccato, a " capo pastore," possessed 
of considerable property, had been marked as an object 
of resentment by Leonardo, Pietro, and G. M. Putzu, 
and vain was every effort on his part to avert his doom. 
To conciliate such powerful and implacable enemies, he 
patiently suffered the grossest insults, had married one of 
his sons into the Putzu family, and had become 66 com- 
pare 1 ' to the very wretch who compassed his murder. 
As Scaccato had two sons, line-spirited youths, residing 
with him, and was moreover popular in the district, it 
was deemed imprudent to attempt assassination by the 



OF THE COASTS 



usual ambush system, since retaliation might be feared ; 
it was therefore determined upon, to massacre the whole 
family at a blow. G. M. Putzu being captain of the 
provincial militia, it was planned that under pretence of 
having received secret orders from government, to arrest 
the Scaccatos, he should select the most hardened of 
his dependants, together with some carabinieri. On 
obtaining admittance into the dwelling, they were not 
only to destroy the whole of its inmates, but also the 
" brigadiere," or commanding officer of the soldiers, 
which would serve as a proof that Scaccato had resisted ; 
as well as enable the Putzus to assert without fear of 
contradiction, that he had called them out, instead of 
their having summoned him. On the fatal night the 
assassins presented themselves at the house, and demanded 
admission in the king's name, a desire instantly com- 
plied with by the master, though against the opinion of 
his wife, who suspected danger. On his opening the 
door, poor Scaccato was shot dead, and a musket was 
discharged at one of the sons, the ball from which passed 
through his heart and into the breast of his wife, who 
was beside him. Another son, on receiving the first shot, 
fell on his knees, and addressing himself to G. M. Putzu, 
piteously exclaimed, " Oh ! godfather, spare me only till 
I confess and make my peace with God." The brute 
tauntingly replied, that this was not a time to prate 
about confession, and drawing out his pistol, shot the un- 
happy youth through the head. As the rest of the 
family had escaped during the scuffle, nothing remained 



OF SARDINIA. 



241 



but to fire a general discharge at the place where they 
had posted the " brigadiere." He, however, apprehen- 
sive of treachery, had previously retired ; and the Putzus 
were not a little astonished when, on remounting their 
horses, they discovered him to be one of the party. 
Meantime, Dame Scaccato, on recognising the voice of 
L. Putzu, had immediately conjectured the purpose of 
the visit, and with instinctive presence of mind, caught 
up her youngest boy, and hid him beneath a tub ; then 
with efforts, described as preternatural, forced a passage 
out, though dreadfully wounded in the attempt. Two 
or three of the assassins pursued her, but the darkness 
of the night, and the intricacy of the thickets, were the 
means of saving a life that proved most important ; since 
she has succeeded in crushing her blood-stained enemies, 
by extraordinary personal exertions, and the powerful 
assistance afforded her by the following fortuitous inci- 
dent. The very day previous to the assassination, Scac- 
cato took his wife to a copse behind the house, and 
throwing aside some grassy clods, exposed a jar contain- 
ing about 4000 scudi in gold : (i These, 1 '' said he, " are 
the savings of a life of unremitted industry, which I have 
carefully hoarded against the hour of need, and have 
now divulged the secret, lest some accident should sud- 
denly cut me off, and leave you in ignorance of such a 
resource."" With this supply of money, and the prompt 
interference of several friends, Dame Scaccato pursued 
her opponents with such vigour, that G. M. Putzu was 
executed at Sassari, in 1823 ; Leonardo and Pietro were 

R 



242 



OF THE COASTS 



exiled to Maddalena, and five others fled to the moun- 
tains, under sentence of death. After thus accomplish- 
ing the exposure and fall of the Putzus, the meritorious 
and spirited widow has retired into a convent, determined 
to pass the remainder of her life in devotion*. 

But, I return to Terranova : — the port is nearly sur- 
rounded by a vast plain, of great capability of culture, 
watered by many streams ; of which the principal, called 
Padroggianu, runs southward from the hills, and enters 
the harbour by several mouths, forming a number of 
marshy islets, the shores of which abound with fine 
cockles. On a hill S.W. of the town, is the castle of 
Pedroso, one of the fifty mentioned by Fara, as existing 
in the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, on the most 
commanding isolated peaks of Sardinia. To the N. is 
Monte Pino, about 1900 feet high, thus named from its 
pine-trees, being almost the only spot in the island where 
they are met with. There are many vestiges of the 
ancient Olbia, a name derived, I presume, rather from 
the richness of the soil, than from the happiness of the 
natives ; the " iutemperie" probably being as fatal in the 
days of Cicero's brother, as at present, though the land 
may have been under a better system of cultivation. 
Olbia was repaired during the middle ages, and had a 
temporary prosperity under the name of Phausania, 
when the episcopal see was re-established by order of 

* It is with feelings of surprise and regret I have heard, while 
this sheet was in the press, that both Leonardo and Pietro Putzu 
have received their pardon, and are actually at Terranova ! 



OF SARDINIA. 



%¥6 



Gregory the Great. Amphorae, medals, and other arti- 
cles of antiquity are occasionally discovered ; and I pro- 
cured a very handsome marble sarcophagus, that had 
been recently discovered by excavation. In 1710, Terra- 
nova was occupied by a detachment from the army com- 
manded by the Duke of Tursis; but both the troops, and 
the four settees that brought them from Corsica, were 
captured by Admiral Norris and General Brown, in the 
month of June, of the same year. 

Owing to the defects of Terranova, small coasters often 
anchor, with land-winds, at the islet in Porto Vitello, a 
deep cove between Cape Ceraso and the bar ; but large 
ships usually bring up in twelve or fourteen fathoms, at 
TAranci, a bay under Cape Figari, the Columbarium of 
Ptolemy. Here vessels lie nearly landlocked, Tavolara 
streching across the bay to the southward, so tabled and 
steep, as to resemble a huge wall. Figari is a bold head- 
land, terminating to seaward, in steep cliffs, but gradually 
sloping towards an isthmus inland. On its south side is 
a little port called Cala Moresca, whither boats resort to 
burn lime ; this spot was thus named, because the Bar- 
bary rovers used it as a place of concealment, where they 
could also avail themselves of an adjacent natural tank of 
fresh water. Off this cove lies the isle of Figarello, high 
and conical, abounding in wild olives, cabbages, pease, 
myrtle, juniper, and other spontaneous productions: its 
east and south shores have very deep water, but on the 
north it is joined to Figari by a rocky spit. 

Northward of Figari, a deep bay reaches to Cape 

R 2 



244 



OF THE COASTS 



Libano, with several bare islets off its northern shore, of 
which Mortorio and Soffi are the principal : the whole 
group is collectively called " i Mortorii, 1 ' and is said to 
have derived this name from the dreadful carnage suf- 
fered by the Pisans, in a battle with the Genoese, that 
took place close to them. At the bottom of the bay, to 
the S.W.j is the port of Congianus, in shape resembling 
that of Terranova, but of less dimensions, and very 
shallow after entering the mouth. Between it and point 
Canisone, to the eastward, is a deep bight, called the 
Marinella, affording excellent anchorage in all but N.E. 
winds. Beyond the Mortorii islets are the rocks of 
Libani, and rather more than a mile distant from them is 
the little harbour of Porto Cervo, in which a ship may 
anchor in seven or eight fathoms : it must be noted that 
about half a mile to the N.E. of the entrance, there is a 
rocky shoal, with only thirteen feet water on it. 

The general coast line, from Figari to Longo-Sardo is 
formed by a succession of granite mountains, of moderate 
height, with rugged summits, forming grotesque resem- 
blances to edifices. This chain is partially sprinkled 
with forests of holm oaks, yews, junipers, and wild olives ; 
intermixed with a thick-set underwood of myrtle, cistus, 
arbutus, and other shrubs ; in which are great numbers 
of mufflons, deer, and wild hogs ; and it also affords in- 
different pasturage to large flocks of sheep and goats. 
There are very few dwellings except huts, and scarcely 
even the usual coast-towers of defence ; for it is inhabited 
only by Nomadic shepherds and banditti, the latter of 



OF SARDINIA. 



'whom generally find security in these fastnesses, from the 
weak and venal arm of Gallura justice. These moun- 
tains are intersected by the fine, well- watered, and exten- 
sive, though uncultivated, plains of Liscia, Arsaquena, 
and Congianus ; the flocks and herds of which are tended 
by a few straggling peasants, who quit the towns of 
Luras and Tempio, after the feast of All Souls, and 
remain till the end of June ; when, to avoid the intemperie, 
they repair to their habitations. During this time they 
are occupied with their dairies, and the making of coarse 
cheese; each peasant also cultivates a small piece of 
ground for wheat and barley, merely sufficient for the 
support of his family. 

Directly off this part of the coast lie the Intermediate 
Islands, once the Insulae Fossae, so termed from the 
Fossa Fretum, as the strait of Bonifacio was called ; and 
in more ancient times, the Taphros, or trench, of the 
Greeks, because like a ditch dividing Sardinia and Cor- 
sica. This group is composed entirely of red granite, 
forming, with the main, several secure harbours, capable 
of containing fleets, and affording ingress and egress with 
any winds; — advantages which were highly estimated by 
the heroic and immortal Nelson. So little, however, was 
this admirable naval station known in the middle of the 
last century, that it was a question whether the islands 
belonged to Sardinia or to Corsica, till some engineers 
were despatched, with the consent of the French court, 
to draw a visual line from east to west, equidistant 
between point Lo Sprono on the latter, and point Falcone 



246 



OF THE COASTS 



on the former ; it being agreed, that all north of this 
line should belong to Corsica, and all south of it should 
remain to Sardinia. These Intermediate isles consist of 
Maddalena, Caprera, Santo Stefano, Santa Maria, Bu- 
delli, Razzoli, La Presa, Spargi, Spargiotto, Giardinelli, 
and Biscie: with the Barettini, Monaci, Cappuccini, 
Porco, and Paganetto rocks. Excepting Maddalena, 
they may be said to be nearly uninhabited, there being 
but a few temporary herdsmen with their cattle; and 
they are alternately cultivated for three years by people 
from the town, and grazed the three years next following 
by the herdsmen. 

About seventy years ago, a village was founded at 
Maddalena, the Insula Phintonis of the ancients, and a 
stout fort was erected for its defence. Some fugitive 
Corsican families were amongst the first settlers ; and, 
from its salubrity and eligibility for Italian traffic, it has 
become a tolerable town of upwards of 1600 inhabitants. 
The natives are accounted a lively people, and brave 
sailors; but as they have an utter aversion to work, they 
are very poor, living mostly on bread and water; while 
they quietly witness the busy industry of the Neapolitans 
in fishing in their waters, and carrying away whole 
cargoes of their lobsters. The abundance of nacres in 
the quiet bays of Poglio, Liscia, Puzzo, and Arsequena, 
would offer an easy branch of trade, by the manufacture 
of its filaments ; but there is only one woman who will 
take the trouble to make gloves of them ; nor will either 
male or female act as servants. Mr. Craig has benefited 



OF SARDINIA. 



247 



the people much during his residence there, by prevailing 
on some of the most active, to collect the lichens and rock 
mosses of the neighbouring; mountains, of which he an- 
nually sends a cargo to Scotland; and the money he 
thereby expends amongst them, is of acknowledged utility. 
The town is tolerably clean, but straggling ; has a capital 
anchorage before it, and a cove for boats, called Cala 
Gavetu. Lord Nelson, to whom the islanders were 
warmly attached, promised to build a church for them. 
Tins, we may conclude, was prevented only by his 
lamented death, for he had already sent a most accept- 
able present, of two massy silver candlesticks, and a 
crucifix of silver with a gold Saviour, of very elegant 
workmanship. The pedestal of each has three faces, on 
one of which are enchased the arms of Nelson, on the 
second those of Bronte, and on the third this inscription : 

Vice Comes 

Nelson Nili 
Dux Brontis Ecc e . 
S te , Magdal e . Ins e . 

S te . Magdale 
D. D. D. 

This island is about eleven miles in circuit, and has five 
forts for its defence, of which the principal is called La 
Guardia Vecchia. It stands on an elevation of upwards 
of six hundred feet, and near the ruins of a former 
village; it has eight guns on a platform, and one com- 
manding it, on the telegraph tower. Both this and fort 
Camiggio, to the east of the town, are furnished with 
melancholy dungeon-prisons for state delinquents, evi- 



248 



OF THE COASTS 



dently constructed with such cruel motives, that they 
cannot even be inspected without emotions of horror. 
The island is cultivated whereVer it will possibly allow of 
it, but nothing can exceed the sterility of its northern 
rocky shores. Vegetables and fruit are obtained, not 
from Sardinia, as might naturally be expected, but from 
Corsica ; and the fine lettuces of Bonifaccio are an article 
of great consumption. Owing to their poverty and idle- 
ness, the people seldom visit each other, except at festi- 
vals ; but still, in passing their houses, the sound of the 
guitar may always be heard, and want seems to make 
but little impression on their animal spirits. Crime is 
not uncommon ; and the means of redress are difficult : 
while the judge, having but seventy-five dollars per 
annum, cannot be said to be above the influence of 
Plutus. The situation is exceedingly healthy ; and the 
wild pease that grow about the hills offer a spontaneous 
addition to the minestra. 

Though it is not my intention, in this place, to give 
technical directions for sailing through the channels of 
these islands, I must observe that navigators will find 
good shelter in any of their spacious bays. The berth 
to be preferred, is at the Mezzo Schifo, S.W. of the 
town, as it is near the Pararau, and therefore good for 
watering, while wood may be cut in the immediate 
vicinity. Maddalena has rocky shores, and except the 
principal harbour, has only beaches for boats ; the bay 
on the N.W. side is the largest, and encloses three sandy 
coves in it. Between Maddalena and Caprera, is the 



OF SARDINIA. 



249 



low islet of Giardinelli, which with its rocks and shelves 
nearly blocks up the intervening passages. Caprera is a 
high and irregular isle to the S.E. of Maddalena, quite 
barren on its north and east faces ; towards its centre is 
a peak called Tagiolona, upwards of 750 feet in height, 
near which is a spring of pure water. Caprera has 
several coves on its coasts, the principal of which is Port 
Palma, where the Neapolitan fishermen take great num- 
bers of fine cray-fish, for the supply of the Italian 
markets. The low isle of Biscie forms the outer point of 
the eastern channel, and is remarkable for the acontias, 
or little black snake, whence it derives its name. It 
should be observed that this is the worst entrance to the 
anchorage, for strangers, as there are three hidden dan- 
gers in the fairway, which Lord Nelson's squadron 
escaped, almost miraculously, when beating through it at 
dusk in a gale of wind ; for, as Vice- Admiral Sir Richard 
Keats informed me, they were afterwards detected by 
the Excellent, of seventy-four guns, striking in a light 
breeze. Santo Stefano is a high island to the south of 
Maddalena, and has a small harbour defended by fort 
St. George, with a garrison of three or four soldiers, the 
taking of which in 1793, was the incident in the military 
career of Napoleon related in the first chapter. To the 
west of Maddalena lies Spargi, also high and covered 
with brushwood : it has two sandy bays, and a spring of 
excellent water near the Cala Corsale. Off it lies Spar- 
giotto, a rugged barren islet, with smaller rocks off its 
N.W. extremity, called Spargiottelli. The northern- 



250 



OF THE COASTS 



most of the Intermediate Isles, consists of a group of a 
more moderate height, called Budelli, Razzoli, Santa 
Maria, and La Presa ; whilst between them and Madda- 
lena are the bare tabled rocks of Barettini, the channels 
amongst which are mostly clear of hidden danger. 

In sailing about and amongst these islands, attention 
must be paid to the " rafficas," or violent squalls off the 
hills ; and it is esteemed a sign of bad weather when 
Corsica cannot be seen; or, as the natives say, " when it 
has got its cap on." Besides the island peaks and points, 
two remarkable objects enable seamen to take up a proper 
anchorage : the one is a square, inclined rock, called 
the pedestal, on Mount Mola, over Porto Cervo, which 
may be readily seen from the southern reaches ; the other 
is the figure of a bear, formed by a natural mass of 
granite, on a rugged point between the Pararau and Sa- 
linas, which is therefore named Punta dell' Urso. The 
mean of our operations established the telegraph tower of 
the Guardia Vecchia, in latitude 41° 13' 27" N., and lon- 
gitude 9° 23' 42" E. ; the magnetic variation being 
17° 56' 30" W. 

The valley of Arsaquena is marshy towards the har- 
bour : a little inland, there is a Nuraghe, and vestiges of 
the town whence the name is derived, but scarcely a 
habitation is now to be seen. Having occasion to go to 
Tempio, which, though upwards of twenty-five miles 
distant, was the nearest town to our anchorage ; I landed 
at the beach bounding the plain of Liscia, and was 
forcibly struck with the solitary aspect of the scene. 



OF SARDINIA. 



251 



These fine grounds are watered by a meandering stream, 
which, though nearly dry in August, is never actually so: 
it contains trout, perch, and eels, and its shallow parts 
swarm with tortoises. In their respective seasons there 
is also an abundance of partridges, quails, doves, becca- 
fichi, and many other birds; especially the beautiful 
" apiolu," or bee-eater, which works its nest in hori- 
zontal galleries, deep sunk into the banks of the river. 
A few detached " stazzus," or farm-houses, are scat- 
tered about the higher grounds ; but from Liscia to 
Tempio, I saw very few dwellings, and scarcely any 
people, except some shepherds. The intervening space 
was either a waste or a wood : at one time we passed 
through a succession of fine oak, beech, alder, and cork 
trees, and then reached commons, on which wild pears 
and olives grew in extraordinary luxuriance. In the 
mid-distance, near Luogu Santu, are some enormous 
masses of granite that have fallen from the lofty summits 
of the hills, through the forest, to the bottom of the 
ravine, carrying everything before them with destructive 
fury. Several of these rocks, from their dimensions and 
specific gravity, must be upwards of five or six thousand 
tons in weight ! 

Approaching Tempio, we arrived at a fine Nuraghe, 
through a narrow and difficult pass, where assassins and 
robbers were wont to await their victims; on this spot, 
only three months before, a lieutenant, a serjeant, and a 
private of the Carabineers had been killed, and two or 
three wounded. To the west of it stands Aggius, a vil- 



252 



OF THE COASTS 



lage seated just under the crags of an amphitheatre of 
rocky mountains, of such toilsome access as to give rise 
to its present name, derived from Aigeios, as fit only for 
goats. Until within a year or two, the natives were all 
banditti ; but both themselves and their neighbours have 
been so chastised, and subdued in the recent conflicts 
with the Carabineers, that the country around is now 
tolerably quiet. 

Tempio, the capital of Gallura, has a population of 
nearly 6000 inhabitants, amongst whom are some of the 
oldest noble families. Compared with other Sardinian 
towns, it is very respectable, as there are several large 
houses of three stories in height. The general appear- 
ance, however, is gloomy, owing to the red granite of 
which the buildings are constructed, and the heavy 
wooden balconies ; especially when added to the dark 
dresses, and black bushy hair and beards of the men ; 
with the Moorish costume of the women, who, though 
generally handsome, stalk about with a coarse woollen 
petticoat turned over their heads, so as to obscure their 
faces. The collegiate church, which the annual six 
months' residence of the bishop constitutes a cathedral, 
is a large, but heavy, unfinished building. Its decorations 
are so tawdry, and so poorly executed, as to be sneered 
at, even by the towns-people ; one of whom asked me 
whether a face, blasphemously painted as the likeness of 
the Almighty, did not resemble that of an owl. A new 
belfry tower, painted with all the colours of an iris, in 
fresco, completes the edifice. Near the centre of the 



OF SARDINIA. 



253 



town is a large nunnery, one of the best buildings in 
Tempio, occupied by two only remaining sisters, both 
advanced in years, and it is expected when they die it 
will be appropriated to some other purpose. There are 
no books here, if a few polemic volumes belonging to the 
college of the Scuole Pie are excepted; and the only 
good picture is a Magdalen in the church of this esta- 
blishment, which has, indeed, a heavenly cast of counte- 
nance. Capital guns and fine linens are boasted here, and 
the trade in fruits, cheese, hams, bacon, and other salted 
meats, is considerable : wine is made, but they consider 
the grapes so partially ripened, through coldness of cli- 
mate, that to ensure its keeping good, they add a portion 
of boiled lees, called " saba." I was rather surprised 
to find a tolerable " locanda" in this place ; and observed 
an odd custom in the two girls who waited at table, each 
balancing a candle on her head, whilst moving about the 
house, which left both their hands at liberty. 

I here met with an officer on the half-pay of our Cor- 
sican Rangers, who for seven hundred Spanish dollars, 
had purchased a property of about seventy acres, on 
which are corn fields, an excellent vineyard, and a wood : 
he remarked that a sum of ready money would work 
miracles in that country. The space between this estate 
and the hill on which Tempio stands, is finely cultivated, 
and some garden grounds close to the town may vie in 
neatness with those of Sassari. Besides the fountains of 
Pastini and Costavargia, there is a remarkable spring of 
water, on the declivity of the Limbarra, called Fontana 



254 



OF THE COASTS 



Fanzoni, said to be so excessively cold in certain seasons, 
that its waters break glass vessels, when suddenly poured 
into them; and that wine immersed therein for a few 
minutes loses its colour and taste, but not its strength. 

The inhabitants of Tempio and the Gallura, in general, 
are divided into three distinct classes, of which the first, 
of course, consists of the nobles, who are addressed 
by their respective titles: the second comprehends the 
advocates, notaries, physicians, and all those who dress 
in foreign cloth, and can afford to place their sons at 
school ; these are distinguished by " voste," a term cor- 
responding with the Italian " lei :" the third and most 
numerous class is that of the " plebei," the members of 
which are marked by wearing homespun clothes, and are 
addressed with " tu," or " voi," according to the age, 
and degree of familiarity. Amongst the last there is 
a curious custom called the " graminatoju," or wool- 
dressing. The sheep being sheared, the farmer's wife 
invites all the girls of her acquaintance, to assist in pre- 
paring the wool for the process of being spun and wove 
into foresi and orbacci : the girls in their turn apprize 
their suitors, and the house on the appointed day be- 
comes a general rendezvous, whither they all repair in 
ee gran tenuta." The wool being spread on the floor of 
the cottage, the young women, each provided with a 
bunch of flowers by the mistress of the house, sit on the 
ground around it, and commence the work of teasing 
and picking, while the youths take places on the forms 
and seats about. The damsels then break into extern- 



OF SARDINIA. 



255 



poraneous songs, accompanied by the guitar or " cetera," 
until they have all successively sung. One of the girls 
then draws the bouquet from her breast, and with a 
peculiar grace presents it to her swain, accompanying the 
act with half a verse, which the youth is obliged to com- 
plete with an appropriate rejoinder. This example is 
followed by the rest of the company, and should a 
stranger drop in, attracted by the music, he is sure of 
being thus favoured also, as a welcome ; and if ignorant 
of the dialect, his quota of verse is furnished by one of the 
bystanders. After this ceremony 3 they return to songs, 
and continue them with great spirit till the wool being 
finished^ is deposited in the " ratXapos™ or basket, when 
there is a repast ; and the whole concludes with dancing 
and rustic merriment. 

The north cape of Sardinia is formed by a bold cliffy 
headland, with the rocks and islets of Marmorata on its 
east side : the western part is called point Falcone^ and 
about two miles to the W.S. W. of it, stands the stout 
round tower of Longo Sardo, with a triangular space 
walled in. Porto Vecchio, or the harbour of Longo 
Sardo, is an iron-bound inlet, with a sandy beach at its 
south extreme, near which is a small mole ; there is suffi- 
cient depth for one or two vessels, but the north wind 
blows directly in ; and there is intemperie at the upper 
end in summer. Fresh water may be obtained near the 
Campo Santo, but that outside the tower is of a superior 
quality. On a point on the east side are ruins of the 
fort and walls of Longonas, a Pisan town, destroyed by 



256 



OF THE COASTS 



the Arragonese : it is thought by some to have been 
the Plubium of the ancients ; but I found nothing indi- 
cating this as the identical spot, though, by inference, it 
must have been somewhere in the neighbourhood. Santa 
Teresa, the new town, consists of a few granite-built 
houses, of a single story in height, healthily situated near 
the western point, on a hill considerably higher than that 
of Longonas. This place is rapidly increasing ; and its 
vicinity to Corsica, affords a facility to the exiles from 
that country, to live in correspondence with their relatives : 
besides which, it is said, that a twenty years' residence 
abroad expiates any crime. The whole space from 
Liscia hither, is a continuation of the neglected Galium 
tracts already mentioned, almost uninhabited, but every 
where evincing the same fertility in spontaneous vegeta- 
tion ; and delicious odours are wafted by every breeze 
from countless numbers of aromatic plants, that " waste 
their sweetness in the desert air." The Gallura is thought 
by most Sardinian writers, to have derived its name from 
the Gauls, who passed over with Galatus; but it was 
more probably from the Pisan Counts, who so long 
governed this district, and bore a cock in their arms. 
Dante, speaking of the marriage of Beatrice of Este, 
widow of Judge Ugolino, to Galeazzo Visconti, is mer- 
ciless in his satire : — 

Non li fara si bella sepoltura 
La vipera che i Milanesi accampa 
Com' avria fatto il Gallo di Gallura 

Leaving Longo Sardo, we pass by the rugged point 



OF SARDINIA. 



257 



and rocks of Monaca ; and proceeding about a mile to 
the S.W. enter the bay of Santa Reparata, formed by 
a sandy isthmus, connecting the close-grained granite 
mountain of Testa Grossa to the main. On the western 
side is a small chapel dedicated to the saint ; and on the 
highest summit a deserted turret, of very difficult access, 
but commanding a fine view over the whole strait of 
Bonifaccio: it is in latitude 41° 14' 28" N., and longi- 
tude 9° 08' 15" E. This cape was the Erebantium 
Promontorium of Ptolemy, and its western face is com- 
posed of strongly marked rugged cliffs, with several rocks 
above water, at its base, but nevertheless of deep ap- 
proach. On the north point is a cove, called Cala Spi- 
nosa, and near it are some quarries where fine granular 
stone may be obtained, and whence the columns were 
taken for the Pantheon at Rome, — that most admirable 
specimen of ancient taste. Fifty or sixty large shafts, 
intended for columns and pilasters, with parts of a sarco- 
phagus, were moved towards the beach, for exportation, 
and are still lying near the chapel of Santa Reparata. 
As a striking instance of the general ignorance of geogra- 
phers respecting Sardinia, it may not be improper here 
to notice the map of Le Rouge, of 1753, which was dedi- 
cated to the Royal Academy of Sciences, as " the result 
of ten years zealous application to precious manuscripts. " 
In this incorrect production, the following note is placed 
near the centre of Gallura : 66 Icy se voyent les matrices 
des colones du Pantheon — but how, from such an inland 

S 



958 



OF THE COASTS 



spot, the enormous masses were got down to the sea side, 
it would be difficult to explain. 

A spacious bay, with deep water, stretches from Testa 
Grossa to Monte Rosso, a bold headland of red granite, 
at the foot of which is a barren rock, called the Isoletta. 
On either side of the cape, a long tract of sand runs some 
distance inland, the one called Arena maggiore, the other 
Arena minore; both are easily distinguished from the 
offing, and mark the locality. Thence to the westward, 
an indented beach, with an islet off it called Cannella, 
extends to Vignola, a small port, supposed to be the 
Elephantaria of the Itinerary: here the coral boats 
repair for shelter and for water, and lie tolerably secure 
near the round tower. A few huts constitute the only 
coast habitations from Longo Sardo to Castel Sardo, a 
distance of upwards of thirty miles. The space between 
Vignola and Santa Reparata is a barren waste, but 
towards Coguinas presents a hilly, woody, uncultivated 
tract. At the back of Vignola is a fine valley with beau- 
tiful wild olive trees and vines, fertilized by a river mean- 
dering through it, the banks of which are literally covered 
with tortoises. Bounding these grounds, are the preci- 
pitous crags of Monte Cucuru, of which Cape Monte 
Fava, the next point on the coast, is a ramification. This 
range, till very lately, was infested with banditti, who 
built a village in a difficult fastness, from whence they 
could not be expelled; some however died off, others 
were pardoned, and the vicinity is now tolerably quiet. 



OF SARDINIA. 



259 



From point Vignola, a sterile, iron-bound coast, of 
forbidding aspect, trends away to the westward as far as 
Cape Monte Fava ; then follows a cove ending in the 
point and tower of Monfronara, off which lies the bare 
rock called Isola Rossa. Here a delicious plain opens 
to the view, with the river of Coguinas winding through 
it, and forming a lake near where it enters the sea, by 
the solitary chapel of St. Pietro di Mare. At the south 
end of the plain is Castel Doria, a well-built square 
tower, on an insulated mountain ; under the cliffs of which 
the river flows through a romantic ravine, wherein are 
the warm springs already mentioned in the second 
chapter. The Coguinas is considered as the second 
river in Sardinia ; it rises in the mountains of Bonorvo, 
and flowing through the plains of Giavesu and Ozieri, 
receiving several tributary streams, passes between Mount 
Sassu and Mount Acuto. At this place it acquires the 
name of Rio di Partidas, from dividing Anglona and 
Gallura ; but it seems also a geological boundary, the 
country to the eastward being composed entirely of 
granite, and that to the westward of trap and volcanic 
products — presenting a remarkable variety to the eye, in 
a ride of a few moments. 

Doria castle is furnished with a tank of excellent water, 
and tradition has assigned hidden treasure to its recesses ; 
in quest of which two friars had been visiting it, only a 
few days before our arrival. Being delayed in examining 
the tower, as a point for our survey, we forded the 
stream to a small village in a lovely situation, to seek 

S 2 



260 



OF THE COASTS 



accommodation for the night. On approaching the 
houses, the inmates of both sexes and all ages came out 
to welcome us, with such kindness and competition as to 
who should entertain us, that I was not a little surprized 
to find they were natives of Aggius and Bortigiadas, so 
celebrated in Sardinian song, for their ferocity *. The 
village is frequented only during the absence of intem- 
perie : it consists of a single row of houses in a grove of 
trees, and near it are the remains of a very neat church, 
of superior architectural taste to the usual Pisan edifices. 
The fine granite columns with which it is adorned have 
all been ruined by breaking them to the centre, near the 
base, to take out the leaden cramp, for bullets. This 
village is probably on the site of the Juliola of Ptolemy, 
and the Ampurias of the middle ages ; for the mouth of 
the Coguinas is too marshy for a town on its banks, 
though the little church of San Pietro has been named 
as the spot. 

Beyond this plain, the coast is broken by the pic- 
turesque volcanic cliffs, on which, at the height of 300 
feet, stands Castel Sardo, a fortified town, that has been 
highly distinguished in Sardinian annals, under various 
names. It is generally allowed to have been the Tibula 
of the tables of Ptolemy, but continuing in the possession 
of the Dorias from the twelfth to the middle of the four- 
teenth century, it was called Castel Genoese ; being then 
ceded to the Spaniards, it became Castel Arragonese, till 

* I have lately heard that our host was shot by an antagonist 
shortly after our visit. 



OF SARDINIA. 



261 



1767, when it acquired its present appellation. It occu- 
pies the summit of a steep rocky pinnacle immediately 
over the sea, sufficiently high and isolated to form a very 
strong position. Both the town walls and the dwellings 
are built of lava, and there is a citadel on a crag to the 
S.W. The streets are partly cut in steps and partly on 
the flat face of the rock — everywhere slippery and dan- 
gerous; whence, Coupled with the labour of ascending 
the hill, it has been ironically termed <fi Castiga Sardo." 
Though there are several tolerable houses, the greater 
portion are mere hovels, nor is there any " locanda" or 
other place for travellers. The bishop of Ampurias e 
Civita resides six months there, and the other half of the 
year at Tempio. The inhabitants of the town bear a 
bad, unsocial character, and the woody parts of the 
neighbouring country have been the scene of many mur- 
ders : indeed it is so indifferent a residence, on the whole, 
that it may be said, like the Carse of Gowrie, to want 
" water all the summer, fire all the winter, and the grace 
of God all the year through." 

At the foot of the cliffs, on each side of Castel Sardo, 
are little bays forming anchorages for boats, sufficiently 
good for their temporary occasions. Cala Gustina, the 
one to the N.E., is the most open ; but that to the S.W. 
has two sandy beaches, divided by a rugged ridge of 
petro-silicious lava. A rivulet that rises amongst the 
hills of Nulvi, empties itself here ; and the anchorage is 
covered by the rocky islet of Frisano, on which are the 
remains of a tower that, in conjunction with another 



OF THE COASTS 



under the cliff, defended the galleys that formerly laid 
there. N.fE., about six miles from the high steeple of 
Castel Sardo, is a dangerous shoal, which I named the 
Sardo rock : it has four fathoms on, and twenty to thirty 
around it, and must have been narrowly escaped by some 
of Lord Nelson's squadron, when beating here in 1803. 
Within a mile of Castel Sardo, and about the same dis- 
■ tance apart, are two other rocks, also discovered by our 
boats, with seven and eight fathoms on them, which 
should be noticed, because they occasion heavy overfalls 
in northerly winds. 

From Cala Frisana, a low coast trends along by the 
remains of the fishery of Pietra Foghu, now called the 
" old tonnara," which was abandoned because it inter- 
fered with the establishment at the Salinas. It has been 
stated, but without sufficient reason, to be on the site of 
the Turublum minus of the Itinerary. The country then 
assumes a new geological character, and the whole plain 
consists of various subordinate strata, as far as Osilo ; a 
town finely situated on a mountain, upwards of 2000 feet 
in height, easily distinguished by a dilapidated castle on 
its highest peak. On the sides of a fertile ravine, in the 
declivity forming the Romandia, are situated the large 
villages of Sorso and Sennori ; the former of 4000 inha- 
bitants, and the latter of 1620, who derive great profit 
from cultivating tobacco, wine, and corn, in the valley of 
Logulentu. Just without Sorso, is a large fountain, 
somewhat on the plan of the Rosello of Sassari ; it is a 
square-built structure, having pilasters and a large arch 



OF SARDINIA. 



263 



in front, with the head of Boreas on one side, and a cadu- 
ceus on the other; it has a plentiful supply of water, but 
it is not reckoned so pure as that of the more ruggedly 
situated Sennori. In 1807, serious disturbances took place 
in the Capo di Sopra, which the populace called aiding 
the king against the nobles. Many of the baronial pa- 
laces were destroyed, and that of Sorso, amongst others, 
still remains unroofed. Near the beach of Sorso, between 
the tonnara vecchia and the tower of Abbu-corrente, or 
running stream, is a large sheet of water, called lake 
Platamona, containing plenty of eels and mullet, but not 
regularly fished. 

Porto Torres is a small haven of two moles, defended 
by a stout octagon tower, which our observations place 
in latitude 40° 50' 31" N., and longitude 8° 22' 51" East. 
It is capable of holding a few small vessels, but those of 
a large size are obliged to lie in the road, nearly a mile 
outside — where, however, the anchorage is pretty good. 
Men-of-war so seldom ride here, that our arrival was a 
remarkable event, and from the captain-general to the 
meanest peasant, every one visited the ship. A tolerable 
street leads up from the port, and it is well inhabited, 
notwithstanding the annual attacks of intemperie, for the 
disease is not considered here to assume a very malignant 
character. At a short distance is the church and hamlet 
of San Gavino, on a gentle acclivity ; and the inhabitants 
of both parts are admitted to the rights of citizenship at 
Sassari, under the name of Baingius, the Sard name of 
Gavino. This saint, so greatly venerated here, is not 



264 



OF THE COASTS 



acknowledged in the Roman martyrology; and, indeed^ 
the story of his conversion, his decollation at port Bu- 
lagni, and his appearance to Calphurnius in a dream, has 
been received by the Sassarese as an indubitable truth, 
without any examination of the data on which it is 
founded. The church is one of the oldest structures in 
Sardinia, having been built about the year 1200, and 
used as a cathedral till the destruction of Torres in 
1441. It differs from other edifices of the kind in this 
island, in being covered with lead. Seventy ugly little 
turrets of the same metal are ranged along the roof, as 
popular symbols of the colony of Turris Lybisonis; a 
name derived from the pretended settlement here of the 
descendants of Hercules. The interior is supported by 
twenty-eight antique columns ; and it has a Porta Santa, 
by which the saint entered, which is carefully closed 
with masonry, but opened with great pomp and cere- 
mony every hundred years. In this church are kept 
some ancient sarcophagi, the best of which, representing 
Apollo and the Muses in high relief, stands near the 
door : an un wrought one, from its extraordinary dimen- 
sions, may have been one of the " labra balnearia" of the 
magnificent bath at the port. 

There are more Roman vestiges in this vicinity than 
in any other part of Sardinia : the fine tessellated pave- 
ment of the bath just mentioned, is one of the first 
objects which engages the attention on landing ; and the 
estuary, or opening from the hypocaustum, is still per- 
fect. Vestiges of a large aqueduct, industriously built 



OF SARDINIA. 



265 



in ignorance of the first principles of hydraulics, are seen 
on the road towards Sassari; near to which city some 
catacombs have been recently opened. Just above the 
port are the solid fragments of a ruin, long known as the 
palace of " King Barbaro but the late queen having 
ordered excavations to be made, an inscription was dis- 
covered, which proved the building to have been a temple 
dedicated to Fortune. Near this edifice was found, in 
March 1820, the following inscribed marble, which was 
standing by the door of the tower at the mole, during 
my last visit. 




PROVIDENTiSSIMO 
FORT I SSI MO Q.V ED N 
VALERIOaLICINIANO 
LICLNIOvPERPETVO 
AC SEMPER AVC 



•SEPTIMIVS-IA 
NVARIVS-VCPRAES 

PROV* SARD.DEV 
NViVUNJ MAIESTATIQ 
EIYS 




Near the mouth of the Rio Turritano, or of San 
Gavino, is a substantial Roman bridge, which gradually 
descending in a straight line from a high bank to a low 
one, particularly struck me ; because my late respected 
friend, Mr. Rennie, had mentioned the difficulty and ex- 
pense he incurred, in raising the south end of Waterloo- 
bridge. This of Turris is singularly irregular in its 
arches, yet the workmanship is so excellent, that all the 



266 



OF THE COASTS 



key-stones remain perfect. Fine fish are caught in the 
stream, by nets lowered from the bridge, with the ends 
guided by two small boats. This river rises in the hills 
of Logudoro, in several branches ; of which the principal 
are, the one between Tiesi and Baratu ; a second from 
the western part of Monte Santo ; and a third, the Mus- 
caris, from the springs by the abbey of Sta. Vennera, 
near Ploaghe. Into the last of these rivers falls another 
streamlet from Osilo, which flows round the Scala di 
Giocche, towards the bridge of St. George ; and from 
thence to the sea, it is called the Fiume Turritano. 

At the distance of little more than nine miles, of fine 
road, from Porto Torres, stands Sassari ; a city of up- 
wards of 20,000 inhabitants, and Capo Luogo of the 
northern division of the island. Sassari was but an 
insignificant village, till the frequent incursions of the 
Saracens drove the inhabitants of Turris to seek a place 
of security. At length, on the sacking of that city by 
the Longobards in 596, Sassari began to rise in import- 
ance, and the long street still called Turritana was named 
from the new settlers. In 1441, the archiepiscopal see 
and chapter of St. Gavino, were translated to Sassari by 
Pope Eugenius IV., and it thenceforward rivalled the 
metropolis in opulence and power ; insomuch that it was 
governed as a republic, a long time after the Arragonese 
conquest. It was taken by the French in 1527, and 
subjected to general pillage. The town is surrounded 
by a square-towered wall, with five gates and a citadel ; 
the latter now used merely as a barrack. It has a very 



OF SARDINIA. 



267 



tolerable main street ; and there are public walks, shaded 
by trees, all round the city, with one branch leading to 
the well of Rena. The situation is pleasing, being on a 
gentle declivity, falling rapidly towards the south; but 
forming a level extent of country on the other side, as 
far as the Nurra hills, and Alghero. The vicinity is 
finely laid out for the produce of wine, oil, fruits, vege- 
tables, and tobacco; and well may the Sassarese pride 
themselves on the superior culture of their " ortaggi," 
for I have seldom seen grounds more judiciously culti- 
vated, or more luxuriant, than the gardens of the Mar- 
quis Cugia, and the vineyards and olive groves of Taniga 
and Serra secca. 

Outside the N.E. or Macella gate, is the fountain of 
Rosello, an object of great admiration amongst the Sards, 
and highly praised by the native writers. I was, how- 
ever, much disappointed on seeing it ; for so heavy a base, 
merely to support a diminutive and faulty equestrian 
statue of San Gavino, gives the whole an air of mean- 
ness, which its richness in marbles cannot remove. But 
the want of taste does not impeach its utility ; and though 
I cannot join in the well-known iC chi non vidde Rosello 
non vidde Mondo," I can well appreciate the advantages, 
in that climate, of a fountain which has twelve mouths 
constantly pouring forth pure water. Besides this, there 
are numerous other springs, of which the most in request 
is the Acqua Chiara, to the west of the town, whose 
waters were formerly conducted by a Roman aqueduct 
to the city of Turris Lybisonis. 



268 



OF THE COASTS 



The city boasts of having twenty-four churches, ten 
convents, three nunneries, a Tridentine seminary, and 
a public hospital. The university is established in 
the former Jesuit's college, which in those days was 
called the " Massimo and since the restoration of the 
order, a place has been appointed for them under the 
name of " Collegio Canopoleno." The palace of the 
governor is an extensive edifice, and the public buildings 
in general are well adapted for their intended purposes ; 
but the palace of the Duke of Asmara is the best spe- 
cimen of architectural grandeur, for domestic habitation. 
There are two tolerable " locandas," besides coffee- 
houses ; and the shops are fully equal, if not in some in- 
stances superior, to those of Cagliari ; though the trade 
and commerce are still almost entirely in the hands of 
strangers. 

The cathedral church is dedicated to San Nicola, and 
is a large structure, with a very elaborate facade, which 
is much too high for the body of the building. The in- 
terior is clean and airy ; and the presbytery has a fine 
front, enriched with the native saints of Sardinia in high 
relief : a large monument by Canova, in memory of the 
late king's brother, occupies a space close to it. In the 
oldest church of Sassari, the pulpit is a handsome piece 
of sculpture, supported on the busts of three angels ; the 
front represents Saint Anthony at Rimini, addressing the 
fishes, which are curiously represented half out of the 
water, in listening attitudes. The convent of the order 
of Mercy, possesses a terrific image of the martyrdom of 



OF SARDINIA. 



269 



St. Serapis, who it appears was a young Englishman of 
the name of Scott, who was tortured and crucified at 
Algiers, in 1224. The legend relates, that there had 
already been eleven martyrs of the name, and there only 
wanted another to complete the mystic number of twelve. 
Accordingly, as each of the gates of Heaven was meta- 
phorically enriched with one of the precious stones, and 
the amethyst alone remained unappropriated, it was 
assigned to Scott, who wonderfully corresponded to the 
qualities assigned to this gem. It is added, that " he 
possessed, in a remarkable degree, the virtues of faith, 
hope, charity, prudence, justice, firmness, temperance, 
humility, penitence, patience, obedience, and poverty ; 
and that in continence he was so pure, that he never had 
looked a woman in the face." 

The society and amusements of Sassari are similar to 
those of the capital ; and as to politeness and respectability, 
it was observed to me by a lady, when speaking of their 
parties, that no place could boast of superior : 4 6 Nessun 
luogo del mondo," said she, " nemmeno Cagliari !" 
From the great beauty of its environs, and other circum- 
stances, I consider it a very preferable residence to the 
metropolis : yet it must not be concealed that the natives, 
though cheerful and clean, are esteemed very crafty ; and 
that even here, revenge is carried to an extent little to be 
expected in so populous a city. It was but a few days 
before my arrival, that a substantial citizen, named Conte, 
was killed in open day in his garden, by a bullet through 
the head, while talking to his pregnant wife, and whilst 



270 



OF THE COASTS 



the adjacent road was crowded with people. I was 
shown the fatal spot by a relation of both the murderer 
and the murdered ; and from him I learned that Madame 
Conte had died in premature labour, occasioned by 
horror; — yet the execrable ruffian was sentenced merely 
to imprisonment. 

At a short distance south of the city, is an abrupt de- 
clivity of 600 feet in depth, where murderers were for- 
merly wont to waylay their devoted victims, with compa- 
rative impunity. It is called the 6 4 Scala di Giocche," 
from the number of white snails collected there for the 
tables of Sassari ; and is at present practicable by means 
of a magnificent zig-zag road, cut down its face in 1822, 
by the engineers of the new road, and which I both 
descended and ascended in a carriage with great facility. 
From a bridge over the streamlet that turns several mills 
at the bottom of the glen, the view is unusually ro- 
mantic ; — the fine tabled forms of the precipices are occa- 
sionally broken by detached masses into picturesque 
forms, and the various foliage sprinkled amongst the 
white and ochrey tints of the rocks, produce a very har- 
monious warmth of colouring. From the bridge, a road 
winds under the fanciful cliffs of " Can'e Cervo," so 
called from the circumstance of a dog having chased a 
stag over them, so that both pursuer and pursued were 
dashed to pieces. 

Leaving Porto Torres, the coast line runs low and 
shallow, by the Paseluera and Rio Santo, to Point Bu- 
lagni, a spot famous for the martyrdoms of Saints Ga- 



OF SARDINIA. 



271 



vino, Proto, and Januarius. Thence the beach trends 
N.W. to the large lake of Pilla, beyond which are the 
lagoons where salt was formerly made, and where stand 
the tower and tonnara of Salinas. This fishery has an 
excellent boat cove, and affords great entertainment to 
the gentry of Sassari, who repair in parties to each 
61 Mattanza," or net-drawing. A vast tract of land at 
the back of this beach, extending from the Nurra moun- 
tains nearly to the villages, is literally a desert ; even in 
the cultivated spots, the land being common to all, no 
trees have been planted, no inclosures made, nor com- 
posts applied ; and by a sort of customary compromise 
between the citizens and the pastori, they are alternately 
tilled one year, and grazed the next. The plain is 
bounded by the Nurra mountains, a range affording con- 
siderable geological interest. Its southern part consists 
of compact and fibrous limestone, with gypsum and 
quartz, exhibiting distorted stratifications in the ravines. 
The northern portion is of granite in grand masses, 
while the intermediate is mostly schistose ; and the lower 
ground, as well as the plain towards Sassari, is composed 
of subordinate varieties. This is a fine district, having 
an excellent argillaceous soil, mixed with earthy carbo- 
nates of lime, and capable of being readily rendered 
fertile : but it is inhabited only by a few straggling shep- 
herds, dependant on Sassari ; and its woods and pastures, 
and ports and coves, which present such inducements 
for settling, are left almost to nature. Yet, on this 
region, in the large map of Le Rouge already mentioned, 



272 



OF THE COASTS 



there is this remark : " Peuples non conquis, qui ne 
payent point de taxes." 

Cape Falcon, the " Gorditanum promontorium* of 
Ptolemy, is the northern extreme of the Nurra; it has one 
tower on the highest summit, and a second on the iso- 
lated rock of Pelosa at its base. A narrow, shallow strait, 
lined with sharp rocks, runs between the cape and the 
island of Asinara ; and in the centre is the low flat isle of 
Vana or Piana, with a tower on its north coast. In these 
straits, and also when off them, we met with such fleets 
of little Nautili, as quite to baffle conjecture respecting 
their probable numbers. The whole surface of the sea, 
as far as the eye could discern, was thickly crowded, in- 
somuch, that it seemed as if they were likely to crush 
each other ; yet every one of these little animals pos- 
sessed the power of adjusting its specific gravity at plea- 
sure, and was thereby enabled to float, or to sink, to 
66 catch the driving gale," and to steer clear of its com- 
panions, with a wonderful beauty of evolution ; which the 
poet of our own day has thus finely moralized : 

The tender Nautilus who steers his prow, 
The sea-born sailor of his shell canoe, 
The ocean Mab, the fairy of the sea, 
Seems far less fragile, and alas ! more free! 
He, when the hghtning-winged Tornados sweep 
The surge, is safe — his port is in the deep — 
And triumphs o'er the Armadas of mankind, 
Which shake the world, yet crumble in the wind. 

Asinara, the ancient Herculis insula, is a mountainous 
island, intersected nearly from shore to shore by two 



OF SARDINIA. 



273 



ravines; and, from its singular form, has nearly thirty 
miles of coast line, to a comparatively small superficies. 
Here the martyrs, Saints Januarius and Proto, were 
exiled by " King Barbara," when it was only the abode 
of " poisonous snakes and other reptiles so far, how- 
ever, from hurting these holy men, it appears, they vo- 
luntarily afforded them aliment. Such food is at present 
in little request, — but the tortoises of this island and of 
the Nurra, are of the largest and best kind ; the kids 
are also highly esteemed for their delicacy of flavour. 
The hills of Asinara abound with wild olive trees, and 
the grounds in general afford good pasturage ; and, where 
cultivated, excellent fruits and corn. Yet there are but 
about a dozen shepherds, and two or three farmers on 
this otherwise deserted scene, and consequently the only 
return the Duke receives, is sixty or seventy dollars per 
annum. The approach from seaward is bold on all 
sides ; there are two or three good boat coves, and a con- 
venient anchorage, called Trabucato, for ships of any 
size, off the ruins of a deserted tonnara and village. On 
Trabucato point, which is the extreme of the gulf of 
Marciana, is a stout round tower, well placed for the 
defence of the fishery, and also of Cala Levante, a sandy 
bay to the east of it : this building was one of our prin- 
cipal points, and by our observations is determined to be 
in latitude 41° 04' 04" N., and longitude 8° 18' 53" E. 
A neglected redoubt, called Castellazzo, stands on a hill 
between the conical mount over Scombro cove, and the 
low point of Barbarossa. There are the towers of Oliva 

T 



274 



OF THE COASTS 



and Arena besides, so that the island might very easily 
be defended against predatory attacks. The north and 
west coasts exhibit fine tracts of micaceous schistus ; they 
are high and steep, Mount Scommunica, the principal 
elevation, being nearly 1500 feet above the sea. The pre- 
sent Duke of Asinara, who is the worthy head of the 
noble family of La Manca, disliking to hear his title 
ridiculed as " Duca degli Asini," has lately changed it 
to Valombrosa; on which occasion a wag of Sassari ob- 
served, " Ebbene ! l'asino dunque ha preso ombra." 

The west coast of the Nurra is very steep, with thirty 
to fifty fathoms depth of water, within a mile of the 
shore, and no bottom with 5 or 600 fathoms a little fur- 
ther out. Cape Falcon has a white rocky line trending 
southward to Point Coscia di Donna, and thence along 
the Costa Redondada, between which and the tonnara 
of the Salinas is a flat plain. At a little distance is a 
high rock, called I sola de"* Porri, or of leeks; whence the 
land gradually rises to Cape Negretto, a tabled cliff, 
with a cove at its base, called Acqua di Cervo. A bold 
coast then continues by the little bay of Porto Palma, 
(thought by many to be the Nymphaeus of old,) to Cape 
Argentaro, the extreme of a rocky mountain upwards of 
2000 feet in height, covered with brushwood and wild 
olive-trees ; beyond it is a bay with low shores, over which 
Sassari is easily seen from the offing. At the N.E. of 
the bay, is a cove for boats, defended by the Rotunda, a 
tower on a gentle hill, flanked by that of Spagna ; at the 
S.E. bight is a place called Porticciolo, above which is a 
tower of the same name. 



OF SARDINIA. 



275 



This bay is succeeded by the bold and picturesque 
cliffs of Monte Ghiscera, so called from the gypsum 
obtained there ; they terminate at Capo Caccia, (the Her- 
maeum promontorium of the ancients^) a noble headland, 
upwards of 500 feet in height. Between the two, on the 
highest summit of Mount Tirnidona, is the Torre della 
Penna^ much shattered by lightning ; and off this part of 
the coast are two isolated steep rocks, of which the 
southern one, Foradada, is perforated, and supposed to be 
the Diabetes of the tables of Ptolemy. Ships may round 
this cape at any distance, it being very bold, and then 
enter the excellent harbour of Porto Conte; which, though 
exposed to the S.W. winds, is perfectly safe for frigates, 
by bringing up in from six to ten fathoms water. 
Smaller vessels find still better shelter by running to the 
N.E..,of the Torre Nuova, and anchoring in three or 
four fathoms, on a bottom of sand and shells over muddy 
clay. The Torre Nuova is the only one in the bay that 
has a garrison, nor are there any other inhabitants ; but 
refreshments and wood may be had from Alghero, and 
water from some pools and wells at the head of the bay. 

Porto Conte appears to have been the Coracodes portus 
of ancient times: it is situated under Monte d'Oglio; and 
should Sassari ever depart from its lukewarm policy, and 
permit the improvement of the Nurra districts, (which 
constitute a fief of that city,) it would become a harbour 
of consequence. It has been tolerably fortified by towers 
against predatory attacks ; but several commanding hills 
at its back would make it cede to a regular approach. 

T 2 



276 



OF THE COASTS 



Capo Caccia is thus named, from being a favourite resort 
for shooting wild boars; the chase commences in the 
valleys at the foot of the hill, and the game is killed in 
endeavouring to escape by a particular pass. The first 
tower inside the cape is called Bollo, and close to it is an 
excellent cove for landing. A short distance hence, on 
the brow of the hill, is a very singular cavern, called the 
Tragonaja, 120 feet in depth; the descent is by a very 
narrow spiral passage, so dark and steep that, for the 
safety of the inquisitive, a rope is made fast at the 
entrance. At the bottom are two circular wells of limpid, 
but brackish, water, the N.W. one being 32 feet deep, 
and the S.E. one 44 ; their temperature was 60°. 2 of Fah- 
renheit, whilst that of the atmosphere outside was 72°. 
About half-way down is a beautiful stalactitic column, 
occupying the centre ; and resting there for a moment, 
the voices of the people, both above and below, had a 
curious, deceptive effect on the ear. Notwithstanding 
the difficulty of the descent, and the inferior quality of 
the water, the adjacent peasants have often been obliged 
to resort to it in summer. Nothing can exceed the still- 
ness and repose of this singular cavity ; the awful gloom 
and seclusion of which infuse a solemnity that mere 
midnight darkness, in any other place, is a stranger to: — 

I like your silence, it the more shows off 
Your wonder. 

Beyond Bolla tower are the coves of Calcara and Cala- 
longa, divided by a rocky point, on which is the tower of 
Tresmuraglie, well placed, with a square bastion at its 



OF SARDINIA. 



277 



base. At the head of Calalonga is a valley, apparently 
formed by the falling in of a vast grotto, and numbers 
of wild hogs are shot there. Beyond the rocky N.W. 
shore of Porto Conte, are the ruins of Saint Imbenia; 
and thence a beach of sand and fragments of coral bounds 
the head of the harbour. It trends round under Monte 
d'Oglio to the Torre Nuova, a stout martello tower, on a 
point near the middle of the east side of the port ; thus 
forming a kind of inner basin of considerable magnitude, 
but of little depth ; besides which, the bottom in-shore 
is so bristled with nacres, as to endanger hempen cables. 
From the head of the harbour, a fertile plain extends to 
Porticciolo and the Nurra mountains, across which the * 
N.W. winds blow with great violence in winter. Monte 
d'Oglio is conical, and nearly 1400 feet high ; under it 
is a rivulet that flows nearly all the year, from which 
water for shipping is obtained, and the operation is faci- 
litated by a tank, constructed by a party of English 
sailors. Passing Torre Nuova, the east coast of the port 
rises into a rocky hill of abrupt aspect, with the turret 
of Lino on its outer point. From the anchorage, the 
outline of the west side has a very strong resemblance, at 
night, to a huge mummy lying on its back. 

Outside Capo Caccia, and nearly opposite to Foradada, 
is an extensive grotto, called the " Antro di Nettuno 
the entrance is a little above the surface of the water, 
on the face of a rock, so steep as to have eight or nine 
fathoms water close in. On quitting the boat, footing is 
gained on a sort of portico that encloses a large lake ; 



278 



OF THE COASTS 



this part of the grotto is about thirty feet high, and near 
the centre is an enormous stalagmite, with a natural 
basin at the top, always full of fresh, insipid water, 
furnished by a perpetual filtration from above. Here 
numberless wild pigeons resort, and my officers enjoyed 
much sport, by lying in wait inside the rocky recesses, 
and shooting them as they settled down to drink. Turn- 
ing from this part towards the north, and winding 
by the second large stalactitic column, a narrow cham- 
ber presents itself, wherein is a spacious cistern of good 
fresh water. The view from the entrance, though highly 
gratifying, does not convey an idea of the picturesque 
grandeur of the interior, which cannot be seen but by 
hauling a boat across, and launching it in the lake. At 
the part where we embarked, there were eighteen feet 
of water; and the whole expanse was so translucent, that 
every object at the bottom was readily seen, though 
there was a motion, evidently simultaneous with the 
surges outside. We kept close to the northern shore, 
steering nearly east, till we came to a narrow pass, 
where the depth was thirty feet; after which the water 
shallowed suddenly to four feet, and then to two. Our 
course was now directed to the N.E. through a magnifi- 
cent row of white columnar stalactites, descending from 
a height of nearly sixty feet into the lake, and we soon 
after landed on a beach of fine sand. The passage across 
the lake is highly pleasing, especially when the several 
points are lighted up ; and as there is a constant circula- 
tion of air, there is no where much difference of tern- 



OF SARDINIA. 



279 



perature : that of the entrance we found 68°. 5, and that 
of the extreme point which we reached, 67°. From the 
sandy beach we then pursued a narrow chasm, and 
climbing a steep rock of about thirty feet in height, 
entered a very spacious cavern, adorned with every 
variety of fantastic incrustations, and masses of calcareous 
alabastrite, of singular beauty. A wanton destruction, 
however, has been committed amongst them, especially 
by the Chevalier Fonzenex, commander of a royal frigate; 
who, to procure some large pieces for polishing, battered 
the clusters with a fieldpiece. From this superb hall, 
various intricate and difficult passages lead off in different 
directions ; of these we traced several, especially two that 
led three or four hundred feet to the north eastward, and 
there terminated in a perpendicular precipice, over a hor- 
rible abyss, which it was impossible to contemplate with- 
out feelings of awe. Indeed it was with no small grati- 
fication, that we found our lights sufficient to lead us 
back again, to what my officers named the Gothic arcades"; 
whence, repassing the column s, we once more gained the 
open day. 

On quitting Porto Conte, rocky cliffs are seen extend- 
ing eastward as far as point Galera, the fissures of which 
afford shelter to thousands of wild pigeons. Inside 
Galera and under Monte d'Oglio is a cove, with a stout 
round tower of defence, and a well-built lazzaretto for 
quarantines of observation. Farther on, is the entrance 
of the lake Caliga, with a narrow ill-constructed bridge 
of many arches across it. Great quantities of excellent 



280 



OF THE COASTS 



fish are taken in this lake, and the best botarga in the 
island is made from them. The whole of the adjacent 
grounds, and indeed all the " macclne" extending thence 
to the Nurra mountains, are covered with the " palmizzu," 
or fan-palm, of which so much use is made as an article of 
food, that it is termed the manna of Alghero. From the 
Caliga, the beach runs in the direction of Alghero, and is 
lined with fine white sand-hills ; the approach is shallow 
for some distance out, and to the quantity of alga an- 
nually washed up on the beach, from this large bank, 
the town is said to owe its name. The outer extreme 
of the shoal water is partly marked by Maddalena, a 
little rock of decomposed granite, with a ruined chapel 
on it, lying to the N.W. of the town. To the S.W. of 
it there is tolerable summer anchorage, in from ten to 
fifteen fathoms, good holding ground ; yet this road has 
been seldom used by cruizers, and a ship of war is so 
great a novelty, that most of the ladies in the vicinity 
honoured us with a visit. I had given directions to Mr. 
Oake, the first lieutenant, to admit on board all families, 
recommended as respectable, by Signor Garibaldi, our 
vice-consul ; but the anxious crowds which poured in 
from the country villages, attired for the purpose, induced 
me to relax in my orders, and at length to allow of visitors 
without discrimination. 

Alghero was founded about the beginning of the 
twelfth century, by the Doria family, and surrendered in 
1353 to the Arragonese. Disliking their new masters, 
and encouraged by intriguers, the citizens shortly after 



OF SARDINIA. 



281 



revolted, but were reduced to obedience in 1355, by 
Peter the Ceremonious. To insure a faithful population 
in this town, the conqueror turned out the Sards and 
Genoese, and replaced them with Catalans; whence it 
has often been called Barcelonetta. It was .made a 
bishop's see in 1503, and Zatrillus, the governor, fortified 
it five years afterwards. The Spaniards were always 
partial to this place; and Charles V. was so delighted 
with Alghero, as to express a wish to make it his constant 
residence. From this partiality it received the title of 
" most faithful," and besides participating in all the pri- 
vileges that were granted to Cagliari and Sassari, it pos- 
sesses some exclusive rights. The town is built on a 
low rocky point, jutting out from a sandy beach ; it is in 
the shape of a parallelogram, with stout walls flanked by 
bastions and towers. It is entered by two gates, one at 
the mole and landing-place on the north, and the other 
at the ravelin in the landfront. The whole is in very 
tolerable repair, but being commanded by two neigh- 
bouring heights, does not deserve the credit it bears, as 
a place of arms ; and it is matter of surprise, why the 
Catalans did not build it higher up the hill of St. Julian. 
I observed some fine old brass guns on the fortifications, 
several of which were of early date, and inscribed " pa- 
rant haec fulmina pacem." 

The streets of Alghero, though narrow, are clean and 
well paved ; the private buildings are in the Spanish 
taste, and have little remarkable in them, the best being 
those of the noble families of Valverde, St. Victor, Mi- 



OF THE COASTS 



nerva, Carrione, and Serra. Besides rural chapels, there 
are twelve churches and convents ; with a clergy, consist- 
ing of a bishop, 17 canons, 60 priests, and 75 monks, to 
a population of 6700 souls. The cathedral is a spacious 
edifice ; its nave is supported by three heavy pilasters, 
with a huge column on each side of them : here is a 
pretty, but insipid monument, by Canova, in memory of 
the Duke of Monte Ferrato, a prince of the blood royal. 
Alghero has several public schools, which carry their 
scholars through a course of philosophy; and its institu- 
tion for surgery enables the pupils to present themselves 
for approval at either university. The hospital formerly 
received foundlings and adult patients, but the funds 
having fallen very low, the city now provides nurses for 
those little unfortunates who are abandoned in the wheel- 
box. They continue with them until their seventh year, 
when they would be dismissed to their fate, but that, I 
was assured, there is not a single instance of any of these 
affectionate and most praiseworthy women deserting their 
charge, whose roof, however humble, actually becomes 
ever after a maternal one. 

The language and manners of Catalonia being in great 
part retained, the society of Alghero, though not less 
pleasing, is esteemed more grave than in other Sardinian 
cities. There is a tolerable market for provisions, and 
there are several fountains of pure water outside the 
town; but within the walls, their dependance is upon 
cisterns only. A small theatre gives occasional employ- 
ment to travelling actors, but the citizens derive their 



OF SARDINIA. 



283 



greatest amusement from the ceremonies of their holidays. 
Amongst these, one is peculiar to the town, arising from 
a victory gained over the French in 1412, which was 
deemed so important, that a general procession takes 
place every 6th of May ; and until within these few years 
a pious Canon, dressed in a Chorister's robes, used to 
repeat the circumstances of the battle after high mass, 
in the cathedral. On the ramparts, towards San Giacomo, 
a grove of mulberry-trees forms a promenade as far as the 
tower of Sperone ; a horrible prison, wherein Vincenzo 
Sulis, a respectable Sard, had been immured nearly twenty 
years, for treasonable practices. After this dreadful con- 
finement he was removed as an exile to Maddalena, 
where he now remains, an instance of rare strength of 
constitution. At the Sperone I saw Don Marcello, a 
detestable wretch who had poisoned his wife, his brother, 
and a priest ; yet is protected from the gallows by the 
abused privilege of his nobility. So unequal is the 
administration of justice, even in atrocious crimes, that 
let the deliberate murderer but plead high rank, and he 
is invulnerable ! The general courts are not so well con- 
ducted here as in some other towns, for there are only 
six lawyers of the first grade, and their practice is pre- 
carious. The judges have no fixed salary, depending 
entirely on the suits, — from whence it cannot, I fear, but 
be inferred, that judicial poverty must open a road to 
judicial venality. 

The country around Alghero is well cultivated, and 
interspersed with large gardens and orchards, so as to 



284 



OF THE COASTS 



have a pleasing appearance. The produce is principally 
red wines of excellent quality, besides malvagia, muscato, 
giro, violos, monaco, and other white wines. Butter, 
cheese, vegetables, and fruits of most kinds are plentiful, 
and tobacco has lately become a profitable branch of agri- 
culture ; but the growth of corn and oil has not been so 
diligently attended to, as they deserve. The other ex- 
ports of Alghero consist of wool, skins, rags, anchovies, 
coral, and bones ; which last article is in such demand 
for the sugar- works at Marseilles, that to prevent needy 
boys from ransacking the burial grounds, they have been 
additionally secured. The climate and situation appear 
admirably adapted for producing silk, but the attempts 
hitherto made have been only for amusement. 

At a little distance to the southward of the town, along 
a delightful valley, sprinkled with seats and gardens, is 
the chapel of Valverde ; it stands in a picturesque ravine, 
amongst volcanic mountains, and around it are a few 
dependant habitations. The statue of the Madonna is 
not above seven inches high, and although without arms, 
has a child attached to it : this precious image was found 
by a peasant on the spot where the chapel is built, and 
being conveyed to Alghero, its sanctity was duly recog- 
nized by its being placed in the cathedral. To the sur- 
prise, however, of all the city, the sacred object escaped 
back to the place where it was discovered, on which the 
present edifice has been constructed. This idol is said to 
be made neither of wood, nor of stone, nor of metal, and 
as the rector was absent, I was unable to get the shrine 



OF SARDINIA. 



285 



opened, so that I might examine it ; but looking at it 
as closely as I well could, it seemed to be painted ala- 
baster. As to the materials of which their images are 
made, pious catholies are greatly discomposed by any 
questions on the subject, evidently offended at all ap- 
pearances of scrutiny, and hoping the veil of mystery 
may lend sublimity to their worship. The church being 
filled with votive arms, legs, hands, and breasts, fully in- 
dicates the high reputation of its Madonna ; and there is 
moreover an infinity of silver chains, lockets, jewels, and 
tresses of hair, from the various devotees. This saint is 
a special protectress of sportsmen, and there are accord- 
ingly many broken and bursten guns, to attest her pre- 
sence at accidents, and her interference in behalf of her 
followers. They relate that she was so gratified by the 
erection of the chapel, that on the annual festival in May, 
the fountain running in a channel from the priest's house 
to the church door, flowed with wine; but as this induced 
drunkenness, it has since flowed only with water ; and 
very bad water it is, being scarcely potable. 

Leaving Alghero for the coast to the southward, a 
range of gentle hills, planted with vineyards, extends as 
far as the Speranza and Poglina, backed by the ramifi- 
cations of Monte Minerva ; a mountain of bold outline, 
and 2410 feet of elevation. At about a mile distant 
from the town is Cala Buona, where coral boats anchor, 
and where the linen of Alghero is washed : in the adjoin- 
ing cove is the Cantaro, an abundant spring of pure 
water half way up the hill. A little further to the south 



286 



OF THE COASTS 



is the bay " delP Uomo morto," where the slabs of yel- 
lowish tufa are cut, with which Alghero is built. Thence 
towards Poglina and in the direction of Bosa, the soil 
is principally a volcanic decomposition, containing an 
abundance of interesting lithological specimens, as jas- 
pers, enamelled trachytes, chalcedonies, and geodes ; the 
last generally of irregular rotundity, but inclosing tole- 
rable crystals of sulphate of lime in their drusy cavities. 

Point Poglina has a deserted turret on its acclivity, 
and off its base lies a bare rock, which is frequented 
by sea-birds at the season of incubation. To the east- 
ward of the point, is a little rocky bay, called Port 
Poglina, resorted to by the Neapolitan coral fishers, who 
annually commence their operations in the spring, and 
terminate them on the festival of St. Rosario, the first 
Sunday in October ; addressing themselves, in the mean 
time, to the tutelary care of the u Virgo della pietra 
rubia," the patroness of Alghero, and of coral. Thence 
to Cape Marargiu, the coast is steep and tabled, with 
partial patches of corn, and gradually rising towards the 
summits of Mount Minerva, whose woody ravines abound 
with wild hogs, deer, and mufflons. Off Marargiu is an 
islet of moderate height, and from the point towards the 
E.S.E. a succession of trap cliffs extends to point Mora. 
On this point stands the ruined tower of Argentina, and 
thence to Bosa the mountain slopes gradually with the 
coast, in white hummocks. 

Bosa, which still retains its ancient name, is beautifully 
situated in a fine valley between two tabled hills, about 



OF SARDINIA. 



two miles from the site of the former city. It stands on 
the northern bank of the Termo, a river which lays 
claim to being the Temus of old ; it rises in the Meno- 
meni mountains, receives the tributary streams of Oinu, 
Frascineddu, and Attori; and passing the town under a 
long bridge, disembogues into the sea, a little to the 
westward of the city. Immediately opposite to the 
mouth is the islet of Rossa, fortified with a well-con- 
structed round tower, in latitude 40° 16' 40" N., and 
longitude 8° 25' 31" E. Between the islet and the shore, 
small vessels lie in tolerable security; but boats and other 
small craft seek shelter inside the river, in a berth where 
fine fish are easily taken. A beautiful bird, called 
" puzone de Santu Martinu," frequents this river, and 
is said to be found nowhere else in Sardinia ; it was until 
lately in repute with the credulous, for its power of in- 
creasing money by its presence, preserving woollen 
clothes from moths, and protecting houses, by its nest, 
against lightning. 

The appearance of Bosa, with its various churches 
and convents, is very imposing from the offing; nor is the 
favourable impression quite destroyed on entering it, for 
it is tolerably clean, and several of the streets are paved. 
It must not be withheld, however, that its situation in a 
close valley, on the muddy banks of a sluggish stream, is 
fatally unhealthy in summer ; added to which the river, 
although dykes have been constructed, is apt to inundate 
to a ruinous extent. Bosa is a bishop's see, and besides 
its nine churches, has a convent of Capuchins, and one of 



288 



OF THE COASTS 



Carmelites, with a seminary for the study of philosophy 
and theology. Amongst the private buildings, those of 
the noble families of Papina, Delitala, Sara, Uras, and 
Parpaglia, are the best. The town is badly off for 
water in the summer season, as that of the river becomes 
extremely turbid ; recourse is therefore had to cisterns. 
The population is about 3500, the middle and lower 
orders of which are principally attired in yellowish tanned 
leather. The natives are esteemed extremely active, not 
only carrying their oil, malvagia, cheese, flax, and fruit 
all over the island, but most of the travelling pedlars are 
also from this town. On a hill immediately above Bosa, 
are the remains of a sort of Acropolis, in which most of 
the wealthiest families resided during former wars. The 
walls, with two square towers about forty feet high, are 
in tolerable preservation, but except a cistern near the 
centre, and the church of St. Andrea, (where the annual 
festival of Bosa is celebrated,) the inclosed space has so 
completely verified the " periere ruinae," that it is occa- 
sionally sowed with wheat, or leguminous plants. Be- 
tween the ruins and the town, there is a fruitful olive 
grove, the produce of which is esteemed not inferior to 
that, so highly prized, of Sassari. 

About a mile to the southward of the river of Bosa, 
is a place called Pietras Nieddas, where a considerable 
quantity of timber is embarked for Toulon and Genoa; 
it is cut in the wood of Scanu, eight or nine miles inland, 
and dragged down to the sea-shore by oxen. The coast 
then runs by the towers of Columbargia, and Iscala 



OF SARDINIA. 



289 



Ruia, or red landing-place, between which are four rocky 
islets close to the shore. The tabled hills above, are part 
of the elevated plain, called the Planargia district, a 
fruitful and well-cultivated tract, with several thriving 
villages ; of which the " Capo-luogo" is Tres Nuraghes, 
so called from the remains of some Nuraggis near it. 
The road from Bosa to this place, is one of the worst in 
Sardinia, being encumbered with a succession of large 
and dangerous stones. On the upper plain, where the 
vegetation feels the N.W. wind, the trees are stunted, 
and grow so nearly horizontal, that the goats almost 
reside in them. Tres Nuraghes is a clean town, and its 
grain, cattle, honey, cherries, and other fruit are in high 
esteem ; whilst its new-milk cheeses, called " frescas," are 
reckoned the best in the kingdom. Part of the honey 
collected in this district is bitter, but not to that degree 
so acrimoniously ascribed to it by ancient writers. The 
rivulet that passes close by Tres Nuraghes, though small, 
never fails, and turns several mills near its source. While 
tracing the course of this stream, we were much amused 
by the vivacity and shrewdness of a person, whom we 
accidentally met. He appeared to be a lay-brother, and 
was very anxious to hear a few words of English spoken, 
as it was a gratification he had never yet experienced, 
although he had seen ' 6 Nelson's fleet at anchor in the 
gulf of Palma." In conversation he recurred to the 
commonplace arguments to prove, that if we do not 
believe in the Pope, we ought not to call ourselves Chris- 
tians, and said it was very grievous so many 66 poverettr 1 

U 



290 



OF THE COASTS 



should be lost. Yet the Almighty, he added, doubtless 
had some inscrutable lesson in view for mankind, in per- 
mitting so ungodly a race of heretics, (( though living on a 
barren" rock, to arrive at such power and splendour- 
Orthodox in his notions of the infallibility of the Vatican, 
he was yet rather displeased with Pius VI. for not ex- 
communicating the French nation, on its abolition of public 
worship. And adverting to our want of due respect 
for saints, he triumphantly demanded, " If you allow a 
King several ministers to help him, why should not God 
have assistants also !" 

The coast from Iscala Ruia tower, presents tabled 
cliffs of compact lava, with a tendency to basaltic division ; 
and continues along the base of Monte Ferru, a noble 
elevation of 2796 feet in height. In a fine situation on 
the side of this mountain, stands Cuglieri, containing an 
active population of 3500 souls, who enrich themselves 
by the culture of grain, and making great quantities of 
oil. It is readily distinguished by a castle on its south 
side, and a large church with a cupola and two turrets in 
the facade, on a hill just above it. In the adjacent woods 
there are walnuts, chestnuts, acorns, cherries, and wild 
pears in abundance ; affording the means of fattening a 
great number of hogs, so that the hams and sopressadas 
of this district are the best in the island. The whole 
country hence, towards Macomer and the Marghine, is 
studded with remains of Nuraggis ; some of which are so 
large, as to be really magnificent, when coupled with the 
scenes of natural sublimity in which they are placed. 



OF SARDINIA. 



291 



The extraordinary number of these vestiges attracts at- 
tention and excites curiosity ; but their probable date and 
use, as I have before mentioned, can only be approxi- 
mated by inference. Viewing them, however, as faithful, 
though silent monuments of men and days, that have 
totally passed away and escaped all record, they cannot 
but be contemplated as objects worthy both of admiration 
and reverence. 

A small stream called the Rio dell' Ovo, takes its rise 
in Monte Ferru, and falls into the sea at the " torre de 
fogu d'Oglio," a mean edifice erected on a stream of lava, 
that has flowed over a bed of tufa. In a beautiful situa- 
tion, about two miles inland, a paper-mill was established, 
that promised very fair success ; but the site being in- 
fected with intemperie, the workmen died off, and the 
inchoate undertaking was abandoned. About a mile 
south of this tower, is that of Pittinuri, over against a 
rivulet that runs by the church of Santa Caterina, and 
near which are found capital specimens of vitrified tra- 
chyte, and pearly obsidian. Here the hills descend in 
varied slopes, and the several vallies lead into wild and 
picturesque recesses amongst the mountains. From the 
beauty of this scenery, it has always been a favourite 
spot, and vestiges of an ancient amphitheatre and aque- 
duct attest its former consequence. Trap lavas con- 
tinue to the tower of Orfano-puddu, where there is a 
small stream that descends from the hills of Narbolia, 
beyond which the coast alters its geological character, and 
runs low and calcareous to Cape Mannu, which forms 

U 2 



292 



OF THE COASTS 



the south extreme of the gulf of Bosa. North of the 
cape is the islet of Pelosa, with several ruins on it, whence 
the view extends over the Campo di Sant' Anna, with 
Mount Arcuentu and the pinnacle called Finger-hill by- 
seamen, in the distance ; which latter forms a remarkable 
object, when seen from afar. 

The white round tower of Mannu stands on a tabled 
cliff of moderate height, which declines to the eastward, 
so as to give the cape the appearance of a gunner's quoin. 
At its base lies the lake of Nurachi, an object of horror 
to the natives, on account of the fearful noises which 
they pretend sometimes proceed from it. I imagined 
that sounds might be occasioned by some escape of air, of 
a different temperature to the external, but could neither 
hear nor see anything to warrant the report. It is a shal- 
low lagoon, with several sedgy islets in it, and barren 
banks, of a melancholy aspect. South of the cape, the 
bay of Inchiudine, which has a sandy beach near the lake, 
affords anchorage in off-shore winds in eight or ten 
fathoms. From point La Mora a straight coast runs 
due south, to the point and turret of Sevo, whence it 
gradually trends by the bay of Fontana Megha to Cape 
San Marco, a tongue of land, with a well placed tower on 
a conical hill, and another on its eastern side. Directly 
off this part of the coast, lie the rocks of Mai di ventre, 
and Coscia di donna, formerly called Bertula isles. Mai 
di ventre is triangular and flat, and shelves out to the 
N.E. and S.W., whilst Coscia di donna is a small 
black rock, with deep water close to it, except a reef at 



OF SARDINIA. 



293 



the N.N.E. end. These rocks are about six miles apart, 
and four or five from the coast; the channel between 
them is perfectly safe for the largest ships, keeping a 
little more than half way towards Mal-di-ventre ; nor is 
there any danger from the isles to the main. 

Between Cape San Marco, and the flat point of La 
Frasca, which are upwards of five miles apart, is the ex- 
tensive bay of Oristano, where ships find excellent an- 
chorage during all the shore winds; but as the westerly 
ones blow full in, and occasion a great sea and surf, it is 
sometimes a disagreeable winter-berth. Two or three 
vessels may indeed lie securely, in six or seven fathoms, 
by rounding San Marco, and bringing up to the east- 
ward of the two towers ; or, if running from a southerly 
gale, by standing inside La Frasca to a similar depth. 
It is requisite in either of these cases, however, to re- 
member, that there are reefs tailing out a little off each 
point. The shore round the bay is formed by a beach 
bounding a succession of large lakes ; and the Tirsi, the 
principal river of Sardinia, empties itself at the N.E. 
part. Directly off the mouth of the river are three shoals, 
that might be advantageously built upon, and allow 
vessels to lie securely inside of them, in from four to six 
fathoms water. The eastern part of the port, opposite 
the lake of Sassu, is also shoal ; so that with the diffi- 
culty of procuring wood, and water in the summer, to- 
gether with its unhealthiness, and exposure to westerly 
winds, it is on the whole a bad anchorage. Cattle, and 
refreshments, may however be obtained in any quantity, 



294 



OF THE COASTS 



embarking them at the Torre Grande. This tower is in 
39° 53' 55" N. latitude, and 8° 28' 40" East longitude. 

Oristano was built by Orzoccorus, the second judge of 
Arborea, about the year 1070, and was considerably 
enlarged by Turpin, his son. It is said to have derived 
its name, Aureum Stagnum, from the riches of its lakes, 
and became of great consequence during the middle ages, 
as the capital of the important province of Arborea. Its 
political loss of rank, and its insalubrity, have greatly 
reduced the old town, nor are there many remains of it, 
excepting the two gates, and the tower that bears the 
town bell : yet it is still a busy and commercial place, of 
4500 inhabitants, and is reckoned wealthy. It stands on 
a low plain, between the river Tirsi, and Santa Giusta ; 
and from the harbour its steeples and turrets have a 
tolerable appearance, but the town is straggling and un- 
paved. Although so near the river, the city is unpro- 
vided with good water ; those who can afford it, procure 
that indispensable commodity from the Scilli, a pure well 
between the town and the Tirsi : the rest of the supply 
is derived from the cisterns. The society is esteemed 
more lively in winter, than that of Alghero, but in sum- 
mer all strangers avoid the place. The principal families 
are those of Arcais, Paderi, Spano, and Enna; but 
none can trace a descent from the illustrious Eleanor. 

There are several convents and churches in Oristano, 
besides the hospital, " de' buon Fratelli," the Tridentine 
seminary, and a college of the Scuole Pie. A celebrated 
crucifix, said to have been carved by Nicodemus, a 



OF SARDINIA. 



295 



cotemporary of our Saviour, has been preserved here 
with great veneration ; and amongst the pictures, is one 
of a youth being raised to life, — the painting is some- 
what injured by time, but the vacant look, and other 
appearances of resuscitation, are admirably expressed. 
The cathedral is a spacious edifice, highly decorated 
with marbles, and has a detached octangular belfry, 
which is one of the most striking objects in the town. 
A spiral staircase, of 120 steps, leads the visitor to the 
place where the bells are suspended; and thirty-two 
more conduct him to the summit, whence a superb view 
is obtained of the adjacent country: — the grand plain 
of the Campo di St. Anna, with its villages and lakes, 
and the spacious bay, form the immediate objects : — to 
the north are the bold outlines of Monte Ferru ; to the 
east the long range of the Trebina hills, (so called from 
the triple peaks near the centre;) to the S.E. the Cam- 
pidano, with the castle of Monreale in the midst ; and 
to the south, the singular summits of Arcuentu, which 
close the prospect. This fine scene is of a more smiling 
aspect in winter and spring, than at other seasons : for 
after June the whole country is a sun-burnt, dreary 
waste ; and the atmosphere becomes also so pestilential 
and deadly, as to authorize the proverb that, — 

A Oristano che ghe va, 
In Oristano ghe resta ! 

To the north of cape San Marco, are the ruins of 
Tharros, a city of the early Greeks ; where coins, cameos^ 
terra-cotta vases, and gold ornaments have been fre- 



296 OF THE COASTS 

quently found. The present vestiges are too vague to 
form an idea of its former extent or respectability, as the 
city has been plundered to construct the adjacent vil- 
lages, according to the voice of tradition, and the pro- 
verb that arose after the building of Oristano, — " por- 
tant a Carrus sa perda de Tarrus." The old square 
abbey [church of San Giovanni de Sinis, stands on the 
site, and close by it is a fountain, whence a small supply 
of fresh water may be obtained; to the north are the 
lagoons and fisheries of Sbirtas, with a boat communica- 
tion into the port. At the head of the bay is the lake of 
Cabras, which is fled by the Biola, — a stream that flows 
from the hills of San Lussurgiu, by Bonarcado to the 
plain, through the Vega of Milis, a vale clothed with 
orange groves. The village of Cabras, though too 
near the marshes to be healthy, has a very pleasing 
appearance in spring, surrounded by its various gardens, 
orchards, and olive plantations. It is moreover very 
clean, and boasts of upwards of 3000 inhabitants. The 
Cabras is the richest of the Oristano lakes, abounding 
with excellent fish, but which are not eat in summer, 
being then supposed to partake of the putridity of the 
stagnant waters. This lagoon is entered by a single 
mouth, branching afterwards into four several channels, 
and extends some distance from the bay towards the 
north. At the part called Mare Pontis, (from several 
little bridges the fishermen have erected over the canals, 
between the sea and the lakes,) there is an extensive 
weir formed by a labyrinth of reed palisades, which is 



OF SARDINIA. 



very profitable to the proprietors. The mullets when 
salted and smoked are called Moghelle, and the roes are 
made into botarga, by being salted, dried, and pressed be- 
tween two boards. About a mile eastward of the entrance 
are some magazines, and a well constructed tower re- 
doubt, called Torre Grande : here the produce of the 
plain, and the coarse pottery of Oristano, are embarked ; 
and near it are vestiges of the entrenchments which were 
thrown up in 1737. 

Rather more than a mile and a half from the Torre 
Grande, is the Tirsi, the Thyrsus of Ptolemy. There 
are two or three bank islets, where the width is increased 
by a communication with the lake of Santa Giusta, and 
a productive fishery is formed by means of the species 
of palisades, here called Nassargius. This river rises at 
the fountain della Salute, near Buduso, whilst the Garo- 
fai rises near Bitri, and the streams form a junction 
below Monte Raso. Flowing along the base of the Go- 
ceano, under the bridge of Illorai, it reaches the large 
and fruitful vale of Ottana, and winding to the S.W. 
through beautiful scenery, receives several tributary 
streams. From Fordongianus it meanders by Ollastra 
and Simaxis, to the great plain of Oristano, forming 
almost a right angle beyond the city. The bridge and 
causeway leading into Oristano, is one of the most consi- 
derable works in Sardinia, and, according to tradition, 
was built by the devil in a single night. The Tirsi, 
though the principal river of the island, becomes ford- 
able near the mouth in very dry summers ; whereas in 



298 



OF THE COASTS 



winter it is apt to inundate large tracts of land, notwith- 
standing many parts are embanked at a great expense. 

The long lagoon of Zalsu, or Sassu, at the bottom of 
the bay, communicates with the sea by the Bocca Foggi. 
At the adjacent village of Marrubiu there are vestiges of 
Roman baths, supposed to indicate the site of the ancient 
Aquae Neapolitans . An uncultivated tract lies between 
the Bocca Foggi, and the salt-works and fishery of Mar- 
cieddi, to the westward of which are the vineyards of 
Torralba. About a mile from Uras, the village east of 
Torralba, is a lonely house, inhabited by a man who, as 
head of a party of banditti, defied the laws for twenty 
years ; having, it is said, killed thirteen men with his own 
hands : yet when all his adherents had been taken, and 
most of them executed, he very unexpectedly received 
the royal pardon. Marcieddi is a profitable fishery, and 
very fine cockles are bred in the creek formed by point 
Corrusitini. Opposite to them is a square edifice, with 
an arched roof, standing amongst some inconsiderable 
vestiges that mark the site of Neapolis, whence probably 
arose the corruption of the present name of Naboli. 
This is the southern extreme of the Campo di Sant* 
Anna, one of the richest plains in Sardinia. Its produce 
consists of oil, corn, pulse, wool, botarga, and cheese : all 
the vegetable productions are of superior size and qua- 
lity ; and the artichokes, melons, and pomegranates are 
highly esteemed. The raisins and dry fruits of Cabras 
are taken to distant parts of the island, proving a source 
of great profit to that village. Of the wines, that which 



OF SARDINIA. 



299 



is called guernaccia, is decidedly the best ; although that 
from the grounds of Torralba is in the greatest repute. 
Large quantities of fish are taken in the lakes, especially 
those of Cabras and Santa Giusta, where the fishermen 
use a curious boat, made of the reeds that grow there, 
bound together in a very simple manner. The shores of 
the lakes are frequented by a variety of aquatic fowls ; 
amongst which are the Ziriulu, a bird not unlike a 
woodcock, several kinds of cranes, and most of the varie- 
ties of ducks. Swans also repair to these waters, in the 
winter season ; yet they are said to be unknown in any 
other part of the island. 

Cape la Frasca is a long fiat point, of moderate height, 
falling abruptly on the northern side, and it is supposed 
that the famous temple of Sardopatris stood on its highest 
part. On the east side is a tower, called St. Antonio, 
which, though not seen from seaward, guards the fisheries 
of Marcieddi, and Boarei, in conjunction with that of 
Naboli. The rivulet of Pabilonis rises near Sardara, 
and, in its course, receives a branch from Gonosfanadiga, 
near the base of the Murgiani. On the south side of 
this picturesque mountain, stands the healthy and popu- 
lous town of Villa Cidro ; a name said to be derived, not 
from its citrons, but from a fine cedar-tree, that formerly 
shaded three plentiful springs near the cathedral. Villa 
Cidro being finely situated, and the inhabitants enjoying 
remarkably good health, it is singular that numbers of 
the females are affected with bad teeth. The town is 
built in the form of a cross, and the principal part lies 



300 



OF THE COASTS 



along a fruitful and well-cultivated valley ; but its un- 
paved and narrow streets, with many bouses of one story 
and no windows, spoil the effect. A branch of the Eleni 
hurries through it, the water of which, in summer, is 
distributed, by portions of time, to each garden alter- 
nately. I observed that the garden gates were secured 
by ingenious wooden locks, which by the teeth of a bolt 
in the upper part, falling into the cogs of the lower, are so 
safe, that they cannot be disengaged without the proper 
key : simple as this contrivance appeared at first sight, I 
soon recognised in it the identical lock used by the Egyp- 
tians, Greeks, and Romans, before the use of metal ones 
had generally obtained. There is a great abundance of 
cherries and other fruit, but very little grain; a large 
quantity of white wine is made, yet of so indifferent a 
quality, that it is usually distilled for brandy. The 
cathedral, with its solid belfry, forms a fine edifice for a 
country town ; it is dedicated to Santa Barbara, and has 
a handsome high altar, with a marble balustrade enclos- 
ing the presbytery. The country people are brought 
even to tears, by a group of figures, called " delle Amine,' 
in the lateral chapel, where the corpse of our Saviour is 
lying on an altar, between Nicodemus and Joseph ; 
whilst at the sides are three females, and two disciples, in 
agonized distress. The bishop of Ales, in consequence 
of the intemperie, which rages in his see during the sum- 
mer, passes that season in Villa Cidro. The edifice 
erected for his temporary residence is very spacious, and 
from its windows commands an extensive view over the 



OF SARDINIA. 



301 



Campidano : in one of the apartments, I observe .1 a sin- 
gular painting, representing a man with three heads, in- 
tended to typify the holy Trinal Unity. 

A pleasing walk of about half an hour, in a northern 
direction, leads to " su Spindulu," a beautiful cascade in 
a rocky dell amongst the mountains ; which, falling from 
granite cliffs and crags, sixty feet in height, is received 
by two vast natural rocky basins, and thence forms the 
limpid rivulet of Alassia, which joins the Pabilonis. The 
supply of water in summer is scanty, but in winter and 
spring, su Spindulu, animated by its continual murmur 
and motion, is a most interesting object to the lover of 
nature. In the alpine valley towards Iglesias, is a dan- 
gerous pass, called " Gutturu e seu," from its being as 
slippery as if smeared over with tallow ; yet as it short- 
ens the distance between the two towns, it is frequently 
preferred by the peasmts. 

Quitting Cape la Frasca, the coast continues flat, and 
of the same height, for about two miles, when it is termi- 
nated by a point with a high pinnacle off it, forming a 
cove inside, called Porto Naviri. To the southward is 
the point and tower of Frumentargiu, and a detached 
rock, beyond which is a sandy bay with a royal tonnara, 
a chapel, and a battery. The shore is then enriched 
with farms and cultivated grounds, backed by the isolated 
mountains of Guspini ; these are themselves surmounted 
by the rugged ridges of Arcuentu, the peak of which is 
2315 feet above the level of the sea; it is remarkable 
for having strong breezes prevailing around it, and being 



302 



OF THE COASTS 



a distinguishing sea-mark, is called " the finger of Oris- 
tano.'" From Fontana Yaz to Monte Arro is an irregu- 
lar rocky line, with vast detached patches of sand at 
intervals, unadorned with any towers or dwellings, and 
the whole has a dreary, neglected aspect. Monte Arro 
is a sterile headland with bold cliffs towards the sea; and 
similar ones continue, with but few breaks, to Cape 
Pecora. A tower on this point guards the entrance of 
the Flumini major, a stream rising on the western de- 
clivity of the mountains of Arbus. The coast then 
trends along the base of Monte Ferru, by the cove called 
Cala Domestica, to Point Rama, on the south side of 
which lies the conical rock of 46 Pan di zucchero."" Be- 
twixt Point Rama and Cape Altano is Porto Paglia, a 
large bay quite open to the westerly gales : near its cen- 
tre, the Fontan' a Mare disembogues, a rivulet that flows 
from the woody recesses of Mount San Giovanni. On a 
small elevation, at the S.E. end of the bay, is a tonnara 
and fishing village, defended by a round tower, absurdly 
placed on a low point. The N.E. winds are extremely 
injurious to boats and small craft, as they rush with in- 
credible violence from the mountains. 

This is a very deserted part of Sardinia, and only 
assumes an appearance of life during the fishing season ; 
for, excepting the miserable hamlet of Gonnesa, there is 
no town nearer than Iglesias, the capo-luogo of the dis- 
trict. Iglesias is finely situated, amongst limestone hills, 
above a plain, remarkable for its corn, wine, and fruits ; 
indeed, from the richness of its orchards and olive-groves, 



OF SARDINIA. 



303 



this vale has been named by some, the Tempe of Sar- 
dinia ; imagination having long depicted, under that de- 
nomination, an Arcadian plain, instead of the narrow 
defile that really exists between Ossa and Olympus. 
The town is surrounded by a dilapidated Pisan wall, 
with the remains of a castle on a gentle hill to the north- 
ward. In the middle ages, this fortress was reckoned 
the western key of Cagliari, and the principal of the 
three strong holds, so important in the conflicts of those 
times ; the second is at a little distance from the town of 
Massargiu, on a picturesque and well- wooded mountain ; 
and the third and most inaccessible, is on a curious coni- 
cal hill, evidently volcanic, above the village of Siliqua. 
Iglesias is abundantly watered by various springs, of 
which the best, the Bingiargia, is conducted by an aque- 
duct, along a promenade of about 8000 feet in length, to 
the fountain of San Nicola, near the centre of the town. 
The streets are generally dirty and ill-paved, though 
there are several excellent mansions ; and that of Signior 
Currios may be particularly mentioned, for the hospitality 
of the owner. The bishop's palace is a large and well- 
finished building, with a Tridentine seminary attached 
to it. Besides its spacious old cathedral, and other 
churches, Iglesias has a Capuchin convent of nine bre- 
thren, a Dominican with eight, and a Franciscan with 
ten. There is also a nunnery, dedicated to Santa Chiara, 
containing twenty-two sisters, doomed never to quit its 
walls; though I found by a visit which I made to a 
friend's sister, that conversation, at least, is very freely 



804 



OF THE COASTS 



permitted. The confectionary of this convent is in great 
request over the whole of the Sulcis, not only for public 
festivals, but also at private parties. The eleemosy- 
nary distributions of food, at these establishments, are 
much boasted of ; but, though beneficial in their imme- 
diate effect, the ultimate consequence is evidently that of 
continuing and increasing both sloth and poverty. 

I passed through the fertile plain of Domus-noas, to 
visit a singular perforation through a limestone moun- 
tain, called the Grotta di San Giovanni. We first went 
to Carcheras, a pretty islet, formed by the Acqua 
Rotta, and covered with fine trees: on it is a fulling 
establishment, belonging to the Capuchins, some of whom 
reside there from December to June, the rest of the 
year being unhealthy. Here we obtained several large 
bundles of canes, which were bruised, to use as torches ; 
and passing thence over the scoriae of a very ancient fur- 
nace, we arrived at a wild dell, where, in the side of a 
stupendous cliff, we saw the mouth of the grotto ; with 
the Acqua Rotta rolling its waters over a pebbly bed 
below it. This stream we crossed by some huge frag- 
ments of rock, and gained the entrance of the cave, 
which is about 80 or 90 feet high, and 130 broad, pre- 
serving the same breadth to the distance of 300 feet 
inside. Just by this aperture is a portion of double 
Cyclopian wall, of similar construction with the Nuraggis, 
having from a small door on its eastern side, a narrow 
passage leading diagonally upwards : the solid stalactitic 
coating over the whole, betokens a duration of many ages. 



OF SARDINIA. 



305 



At a little distance from this wall, some immense stones 
nearly choke the passage ; but they are the only obsta- 
cles to surmount, for the streams of winter have rendered 
the bottom as even as a beaten road, through its whole 
length of nearly a mile and a quarter, to " Su fossu de 
genn 1 e merti," the northern extreme; and although im- 
mersed in the darkness of Erebus, there is a constant 
current of pure air. In many parts it is upwards of 300 
feet in breadth and 120 in height, covered in every 
direction with various and fantastic incrustations, so 
beautiful and white as to resemble frozen cascades. One 
enormous stalagmite is called the pulpit, and near it is 
a flight of natural steps in the alabastrite, leading to a 
vast basin, in which several hundred tons of pure and 
limpid water are contained. Near the northern end are 
the remains of a chapel and other buildings ; and it is 
said, that some infected families were compelled to reside 
there, during a plague that ravaged Iglesias. At length 
we gained the open day, in a grand ravine of crags and 
dells, studded with woods of ilex, beech, cork, wild 
olive, and other trees ; and well stocked with mufflons, 
deer, and wild hogs. The waters of the Acqua-rotta were 
never known to fail, even in the hottest summers, and in 
quality are also excellent ; but from their not being used 
below Domus-noas during the fulling season, they have 
been absurdly defamed, and Le Rouge writes in his map, 
" riviere qui empoisonne." 

From Porto Paglia, by rounding the rugged Porri 
rocks, passing the cove of Paglietto, and keeping about 

X 



306 



OF THE COASTS 



a mile to the S.S.E. we arrive at the Tonnara and fish- 
ing village of Porto Scus. This is a miserable place, 
inhabited by about 250 persons ; but defended by an ex- 
cellent coast tower on a commanding point, with Cadena, 
an isolated rock to the S.W. of it. Thence the coast 
runs nearly south, to point Piringianu, intersected by a 
rivulet, that flows from the mountain over Villa Massar- 
gia. The bay of Daiga then extends to point Sudurettu, 
extremely shallow along shore, and across the channel 
of Sant' Antioco; even the Bogaza to the S.E. only 
allowing of boats to pass into the gulf of Palmas. 

About two miles to the westward lies the island of 
San Pietro, which, with the coast of Sant' Antioco, forms 
a spacious harbour, affording secure anchorage in every 
wind : various irregular shoals render its access diffi- 
cult, though if buoyed off, there could not be a more 
desirable place to run for. A stranger, however, may 
even now easily enter by the southern channel, and 
anchor in six or seven fathoms, between Sant' Antioco 
and Carloforte ; a situation where I rode out two very 
severe gales from the N.W. in perfectly smooth water. 
Coming in from the northward, ships must borrow on 
Piana, the islet E. of San Pietro, to avoid a dangerous 
shoal mid-channel, called cc Secca de' Marrni," from a 
Swedish ship, laden with marbles, having been lost upon 
it about a century ago. In October, 1824, thirteen large 
blocks were very ingeniously fished up by some of the 
boats of the Tonnara, under the direction of Cavalier 
Porcile. Fresh-water may be had at wells, between 



OF SARDINIA. 



307 



Spalmatore point and Vittorio tower ; or in rainy weather 
at a canal by the Campo Santo, south of the town ; or 
from the public cisterns outside the Porta Casibba. 
Abundance of wood and refreshments may be obtained 
from the Sulcis ; and the islands afford good shooting, 
with excellent fishing on the coasts. 

From the number of its falcons, the ancients named 
this island Hierakon, and Accipitrum : its present appel- 
lation is derived from a little old chapel near the town, 
the date of which is unknown, it having been found in a 
ruined state, when the colony arrived. San Pietro is of a 
triangular shape, and eighteen or twenty miles in circuit : 
it is higher on the north side than on the south, and con- 
sists chiefly of rocky hills, with intervening patches of 
cultivated land. It produces sufficient corn in the vallies, 
for about two months consumption, and olives and vines 
are planted in all available places. Excepting its excel- 
lent figs, very little fruit is obtained; for the severe 
N.W. winds to which it is exposed, destroy the blossoms 
before the germ is set. Their market is supplied with 
excellent vegetables, but the bread is very indifferent. A 
fine field is here opened to the mineralogist in the profu- 
sion of obsidian, prismatic pitch-stones, and volcanic jas- 
pers. The first settlers were some unfortunate refugees 
from Tabarca in 1737, under the guidance of Tagliafico. 
These were followed, three or four years afterwards, by 
as many of their late companions as could escape from 
Tunis; and amongst others was Padre G. Napoli, 
author of the " Note illustrate," who was still living when 

X 2 



308 



OF THE COASTS 



I left Cagliari. From the spirit and talent of Count 
Porcile, who, by his marriage with the daughter of Tag- 
liafico, succeeded to the command, the new colony in- 
creased in strength and respectability. 

Though the success of the establishment was partly 
owing to the unanimity and moral principles of the Ta- 
barchins, it also, in great part, arose from the address 
and enlarged sentiments of Porcile ; for it was this gen- 
tleman who procured funds, who obtained the royal 
patronage, who instituted a system of defence, and who 
prevailed on the people to resume the fishing occupations, 
which had already been so profitable to them at Tabarca. 
A town and castle were built on the shores of a small 
bay on the east side, and, in honour of the sovereign, 
named Carloforte. As a still further protection, the 
tower redoubt of Vittorio was erected at the Spalmatore ; 
it is a very substantial edifice, mounting eight guns upon 
its parapet, and four in casemates; with a ditch and glacis 
around it. On the summit is a small circular column, 
intended to bear a light, but which has not hitherto been 
used for that purpose ; as this, however, would be the 
lighthouse, if the importance of the place should increase, 
I took my principal observations there, and settled its 
geographical position to be in latitude 39° 8' 28" N., and 
longitude 8° IT 28" E. 

The progress of the colony was harassed by occasional 
threats from their old enemies the Tunisians ; but no 
serious misfortune befel them until the commencement of 
1793, when the island , was taken by the French fleet. 



OF SARDINIA. 



309 



The statue of Charles Emmanuel, with its fine emblema- 
tical figures, which had been erected on the Marina in 
1785, was on this occasion buried by the natives, to pre- 
serve it from the republican fury of their invaders ; and 
these favourite objects were soon afterwards restored to 
sight, in presence of Admiral Borgia, under a royal 
salute. A yet more severe visitation was about to be in- 
flicted : — in 1798, upwards of 2000 Moors suddenly dis- 
embarked on the beach of Malfatano from six Tunisian 
vessels, while many of the best islanders were absent at 
the fisheries. The unarmed labourers sought refuge in 
the mountains, while another landing being made to the 
northward, and the invalid garrison of Vittorio failing in 
its duty, the town was surrounded and taken. Brutality 
and pillage, in all their hideous forms, visited every house ; 
and 850 men, women, and children were driven into 
slavery. The unhappy captives remained at Tunis, and 
from the embarrassments of the Sardinian government, 
were not ransomed until the year 1805. One of my 
narrators was a complete illustration of the 6 6 mens me- 
minisse horret," for the mere recollection of his disaster 
was so frightful to him, that he could not relate it with- 
out evident agitation. u Senza vantarmi," added he, 
(i if there had been many of my mind, we should never 
have visited Tunis." On my asking him why he did 
not at least make his escape to the mountains, <e Ah ! 
Signor Commandante," he gravely replied, " my fat 
(pinguedine ) prevented that." 

On the return of the ransomed colony, the fortifica- 



310 



OF THE COASTS 



tions were strengthened, and the garrison was increased. 
A tolerable wall was built around the town, inclosing a 
much larger space than is yet occupied with buildings. 
This was considered so great and so requisite a safe- 
guard, that the inhabitants of both sexes contributed 
their labour gratis, thus reducing the public expense to 
8000 dollars. There is only one bastion of the old fort 
left standing, but the flag is still hoisted there : it is in a 
commanding situation, on a hill, partly covered with a 
stratum of prismatic pitchstone porphyry, only two or 
three feet in thickness, coated with a rose-coloured oxida- 
tion in every crevice. Maria Teresa, the late queen, 
with her court, passed the two successive Springs of 
1810 and 1811, in 66 villeggiatura," here; but to guard 
against a predatory descent of the Moors, additional 
troops were quartered in the forts, a look-out was esta- 
blished on Monte Guardia, (a station nearly 600 feet 
high,) and several gun-boats were kept cruizing around. 
In 1815, the Tunisians recollecting the rich booty they 
had before obtained, re-appeared off the port ; but finding 
Major Pastouri and his garrison well prepared to give 
them a warm reception, they sheered off again. The in- 
habitants in 1824 amounted to 2830, and were busied 
with their salterns, vineyards, and fisheries of tunnies, 
anchovies, sardines, and coral. The commandant but 
lately introduced the culture of the cotton plant around 
the town, and I supplied him with some Maltese seed^ 
but the example has not been followed to any extent. 
There are many spots sufficiently clear for the purpose, 



OF SARDINIA. 



311 



but the peasants being very poor, cannot wait long 
enough for the return that may be expected from cotton; 
whereas by cultivating culinary vegetables, they get 
something daily to minister to their pressing wants. They 
are of good moral character, very peaceable, and so at- 
tached to each other, that no law-suit has taken place 
amongst them during their ninety years' residence. They 
call themselves Carolini, in honour of Charles Emmanuel ; 
and they hold the Sards, with their sheepskin clothing, 
their ravenous mode of feeding, and their habit of sleep- 
ing on the ground, i( come animali," in utter contempt. 
They possess nearly 100 boats, and the town occasionally 
assumes an appearance of bustle. The streets are in 
tolerable order, and to ensure the public health, a lazza- 
retto has been established on the north point of the bay. 
The Carolini suffered formerly from the autumnal fevers, 
occasioned by the neighbouring marshes ; but these being 
now laid out in salterns, the bad effects are greatly dimi- 
nished. Still there are the two neglected lakes of Vivagna 
and Pescetti, towards Punta Nera, which render the air 
insalubrious in summer. The salterns now yield an an- 
nual produce of 16 or 17,000 salms of salt, and are capa- 
ble of yielding much more. At the back of the salterns, 
is an isolated hillock with every appearance of its being 
artificial. And in the same vicinity, while we were at 
anchor off the spot, a farmer passed his ploughshare 
over an amphora, that proved to be full of Carthaginian 
brass coins, of which I purchased about 250 : they were 
of the usual type, — obverse, the head of Ceres, and re- 



OF THE COASTS 



verse, a horse, or palm tree, or both — with only two ex- 
ceptions; one, a warrior's head with a singular helmet 
(apparently intended to represent leather), and the other, 
some ears of wheat. The chief peculiarity of this set 
was, there being a Punic character between the horse's 
legs, which differed in every coin. 

Proceeding by Punta Grossa, we arrived at the little 
church and hamlet of Scabeccieri, opposite to which is 
the rocky islet of Piana, belonging to the Marquis of 
Villa Marina, whereon is one of the finest tonnaras in 
the kingdom; in proof of which a proverb says, " Porto 
Scus e il re, e Tisola Piana la regina." The church is 
surmounted on the apex by a large cross, which by the 
addition of some rays at the bottom, is converted into the 
appropriate emblem of an anchor. Opposite, is the 
palace of the Marquis, which is defended by a small 
battery of four guns, pointed towards the landing-place. 
This islet is composed of grey volcanic tufa, and ochreous 
porphyry, in horizontal strata, cleft into enormous rocks, 
of similar geological character with that of San Pietro. 
On the west side are two bays, the beach of which con- 
sists almost entirely of minute shells, and small fragments 
of larger ones, more or less rounded by attrition : to the 
southward is a rock called Isolotto de' Topi, where a few 
sheep are kept, for the use of the tunny fishers. 

The north coast of San Pietro presents a line of steep 
cliffs, marked between Calalonga and Punta dell' Oche, 
with some white spots called the Tacche-bianche. A bay 
extends thence to point Burrona, having the islet of 



OF SARDINIA. 



313 



Stea on the eastern side, and the inlet of Cala Vinagra 
on the southern. This little port is protected by a rocky 
islet at its entrance, and runs very narrow towards the 
head, where there is a small fort and tonnara on an 
elevated rock. Nearly a mile from this establishment, is 
a shallow lake of fresh water, rather more than two fur- 
longs in length, surrounded, except to the eastward, with 
abrupt hills covered with shrubs. Off the west point of 
San Pietro, lies the Gallo Rock ; it is about thirty feet 
high on the west side, and falls gradually to the S.E. 
with a tolerable passage between it and the main. The 
coast then, with several indentations, trends away S.S.E. 
to the point and rock of Rossa, between which and Can- 
noni point, is " il becco, 1 '' where red, yellow, and black 
earths are duo;, resembling the abraum of the Isle of 
Wight, intermixed with various coloured jaspers. The 
S. W. point is that of Buoi Marini, a red tabled cliff, 
considerably higher than the adjacent ones, with a farm 
on its summit, and a rock at its base. Between this and 
Punta Nera, (which is a dark headland to the S.E., and 
the most remarkable part of the many-coloured shore of 
the south coas^) lie the point and rocks of Colonna, 
whose perpendicular front, with nearly equi-distant fis- 
sures at right angles, gives the imposing air of a gigantic 
cyclopean wall. On the highest of the isolated rocks, is 
an aerie, formed of large sticks, and surrounded by a sort 
of glacis of stones, out of the reach of man, but exposed 
to all the vicissitudes of the seasons. Amongst these 
rocks, lobsters of extraordinary size are taken, yet excel- 



314 



OF THE COASTS 



lent in quality : one that was presented to me, weighed 
fourteen English pounds, and each of the claws were two 
pounds and a half. 

S.E. of San Pietro, across a channel of rather more 
than a mile, is the island of Sanf Antioco,— the Plum- 
baria of Ptolemy, and Enosis of Pliny. The S.E. point 
consists of fine limestone ; but the general character of 
the island is volcanic, and amongst its trachytes and por- 
phyries are some beautiful specimens of pearly obsidian. 
It is almost twenty-six miles in circuit, is diversified with 
hills and vallies, and has a thermal spring in considerable 
estimation. Off the N.W. shore there is a rock near 
Cala Seta, where there is a tower and village, in a very 
unwholesome situation; the latter was first settled in 
1769, by some of the redeemed Tabarchins, and five 
years afterwards several Piedmontese families joined 
them. The malignity of the summer air occasioned the 
death of the greater part of the new settlers ; yet their 
places were nevertheless soon filled up by a number of 
Sicilians, who also for the greater part perished, and the 
place would have been abandoned, but for the vineyards 
having proved very productive, in the sandy soil around. 
The coast in the neighbourhood is rocky and steep, 
though not high ; near Cala Seta, at the Spiaggia Grande, 
fine shells are thrown up on the beach, after fresh breezes. 
Past the salt-marshes of Cala Maggiore, lies the Barca 
rock, whence at about three miles and a half distant, to 
the S.S.E., is an inlet called Cala Longa, about a quarter 
of a mile deep, and sixty or seventy yards broad, with 



OF SARDINIA. 



315 



three fathoms water at the entrance ; — the land is steep 
on both sides, but there is a sandy beach at the head, 
formed by a water-course. The whole of the western 
coast of Sant' Antioco may be termed rocky and iron- 
bound ; with a bold approach for vessels, having generally 
from twelve to sixteen fathoms water, two furlongs off 
shore. About a mile to the south of Longa, is Cala 
Sapone, beyond some detached rocks to which tunny 
nets are occasionally moored. Cala Sapone is a small 
sandy inlet, sheltered in a slight degree by two islets, 
but dangerous in westerly gales ; — a house and square 
fort stand at the bottom of the cove. 

The S.W. point of the island called Sperone, forms 
a channel with the quoin-shaped islet of Vacca, and the 
lower one of Vitelli. This channel has from thirteen to 
twenty fathoms water through it ; and is clear of all dan- 
ger, except three rocks fifteen feet below the surface, 
lying about S. 24° W., distant half a mile from Cannai 
tower, on the low bluff point to the eastward. S.S.W. 
from Vacca nearly five miles, across a clear channel of 
thirty or forty fathoms depth, is Toro rock, the ancient 
Boaria ; a bold object, that marks this part of the coast 
from seaward : it is five or six hundred feet in height, 
with abrupt sides of difficult access, and friable materials. 
The summit is covered with a thickset brushwood, which 
is a favourite resort of vast numbers of rabbits. We 
found the latitude of Toro to be 38° 51' 58" N., the lon- 
gitude 8° 22' 44" E., and the magnetic variation of the 
compass 17° 20' 30" W. 



316 



OF THE COASTS 



At the back of Cannai is a wood, where wild horses 
existed till about seventy years ago, and where many 
deer are still met with. Leaving Cannai point, the 
coast runs up to the northward, and at the distance of 
two miles is a small sandy bay, filled with sunken rocks ; 
it is called Port Maldrosia, and supplies a little fresh 
water at the southern end of the beach. Much amuse- 
ment is afforded by the taking of wild pigeons, in the 
grottoes on the coast of this island, by means of nets and 
boats ; — after the nets have been laid, the boats enter 
with all the noise which the sportsmen can make, and the 
affrighted birds drop by dozens into the snares. Ap- 
proaching point Alga, the shore is very flat, and from it 
a bay winds in towards an isolated bank, about a quarter 
of a mile in circuit, on which stands a square building, 
mounting three guns. This flat is connected with the 
island by a rough stone bridge, 300 yards in length. On 
a rise to the N.W. about half a mile from the sea, stands 
the town of Sant' Antioco, containing 1800 inhabitants, 
and deriving its name from the martyr, whose relics were 
discovered there in 1615, as related in the third chapter. 
On the highest part is an old irregular castle, which, 
though garrisoned, proved insufficient to prevent a thou- 
sand Tunisians from pillaging the houses, and carrying 
off the Commandant's sister, with 200 of the inhabitants, 
into slavery, so late as the 16th of October, 1815. Be- 
tween the town and Cala Seta is a tolerably cultivated 
valley, the produce of which is principally wine and 
grain, for the N.W. winds are too prevalent and strong 



OF SARDINIA. 



317 



for fruit trees to prosper. The wheat and grapes raised 
on this tract, are very superior to the produce of the 
opposite isle of San Pietro. 

To the north of the town are the remains of a fort 
called " Casteddu Crastu the front wall, fifty-four 
yards in length, and twelve in height, is of coarse por- 
phyry ; and the east one is a hundred yards long and nine 
high. There are, besides, fragments of a mole, and other 
vestiges, with a Necropolis on the side of the hill, which 
seem to stamp this as the site of Sulcis, a city which 
geographers have placed very variously ; most of them 
asserting it to have been on the mainland, because a dis- 
trict there is still known by that name. Sulcis was so 
rich at the epoch of the ruinous visit of Cassar to Sar- 
dinia, that it was constrained to pay 100,000 sestertii, 
besides a heavy contribution of corn, as a penalty for 
its attachment to the party of Pompey. Medals and 
vases are frequently found in the neighbourhood ; and in 
] 820, the Grecian armour, now in the Museum of Cag- 
liari, was accidentally discovered by a peasant, who, as 
is the custom with nearly one-third of the population, 
resided in the tombs of the Necropolis. With a view of 
observing the plan and peculiarities of these ruins, it 
was my intention to have made a few excavations, on a 
small scale; and I obtained the viceroy's permission to 
effect them. But I found that though Count Porcile 
had long rented the island, it was a " Commenda," or 
part of the patrimony of the Knights of Saint Lazarus 
and Mauritius. The resident agent of this order was 



318 



OF THE COASTS 



mightily indignant at the liberty the viceroy had taken, 
and querulously quoted a royal prohibition relative to 
exporting " objects of taste" from Sardinia. This came 
with a sorry grace from one who had lately sent two fine 
sarcophagi, which were found at Pauli Gerrei, to his 
patron at Genoa ; yet 1 desisted, for my object being 
more general than particular, I was not inclined to enter 
into terms with him. Anxious, however, to establish 
the identity of the city, I sent Mr. Graves, one of my 
midshipmen, to make inquiries after any inscriptions or 
other antiquities that might have been recently dis- 
covered. The governor on hearing of my curiosity, (to 
shew that he did not participate in the officiousness of 
the agent,) ordered a drummer to beat through the 
town, and to repeat the object of my research in all the 
open places. The success, however, was not equal to his 
zeal, — a few second brass colonial coins, in bad preser- 
vation, being the only result. In 1819, an inscription 
had been found, of some local interest, as it proves that 
Sulcis was designated a Roman Municipium, the several 
offices of which were held by Luc. Corn. Marcellus, to 
whose memory the marble was dedicated. 

The east coast of Sant' Antioco forms the west side of 
the gulf of Palmas. This is a spacious bay, offering 
safe and commodious anchorage for fleets in the violent 
S.W., W., and N.W. gales of winter. For these excel- 
lent qualities, and the facilities with which supplies may 
be obtained, the gulf of Palmas was much esteemed by 
Lord Nelson; though he complained bitterly, in a letter 



OF SARDINIA. 



319 



to his lady, of the violation of the common rights of hos- 
pitality which he had suffered on one of his visits there. 
The northern shore of the bay is a succession of flat 
islets, which often join at low water: the principal are 
called Caralonga, Santatu, and Peramazar. These are 
bounded by the mainland of the Sulcis, which trending 
away to the southward, forms the east side of the gulf. 
The Sulcis is a well-cultivated district, belonging to pro- 
prietors who usually reside in Iglesias, but occasionally 
inhabit their " furiadroxus," or farm-houses. Besides the 
linens, woollens, and large quantities of cheese which are 
made in the Sulcis, it is rich in grain, pulse, and " trigu 
e Indias," or maize; oranges, lemons, cherries, apples, 
and other fruits are abundant ; the cattle are esteemed 
next to those of Ogliastra, and the horses, sheep, and 
swine are in great repute. 

This portion of Sardinia has suffered many vicissitudes, 
and a few years ago was reduced from the thirty villages 
enumerated by Fara, to the single town of Teulada; 
but the bishop of Iglesias appointed priests to celebrate 
mass, wherever a few cottages were erected around the 
ruins of an old church or chapel; and the villages now 
amount to twelve. In several places, two or three farm- 
houses are built adjacent to each other, thus forming a 
hamlet of friends ; and there is a village of about twenty 
large furiadroxus, all belonging to, or inhabited by, the 
Medda family, in patriarcal union. 

At the N.E. extreme of Palmas bay, there is a sandy 
bight, with a bank running a mile off shore ; it is called 



320 



OF THE COASTS 



Port Gadrano, and small craft lie there in perfect secu- 
rity. From an inscription lately discovered by Signor 
Mameli, between Villarios and this place, it seems that 
a town, called Bitia or Bisa, stood in the vicinity. At 
Villarios there is a fine Nuraggi adjoining to a magazine 
belonging to Signor Curios ; and in a vault near it, that 
gentleman found some coarse amphora?, a few coins of 
the Lower Empire, and various fragments of " supellex 
Romana." This Nuraggi consists of a cone, flanked by 
four smaller ones, and the vault is connected with it by a 
corridor, of an evidently later date, from cement being 
used hi it. The whole of this neighbourhood in the 
direction of Teulada and Pula, is strewed with these edi- 
fices, though not of such good workmanship as those 
which are more to the northward. 

Near Gadrano is a kind of lake, called Porto Botte, 
which was long used as a saltern ; but about sixteen years 
ago was broken up, and converted into a fishery. The 
stream of Palmas is supposed to be the Debotes of ancient 
geographers ; it rises in the mountains of Capu Terra, 
and falls into Porto Botte. An insulated hill reaches 
hence to Point Sarri, a steep elevation of 130 feet above 
the sea : and just beyond it is Porto Pino, a large sheet 
of water, which was alternately a salt-work or a fishery, 
as storms opened or shut up the entrance. But in 1821, 
a canal was cut, and fenced with fascines and stones, so 
as to admit a boat, and it has now become a very profit- 
able establishment for fattening eels and mullet, and pre- 
paring botarga. The proprietor gave a dinner to some 



OF SARDINIA. 



321 



of our officers who happened to be on duty there ; it 
consisted principally of fish, cooked in every possible 
manner ; and the Mauredda farmers, in their goat-skin 
dresses, imparted a curious effect to the scene. 

Continuing along towards Port Piombo, la Iao is met 
with, a cluster of straggling rocks above water ; and near 
them are some bights, where country boats take in wood 
for Cagliari. Point Piombo is a bare sloping projection, 
with a round tower on a height, but below its summit : 
about a quarter of a mile west of this point is a small 
shoal, with a fathom and a half of water upon it, and 
twelve or fourteen close to. Cape Teulada, the ancient 
Tegulare, is a singularly bold headland, nearly 900 feet 
high, forming the eastern extreme of the gulf of Palma. 
Its face presents a long range of precipitous cliffs, with a 
breadth of little more than half a mile. It has a bifid 
summit, and on the north shelves down to a sandy 
isthmus, on which is a lake that deposits very fine salt. 
Cala Piombo is formed on the west, and Cala Pilastro 
on the east : the latter is defended by the tower of Ga- 
leato. The gulf of Palmas is of remarkably easy access, 
with capital anchorage all over it ; but especially in 
seven or eight fathoms on the western side, and the coun- 
try around affords provisions and refreshments, for any 
number of ships. 

In the bay between Teulada and Cape Malfatano is a 
port, sheltered by a steep bare rock, called I sola Rossa, 
resorted to by coasting vessels. A shoal, with nine feet 
water on it, lies between the isle and Pilastro point, near 

Y 



OF THE COASTS 



the cove of Scovo. At the head of the bay is a shallow 
beach, bounding a lake that communicates with the sea, 
and is entered by the flat boats of the country. The 
tower of Budello stands on its western point, to protect 
the vessels at Rossa. Attracted by the fertility of the 
soil, a little colony of Sicilians were induced, a few years 
ago, to settle in this neighbourhood ; but the intemperie, 
consequent on the very fertility that had so allured them, 
carried off the greater part. The survivors were happy 
to escape, with the loss of all their exertions in clearing 
the ground, building habitations, and other labour. 

Cape Malfatano is a narrow neck of land, and between 
it and Spartivento is a harbour about a mile and a half 
deep, with the two islets of Teredo at the entrance, and 
anchorage near the centre in six fathoms. This may be 
recognised as the Portus Herculis of the ancients, with 
more reason than the open beach of Chia, where some of 
the Sardinian archaeologists would place it. Cape Spar- 
tivento bears hence S.S.E., about two miles and a half 
distant, the coast running along the base of some rugged 
granite mountains. On one of the most remarkable sum- 
mits, and at an elevation of upwards of a thousand feet, 
are some Cyclopian vestiges, called the Giants' Tower, 
by the peasants, from the magnitude of the stones. This 
structure, situated amongst bare cliffs, wild ravines, and 
desolate grounds, appeared a ruin of art amidst a ruin of 
nature, and imparted to the scene inexpressible grandeur: 
the mountains of Capu Terra formed a bold outline bar- 
rier to the north, finely contrasting with the wide expanse 



OF SARDINIA. 



323 



of ocean to the south ; while the sun, setting in a blaze of 
glory, completed the prospect. 

The whole of this part of the coast has a barren aspect, 
and, but for its guard towers, would have a very deserted 
appearance. Off the west side of Spartivento lie the 
Faraglioni rocks, and beyond the cape are the bay and 
isle of Giudeo, with a low beach and marshy lakes on 
the north, extending as far as the point on which the 
tower of Chia stands. Before arriving at the rock of 
Caladolino, a river disembogues, that rises in the hills 
of Domus de Maria, and waters the pretty valley of 
Chia. After passing this place, a coast nearly straight 
runs by the point and tower of Ostia, to the grounds of 
Pula, and is mostly divided into gravelly beaches of 
bold approach, backed by hills, in the woody clefts of 
which there is an abundance of game, especially wild 
boars. The cape of St. Effisius was the Cuniocharium 
promontory of Ptolemy ; it is a black conical crag with a 
rock lying off it, and is joined to the main by a low sand, 
strewed with ruins. Amongst these scattered remains, 
we observed many of the disgusting though harmless 
" pistiglioni," a reptile of the lizard kind, and not unlike 
that which is called the woodslave in Sicily. On the 
highest point stands a stout tower of three guns, and on 
its west side is a small well sheltered boat cove. About 
a mile N.E. of the point is the isle of San Macario, 
rather more than a furlong off shore, and forming a 
channel of three or four fathoms depth : a round tower 
which caps the summit is entered by a rope ladder, and 

Y 2 



243 



OF THE COASTS 



as the isle is high and steep, the anchorage and beach of 
Pula are well commanded. Between the isle and the 
point to the northward, where the Torre del Diavolo is 
curiously built up against a hilly pinnacle, ships usually 
anchor for the purpose of watering ; taking up a birth at 
pleasure in seven or eight fathoms, about a mile off 
shore. The water is obtained from the mouth of the 
Rieras, a stream which, rising in the hills of San Michele, 
winds through the beautiful and fruitful, but unhealthy 
vale, that extends from the beach to the mountains. 

Pula is the site of the ancient Nora, and from its 
eligible situation fully justifies the taste of its founders. 
Here, near the hillock of 66 sa guardia e is mongias," a 
striking proof is afforded of the high antiquity of the 
structures called Nuraggis, by the foundation of a Ro- 
man aqueduct actually resting upon the one called " Su 
Nuraggi arruttu.'" This Nuraggi is a large cone, indif- 
ferently constructed of coarse blocks, without mortar, 
and flanked by four smaller ones. The aqueduct is 
lined with cement, and in former days conducted the 
water from the hills to that part of Nora, where the 
chapel of Saint Effisius now stands. Besides these, 
there are the remains of a small theatre and several baths, 
with vestiges of fortifications, moles, and other ruins, too 
much destroyed to admit of correct description, — though, 
with regard to the materials of their construction, they 
consist chiefly of the coarse porphyry found on the 
adjacent hills. In ancient times this part constituted 
a respectable province, and contained seventeen villages, 



OF SARDINIA. 



325 



besides Nora. After this flourishing epoch, it remained 
uninhabited for several centuries, until the end of the 
sixteenth, when the present Tillages arose. Nora is sup- 
posed to have been destroyed during the incursions of 
the Vandals, but the historic details are very slight. 
Tinder the Romans, its inhabitants accused Scaurus, the 
praetor, of malversation, and his defence was undertaken 
by Cicero, who, to ridicule the Sards, contemptuously 
termed them " Mastruccati." 

From Pula to the shores of the lake of Cagliari, the 
grounds exhibit the best specimen of cultivation in the 
island, and are consequently extremely productive. Where 
custom and precedent have become so far tyrannical, as 
to depress a nation, it is gratifying to observe any exer- 
cise of reason; and the successful endeavours of the 
Marquis of Sta. Croce and VilT Ermosa, at Orri, must 
be recorded to his honour, — although he has been thought 
precipitate in his improvements, and has entered too con- 
fidently into the spirit of u Ungentum pungit, pungentum 
Rusticus ungit," for the meridian of Sardinia. 

Passing the cliffy rocks on which stands the Torre del 
Diavolo, we coast by the low point of Saorro, with a 
turret of two guns, commanded by some abrupt hills in 
the rear. From this point, a sandy beach trends along 
by the towers of Mezzo, Orri, Su Loi, La Maddalena, 
and the Scaffa, north-eastward to the riva di S. Agostino, 
and the mole of Cagliari. The whole of this part is 
edged with a shallow bank that extends some distance 
off; a circumstance that may be in some measure owing 



326 



OF THE COASTS OF SARDINIA. 



to the Zostera marina, with which it is covered; as 
this plant, from its known quality of detaining mud, silt, 
and sand, is very capable of gradually augmenting 
shoals. 

Having thus carried my reader round the shores of 
Sardinia, I have only to add, that the monotony incident 
to the subject precludes much amusement to him who 
wades through this chapter ; to those, however, who want 
geographical or nautical information on the spot, I trust 
it will prove useful. 



APPENDIX. 



4 



No. I 

STATISTICAL TABLE OF SARDINIA. 



Place. 


Diocese. 


People. 


Air. 


Situation. 






869 


n n urn aI p c a yy\ p 
till VV UUlCoUIilC 


ATI 51 TU 511 A 

UH d pidlil 




Amtvn TiflQ 


1900 


PYI"*p11 PTl t 
.A.LvCllCll If 


ati 5i tapVv in Ann t mi n 
\jxx a> x\j\jL\.y iiiullu bdili 


Aidu. Blag'giorG 




853 


1 A H 1 TTPVPTl f" 
111U111C1 CIISj 


An 5i Til 11 

KJXX CL 11111 


Ala 


(JziGri 


RClA 
OU'* 


indifferent 


on a dGclivity 


Ales 


AIgs 


750 


v ci y yj<x\x 


nn o nlnin 
xjxx <x yj Lcxii-xx. 


A 1 0*Tl PVA 


A 1 o'Ti prn 


6700 


f" PTA T^PVJl t" P 

LcillUcl die 


An i~f\ P CflQ cnAT»P 
Ull tilt? oca OllUltJ 


Allai 


\_/l lo LdllU 


^47 


bad 


m ttie Bari^adu 


AnHrpfi S T^riiK 


Cagliari 


565 


t a1pT*5*TVIp 


ATI 51 APpllVli'V 




Ozieri 


329 


OrtlLX UX 1 V/UCt 


in tnp rrAPP5»nA 
111 L11C \TULCdllU 




Tom PCI QC 


LOW 


Ud.il 


on. a plain 


Ant An S 


Origan a 


540 


XX LI 1111 U. 


An 5i "nfif" 

YJXX CL 11 dU 




. Ales 


3025 


wholesome 


on a hill 




. . Ales 


660 


bad 


on a plain 




. Ogliastra 


59 


salubrious 


on a plain 




Ozieri 


166 


good 


plain of Oppia 




. Oristano 


701 


humid 


on a plain 




. Cagliari 


297 


bad 


in the Trexentu 




Oristano 


1848 


excellent 


on a mountain 




Cagliari 


767 


indifferent 


in the Gerrei hills 




Ogliastra 


1656 


salubrious 


on a slope 




Oristano 


439 


bad 


on a plain 


Assemini 


. Cagliari 


1503 


unwholesome 


on a plain 






348 


bad 


on a slope 




. . Oristano 


1084 


temperate 


on a declivity 




. Oristano 


558 


indifferent 


on a slope 




. . Cagliari 


833 


bad 


on a plain in the Meilogu 




. . Sassari 


1055 


indifferent 


on a plain 




. . Ales 


450 


bad 


on a plain 




Ozieri 


189 


good 


on a slope 




Ogliastra 


1678 


unwholesome 


on a plain 




. . Ales 


270 


indifferent 


on a flat 




, . Ales 


340 


indifferent 


in the Marmilla 



330 



STATISTICAL TABLK 



Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Barrali Cagliari 226 bad on a plain 

Barratili Oristano 620 humid on a flat 

Baramini Oristano 1071 bad on a flat 

Basiliu, S Cagliari 1141 wholesome on a hill 

Baulada Oristano 520 bad on a slope 

Baunei Ogliastra 1538 salubrious on a hill 

Belvi Oristano 779 good on a hill 

Benetutti Ozieri 1730 wholesome on a plain 

Berchidda Ozieri 1485 indifferent on a slope 

Bessuda Sassari 2570 bad on a slope 

Biduni Oristano 340 humid on a declivity 

Biroli Alghero 770 healthy Marghine hills 

Birori Alghero 450 good on a hill 

Bitti Galtelli 2490 excellent on an elevated plain 

Bolotana Alghero 2274 good on a hill 

Bonarcadu Cagliari 890 bad on a plain 

Bono Ozieri 2482 good on a hill 

Bonorva Sassari 4000 temperate on a high slope 

Boroneddu Bosa 130 indifferent on a slope 

Borore Alghero 1374 good on a hill 

Borruta Sassari 2347 salubrious on a hill 

Bortigali Alghero 2537 good hills of Marghine 

Bortigiadas Ampurias 1500 excellent on a mountain 

Bosa Bosa 3500 bad in a valley 

Bottidda Ozieri 901 good on a hill 

Budduso Ozieri 2100 wholesome on a slope 

Bulzi Ampurias 462 bad on a plain 

Bultei Ozieri 640 good amongst mountains 

Bunnanoro Sassari 970 healthy on a high flat 

Burcei Cagliari 648 good on a hill 

Burgos Ozieri 442 wholesome Goceano hills 

Burressu Ales 600 bad on a plain 

Busacchi Oristano 1286 indifferent on a slope 

Cabras Oristano 2850 bad on a plain 

Cagliari Cagliari 25887 good on a hill 

Calangianus Ampurias 1220 excellent on a hill 

Calasetta Iglesias 215 very bad on a plain 

Caputerra Cagliari 502 bad on a plain 

Cargieghe Sassari 2400 good on a hill 

Carloforte Iglesias 2830 indifferent on a plain 

Castel Sardo Ampurias 1592 pure on a lava peak 

Cepara Ales 250 bad on a plain 

Chiaramonte Sassari 1696 wholesome on a steep hill 

Cidoni , Oristano 811 indifferent on a slope 

Codrongianus Sassari 1009 excellent on a fine hill 

Connanaru Sassari 2915 indifferent on a plain 



OF SARDINIA. 



Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Cossoine Sassari 1738 good on a hill 

Cuglieri Bosa 3500 excellent on a slope 

Cultee Ozieri 806 good on a hill 

Curcuris Ales 280 bad plain of Useddus 

Decimu Mannu Cagliari 1007 unwholesome on a plain 

Decimu-putzu Cagliari 704 bad on a plain 

Desulu Oristano 1762 good on a hill 

Domus de Maria Cagliari 510 bad on a plain 

Domus-noas Iglesias 903 humid on the Cixerris plain 

Domus-noas canalis.. Bosa 127 indifferent on a flat 

Donnigala Oristano 219 indifferent on a slope 

Donnigalla Cagliari 554 good on a slope 

Donnori Cagliari 629 bad on a plain 

Dorgali Galtelli 3049 wholesome on a hill 

Dualchi Alghero 532 middling on a plain 

Elini Ogliastra 664 good on a slope 

Elnias Cagliari 426 bad on a plain 

Escolea Cagliari 575 humid on a slope 

Escovedu Cagliari 1 70 bad on a plain 

Esporlata. . . . t Ozieri 850 good Goceano hills 

Esterzili Ogliastra 666 good on a hill 

Figu Ales 240 unhealthy foot of a hill 

Florinas Sassari 1711 pure on a hill 

Flumine major Iglesias 1419 humid on a plain 

Flussio' Bosa 350 bad on a plain 

Fonni Galtelli 3006 excellent on a hill 

Fordongianus Oristano 515 bad on a plain 

Form Ales 1100 unwholesome plain of Marmilla 

Furtei Cagliari 850 unhealthy on a flat 

Gadoni Oristano 692 good amongst mountains 

Gairo Ogliastra 886 salubrious on a hill 

Galtelli Galtelli 880 bad on a plain 

Garofai Galtelli 405 good on a hill 

Gavino, S Ales 2300 bad on a plain 

Gavoi Galtelli 1726 wholesome on a declivity 

Genoni Oristano 870 indifferent on a hill 

Gennuri Ales 295 bad on a plain 

Gergei Cagliari 2114 unwholesome plain of Siurgus 

Gesico Cagliari 872 bad on a plain 

Gesturi Oristano 1564 humid in the Marmilla 

Ghilarza Oristano 1833 bad on a plain 

Giave Sassari 1334 good on a hill 

Gioan, S. Massuinas . Iglesias 300 indifferent plain of Sulcis 

Girasol Ogliastra 280 bad on a plain 

Giusta, S Oristano 667 very bad on a plain 

Gonni Cagliari 298 bad in the Siurgus 

Gonnesa Iglesias 566 unwholesome plain of Sixerris 



332 



STATISTICAL TABLE 



Place. 


Diocese. 


People. 


Air. - • . 


Situation. 


Gonnoscodina 


. Ales 


470 


bad 


on a plain 


Gonnos fanadiga 


Ales 


3125 


indifferent 


on a slope 




Ales 


261 


bad 


on a flat 


Gonnos tramazza .... 


Ales 


820 


bad 


on a plain 


Guamaggiore 


Cagliari 


764 


unwholesome 


on a plain 


Guasila 


Cagliari 


1835 


humid 


in the Trexentu 


Guspini 


Ales 


3457 


bad 


on a plain 


Ierzu 


Ogliastra 


1309 


pure 


on a hill 


Iglesias 


Iglesias 


9545 


salubrious 


on a plain 


Ilbono 


Ogliastra 


550 


good 


on a slope 




. Ozieri 


913 


wholesome 


in the Goceano 


Irgoli 


Galtelli 


508 


good 


on a hill 


Isili 


Oristano 


1840 


tolerable 


on a hill 




Ozieri 


369 


temperate 


on a plain 


Ittiri 


Sassari 


2850 


indifferent 


plain of Coros 


Lachesos 


Sassari 


320 


middling 


on a level 


Laconi . . . 


Oristano 


1527 


temperate 


on a slope 


T /f) prrn 


Ampurias 


505 


middling 


ATI 51 nl ft 1 Tl 


Lanusei • 


Ogliastra 


1432 




on a hill 


Las plassas 


Ales 


306 


bad 


in the Marmilla 


Lei 


Algliero 


320 


indifferent 


on a plain 


Loculi 


Galtelli 


890 


unwholesome 


on a plain 




Ogliastra 


547 


bad 


on a slope 




Galtelli 


945 


humid 


on a plain 




Galtelli 


115 


good 


on the Olloai 


Lollove 


Galtelli 


128 


indifferent 


on a declivity 


Lozzorai 


. Ogliastra 


592 


middling 


on a slope 


Lulla 


Galtelli 


794 


good 


on a slope 




. Ales 


783 


bad 


on a plain 




Ampurias 


1135 


pure 


on a hill 




Bosa 


3600 


salubrious 


in a crater 


Macomer 


Alghero 


1300 


good 


among stony cliffs 




Ampurias 


1606 


pure 


on an island 


Magumadas 


. Bosa 


340 


bad 


plain of Planargia 


Mamojada 


. Galtelli 


1774 


excellent 


on a plain 




Cagliari 


2799 


indifferent 


on a slope 


Mara 


Alghero 


383 


bad 


on a plain 


Mara Arborei . 


Cagliari 


300 


indifferent 


on a flat 




. Cagliari 


971 


humid 


on a plain 




. Oristano 


679 


bad 


on a plain 




. Ampurias 


955 


middling 


on a declivity 




Oristano 


349 


very bad 


on a plain 




. Cagliari 


300 


bad 


on a sandy flat 




Ales 


753 


bad 


on a plain 


Meana 


Oristano 


1380 


wholesome 


on a hill 




. Oristano 


1275 


bumid 


on a plain 



OF SARDINIA. 



333 



Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Modulo Bosa 254 middling on a plain 

Mogorella Oristano 442 indifferent on a slope 

Mogoro Ales 2040 bad on a plain 

Monastir Cagliari 1058 unwholesome in the Parte Olla 

Monteleone Alghero 294 temperate on a slope 

Monte Ozieri 540 bad on a plain 

Montresta Bosa 225 good on a slope 

Mores Sassari 1 722 indifferent plain of Oppia 

Morgongiori Ales 736 bad on a plain 

Mulargia Alghero 123 bad in the Marghine 

Mura vera Cagliari 1763 unwholesome plain of Sarrabus 

Muros Sassari 1230 good plain of Figulina 

Musei Iglesias 463 bad on a plain 

Narbolia Oristano 772 indifferent on a plain 

Neoneli Oristano 974 bad plain of Barigadu 

Noragugame Alghero 431 indifferent on a plain 

Norghiddu Oristano 549 indifferent on a slope 

Nuches Ampurias 450 middling on a plain 

Nughedu Ozieri 1843 good on a hill 

Nughedu Oristano 403 indifferent on a slope 

Nule Ozieri 836 good on a slope 

NuM Ampurias 3009 wholesome on a plain 

Nuoro Galtelli 3349 good on an elevated plain 

Nurachi Oristano 260 indifferent plain of Riola 

Nuragus Oristano 869 bad plain of Valenza 

Nuraminis Cagliari 1133 bad on a plain ... 

Nurallau Oristano 721 indifferent on a slope 

Nuraxi-nieddu Oristano 188 unwholesome on a plain 

Nureci Oristano 339 humid on a plain 

Nurri Cagliari 2009 good on a hill 

Ollastra Oristano 170 indifferent on a flat 

Ollastra-Simaxis Oristano 290 bad on a plain 

Ollastra-Usellus Ales 260 bad on a slope 

Oliena .... , Galtelli 2660 excellent on a hill 

Ollolai Galtelli 642 excellent on a summit 

Olmedo Alghero 173 indifferent on a plain 

Olzai Galtelli 1170 good amongst vallies 

Onani Galtelli 250 good on a hill 

Onifai Galtelli 389 bad on a plain 

Onniferi Ozieri 700 salubrious on a slope 

Orani Alghero 1406 indifferent base of a bifurcated hill 

Oristano..... Oristano 4991 very bad on a plain 

Orgosolo Galtelli 2236 pure on a hill 

Orotelli Alghero 1030 good plain of Doris 

Orosei Galtelli 1400 very bad on a plain 

Orroli Cagliari 1356 unwholesome on a slope 



334 STATISTICAL TABLE 

Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Ortacesus Cagliari 431 bad on a plain 

Ortueri Oristano 1270 good on a hill 

Orune Ozieri 1689 salubrious on a plain 

Oschieri Ozieri 2010 bad on a plain 

Ossidda Ozieri 260 indifferent on a plain 

Osilo Sassari 5431 pure on a mountain peak 

Ossini Ogliastra 583 good on a hill 

Ossi Sassari 1635 indifferent plain of Coros 

Ottana Alghero 621 bad on a plain 

Ovodda Oristano 880 unwholesome amongst vallies 

Ozieri Ozieri 7200 good on a beautiful slope 

Pabilonis Ales 890 humid on a flat 

Padria Alghero 1747 good on a hill 

Palmas Oristano 218 bad on a plain 

Palmas Iglesias 700 humid plain of Sulcis 

Pantaleo, S Cagliari 998 tolerable on a declivity 

Pattada Ozieri 3000 good on a hill 

Pau Ales 450 indifferent on a plain 

Pauli-Arborei Ales 300 bad on a plain 

Pauli-Grerrei Cagliari 838 wholesome on a slope 

Pauli-latino Oristano 3087 bad plain of Ozier Reale 

Pauli-Pirri Cagliari 1920 bad on a plain 

Perdus de fogu Ogliastra 640 good on a hill 

Perfugas Ampurias 882 humid on a flat hill 

Pietro-pula, S Cagliari 182 bad on a plain 

Pimentel Cagliari 554 unwholesome plain of Trexentu 

Pirri Cagliari 1250 temperate on a plain 

Ploaghe Sassari 2050 salubrious on a hill 

Pompu Ales 161 bad on a plain 

Portoscus Iglesias 244 very bad on a plain 

Posada Galtelli 440 indifferent on a hill 

Pula Cagliari 898 very bad on a plain 

Puttifigari Alghero 209 indifferent on a plain 

Puzzu-maior Alghero 1925 good on a hill 

Quartu Cagliari 5129 indifferent on a plain 

Quartuccio Cagliari 1719 middling on a plain 

Queremula Sassari 1886 salubrious on a hill 

Rebeccu Sassari 240 indifferent on a slope 

Regia Tanca Bosa 700 temperate on a vast plain 

Riola Oristano 740 unwholesome on a plain 

Romana , Alghero 519 indifferent on a plain 

Ruinas Oristano 509 bad plain of Valenza 

Sadali Ogliastra 690 good on a hill 

Sagama Bosa 470 bad on a plain 

Samassi Cagliari 1783 unwholesome on a plain 

Samatzai Cagliari 1007 bad on a plain 



OF SARDINIA. 



335 



Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Samtigheu Oristano 1560 salubrious on a hill 

San Rocco Cagliari COO humid on a slope 

Sardara Ales 2000 bad on a plain 

Sarrore Cagliari 658 bad on a plain 

Sarrulle Alghero 1600 good on a hill 

Sassari Sassari 20175 wholesome plain of Fluminaria 

Scalaplanu Ogliastra 1520 indifferent on a plain 

Scanu Bosa 370 middling on a slope 

Schui Ogliastra 1698 good on a hill 

Seddori, or S. Luri Cagliari 3180 indifferent on the Campidano 

Sedilo Bosa 2000 good on a slope 

Sedini Ampurias 930 indifferent on a plain 

Segariu Cagliari 592 humid plain of Nuraminis 

Selargius Cagliari 2287 bad on a plain 

Selegas Cagliari 740 bad on a plain 

Semestene Alghero 508 indifferent plain of Costaval 

Seneghe Oristano 1846 good » on a hill 

Senis Oristano 613 indifferent on a slope 

Sennori Sassari 1620 tolerable hills of Romandia 

Senorbi Cagliari 1063 bad on a plain 

Serdiana Cagliari 732 unwholesome on a plain 

Serramannu ,. Cagliari 1823 very bad plain of Ippis 

Serrenti Cagliari 1515 bad plain of Nuraminis 

Serri Cagliari 452 wholesome on a hill 

Sestu Cagliari 1181 bad on a plain 

Settimu Cagliari 1340 bad on a plain 

Setzu Ales 230 temperate on a plain 

Sevi Ogliastra 370 good on a hill 

Seulu Ogliastra 776 excellent on a hill 

Seuni Cagliari 199 indifferent on a flat 

Sia-maggiore Oristano 591 bad on a plain 

Sia-manna Oristano 710 unwholesome on a plain 

Sianu Bosa 1340 temperate on a slope 

Sia-pittia Oristano 212 bad on a plain 

Siddi Ales 430 unwholesome on a plain 

Sicci Cagliari 510 bad plain of Parte Olla 

Silanus Alghero 1502 bad in the Marghine 

Silli Oristano 570 very bad on a plain 

Siligu Sassari 2642 indifferent on a slope 

Siliqua Cagliari 1446 humid foot of a hill 

Silius Cagliari 577 temperate on a hill 

Simala Ales 500 bad on a plain 

Simaxis Oristano 516 very bad on a plain 

Sindia Bosa 1081 indifferent on a hill 

Sineriolo .. Bosa 266 middling slope of Mte. Femi 

Sini Ales 430 unwholesome on a plain 



336 STATISTICAL TABLE 

Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Siniscola Galtelli 2400 bad plain of Posada 

Sinnai Cagliari 2622 temperate on a plain 

Siris Ales 150 bad on a plain 

Sisini Cagliari 295 indifferent on a plain 

Siurgus Cagliari 800 tolerable on a flat 

Soddi e Zuni Bosa 331 indifferent on a plain 

Solanas Oristano 187 very bad on the Campidano 

Solarussa Oristano 1641 unhealthy on a plain 

Soleminis Cagliari 334 bad plain of Parte Oil a 

Sorgono Oristano 1188 excellent on a hill 

Sorrudili Oristano 851 good on a hilly slope 

Sorso Sassari 4000 indifferent in a valley 

Sperato, S Cagliari 1312 bad on a plain 

Sporlatu Ozieri 242 good on a slope 

Suelli Cagliari 820 tolerable on a declivity 

Suni Bosa 713 bad plain of Planargia 

Tadasuni Bosa 500 indifferent on a plain 

Talana Ogliastra 304 temperate on a declivity 

Tempio Ampurias 5827 excellent on an alpine plain 

Teresa, S Ampurias 517 good on a headland 

Terralba Ales 2500 very bad on a plain 

Terranova Ampurias 1474 very bad on a plain 

Tertenia Ogliastra 1150 humid on a slope 

Teti Oristano 283 good on a hill 

Teulada Iglesias 2339 unwholesome in a vale 

Tiana Oristano 490 good on a hill 

Tiezi Sassari 2270 indifferent plain of Cabu Abbas 

Tinnura Bosa 130 bad on a plain 

Tissi Sassari 2886 indifferent on a slope 

Tonara Oristano 2242 pure on a hill 

Torralba Sassari 1930 middling plain of Meilogu 

Torpe Galtelli 804 bad on a plain 

Tortoli Ogliastra 1498 very bad on a fertile plain 

Tramazza Oristano 506 bad on a plain 

Tres Nuraghes Bosa 1324 indifferent plain of Planargia 

Triei , Ogliastra 260 middling on a slope 

Tuili Ales 990 unwholesome on a slope 

Tula Ozieri 720 very bad on a plain 

Turri Ales 404 bad on a plain 

Valverde Alghero 40 middling in a valley 

Vero-congiu, S Oristano 73 indifferent on a plain 

Vero-milis, S Oristano 1556 bad on a plain 

Villa-cidro Ales 5571 pure on a hill 

Villa Ermosa Cagliari 628 bad on a neglected plain 

Villa-grande, Strisaili Ogliastra 900 excellent on a mount 

Villa-Greca Cagliari 255 bad plain of Nuraminis 



OF SARDINIA. 



337 



Place. Diocese. People. Air. Situation. 

Villa-mar Cagliari 1629 unhealthy on a plain 

Villa-Massargia Iglesias 2850 bad on a plain 

Villa-nova Form . . . Ales 390 indifferent in the Marmilla 

Villa-nova Franca . . . Ales 560 humid on a flat 

Villa-nova Franca .. Oristano 1130 bad on a plain 

Villa-nova Mte. Leone Alghero 3452 tolerable on a plain 

Villa-nova S. Antonio Oristano 398 indifferent on a slope 

Villa-nova Strisaili... Ogliastra 420 pure on a mount 

Villa-nova-truschedre Oristano 293 bad on a slope 

Villa-nova Tulo Cagliari 514 salubrious on a hill 

Villa-putzu Ogliastra 2162 bad on a plain 

Villarios Iglesias 600 unwholesome plain of Sulcis 

Villa Saltu Cagliari 1537 good on a hill 

Villa-Sor Cagliari 1588 very bad on a plain 

Villa-Speciosa Cagliari 398 bad on the Campidano 

Villa Urbana Oristano 702 bad on a plain 

Vito, S. Cagliari 2278 unwholesome on a plain 

Vittoria, S Sassari 600 tolerable in a valley 

Ula Oristano 700 indifferent on a slope 

Ulassai Ogliastra 981 good on a plain 

Uniferi Alghero 193 unhealthy on a plain 

Uras Ales 2600 bad on a declivity 

Uri Alghero 1039 indifferent on a slope 

Urzulei Ogliastra 441 temperate on a slope 

Ussassai Ogliastra 404 salubrious on a hill 

Ussini Sassari 1420 indifferent on a slope 

Usellus Ales 531 middling on a slope 

Ussana Cagliari 1190 bad on a plain 

Ussana-manna Ales 575 unwholesome on a plain 

Uta Cagliari 1214 bad on the Campidano 

Zeddiani Oristano 410 bad on a plain 

Zepara.. Ales 340 unwholesome on a flat 

Zerfaliu Oristano 212 good on a slope 

Zuri Bosa 230 bad on a flat. 



Z 



338 



ICHTHYOLOGICAL TABLE 



No. II. 



ICHTHYOLOGICAL TABLE 

OF 

THE FISH THAT FREQUENT THE COASTS OF SARDINIA. 



Latin. 


Sardinian. 


English. 


Ammodytes Tobianus 


Aguglia 


Sand launce 


Anarhichus lupus 


Pisci lupu 


Sea wolf 


Argentina sphyraena 


Segretu 


fepitnsn 


Atherinus liepsetus 


Laterina 


Atberine 


menidia 


Trotischeddu 


Grey Atberine 


Balistes scolopax 




File fish 




Sordu 


Uid. wire 


Blennius galerita 


Baosa 


Crested blenny 


1 gattorugine 


Pisci a letta 


Red blenny 


— ocellaris 




Sea butterfly 


■ pholis 


Missuru 


Smooth blenny 


phycis 


Mollio 


Sea Tench 


Cancer astacus 


Gammeru di sciumu 


Craw fish 


gammarus marinus 


Gammeru di mari 


Lobster 


Callionymus lyra 


Ragnu 


Gemmeous dragonet 


Centriscus scolopax 


Rangada 


Bellows or Trumpet fish 


Cepola rubescens 


Segnu di Salomone 


Red-banded fish 


tenia 


Bannera 


Riband fish 


Clupea alosa 


Saboga 


Shad 


encrasicolus 


Alici, or Azzua 


Anchovy 


sprattus 


Sardella, or Sardina 


Sprat 


Coryphcena hippurus 


Definu 


Coryphene 


i novacula 


Pisci pettinu 


Razor fish 


pompilus 


Pompillu 


Striped coryphene 


Cottus gobio 


Grossa testa 


Bullhead 


scorpius 


Pisci capone 


Father lasher, or sea scorpion 


Cyprinus barbus 


Donzella 


Barbel 


brama 


Mutzula 


Bream 


gobio 


Laccia 


Gudgeon 



OF SARDINIA. 



Latin. 


Sardinian. 


.English. 


Cyprinus jeses 


Albus 


Jantling, or blue chub 


leuciscus 


Albula 


Dace 


rutilus 


Cheppia 


Roach 


Diodon orbicularis 


Pisci tundu 


Round diodon 


Esox belone 


Luzzu 


Gar fish, or sea needle 


sphyraena 


Luzzaru 


Sea pike 


Exocaetus exiliens 


Muggine volante 


Swallow fish 


volitans 


Saltatore 


Winged flying-fish 


Gadus asellus 


Merluzzu 


Hake, or onos of the Greeks 


carbonareus 


Ciaula 


Coal fish 


lota 


Concunieddu 


Burbot 


Mediterraneus 


Sazzaluga de mare 


Mediterranean cod 


minutus 


Merluzzeddu 


Capelin 


mustela 


Mustia 


Five-bearded cod 


Gasterosteus aculeatus 


Maccionu 


Three-spined stickleback 


Gobius aphya 


Teurrazza 


Sea gudgeon 


niger 


Mazzone 


Black goby, or Rock fish 


paganellus 


Gorgionu 




Gymnotus acus 


Aguglia 


Needle gymnote 


Labrus anthias 


Zigarella 


Holy basse 


guttatus 


Cazzu de Rei 


Speckled basse 


julis 


Marabut 


Rainbow fish 


marmoratus 


Griva 


Mottled labrus 


merula 


Menduledda 


Black labrus 


pavo 


Arrocali 


Peacock labrus 


turdus 


Turdu 


Sea tench, or wrasse 


Lopbius Europeus 


Rannu 


Toad fish 


piscatorius 


Piscadrixi 


Angler, or sea devil 


Mugil albula 


Lioni 


Silvery white mullet 


cephalus 


Muzzulu 


Grey mullet 


Mullus barbatus 


Triglia 


Red surmullet 


— imberbis 


Ozzone 


Beardless surmullet 


surmuletus 


Mangiadori 


Striped surmullet 


Muraena anguilla 


Ambiddu 


Common eel 


catenata 


Pisci ficu 


Chain-striped muraena 


caeca 


Murena femina 


Blind eel 


conger 


Grongu 


Conger eel 


Helena 


Murena Era 


Roman Muraena 


maculata 


Ambiddu dimari 


Spotted eel 


myrus 


Smiru 


Sea snake 


Mustelus laevis 


Musola 




Ophidium barbatum 


Lissa 


Bearded ophidion 


imberbis 


Coloru de mari 


Beardless ophidion 


Ostracion bystrix 


Rizza 


Trunk fish, or porcupine 


mola 


Papa Tondo 


Large Sun fish 


Perca cernua 


Gernia 


Ruffe 



Z 2 



340 



ICHTHYOLOGICAL TABLE 



Latin. 




English . 


Perca fluviatilis 


Ragnu vuraci 


Common perch 


labrax 


Lupu 


Basse 


Mediterraneus 


Barchetta 


Mediterranean perch 


punctata 


Tumula 


Thorny perch 


pusilla 


Conaditu 


Dwarf perch 


scriba 


Mulassu 


Learned perch 


Petromyzon marinus 


Papa pixi 


Lamprey 


Pleuronectes limanda 


Palaja de arena 


Dab 


. maximus 


Imperiali 


Turbot 


platessa 




Plaise 


rombus 


Rumbulu 


Pearl fish 


solea 


Palaja 


Sole 


Raia batis 


Cappuccina 


Skate 


clavata 


Ziriula 


Thornback 


la vis 


Lissi 


Slippery ray 


miraletus 


Occhiateddu 


Mirror ray 


oxyrinchus 


Farassa 


Sharp-nosed ray 


pastinaca 


Pastinagu 


Sting ray 


rubus 


Rovo 


Rough ray 


torpedo 


Tremulosa 


Torpedo, or electric ray 


Salmo eperlanus 


Sazzaluga 


Smelt 


fario 


Trota comune 


Trout 


saurus 


Tiligugu marinu 


Sea lizard 


thvmallus 


Tarantula 


Grayling salmon 


trutta 


Trota 


Salmon trout 


Sciena cirrosa 




Hairy sea-hog 


— umbra 


Ombrina 


Sea crow 


Scomber aculeatis 


Serviola 


Cross spine 


alalunga 


Alalongu 


Alalonga 


colias 


Puntazzu 


Bastard tunny 


_ ductor 


Capitanu 


Pilot-fish 


■ glaucus 


Cavaglia 


Sea-green mackarel 


pelamis 


Palamida 


Bonito 


scomber 


Pisara 


Mackarel 


thynnus 


Tonnu 


Tunny 


trachurus 


Sureddu 


Horse mackarel 


Scorpsena porcus 


Scorpina 


Porcine scorpaena 


pristis 


.Lumbrina 


Sea scorpion 


scropba 


Scrofanu 


Sow scorpion 


scorpius 


Scropula 


Father lasher 


Sepia loliga 


Calamaru 


Ink fish 


octapus 


Ottopedia 


Eight-armed cuttle 


officinalis 


Siccia 


Cuttle fish 


Silurus glanis 


Glannu 


Great silurus 


electricus 


Babbaura 


Electrical sheath fish 


Sparus annularns 


Sparedda 





OF SARDINIA. 



341 



Latin. 


Sardinian. 


English. 


Spams auratus 


Canina 


Lunated gilt-bead 


boops 


Boga 




cantharus 


Zerra 


Brown bull-fisb 


dentex 


Dentixi 


Sea rougb 


erytlirinus 


Fravolina 


Rotchet 


melanurus 


Puntazzu 


Black-tailed sparus 


mcena 


Ciuccara 


Cockerel 


mormyrus 


Murmungiuni 




pagrus 


Pagaxu 


Sea-bream, or red gilt-bead 


salpa 


Sarpa 


Stock fisb 


sargus 


Murruda 


Egyptian sparus 


saxatilis 


Orbada 


Black rock -fisb 


smaris 


Zarettu 




Squalus acantliias 


Lamia 


Picked dog-fisb 


canicular 


Pisci cani 


Cott fisb, or spotted dog-fisb 


carcharias 


Canuzzu 


"White sbark 


catullus 


Gattu di mari 


Hound, or lesser spotted dog-fisb 


centrina 


Pisci-porcu 




=. galeus 


Noccivolo 


Tope 


. glaucus 


Cagnolu 


Blue sbark 


. mustelus 


Mussola 


Smootb bound-fish 


squatina 


Squadru 


Monk, or angel-fish 


stellaris 


Gattu di scoglio 


Spotted sbark 


tiburio 


Gattuzzu 


Heart-headed shark 


zygcena 


Martellu 


Hammer-headed sbark 


Syngnathus typble 


Pisci tialu 


Shorter pipe-fish 


bippocampus Cuaddu de mari 


Sea horse 


Tetrodon bispidus 


Luna di mari 


Sea globe 


mola 


Pisci Mola 


Sun fish 


Tracbinus draco 


Aragna 


Sea dragon 


Trigla catapbracta 


Pisci corrudu 


Sea rocket, or red gurnard 


— — cuculus 


Fasanu 


Red cuckow gurnard 


gurnardus 


Gurnu 


Grey gurnard 


lyra 


Organu 


Piper 


■ milvus 


Roiidina 


Kite gurnard 


volitans 


Pisci boladori 


Flying gurnard 


Uranoscopus scaber 


Papa cucculo 


Bearded star-gazer 


Xipbias gladius 


Pisci spada 


Sword fish 


Zeus faber 


Pisci di S. Pedru 


John-dory. 



342 



MARKET PRICES 



No. III. 

MARKET PRICES OF VARIOUS ARTICLES IN CAGLIARI, 

ACCORDING TO AN AVERAGE DEDUCED FROM CORRECT 
LISTS OF THE TEN YEARS ENDING IN 1824. 

The Weights, Measures, and Coin are Sardinian. 



MEAT. 

Li. Sol. Den. 

Beef - per lb. 2 

Veal 2 

Mutton 1 10 

Pork 2 6 

Mufflon, scarce 2 

Venison .2 

Ham '.. 10 

Suppressada 9 

Bacon 3 6 

Lard 4 6 

POULTRY. 

Fowls per dozen 5 5 

Eggs 5 

Pigeons per pair 10 

Turkeys, very scarce each. 4 

Geese, ditto each 2 

Ducks, tame, ditto each 15 

GAME. 

Ducks, wild per pair 15 

Quails 4 in a bunch 12 6 

Partridges per pair 12 6 

"Woodcocks each 10 6 

Small birds 4 in a bunch 2 6 

FISH. 

Tunny, fresh per lb. 4 

Ditto, salted 4 

Different sorts 3 

Crawfish and Lobster 3 



WHEAT. 

Li. Sol. Den. 

Wheat, per starelloof Cagliari 17 

Bread per 10 ozs. 10 

Biscuit, best per Cantar 8 5 

Ditto, common 7 

Maccaroni per lb. 2 6 

FRUIT. 

Water-melon per lb. 1 

Musk-melon 16 

Grapes...., 3 

Apples and Pears 1 6 

Oranges per dozen 5 

Lemons 4 

Peaches 3 6 

Apricots 1 6 

Cherries .per lb. 1 

Prickly Pears, from 12 to 72 1 

Walnuts, per imbuto about 141b. 4 

Chestnuts „ 61b. 4 

Almonds „ 5lb. 5 6 

Hazel-nuts „ 51b. 6 6 

Olives „ 61b. 4 

VEGETABLES. 

Potatoes per lb. 10 

Pease, per starello, about 90lb. 5 10 
Lentils „ 861b. 5 10 
Dry beans „ 85lb. 2 10 
Calavanses, per starello, 95lbs. 5 10 
French beans, per 161bs 1 



IN CAGLIARI. 



Li. Sol. Den. 

Onions, green, per bundle of 

5 lbs 1 

Ditto, dry, per 100 onions 15 

Garlic, green, per 9 heads 10 

Ditto, dry, in strings of 24 heads 2 6 
Cardoons, per bundle of 5 lbs. 1 6 
Asparagus, wild, 8 to 12 bun- 



dles of 1 doz. each 1 

Artichokes, ltol2 1 

Cabbages, per head, 3 to 6 lbs. 16 

Brocoli per bundle 3 or 4 1 

Cauliflowers, per head, 4 to 6 

lbs. 1 6 

Cucuzzi, according to size 1 6 

Turnip cabbage, per bundle, 3 

to 6 lbs 1 

Carrots, ditto, 5 or 6 1 

Tomatuses, from 4 to 72 1 

Spinach, per bundle, 2 or 3 lbs. 1 

Celery, 3 to 6 1 

WINES. 

Common, per quartana 10 

Muscato, ditto 3 5 



343 



Li. Sol. Den. 





10 







5 





Oil, per quartana, about lOlbs. 2 


10 





Milk, per quart 


2 







10 


6 




3 


6 



SPICES. 



Pepper, in grain . . . 


per lb. 


8 










11 





Cinnamon 


5 


10 





Cloves 


3 


10 







5 


15 





Allspice 


2 


15 





Ginger 





15 





Mustard seed 





6 






GROCERIES. 

Sugar per lb. 6 

Coffee 14 

Tea, green 3 15 

Ditto, black 2 15 



Salt, per salm, free on board... 2 10 



344 



MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES 



No. IV 

THE 

MONEY, WEIGHTS, AND MEASURES OF SARDINIA. 



WEIGHTS. 

Farm Produce and the coarser Metals are weighed by the " Pesi di Ferro," as 

follow : — 

Avoirdupois, 
cwt. ibs. oz. dr. 

16 Sediceni, T 12 Ounces are 1 lb. equal to... 14 5 

Decimisesti, 26 lbs 1 Rubbo 23 4 2 

or Argenti, or > 1 Ounce. 4 Rubbi 1 Cantar 93 8 

SOttave, or 10 Cantars ... 1 Colpo 8 34 5 

4 Quarti, J 

In Sassari, 4 Rubbi make the small Cantar, and 6 the large one. 
The Cantar, without tare, is 100 lbs. The Cantar of Cheese is 116, on which the 
duty and fees of the Scrivano and Royal weigher, amount to 12i. 

100 lbs. Avoirdupois used to be reckoned equal to Sard lbs. 114*29 

but according to the later comparison adopted above 111*79 

MONEY. 
2 Denari are ... 1 Cagliarese * | 

6 Cagliaresi 1 Soldo J £ 

5 Soldi 1 Reale ^ -g| 

20 Soldi 1 Lira (( 

10 Reali 1 Scudo 

5 Lire 5 soldi ... 1 Doppietta l ^ 
26 Lire 5 soldi ... 1 Carlino ...Jo 
13 Lire 15 soldi.. 1 English guinez 

There is also a new livre of 10 soldi 5 denari. The old livre is a nominal coin. 
The paper money consists of notes for 5, 10, and 20 scudi. 

LINEAR MEASURE. 
The Palm, equal to English In. 10^, is divided into 2, 4, 8, 16, and 21 parts. 

8 Palmi are 1 Village Canna, or English In 82f 

10 ditto 1 Sassari ditto 103£ 

12 ditto 1 Trabucco, or ditto 124 



Mil 
> .... J 



Sterling 






Currency. 




Weight. 


£ s. d. 






4| 




.A o 

C C 


1 6 


1 


O O 


3 9 . 


.. 8 


10 


8 


.. 2 


12 4 


2 . 


.. 12 


12 20 




6 


12 



OF SARDINIA. 



345 



WINE MEASURE. 

The Cagliarese is a small retail measure, varying inversely with the price. 

The Pinta, equal to 2| Pints Eng. Wine Measure, is divided into 2 Mezzette. 

Gals. Qts. Pts. 

5 Pinte are 1 Quartiere equal to 1 1 Of 

2 Quartieri 1 Brocca 2 2 1| 

100 ditto 1 Botte 132 3 01 

OIL MEASURE. 

There are 2 small retail measures, of 1 Cagliarese, and of 3, varying inversely with 

the price. 

Gals. Qts. Pts. 

2 Misure are 1 Quartuccio, equal to .... 0*7 

12 Quartucci 1 Quartana 1 0*8 

4 Quartane 1 Giarra 4 1 1'5 

2 Giarri 1 Barrel ..... 8 3 1 

34 Alghero measures 1 ditto 

SALT MEASURE AND WEIGHT. 
1 Salm, or 1400 lbs. Sard, are equal to 32 Bushels. 2 Salms are 1 Ton. 



CORN MEASURE. 

The measures of Cagliari are synonymous with those of Sassari, but contain double 

the quantity. 

CAGLIARI. SASSARI. Solid inches. Bush. P. G. Pts. 

2 Imbuti are 1 Quarto = 4 Imbuti, or 1 Corbula = 750 = 1 6 

2 Quarti 1 Quarta = 2 Corbule, or 1 Starello = 1500 = 2 1 4 

2 Quarte, 1 Moggio, or Starello = 3001 = 1 1 1 1 

3| Starelli .'. = 7 Starelli, or 1 Rasiere = 10505 = 4 3 3 



LAND MEASURE. 

Proportion of moderately good Land requisite for the following quantities of Seed, 
and number of Vines and Olive-trees. 







Acres. 


R. 


p. 


Yds. 




. Palms 450 


= 3 


1 


31 


211 


Starello, or Moggio of Cagliari.. 


240 


= 


3 


27 


19 




170 


= 


1 


38 


241 




120 


= 





39 


6* 




60 


= 





9 


251 


1000 Vines, 5 palms apart 


158 


= 




28 


54- 




1266 


= 27 


1 


11 


14* 



INDEX. 



Abbess, miraculous election of an, 201 
Acqua Cotta, mineral spring of the, 77 
Agrarian and Economical Society, 87 
Agriculture, 92 to 97, and 127 
Albo, Mount, its height and character, 
233 

Alghero, its history and description, 281 
Ambrosio of Tempio, an assassin, 147 
Anchovies, their numbers decreasing, 
122 

Anjou, duke of, treats with Hugo, 35 
Antioco, St., island of, taken by the 

French, 54 
Antioco, St., island of, history of, 314 

to 318 
Antro di Nettuno, 277 
Arborea feudatory to Pisa, 23 
Arcuentu, Mount, 301 
Aristaeus, founder of Caralis, 2 
Arsequena, its festival, 188 
Arsicorus heads the rebels, 1 1 
Asinara, the ancient Herculis Insula, 

272 

Assilo, an insect that torments the 

tunny, 122 
Atius Balbus, praetor, 15 
Atmosphere of the island, 81 
Banditti, or outlaws, 142 and 145 
Barancelli, a kind of watchmen, 89, 91, 

148, 159 

Barbargia, its fierce inhabitants, 13 
Barbaricini, their etymology, 20 
Barcelona abandoned by England, 49 
Barilla, orders concerning it, 118 
Barisona, judge of Arborea, 24 



Barometrical mean, 79 
Becco, jaspers at II, 313 
Beds not universal, 165 
Bertula isles, 292 
Board of Health established, 53 
Boi, outlaw on Monte Stuni, 145 
Bonaria, its miraculous virgins, 219 
Bosa, its history and description, 286 
Bostar, killed by the rebels, 9 
Botarga, how prepared, 297 
Brandy, indifferent, 118 
Bridge, ancient Roman, 265 
Buccina, islet of, 235 
Buonaparte, his first service, 58 
Cabras, 296 

Cagliari, its history and description, 205 
Caius Gracchus, his defence, 14 
Cala Sapone, 315 
CalaSeta, 314 

Camarassa, the viceroy, shot, 45 
Campidani, their nature, 67 
Candlemas, the procession of, 180 
Caralis, town of, 2, 3, 9 
Carbunculo, like the Yanar, 236 
Carloforte, 308 
Carta de Logu, 37, 132 
Carthaginians, 3, 8 

Carts, their identity with the ancient, 93 
Casteddo Crastu, 317 
Castel Sardo, the ancient Tibula, 260 
Catherine of Russia treats for Sardinia, 
53 

Caterina, Sta., di Pittinuri, 291 
Cattle, how divided and denominated, 
97 



348 



INDEX. 



Cedrino, or Caedris of Ptolemy, 232 
Charles V. visits Sardinia, 41 
Charles of Anjou treats with Hugo, 35 
Cheese, its quantity and quality, 1 12 
Clergy, number of the, 139 
Coguinas river, 259 
Columbarium of Ptolemy, 243 
Commerce neglected by the Sards, 107 
Confidence in English honour, 48 
Conjuration believed in, 199 
Connexion between the reigning family 

of Sardinia and our own, 64 
Coral fisheries where situated, 124 
Corsica and Sardinia once probably 

united, 68 
Coscia di Donna islet, 292 
Costume, 160 to 164 
Courts of Law, 138 
Cruelty of the Sards in Friesland, 43 
Cuglieri, 290 
Diet, 171 to 175 
Diseases, the prevalent, 166 
Divisions of the island, 129 
Doria, Andrea, invades the island, 39 
Ecclesiastical revenues, 140 
Emsius, St., patron of Cagliari, 55, 181 
Eleanor joined by great part of the 

Sards, 36 
Elephantaria of the Itinerary, 258 
Enzio defeats the Genoese fleet, 26 
Erebantium Promontorium, 257 
Executions, various kinds of, 136, 137 
Famine of 1540, 41 
Females, their condition, 169, 170 
Feudalism in full activity, 130 
Feudal tenure of lands, 85 
Feudal system, its defects, 41 
Field-sports described, 177 
Finger of Oristano, 302 
Fisheries of Sardinia, 121 
Fishing described, 178 
Fish, scarce in the markets, 124 
Flamingo, numbers of, 221 
Forests, the principal, where situated, 

101 

Forum Trajani, its vestiges and springs, 
79 



Fossa Fretum, or straits of Bonifacio, 245 
Frederic gives Sardinia to Pisa, 25 
Fruits, 103 

Funerals, how conducted, 195 
Fungus Militensis found near Cagliari, 
222 

Galena is exported, 118 
Gallura feudatory to Pisa, 23 
Gallura, mountainous district of, 245, 
256 

Game, various kinds enumerated, 120 
Gavino, St., his festival, 183 
Gavino, St., his history, 264 
Geographical position of the island, 65 
Genoese defeat the Pisans at sea, 27 
Gelimer sent to Constantinople, 19 
Genseric recovers Sardinia, 18 
Giant's tower, 322 
Giovanni, San, di Sinis, 298 
Giovanni, San, the Grotto of, 304 
Goda usurps Sardinia, 19 
Gorditanum Promontorium, 272 
Gracchus quells the rebels, 13 
Greeks, their colonies, 3 
Grottoes around Cagliari, 217 
Harcourt lands at Oristano, 43 
Heresy unknown in the island, 139 
Hides, numbers exported, 119 
Hiostus killed in battle, 12 
Horses, various breeds, 98 
Horse-races, 176 

Houses, their plan and materials, 164 
Hugo murdered by his subjects, 35 
Hunting the Wild Boar, 177 
Iglesias, siege of, 31 
Iglesias, its history and description, 
302-4 

Index librorum prohibitorum, 154 
Inquisition established, 39 
Insalubrity, cause of, 82 
Insulae Fossae, or Intermediate, 245 
Intemperie, 82-84 
Intermediate Islands, 245 
Invasion of the French, 53 
Iolaus received the Trojans, 3 
Iron mines, 72 
Isola Rossa, 321 



INDEX. 



349 



Iuliola of Ptolemy, its probable site, 260 

Jamaica, Marquis of, cedes Cagliari, 47 

Jews exiled to Sardinia, 16 

Jews expelled by Ferdinand, 39 

Judge, title of, note, 24 

Lakes of Cagliari, 221 

Language and its various dialects, 149 

Latin, a portion of it retained, 149 

Launedda described, 192 

Lawyers, 137 

Lead and other mines, 72 

Leake, Sir John, takes Cagliari, 47 

Lede, Marquis de, invades the island, 50 

Le Rouge, erroneous map, 257, 272, 305 

Lesa, probably Ales, 227 

Lichens, valuable in commerce, 117 

Linseed, quantity exported, 114 

Literature, 149-159 

Local jealousies, 168 

Locks made of wood, 300 

Locusts, swarms of from Africa, 44 

Locusts excommunicated, 203 

Logudoro, its etymology, 71 

Longonas, the ancient Plubium, 256 

Longo Sardo tower, 255 
Lucocisterna, battle of, 32 
Luri, St., battle of, 38 

Lussorio, St., his history, 187 

Macchie, their nature, 67 

Maddalena, attack of, 57 

Maddalena, its, history and description, 
246-248 

Maize or Indian corn, 109 

Majoli, meaning of the term, 151-158 

Mai di ventre, 292 

Malviventi or outlaws, 142 

Marcellinus conquers Sardinia, 17 

Massacre of the Pisans, 31 

Meloria, action off, 28 

Milis, vale of, 296 

Mineral riches of Sardinia, 71 

Mineral springs, 77-79 

Mines, 71 

Monks, their orders and number, 140 
Monte Ferru, 290 
Monti Nummarii established, 52 
Monti Frumentarii, 52, 87 
Moorish descent in 1798, 309 



Moorish descent in 1815, 316 
Mortorii islets, 244 
Mountains of Sardinia, 66 
Mufflon, the Greek ophion, 120 
Mulberry trees neglected, 102 
Musat takes Cagliari, 21 
Museum of Cagliari, 215 
Napoleon, his first service, 58 
National character, 141 
Nautili, their great abundance, 272 
Neapolis, site of, 298 
Nobility, their privileges, 131 
Nora, vestiges of, 324 
Norax, founder of Nora, 2-4 
Norris, Sir John, at Cagliari, 48 
Nuraggis, description and antiquity of, 
4-7, 290, 320 

Nurachi Lake, 292 

Nura mountains, their geology, 271 

Nymphseus portus, 274 

Ogliastra district, 230 

Ogliastra islets, 229 

Oil, the quantity increasing, 111 

Olbia, vestiges of, 242 

Olive trees, their cultivation, 111 

Olivesi entraps the murderers of Cama- 
rassa, 46 

Ordinances, how proclaimed, 135 

Oristano, Insurrection at, 35 

Oristano and Groceano sold by Spain, 39 

Oristano, description of, 293-299 

Orosei, bight and town of, 231 

Orri, fine grounds of, 325 

Oxen, mischievous ones marked, 94 

Padria, ruins of, 1 1 

Palmasbay, 318 

Pantheon, its columns where obtained, 
257 

Peasants, their political ignorance, 135 
Pelican, numbers of the, 221 
Pelicordina, a dance so called, 188 
Pes of Bonorva murdered., 144 
Peter comes to Sardinia, 34 
Phorcus an early settler, 2 
Piana islet, 312 

Pietro, island of St., 54, 307-313 
Pietro, Don, the outlaw of Mte. Sassu, 
146 



350 



INDEX. 



Pigeons of St. Antioco, 316 
Pinna nobilis, its pearls and byssus, 125 
Pisans league against Barisona, 24 
Pittinuri, 291 

Pitzolu, tbe Chevalier, killed by the 

rebels, 61 
Plague of 1528, 41 
Plague in 1652, 44 
Plains, the most extensive, 67 
Planargia, Marquis of, shot by the rebels, 

61 

Plough resembling the aratrum, 95 

Poetry, language and literature, 149-1 59 

Pope, the, gives away Sardinia, 22 

Population of the island, 127 

Porto Botte, the ancient Debotes, 320 

Porto Conte, description of, 276 

Portus Herculis, 322 

Porto Paglia, 302 

Porto Pino, 320 

Porto Scus, 306 

Porto Torres, its ancient vestiges, 264 
Posada, town of, 234 
Post Office established, 53 
Proportion of cultivated land, 67 
Protomedicato, or medical board, 165 
Pula, vale of, ruins at, 323-324 
Pulse, quantity exported, 109 
Punic coins, 311 

Punic war, cause of the second, 10 
Putzu, a family of murderers, 238 
Puzone de Stu. Martina, a bird, 287 
Quartu, description of, 223 
Rags form one of the exports, 118 
Ranks in society, 162 
Rebellion of the Sards, 60 
Regent, or great Chancellor, 129 
Remedies, simple, 167 
Reptiles, exemption from, 179 
Revenues, direct and indirect, 126 
Roads, ancient and modern, 91-92 
Rome, her perfidy, 1 
Saffron one of the exports, 118 
Salt, quantity made annually, 113 
Sanctuary, privilege of, lately abolished, 
148 

Saracens ravage Cagliari in 720, 21 



Sardara, its mineral waters, 78 

Sardinia swears fealty to the Pope, 26 

Sardinia restored to Charles, 11, 48 

Sardines becoming scarce, 122 

Sardonic laugh, how produced, 104 

" Sardi venales" explained, 13 

Sard honour, peculiarities of, 144 

Sards revolt against Carthage, 8 

Sassari, its history and description, 266 

Scaccatos, murder of the, 239 

Scala di Griocche near Sassari, 270 

Scanu, the forest of, 288 

Scott, or St. Serapis, 269 

Secca de' Marmi, 306 

Segno, a certain number of cattle, 97 

Sepulchre of Fatilia Pomptilla, 215 

Serpentaria islets, 225 

Sette Fratelli, Mountains of, 225 

Silver mines, 72 

Similarity of Sards and Greeks, 193 
Siniscola, village of, 233 
Snuff, various kinds prepared, 114 
Solifuga, description of the, 74, 179 
Sperone, prison of, at Alghero, 283 
Spindulu, a water-fall, 301 
Staghorns sent to France, 118 
Stamenti, their establishment, 34 
Stamento, or Parliament, 130 
Sulcis, ancient site of, 317 
Sulcis, a modern district, 319 
Superstitions, numerous, 196 
Tavolara, the ancient Hermaea, 235 
Taxes, their amount, 132 
Tempio, description of, 250 
Terranova, gulf of, 234-237 
Teulada, Cape, 321 
Tharros, ruins of, 295 
Threshing by the tread of horses, 95 
Thermometrical mean, 79 
Tibula of Ptolemy, now Castel Sardo, 
260 

Tirsi river, 297 

Tobacco, a ioyal monopoly, 114 

Tonnara, expenses attending one, 123 

Toro island, 315 

Torquatus sent to Sardinia, 1 1 

Torres feudatory to Pisa, 23 



INDEX. 



351 



Tortoli, its gulf, 229 
Torture lately abolished, 136 
Totila reduces Sardinia, 20 
Towers all round the coast, 159 
Tragonaja cavern, 276 
Travelled beggar, 209 
Travelling, usual mode of, 176 
Tres Nuraghes, 289 
Tribunals, their nature and number, 
138 

Tridentine seminaries, 141 
Tunnies, their various names, 123 
Turublum minus, its reported site, 262 
Ugolino rejects Ubaldus, 29 
Valverde, madonna of, 284 
Vandalic invasion, 16 
Vassals, their partial dependance, 131 
Vegetables, their abundance, 104 
Viceroy, nature of his government, 129 



Victor Amadeus offers the island for sale, 
53 

Victor Emmanuel seeks refuge in Sar- 
dinia, 63 

Villa Cidro, 299 

Vines, their cultivation, 110 

Vittorio tower, 308 

Volcanic districts, 69 

Weddings described, 193 

Wheat, various kinds, and quantity of, 
108 

Winds prevalent in Sardinia, 80 
Wines, their names and qualities, 110 
Winnowing by means of the wind, 96 
Wool dressing at Tempio described, 254 
Xalinas valley, 226 
Zabardus reduces the Barbaricini, 20 
Zazon, his head sent to Sardinia, 20 
Zostera marina, 325 



FINIS. 



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